#seedsaving — Public Fediverse posts
Live and recent posts from across the Fediverse tagged #seedsaving, aggregated by home.social.
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Ooooh. I LOVE that idea, @clew ! I used to use rubber stamps when I had a Soap business! @MaQuest
I came across this one on Etsy...
https://www.etsy.com/listing/4312605625/seed-packet-stamp-seed-saving-rubber?gpla=1&gao=1&&utm_custom1=_k_839759211eb71c301ad73387d16ddc37_k_&utm_custom2=319339186&msclkid=839759211eb71c301ad73387d16ddc37 -
A Guide To #SeedSaving, #SeedStewardship & #SeedSovereignty
By The Seed Ambassadors Project
4th edition, January 2010
Copy and Distribute Freely
"If SEED SAVING is collecting seeds for replanting in the future…
Then SEED STEWARDSHIP is the process of saving seeds with the purpose of maintaining or improving that seed’s health and resilience. It also includes the act of saving and selecting a variety over a period of many seasons, with the end goal of passing it on to others in the future.
The ideal of SEED SOVEREIGNTY firmly plants seed saving and seed stewardship in the realm of fundamental #HumanRights. It is the freedom to save seed and determine the foundation on which our food system rests. With the current attacks of industry
hitting at the heart of #FoodSovereignty, the simple act of seed saving becomes a major act of #resistance and social empowerment."Access via @internetarchive
https://archive.org/details/A_Guide_To_Seed_Saving_Seed_Stewardship_Seed_Sovereignty/mode/2up
#SolarPunkSunday #ResistanceIsFertile #FoodSecurity #GrowYourOwn #Biodiversity #SharingKnowledge #SeedExchange
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A Guide To #SeedSaving, #SeedStewardship & #SeedSovereignty
By The Seed Ambassadors Project
4th edition, January 2010
Copy and Distribute Freely
"If SEED SAVING is collecting seeds for replanting in the future…
Then SEED STEWARDSHIP is the process of saving seeds with the purpose of maintaining or improving that seed’s health and resilience. It also includes the act of saving and selecting a variety over a period of many seasons, with the end goal of passing it on to others in the future.
The ideal of SEED SOVEREIGNTY firmly plants seed saving and seed stewardship in the realm of fundamental #HumanRights. It is the freedom to save seed and determine the foundation on which our food system rests. With the current attacks of industry
hitting at the heart of #FoodSovereignty, the simple act of seed saving becomes a major act of #resistance and social empowerment."Access via @internetarchive
https://archive.org/details/A_Guide_To_Seed_Saving_Seed_Stewardship_Seed_Sovereignty/mode/2up
#SolarPunkSunday #ResistanceIsFertile #FoodSecurity #GrowYourOwn #Biodiversity #SharingKnowledge #SeedExchange
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A Guide To #SeedSaving, #SeedStewardship & #SeedSovereignty
By The Seed Ambassadors Project
4th edition, January 2010
Copy and Distribute Freely
"If SEED SAVING is collecting seeds for replanting in the future…
Then SEED STEWARDSHIP is the process of saving seeds with the purpose of maintaining or improving that seed’s health and resilience. It also includes the act of saving and selecting a variety over a period of many seasons, with the end goal of passing it on to others in the future.
The ideal of SEED SOVEREIGNTY firmly plants seed saving and seed stewardship in the realm of fundamental #HumanRights. It is the freedom to save seed and determine the foundation on which our food system rests. With the current attacks of industry
hitting at the heart of #FoodSovereignty, the simple act of seed saving becomes a major act of #resistance and social empowerment."Access via @internetarchive
https://archive.org/details/A_Guide_To_Seed_Saving_Seed_Stewardship_Seed_Sovereignty/mode/2up
#SolarPunkSunday #ResistanceIsFertile #FoodSecurity #GrowYourOwn #Biodiversity #SharingKnowledge #SeedExchange
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A Guide To #SeedSaving, #SeedStewardship & #SeedSovereignty
By The Seed Ambassadors Project
4th edition, January 2010
Copy and Distribute Freely
"If SEED SAVING is collecting seeds for replanting in the future…
Then SEED STEWARDSHIP is the process of saving seeds with the purpose of maintaining or improving that seed’s health and resilience. It also includes the act of saving and selecting a variety over a period of many seasons, with the end goal of passing it on to others in the future.
The ideal of SEED SOVEREIGNTY firmly plants seed saving and seed stewardship in the realm of fundamental #HumanRights. It is the freedom to save seed and determine the foundation on which our food system rests. With the current attacks of industry
hitting at the heart of #FoodSovereignty, the simple act of seed saving becomes a major act of #resistance and social empowerment."Access via @internetarchive
https://archive.org/details/A_Guide_To_Seed_Saving_Seed_Stewardship_Seed_Sovereignty/mode/2up
#SolarPunkSunday #ResistanceIsFertile #FoodSecurity #GrowYourOwn #Biodiversity #SharingKnowledge #SeedExchange
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A Guide To #SeedSaving, #SeedStewardship & #SeedSovereignty
By The Seed Ambassadors Project
4th edition, January 2010
Copy and Distribute Freely
"If SEED SAVING is collecting seeds for replanting in the future…
Then SEED STEWARDSHIP is the process of saving seeds with the purpose of maintaining or improving that seed’s health and resilience. It also includes the act of saving and selecting a variety over a period of many seasons, with the end goal of passing it on to others in the future.
The ideal of SEED SOVEREIGNTY firmly plants seed saving and seed stewardship in the realm of fundamental #HumanRights. It is the freedom to save seed and determine the foundation on which our food system rests. With the current attacks of industry
hitting at the heart of #FoodSovereignty, the simple act of seed saving becomes a major act of #resistance and social empowerment."Access via @internetarchive
https://archive.org/details/A_Guide_To_Seed_Saving_Seed_Stewardship_Seed_Sovereignty/mode/2up
#SolarPunkSunday #ResistanceIsFertile #FoodSecurity #GrowYourOwn #Biodiversity #SharingKnowledge #SeedExchange
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How to Save Vegetable Seeds
Written By: Catherine Boeckmann Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener
July 23, 2025Excerpt: "When Is a Seed Ripe?
From a plant’s point of view, ripeness is when the seeds are viable, which does not always coincide with when the plant is most edible and ready for harvest.
- Peas and beans are ready when the pods turn brown on the vine and shrink against the seeds.
- Pepper seeds are ripe when peppers are at their full color—depending on variety, this could be black, orange, purple, red, or yellow—and start to shrivel.
- Tomato seeds are ripe when fruit are firm but tender. If you press them, they have some give, unlike the hard feel of green ones. Like peppers, they will also have reached their full color.
- Cucumber seeds are ripe when the cuke turns fully yellow—overripe for eating. Harvest it and put it in a safe place for another 20 days.
- Winter squash seeds are ripe when the skin turns hard.
-Summer squash seeds are ripe when the squash is past the edible point, with a hard rind. Then treat the same as winter squashes.
- Watermelon seeds are ripe when the tendril directly opposite the stem turns from green to brown and becomes dry.
- Cantaloupe and muskmelon seeds are ripe when the stem turns brown and dries, and the melon readily separates from it.When Is a Seed Dry?
Proper drying is a key to saving seeds. Here’s how to test if seeds are fully dried:
- Squeeze one seed with pliers or hit it with a hammer.
- If it’s dry, it will shatter.
- If it crushes or feels soft or spongy, then your seed needs more air-drying before being stored away."Learn more:
https://www.almanac.com/how-save-vegetable-seeds#SolarPunkSunday #SeedSaving #HomeGardens #HierloomSeeds #GrowYourOwn
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How to Save Vegetable Seeds
Written By: Catherine Boeckmann Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener
July 23, 2025Excerpt: "When Is a Seed Ripe?
From a plant’s point of view, ripeness is when the seeds are viable, which does not always coincide with when the plant is most edible and ready for harvest.
- Peas and beans are ready when the pods turn brown on the vine and shrink against the seeds.
- Pepper seeds are ripe when peppers are at their full color—depending on variety, this could be black, orange, purple, red, or yellow—and start to shrivel.
- Tomato seeds are ripe when fruit are firm but tender. If you press them, they have some give, unlike the hard feel of green ones. Like peppers, they will also have reached their full color.
- Cucumber seeds are ripe when the cuke turns fully yellow—overripe for eating. Harvest it and put it in a safe place for another 20 days.
- Winter squash seeds are ripe when the skin turns hard.
-Summer squash seeds are ripe when the squash is past the edible point, with a hard rind. Then treat the same as winter squashes.
- Watermelon seeds are ripe when the tendril directly opposite the stem turns from green to brown and becomes dry.
- Cantaloupe and muskmelon seeds are ripe when the stem turns brown and dries, and the melon readily separates from it.When Is a Seed Dry?
Proper drying is a key to saving seeds. Here’s how to test if seeds are fully dried:
- Squeeze one seed with pliers or hit it with a hammer.
- If it’s dry, it will shatter.
- If it crushes or feels soft or spongy, then your seed needs more air-drying before being stored away."Learn more:
https://www.almanac.com/how-save-vegetable-seeds#SolarPunkSunday #SeedSaving #HomeGardens #HierloomSeeds #GrowYourOwn
-
How to Save Vegetable Seeds
Written By: Catherine Boeckmann Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener
July 23, 2025Excerpt: "When Is a Seed Ripe?
From a plant’s point of view, ripeness is when the seeds are viable, which does not always coincide with when the plant is most edible and ready for harvest.
- Peas and beans are ready when the pods turn brown on the vine and shrink against the seeds.
- Pepper seeds are ripe when peppers are at their full color—depending on variety, this could be black, orange, purple, red, or yellow—and start to shrivel.
- Tomato seeds are ripe when fruit are firm but tender. If you press them, they have some give, unlike the hard feel of green ones. Like peppers, they will also have reached their full color.
- Cucumber seeds are ripe when the cuke turns fully yellow—overripe for eating. Harvest it and put it in a safe place for another 20 days.
- Winter squash seeds are ripe when the skin turns hard.
-Summer squash seeds are ripe when the squash is past the edible point, with a hard rind. Then treat the same as winter squashes.
- Watermelon seeds are ripe when the tendril directly opposite the stem turns from green to brown and becomes dry.
- Cantaloupe and muskmelon seeds are ripe when the stem turns brown and dries, and the melon readily separates from it.When Is a Seed Dry?
Proper drying is a key to saving seeds. Here’s how to test if seeds are fully dried:
- Squeeze one seed with pliers or hit it with a hammer.
- If it’s dry, it will shatter.
- If it crushes or feels soft or spongy, then your seed needs more air-drying before being stored away."Learn more:
https://www.almanac.com/how-save-vegetable-seeds#SolarPunkSunday #SeedSaving #HomeGardens #HierloomSeeds #GrowYourOwn
-
How to Save Vegetable Seeds
Written By: Catherine Boeckmann Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener
July 23, 2025Excerpt: "When Is a Seed Ripe?
From a plant’s point of view, ripeness is when the seeds are viable, which does not always coincide with when the plant is most edible and ready for harvest.
- Peas and beans are ready when the pods turn brown on the vine and shrink against the seeds.
- Pepper seeds are ripe when peppers are at their full color—depending on variety, this could be black, orange, purple, red, or yellow—and start to shrivel.
- Tomato seeds are ripe when fruit are firm but tender. If you press them, they have some give, unlike the hard feel of green ones. Like peppers, they will also have reached their full color.
- Cucumber seeds are ripe when the cuke turns fully yellow—overripe for eating. Harvest it and put it in a safe place for another 20 days.
- Winter squash seeds are ripe when the skin turns hard.
-Summer squash seeds are ripe when the squash is past the edible point, with a hard rind. Then treat the same as winter squashes.
- Watermelon seeds are ripe when the tendril directly opposite the stem turns from green to brown and becomes dry.
- Cantaloupe and muskmelon seeds are ripe when the stem turns brown and dries, and the melon readily separates from it.When Is a Seed Dry?
Proper drying is a key to saving seeds. Here’s how to test if seeds are fully dried:
- Squeeze one seed with pliers or hit it with a hammer.
- If it’s dry, it will shatter.
- If it crushes or feels soft or spongy, then your seed needs more air-drying before being stored away."Learn more:
https://www.almanac.com/how-save-vegetable-seeds#SolarPunkSunday #SeedSaving #HomeGardens #HierloomSeeds #GrowYourOwn
-
How to Save Vegetable Seeds
Written By: Catherine Boeckmann Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener
July 23, 2025Excerpt: "When Is a Seed Ripe?
From a plant’s point of view, ripeness is when the seeds are viable, which does not always coincide with when the plant is most edible and ready for harvest.
- Peas and beans are ready when the pods turn brown on the vine and shrink against the seeds.
- Pepper seeds are ripe when peppers are at their full color—depending on variety, this could be black, orange, purple, red, or yellow—and start to shrivel.
- Tomato seeds are ripe when fruit are firm but tender. If you press them, they have some give, unlike the hard feel of green ones. Like peppers, they will also have reached their full color.
- Cucumber seeds are ripe when the cuke turns fully yellow—overripe for eating. Harvest it and put it in a safe place for another 20 days.
- Winter squash seeds are ripe when the skin turns hard.
-Summer squash seeds are ripe when the squash is past the edible point, with a hard rind. Then treat the same as winter squashes.
- Watermelon seeds are ripe when the tendril directly opposite the stem turns from green to brown and becomes dry.
- Cantaloupe and muskmelon seeds are ripe when the stem turns brown and dries, and the melon readily separates from it.When Is a Seed Dry?
Proper drying is a key to saving seeds. Here’s how to test if seeds are fully dried:
- Squeeze one seed with pliers or hit it with a hammer.
- If it’s dry, it will shatter.
- If it crushes or feels soft or spongy, then your seed needs more air-drying before being stored away."Learn more:
https://www.almanac.com/how-save-vegetable-seeds#SolarPunkSunday #SeedSaving #HomeGardens #HierloomSeeds #GrowYourOwn
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#SeedSavingExchange - Seed Saving
Whether you’re new to seed saving or want to brush up on the time-honored practice, these seed-saving basics are a smart place to start
Excerpt: "Seed maturity notes for several common crop types
Beans & Peas: Pods should be brown, dry and brittle before harvest, and the seeds inside should be hard as rocks. If it is a particularly wet fall or you’re expecting an early frost, you may pull up entire plants and move them to a garage or basement to finish maturing and drying.
Corn: Husks should be brown, dry and brittle, the silks should be dark and dry, and the kernels should be extremely hard.
Cucumbers: Fruits must be left on the vine until they begin to turn yellow and their skin becomes tough. Seeds inside should be plump and firm.
Eggplant: Fruits should be left on the plant until they begin to turn yellow and their skin becomes tough. Seeds inside should be plump and hard (or crunchy if you’re chewing on them).
Lettuce: Two to three weeks after the lettuce flowers have opened, the seeds should be mature. Look for feathery parachute-like structures (think dandelions) before harvesting.
Melons and Watermelons: Harvest fruits as you would for eating and simply reserve some of the seeds or leave the fruits on the vine until they soften slightly (this may improve seed quality, but you won’t want to eat the melons at this point). Seeds inside should be plump and firm.
Okra: Pods should be brown and dry, and they will begin to split open when seeds are ready for harvest. The seeds should be very hard.
Peppers: Seeds are ready when the pepper fruit has matured to its final color.
Radishes: Pods should be brown, dry and brittle before harvest, and the seeds inside should be extremely hard.
Squash: Fruits should be left to mature on the vine until the skin has become extremely hard. Harvest fruits before first frost and store up to two months in cool conditions (50-60 degrees) to allow the seeds to mature further. Seeds should be plump and firm.
Tomatoes: Seeds are ready when the tomato is ready to be eaten.
Remember to allow seeds to dry completely before storage. Any moisture in or around the seeds can cause mold and problems with germination."
Learn more:
https://seedsavers.org/learn/seed-saving/#know-your-plants#SolarPunkSunday #SeedSaving #HomeGardens #HierloomSeeds #GrowYourOwn
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#SeedSavingExchange - Seed Saving
Whether you’re new to seed saving or want to brush up on the time-honored practice, these seed-saving basics are a smart place to start
Excerpt: "Seed maturity notes for several common crop types
Beans & Peas: Pods should be brown, dry and brittle before harvest, and the seeds inside should be hard as rocks. If it is a particularly wet fall or you’re expecting an early frost, you may pull up entire plants and move them to a garage or basement to finish maturing and drying.
Corn: Husks should be brown, dry and brittle, the silks should be dark and dry, and the kernels should be extremely hard.
Cucumbers: Fruits must be left on the vine until they begin to turn yellow and their skin becomes tough. Seeds inside should be plump and firm.
Eggplant: Fruits should be left on the plant until they begin to turn yellow and their skin becomes tough. Seeds inside should be plump and hard (or crunchy if you’re chewing on them).
Lettuce: Two to three weeks after the lettuce flowers have opened, the seeds should be mature. Look for feathery parachute-like structures (think dandelions) before harvesting.
Melons and Watermelons: Harvest fruits as you would for eating and simply reserve some of the seeds or leave the fruits on the vine until they soften slightly (this may improve seed quality, but you won’t want to eat the melons at this point). Seeds inside should be plump and firm.
Okra: Pods should be brown and dry, and they will begin to split open when seeds are ready for harvest. The seeds should be very hard.
Peppers: Seeds are ready when the pepper fruit has matured to its final color.
Radishes: Pods should be brown, dry and brittle before harvest, and the seeds inside should be extremely hard.
Squash: Fruits should be left to mature on the vine until the skin has become extremely hard. Harvest fruits before first frost and store up to two months in cool conditions (50-60 degrees) to allow the seeds to mature further. Seeds should be plump and firm.
Tomatoes: Seeds are ready when the tomato is ready to be eaten.
Remember to allow seeds to dry completely before storage. Any moisture in or around the seeds can cause mold and problems with germination."
Learn more:
https://seedsavers.org/learn/seed-saving/#know-your-plants#SolarPunkSunday #SeedSaving #HomeGardens #HierloomSeeds #GrowYourOwn
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#SeedSavingExchange - Seed Saving
Whether you’re new to seed saving or want to brush up on the time-honored practice, these seed-saving basics are a smart place to start
Excerpt: "Seed maturity notes for several common crop types
Beans & Peas: Pods should be brown, dry and brittle before harvest, and the seeds inside should be hard as rocks. If it is a particularly wet fall or you’re expecting an early frost, you may pull up entire plants and move them to a garage or basement to finish maturing and drying.
Corn: Husks should be brown, dry and brittle, the silks should be dark and dry, and the kernels should be extremely hard.
Cucumbers: Fruits must be left on the vine until they begin to turn yellow and their skin becomes tough. Seeds inside should be plump and firm.
Eggplant: Fruits should be left on the plant until they begin to turn yellow and their skin becomes tough. Seeds inside should be plump and hard (or crunchy if you’re chewing on them).
Lettuce: Two to three weeks after the lettuce flowers have opened, the seeds should be mature. Look for feathery parachute-like structures (think dandelions) before harvesting.
Melons and Watermelons: Harvest fruits as you would for eating and simply reserve some of the seeds or leave the fruits on the vine until they soften slightly (this may improve seed quality, but you won’t want to eat the melons at this point). Seeds inside should be plump and firm.
Okra: Pods should be brown and dry, and they will begin to split open when seeds are ready for harvest. The seeds should be very hard.
Peppers: Seeds are ready when the pepper fruit has matured to its final color.
Radishes: Pods should be brown, dry and brittle before harvest, and the seeds inside should be extremely hard.
Squash: Fruits should be left to mature on the vine until the skin has become extremely hard. Harvest fruits before first frost and store up to two months in cool conditions (50-60 degrees) to allow the seeds to mature further. Seeds should be plump and firm.
Tomatoes: Seeds are ready when the tomato is ready to be eaten.
Remember to allow seeds to dry completely before storage. Any moisture in or around the seeds can cause mold and problems with germination."
Learn more:
https://seedsavers.org/learn/seed-saving/#know-your-plants#SolarPunkSunday #SeedSaving #HomeGardens #HierloomSeeds #GrowYourOwn
-
#SeedSavingExchange - Seed Saving
Whether you’re new to seed saving or want to brush up on the time-honored practice, these seed-saving basics are a smart place to start
Excerpt: "Seed maturity notes for several common crop types
Beans & Peas: Pods should be brown, dry and brittle before harvest, and the seeds inside should be hard as rocks. If it is a particularly wet fall or you’re expecting an early frost, you may pull up entire plants and move them to a garage or basement to finish maturing and drying.
Corn: Husks should be brown, dry and brittle, the silks should be dark and dry, and the kernels should be extremely hard.
Cucumbers: Fruits must be left on the vine until they begin to turn yellow and their skin becomes tough. Seeds inside should be plump and firm.
Eggplant: Fruits should be left on the plant until they begin to turn yellow and their skin becomes tough. Seeds inside should be plump and hard (or crunchy if you’re chewing on them).
Lettuce: Two to three weeks after the lettuce flowers have opened, the seeds should be mature. Look for feathery parachute-like structures (think dandelions) before harvesting.
Melons and Watermelons: Harvest fruits as you would for eating and simply reserve some of the seeds or leave the fruits on the vine until they soften slightly (this may improve seed quality, but you won’t want to eat the melons at this point). Seeds inside should be plump and firm.
Okra: Pods should be brown and dry, and they will begin to split open when seeds are ready for harvest. The seeds should be very hard.
Peppers: Seeds are ready when the pepper fruit has matured to its final color.
Radishes: Pods should be brown, dry and brittle before harvest, and the seeds inside should be extremely hard.
Squash: Fruits should be left to mature on the vine until the skin has become extremely hard. Harvest fruits before first frost and store up to two months in cool conditions (50-60 degrees) to allow the seeds to mature further. Seeds should be plump and firm.
Tomatoes: Seeds are ready when the tomato is ready to be eaten.
Remember to allow seeds to dry completely before storage. Any moisture in or around the seeds can cause mold and problems with germination."
Learn more:
https://seedsavers.org/learn/seed-saving/#know-your-plants#SolarPunkSunday #SeedSaving #HomeGardens #HierloomSeeds #GrowYourOwn
-
#SeedSavingExchange - Seed Saving
Whether you’re new to seed saving or want to brush up on the time-honored practice, these seed-saving basics are a smart place to start
Excerpt: "Seed maturity notes for several common crop types
Beans & Peas: Pods should be brown, dry and brittle before harvest, and the seeds inside should be hard as rocks. If it is a particularly wet fall or you’re expecting an early frost, you may pull up entire plants and move them to a garage or basement to finish maturing and drying.
Corn: Husks should be brown, dry and brittle, the silks should be dark and dry, and the kernels should be extremely hard.
Cucumbers: Fruits must be left on the vine until they begin to turn yellow and their skin becomes tough. Seeds inside should be plump and firm.
Eggplant: Fruits should be left on the plant until they begin to turn yellow and their skin becomes tough. Seeds inside should be plump and hard (or crunchy if you’re chewing on them).
Lettuce: Two to three weeks after the lettuce flowers have opened, the seeds should be mature. Look for feathery parachute-like structures (think dandelions) before harvesting.
Melons and Watermelons: Harvest fruits as you would for eating and simply reserve some of the seeds or leave the fruits on the vine until they soften slightly (this may improve seed quality, but you won’t want to eat the melons at this point). Seeds inside should be plump and firm.
Okra: Pods should be brown and dry, and they will begin to split open when seeds are ready for harvest. The seeds should be very hard.
Peppers: Seeds are ready when the pepper fruit has matured to its final color.
Radishes: Pods should be brown, dry and brittle before harvest, and the seeds inside should be extremely hard.
Squash: Fruits should be left to mature on the vine until the skin has become extremely hard. Harvest fruits before first frost and store up to two months in cool conditions (50-60 degrees) to allow the seeds to mature further. Seeds should be plump and firm.
Tomatoes: Seeds are ready when the tomato is ready to be eaten.
Remember to allow seeds to dry completely before storage. Any moisture in or around the seeds can cause mold and problems with germination."
Learn more:
https://seedsavers.org/learn/seed-saving/#know-your-plants#SolarPunkSunday #SeedSaving #HomeGardens #HierloomSeeds #GrowYourOwn
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#UMaineExtension - Bulletin #2750, An Introduction to Seed Saving for the #HomeGardener
By Mark Hutton, Extension Vegetable Specialist, University of Maine Cooperative Extension
"Seed saving is an ancient art that enabled humans to cease being hunter-gatherers. Up until the end of World War II, home gardeners typically saved their own seeds, because high-quality seeds at affordable prices were generally not available. However, seed saving declined with the development of the commercial seed industry, which made low-cost, high-quality vegetable and flower seeds readily available. Presently, renewed interest in heirloom, unique, and locally adapted vegetable and flower varieties is sparking a resurgence in seed saving.
Seed-saving is a natural next step for passionate gardeners. Saving seeds not only allows home gardeners to save money; it provides them with an opportunity to express their creativity! This is because saving seed is a form of selection—the very basis of plant breeding. When choosing which plants to save seed from, a gardener must decide which plants have the most desirable characteristics in terms of meeting their goals for plant size, yield, fruit quality, maturity date, attractiveness, etc., thus helping to improve the offspring. When you save seed from your garden, you can create a cultivar uniquely suited to your location, your aesthetic sensibilities, and culinary tastes. Saving seeds takes time, planning, and attention to detail. Here are some basics to get you started on your seed saving adventure."
Learn more:
https://extension.umaine.edu/publications/2750e/#SolarPunkSunday #SeedSaving #HomeGardens #HierloomSeeds #GrowYourOwn
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#UMaineExtension - Bulletin #2750, An Introduction to Seed Saving for the #HomeGardener
By Mark Hutton, Extension Vegetable Specialist, University of Maine Cooperative Extension
"Seed saving is an ancient art that enabled humans to cease being hunter-gatherers. Up until the end of World War II, home gardeners typically saved their own seeds, because high-quality seeds at affordable prices were generally not available. However, seed saving declined with the development of the commercial seed industry, which made low-cost, high-quality vegetable and flower seeds readily available. Presently, renewed interest in heirloom, unique, and locally adapted vegetable and flower varieties is sparking a resurgence in seed saving.
Seed-saving is a natural next step for passionate gardeners. Saving seeds not only allows home gardeners to save money; it provides them with an opportunity to express their creativity! This is because saving seed is a form of selection—the very basis of plant breeding. When choosing which plants to save seed from, a gardener must decide which plants have the most desirable characteristics in terms of meeting their goals for plant size, yield, fruit quality, maturity date, attractiveness, etc., thus helping to improve the offspring. When you save seed from your garden, you can create a cultivar uniquely suited to your location, your aesthetic sensibilities, and culinary tastes. Saving seeds takes time, planning, and attention to detail. Here are some basics to get you started on your seed saving adventure."
Learn more:
https://extension.umaine.edu/publications/2750e/#SolarPunkSunday #SeedSaving #HomeGardens #HierloomSeeds #GrowYourOwn
-
#UMaineExtension - Bulletin #2750, An Introduction to Seed Saving for the #HomeGardener
By Mark Hutton, Extension Vegetable Specialist, University of Maine Cooperative Extension
"Seed saving is an ancient art that enabled humans to cease being hunter-gatherers. Up until the end of World War II, home gardeners typically saved their own seeds, because high-quality seeds at affordable prices were generally not available. However, seed saving declined with the development of the commercial seed industry, which made low-cost, high-quality vegetable and flower seeds readily available. Presently, renewed interest in heirloom, unique, and locally adapted vegetable and flower varieties is sparking a resurgence in seed saving.
Seed-saving is a natural next step for passionate gardeners. Saving seeds not only allows home gardeners to save money; it provides them with an opportunity to express their creativity! This is because saving seed is a form of selection—the very basis of plant breeding. When choosing which plants to save seed from, a gardener must decide which plants have the most desirable characteristics in terms of meeting their goals for plant size, yield, fruit quality, maturity date, attractiveness, etc., thus helping to improve the offspring. When you save seed from your garden, you can create a cultivar uniquely suited to your location, your aesthetic sensibilities, and culinary tastes. Saving seeds takes time, planning, and attention to detail. Here are some basics to get you started on your seed saving adventure."
Learn more:
https://extension.umaine.edu/publications/2750e/#SolarPunkSunday #SeedSaving #HomeGardens #HierloomSeeds #GrowYourOwn
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#UMaineExtension - Bulletin #2750, An Introduction to Seed Saving for the #HomeGardener
By Mark Hutton, Extension Vegetable Specialist, University of Maine Cooperative Extension
"Seed saving is an ancient art that enabled humans to cease being hunter-gatherers. Up until the end of World War II, home gardeners typically saved their own seeds, because high-quality seeds at affordable prices were generally not available. However, seed saving declined with the development of the commercial seed industry, which made low-cost, high-quality vegetable and flower seeds readily available. Presently, renewed interest in heirloom, unique, and locally adapted vegetable and flower varieties is sparking a resurgence in seed saving.
Seed-saving is a natural next step for passionate gardeners. Saving seeds not only allows home gardeners to save money; it provides them with an opportunity to express their creativity! This is because saving seed is a form of selection—the very basis of plant breeding. When choosing which plants to save seed from, a gardener must decide which plants have the most desirable characteristics in terms of meeting their goals for plant size, yield, fruit quality, maturity date, attractiveness, etc., thus helping to improve the offspring. When you save seed from your garden, you can create a cultivar uniquely suited to your location, your aesthetic sensibilities, and culinary tastes. Saving seeds takes time, planning, and attention to detail. Here are some basics to get you started on your seed saving adventure."
Learn more:
https://extension.umaine.edu/publications/2750e/#SolarPunkSunday #SeedSaving #HomeGardens #HierloomSeeds #GrowYourOwn
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#UMaineExtension - Bulletin #2750, An Introduction to Seed Saving for the #HomeGardener
By Mark Hutton, Extension Vegetable Specialist, University of Maine Cooperative Extension
"Seed saving is an ancient art that enabled humans to cease being hunter-gatherers. Up until the end of World War II, home gardeners typically saved their own seeds, because high-quality seeds at affordable prices were generally not available. However, seed saving declined with the development of the commercial seed industry, which made low-cost, high-quality vegetable and flower seeds readily available. Presently, renewed interest in heirloom, unique, and locally adapted vegetable and flower varieties is sparking a resurgence in seed saving.
Seed-saving is a natural next step for passionate gardeners. Saving seeds not only allows home gardeners to save money; it provides them with an opportunity to express their creativity! This is because saving seed is a form of selection—the very basis of plant breeding. When choosing which plants to save seed from, a gardener must decide which plants have the most desirable characteristics in terms of meeting their goals for plant size, yield, fruit quality, maturity date, attractiveness, etc., thus helping to improve the offspring. When you save seed from your garden, you can create a cultivar uniquely suited to your location, your aesthetic sensibilities, and culinary tastes. Saving seeds takes time, planning, and attention to detail. Here are some basics to get you started on your seed saving adventure."
Learn more:
https://extension.umaine.edu/publications/2750e/#SolarPunkSunday #SeedSaving #HomeGardens #HierloomSeeds #GrowYourOwn
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Six Ways to Screen and #Winnow #Seeds
Simple Tools for #Threshing Seeds
by BC Farms & Food, October 2, 2025"Gardeners who save seed, or grow and harvest grains, know that separating seeds from their pods or husks can be a time-consuming job. While large industrial growers use machines to thresh and winnow seed crops, home seed savers can look to a number of simpler tools to accomplish the task. Once cleaned, seeds stored in moisture-proof containers can last for several years.
Here are six devices for separating seeds from debris and chaff:
#LowTech Ways for Separating Seeds
• #Pillowcase or #ClothSack – Perhaps the most common method of #HandThreshing, place seed pods in the sack and thrash (“thresh”) it against a hard surface to break the seeds from their coverings.
• Boards – Place harvested seed pods between two boards and apply gentle pressure to crack open the pods. Take care not to press so hard you split the seeds.
• #Screens or #Strainers – Screens with meshes of varying sizes provide a quick way to separate debris from seeds. Even using a single screen is a vast improvement over hand picking. Screens work especially well for seeds (such as lettuce) that do not have pods. A set of graduated screens will cut out about 80 percent of the hand work. You can build screens yourself or buy them pre-built.
• Wind Power – Outside on a breezy day, drop seed from one container into another and let the wind blow away the unwanted chaff.
• #ElectricFan – While wind can be fickle and blow your chaff in unexpected directions, a fan set on low will produce a steady stream of air for winnowing.
• Gravity – This works well for round seeds. Use gravity to help roll seeds down a newspaper into a container. The heavier seeds roll down, while the chaff remains behind." (Heh. We used that method when cleaning seeds out of cheap homegrown weed).
Learn more:
https://bcfarmsandfood.com/six-ways-to-screen-and-winnow-seeds/#SolarPunkSunday #SeedSaving #GrowYourOwn #HierloomSeeds #SeedCollection #ScreeningSeeds #WinnowingSeeds #SeedCleaning
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Six Ways to Screen and #Winnow #Seeds
Simple Tools for #Threshing Seeds
by BC Farms & Food, October 2, 2025"Gardeners who save seed, or grow and harvest grains, know that separating seeds from their pods or husks can be a time-consuming job. While large industrial growers use machines to thresh and winnow seed crops, home seed savers can look to a number of simpler tools to accomplish the task. Once cleaned, seeds stored in moisture-proof containers can last for several years.
Here are six devices for separating seeds from debris and chaff:
#LowTech Ways for Separating Seeds
• #Pillowcase or #ClothSack – Perhaps the most common method of #HandThreshing, place seed pods in the sack and thrash (“thresh”) it against a hard surface to break the seeds from their coverings.
• Boards – Place harvested seed pods between two boards and apply gentle pressure to crack open the pods. Take care not to press so hard you split the seeds.
• #Screens or #Strainers – Screens with meshes of varying sizes provide a quick way to separate debris from seeds. Even using a single screen is a vast improvement over hand picking. Screens work especially well for seeds (such as lettuce) that do not have pods. A set of graduated screens will cut out about 80 percent of the hand work. You can build screens yourself or buy them pre-built.
• Wind Power – Outside on a breezy day, drop seed from one container into another and let the wind blow away the unwanted chaff.
• #ElectricFan – While wind can be fickle and blow your chaff in unexpected directions, a fan set on low will produce a steady stream of air for winnowing.
• Gravity – This works well for round seeds. Use gravity to help roll seeds down a newspaper into a container. The heavier seeds roll down, while the chaff remains behind." (Heh. We used that method when cleaning seeds out of cheap homegrown weed).
Learn more:
https://bcfarmsandfood.com/six-ways-to-screen-and-winnow-seeds/#SolarPunkSunday #SeedSaving #GrowYourOwn #HierloomSeeds #SeedCollection #ScreeningSeeds #WinnowingSeeds #SeedCleaning
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Six Ways to Screen and #Winnow #Seeds
Simple Tools for #Threshing Seeds
by BC Farms & Food, October 2, 2025"Gardeners who save seed, or grow and harvest grains, know that separating seeds from their pods or husks can be a time-consuming job. While large industrial growers use machines to thresh and winnow seed crops, home seed savers can look to a number of simpler tools to accomplish the task. Once cleaned, seeds stored in moisture-proof containers can last for several years.
Here are six devices for separating seeds from debris and chaff:
#LowTech Ways for Separating Seeds
• #Pillowcase or #ClothSack – Perhaps the most common method of #HandThreshing, place seed pods in the sack and thrash (“thresh”) it against a hard surface to break the seeds from their coverings.
• Boards – Place harvested seed pods between two boards and apply gentle pressure to crack open the pods. Take care not to press so hard you split the seeds.
• #Screens or #Strainers – Screens with meshes of varying sizes provide a quick way to separate debris from seeds. Even using a single screen is a vast improvement over hand picking. Screens work especially well for seeds (such as lettuce) that do not have pods. A set of graduated screens will cut out about 80 percent of the hand work. You can build screens yourself or buy them pre-built.
• Wind Power – Outside on a breezy day, drop seed from one container into another and let the wind blow away the unwanted chaff.
• #ElectricFan – While wind can be fickle and blow your chaff in unexpected directions, a fan set on low will produce a steady stream of air for winnowing.
• Gravity – This works well for round seeds. Use gravity to help roll seeds down a newspaper into a container. The heavier seeds roll down, while the chaff remains behind." (Heh. We used that method when cleaning seeds out of cheap homegrown weed).
Learn more:
https://bcfarmsandfood.com/six-ways-to-screen-and-winnow-seeds/#SolarPunkSunday #SeedSaving #GrowYourOwn #HierloomSeeds #SeedCollection #ScreeningSeeds #WinnowingSeeds #SeedCleaning
-
Six Ways to Screen and #Winnow #Seeds
Simple Tools for #Threshing Seeds
by BC Farms & Food, October 2, 2025"Gardeners who save seed, or grow and harvest grains, know that separating seeds from their pods or husks can be a time-consuming job. While large industrial growers use machines to thresh and winnow seed crops, home seed savers can look to a number of simpler tools to accomplish the task. Once cleaned, seeds stored in moisture-proof containers can last for several years.
Here are six devices for separating seeds from debris and chaff:
#LowTech Ways for Separating Seeds
• #Pillowcase or #ClothSack – Perhaps the most common method of #HandThreshing, place seed pods in the sack and thrash (“thresh”) it against a hard surface to break the seeds from their coverings.
• Boards – Place harvested seed pods between two boards and apply gentle pressure to crack open the pods. Take care not to press so hard you split the seeds.
• #Screens or #Strainers – Screens with meshes of varying sizes provide a quick way to separate debris from seeds. Even using a single screen is a vast improvement over hand picking. Screens work especially well for seeds (such as lettuce) that do not have pods. A set of graduated screens will cut out about 80 percent of the hand work. You can build screens yourself or buy them pre-built.
• Wind Power – Outside on a breezy day, drop seed from one container into another and let the wind blow away the unwanted chaff.
• #ElectricFan – While wind can be fickle and blow your chaff in unexpected directions, a fan set on low will produce a steady stream of air for winnowing.
• Gravity – This works well for round seeds. Use gravity to help roll seeds down a newspaper into a container. The heavier seeds roll down, while the chaff remains behind." (Heh. We used that method when cleaning seeds out of cheap homegrown weed).
Learn more:
https://bcfarmsandfood.com/six-ways-to-screen-and-winnow-seeds/#SolarPunkSunday #SeedSaving #GrowYourOwn #HierloomSeeds #SeedCollection #ScreeningSeeds #WinnowingSeeds #SeedCleaning
-
Six Ways to Screen and #Winnow #Seeds
Simple Tools for #Threshing Seeds
by BC Farms & Food, October 2, 2025"Gardeners who save seed, or grow and harvest grains, know that separating seeds from their pods or husks can be a time-consuming job. While large industrial growers use machines to thresh and winnow seed crops, home seed savers can look to a number of simpler tools to accomplish the task. Once cleaned, seeds stored in moisture-proof containers can last for several years.
Here are six devices for separating seeds from debris and chaff:
#LowTech Ways for Separating Seeds
• #Pillowcase or #ClothSack – Perhaps the most common method of #HandThreshing, place seed pods in the sack and thrash (“thresh”) it against a hard surface to break the seeds from their coverings.
• Boards – Place harvested seed pods between two boards and apply gentle pressure to crack open the pods. Take care not to press so hard you split the seeds.
• #Screens or #Strainers – Screens with meshes of varying sizes provide a quick way to separate debris from seeds. Even using a single screen is a vast improvement over hand picking. Screens work especially well for seeds (such as lettuce) that do not have pods. A set of graduated screens will cut out about 80 percent of the hand work. You can build screens yourself or buy them pre-built.
• Wind Power – Outside on a breezy day, drop seed from one container into another and let the wind blow away the unwanted chaff.
• #ElectricFan – While wind can be fickle and blow your chaff in unexpected directions, a fan set on low will produce a steady stream of air for winnowing.
• Gravity – This works well for round seeds. Use gravity to help roll seeds down a newspaper into a container. The heavier seeds roll down, while the chaff remains behind." (Heh. We used that method when cleaning seeds out of cheap homegrown weed).
Learn more:
https://bcfarmsandfood.com/six-ways-to-screen-and-winnow-seeds/#SolarPunkSunday #SeedSaving #GrowYourOwn #HierloomSeeds #SeedCollection #ScreeningSeeds #WinnowingSeeds #SeedCleaning
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So you rinse it, seal it in a bag with barely damp sphagnum, and set it at the back of the refrigerator for ninety to a hundred and twenty days. In spring you plant it an inch down in a deep pot. Five to seven years later, fruit no corporation ever priced.
Bi socair — be still.
What are you growing that won't pay off for years?
#Foraging #Pawpaw #Gardening #SeedSaving #NativePlants #Herbalism #FoodAsMedicine #Gàidhlig #MastoDaoine #Druid #Folklore #Solarpunk #Cooking
2/2 -
So you rinse it, seal it in a bag with barely damp sphagnum, and set it at the back of the refrigerator for ninety to a hundred and twenty days. In spring you plant it an inch down in a deep pot. Five to seven years later, fruit no corporation ever priced.
Bi socair — be still.
What are you growing that won't pay off for years?
#Foraging #Pawpaw #Gardening #SeedSaving #NativePlants #Herbalism #FoodAsMedicine #Gàidhlig #MastoDaoine #Druid #Folklore #Solarpunk #Cooking
2/2 -
So you rinse it, seal it in a bag with barely damp sphagnum, and set it at the back of the refrigerator for ninety to a hundred and twenty days. In spring you plant it an inch down in a deep pot. Five to seven years later, fruit no corporation ever priced.
Bi socair — be still.
What are you growing that won't pay off for years?
#Foraging #Pawpaw #Gardening #SeedSaving #NativePlants #Herbalism #FoodAsMedicine #Gàidhlig #MastoDaoine #Druid #Folklore #Solarpunk #Cooking
2/2 -
So you rinse it, seal it in a bag with barely damp sphagnum, and set it at the back of the refrigerator for ninety to a hundred and twenty days. In spring you plant it an inch down in a deep pot. Five to seven years later, fruit no corporation ever priced.
Bi socair — be still.
What are you growing that won't pay off for years?
#Foraging #Pawpaw #Gardening #SeedSaving #NativePlants #Herbalism #FoodAsMedicine #Gàidhlig #MastoDaoine #Druid #Folklore #Solarpunk #Cooking
2/2 -
So you rinse it, seal it in a bag with barely damp sphagnum, and set it at the back of the refrigerator for ninety to a hundred and twenty days. In spring you plant it an inch down in a deep pot. Five to seven years later, fruit no corporation ever priced.
Bi socair — be still.
What are you growing that won't pay off for years?
#Foraging #Pawpaw #Gardening #SeedSaving #NativePlants #Herbalism #FoodAsMedicine #Gàidhlig #MastoDaoine #Druid #Folklore #Solarpunk #Cooking
2/2 -
So you rinse it, seal it in a bag with barely damp sphagnum, and set it at the back of the refrigerator for ninety to a hundred and twenty days. In spring you plant it an inch down in a deep pot. Five to seven years later, fruit no corporation ever priced.
Bi socair — be still.
What are you growing that won't pay off for years?
#Foraging #Pawpaw #Gardening #SeedSaving #NativePlants #Herbalism #FoodAsMedicine #Gàidhlig #MastoDaoine #Druid #Folklore #Solarpunk #Cooking
2/2 -
So you rinse it, seal it in a bag with barely damp sphagnum, and set it at the back of the refrigerator for ninety to a hundred and twenty days. In spring you plant it an inch down in a deep pot. Five to seven years later, fruit no corporation ever priced.
Bi socair — be still.
What are you growing that won't pay off for years?
#Foraging #Pawpaw #Gardening #SeedSaving #NativePlants #Herbalism #FoodAsMedicine #Gàidhlig #MastoDaoine #Druid #Folklore #Solarpunk #Cooking
2/2 -
So you rinse it, seal it in a bag with barely damp sphagnum, and set it at the back of the refrigerator for ninety to a hundred and twenty days. In spring you plant it an inch down in a deep pot. Five to seven years later, fruit no corporation ever priced.
Bi socair — be still.
What are you growing that won't pay off for years?
#Foraging #Pawpaw #Gardening #SeedSaving #NativePlants #Herbalism #FoodAsMedicine #Gàidhlig #MastoDaoine #Druid #Folklore #Solarpunk #Cooking
2/2 -
So you rinse it, seal it in a bag with barely damp sphagnum, and set it at the back of the refrigerator for ninety to a hundred and twenty days. In spring you plant it an inch down in a deep pot. Five to seven years later, fruit no corporation ever priced.
Bi socair — be still.
What are you growing that won't pay off for years?
#Foraging #Pawpaw #Gardening #SeedSaving #NativePlants #Herbalism #FoodAsMedicine #Gàidhlig #MastoDaoine #Druid #Folklore #Solarpunk #Cooking
2/2 -
So you rinse it, seal it in a bag with barely damp sphagnum, and set it at the back of the refrigerator for ninety to a hundred and twenty days. In spring you plant it an inch down in a deep pot. Five to seven years later, fruit no corporation ever priced.
Bi socair — be still.
What are you growing that won't pay off for years?
#Foraging #Pawpaw #Gardening #SeedSaving #NativePlants #Herbalism #FoodAsMedicine #Gàidhlig #MastoDaoine #Druid #Folklore #Solarpunk #Cooking
2/2 -
Don't let your summer harvest end! 🌱 Turn this year's success into next year's garden by saving your own seeds. Our new blog covers the 5 easiest vegetables to start with, from tomatoes to beans.
Get all the tips here:
https://vegplotter.com/blog/save-your-summer-top-5-seeds-to-collect -
🌱 Want to garden more sustainably? Saving your own seeds is a great way to close the loop and preserve local varieties! 🌻
Check out our latest guide on how to get started:
vegplotter.com/blog/saving-...
#GrowYourOwn #Sustainability #GardeningTips #SeedSaving -
🌱 Want to garden more sustainably? Saving your own seeds is a great way to close the loop and preserve local varieties! 🌻
Check out our latest guide on how to get started:
https://vegplotter.com/blog/saving-seeds-for-a-sustainable-future -
How to Recreate a Pioneer Garden at Home https://www.allforgardening.com/1893750/how-to-recreate-a-pioneer-garden-at-home/ #AppleTrees #compost #EdibleLandscaping #EspalierTechnique #flowers #FoodGardens #FruitTrees #garden #gardening #GardeningTips&Hacks #gardens #HeirloomCrops #herbs #landscaping #MikschGarden #OldSalem #PeachTrees #RaisedGardenBed #SeedSaving #SingleBrothers’Garden #VegetableGarden #vegetables #WinstonSalem
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How to Recreate a Pioneer Garden at Home https://www.allforgardening.com/1893750/how-to-recreate-a-pioneer-garden-at-home/ #AppleTrees #compost #EdibleLandscaping #EspalierTechnique #flowers #FoodGardens #FruitTrees #garden #gardening #GardeningTips&Hacks #gardens #HeirloomCrops #herbs #landscaping #MikschGarden #OldSalem #PeachTrees #RaisedGardenBed #SeedSaving #SingleBrothers’Garden #VegetableGarden #vegetables #WinstonSalem
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Seed for Thought
Saturday’s mail brought the first of the season’s seed catalogs. And Saturday night it snowed. The snow was just a sugar coated dusting, but it was a reminder that winter is coming—eventually—because it is forecast to be as warm as 59F/15C by next Saturday.
But today is gray and very windy and below freezing, a perfect reason to lose myself for a little while in the seed catalog. Yes, yes, I know, the garden just finished up and James picked all the collards Friday and has them fermenting—collard kraut! It’s a thing!
My internet recipe searches told me collard kraut used to be very popular across the southern United States and some people say it is even better than sauerkraut. James has ours fermenting with some garlic and crushed red pepper. I’ll let you know how it comes out.
This is the first year I’ve ever grown collards in the garden, and they’ve been a great success. Not only did they grow well, but we enjoyed eating them too. The small leaves made it fresh into salads and as they got bigger they’d get sautéed with onions and eaten as a side dish or combined with other things like tofu scramble, lentil eggs, curry, or soup. The variety I grew was “yellow cabbage” and came from a Minnesota seed company called North Circle Seeds. I asked James whether he liked the collards enough to grow them again next year, and he said that while it took him a little while to figure out how to use them and get used to cooking with them, he did indeed like them and we should definitely grow them again. Noted!
I also grew Swiss chard for the first time this year and we liked that too. I grew “bright lights” and the plant stalks and leaf vein colors ranged from golden yellow to bright red. We generally ate the leaves while they were small, chopped up in salads, which added some lovely color. The bigger leaves sometimes ended up in a stir fry. This will also make it into next year’s garden. Yum!
Tasty and nutritious!It’s sunchoke digging time! I dug up the first bowl Saturday afternoon just from one small area in the chicken garden. There are sunchokes in the chicken garden because last year I was silly enough to plant two roots along the outside of the chain link fence thinking—actually I don’t know what I was thinking. At the end of last season I dug up half a bowl of huge roots and thought, there, I’ve got them all. Yeah, right.
This year I had even more sunchokes growing along the fence outside and inside the chicken garden. So I dug and I dug and I didn’t worry about pulling out runner roots I came across because I am sure in spring I will discover that they have spread even more.
The sunchoke patch in the main garden is enormous. There will be more bowls to come as James has time to preserve them and I have time to dig and as long as the ground is not frozen. In spring when the ground thaws I will be able to dig up more, and there will be more, because I will find out as they pop up where all the runner roots have gone to this growing season. It’s a good thing we like them.
My turn for Reaping What She Sows: How Women are Rebuilding Our Broken Food System by Nancy Matsumoto came up on Friday. So far I’ve read the first chapter, “Black Mutual Aid, From the Rural South the Urban Northeast,” and it is fantastic.
As with everything in U.S. history, Black farmers have been, and continue to be, discriminated against. You can read a very good and succinct history in this September 2019 Atlantic article (gift link), The Great Land Robbery: The shameful story of how 1 million black families have been ripped from their farms.
Matsumoto tells pieces of this history in her storytelling about a number of women farmers who have created cooperatives, training and helping Black farmers acquire land, seed, and fair prices through a cooperative distribution network. The women and their stories are inspiring and full of lessons on how to support regenerative farming outside a white-supremacist agri-capitalist system.
Matsumoto is familiar with cooperatives. Her Japanese grandparents were interred during World War II and her grandfather helped create a cooperative network in the internment camps. This network became the second largest consumer co-op in the United States. Given the political and economic situation in the United States currently, I suspect we will be seeing more cooperatives and mutual aid societies popping up all over the country in the coming years.
Throughout history women have been the seed keepers, carefully saving and preserving seeds from season to season and generation to generation. A few years ago I read a wonderful novel called The Seed Keeper by Diane Wilson. It is the story of a current day Dakota woman who is gifted a cache of seeds saved by her ancestors when they ran from being attacked by U.S. troops. It is a story of healing and renewal. I was reminded of this novel while reading the first chapter of Reaping What She Sows because one of the women she profiles is a seed keeper and works for Truelove Seeds, an heirloom seed company that offers culturally important seeds.
Of course I had to look at their offerings, and wow! If you want to read more about the company, The Sierra Club has a great article about them, The Preservation of Culture Begins With a Seed I am definitely going to try and grow green striped cushaw squash! And they also have Korean hong-gochu peppers so I can make kimchi and even collard-chi next year.
The next chapter of the book is about rebuilding the grain economy. Looking forward to learning even more!
While I am on the subject of seeds, I have been a fan of Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds and bought seeds from them many times through the years. But in the last few months I’ve found out that as wholesome as they advertise themselves to be, this is not the case. In 2019 they invited a white supremacist to speak at their spring planting festival. After much uproar, they uninvited him, but issued no statement of apology or anything that I was able to discover. I have also heard that they steal seeds from indigenous peoples and then rename them and don’t acknowledge where they really came from, though I am unable to find direct confirmation of that. However, just last year the tomato they had on the cover of their catalog turned out to be a recently released GMO variety they sold as non-GMO. They said their seed came from France and they tested it and the results were inconclusive. Nonetheless, they pulled it from their stock and destroyed all the seeds.
Along with just discovering Truelove Seeds, I learned a few months ago about Native Seed Search and there is also Bertie County Seeds I just found out about. I generally buy seeds from Fedco who tell you exactly where the seeds come from (corporate grower, independent farmer, etc) and also credit and pay indigenous communities for their seeds. There is also Seed Savers Exchange. And then, as I mentioned earlier, North Circle Seeds, a small independent Minnesota seed company that sells varieties that will grow in my climate.
I guess I am getting a lesson in seed keeping and seed companies that I hadn’t thought much about before. Seeds are more than hybrid, open-pollinated, heirloom, GMO, organic. It’s important to know their origins and to make sure the people who have stewarded them are acknowledged and compensated. For some reason I always believed this was the case, but it turns out to be otherwise.
#collardKraut #collards #cooperatives #firstSnow #NorthCircleSeeds #seedCatalogs #seedKeepers #seedSaving #seeds #sunchokes #swissChard #TrueloveSeeds
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I should also add that I saved some to plant in the garden this year. I’m assuming they are climbers. #gardening #seedsaving #seedtotable
