Australia exports about 71% of what it grows, two supermarkets sell around 67% of its groceries, and pub wine lists in wine country get written in head office.
Part two of the osteria test: what we could borrow from Italy. Grower-owned mills and dairies, a GI register run by producers (the EU trade deal gives us one), public plates that buy local.
Next time you're in a wine region, ask the bar what's local.