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Many of my neighbors do not have running water in their homes as the shut off relief runs out and families inherit old houses with systems in need of repair. Detroit meanwhile has high rates as we subsidize the suburbs.
“For the past 25 years, Detroiters have borne the bulk of stormwater upgrades – a capital program that has exceeded $1.5 billion.
The approximately 680,000 residents of Detroit have borne these costs despite accounting for only 23% of GLWA’s 2.9 million wastewater customers.”
https://mastodon.social/@bridgedet313/116572345245498725 -
The thread about #NowAndThen photo montages of old railway stations, tramways and bridges around Edinburgh and Leith
This thread was originally written and published in December 2017 and a further part in May 2019.
This thread features #NowAndThen photo-montages of long gone railway stations, tramways and bridges in Edinburgh and Lieth; period photos overlaid on the current streetscape to show just how much or little things have changed over time.
Duke Street in 1954 on the last day of service for the No. 25 tram. This service ran from Corstorphine to Portobello King’s Road via Leith Walk and the Links. Not much else has changed on this side of the road, although the occupants of the buildings certainly have. On the left was the Palace Cinema, with a snooker hall above. It is now a J. D. Wetherspoon pub.
No. 25 Tram at Duke Street. Original image © Kenneth G. WilliamsonCommercial Street in 1955. The No. 17 tram from Granton passes the “Highland Queen” bonded warehouse of MacDonald and Muir. It is running across the railway lines that crossed into the docks from the former North British railway at North Leith / Leith Citadel station. The bond is now flats, through the West Dock Gate where the railway ran is the now the Scottish Government building – Victoria Quay. The Old West and East docks are infilled, unimaginatively used as car parks. The Victoria Dock is cut off from the harbour basin and is a sterile and bleak water feature in front of Victoria Quay.
No. 17 tram at Commercial Street. Original image © Kenneth G. WilliamsonKing’s Road at Portobello in the 1950s. The No. 12 tram from Corstorphine via Leith, it has just passed the ghost of a car heading the other way to Portobello. The background is dominated by the great red brick lump of Ebenenzer J. Macrae’s Corporation electric power station.
No. 12 Tram at the King’s Road. Original image © Kenneth G. WilliamsonTollcross in 1956. There was a tramway depot here – where the central fire station now is – and the route was also a junction where 3 routes from the suburbs converged and then split immediately into two to head into the city by different routes. As such this was always a busy place on the network and this scene is busy with shoppers and tramcars. The tenement on the right and the castle are all that remain of the original buildings in this shot now.
Trams at Tollcross. Original image © Kenneth G. WilliamsonTrinity Crescent in the 1950s. A no. 17 tram squeezes under the bridge carrying the railway from Trinity Station along Lower Granton Road to the docks. The low bridge and tight S-shaped turn of the road meant that the tramway here was single line in the middle of the road, with the overhead line lowered. A set of traffic signals allowed only 1 tram at a time into this short section and warned motor vehicles that a tram was about to pass as their route swung onto the right lane to make the turn.
No. 17 at Trinity Crescent.And Trinity again in 1986. A ghost train crosses Trinity Road on track removal duties. Click on the link to the EdinPhoto website to see more images of this series.
Trinity railway bridge in the 1980s. Original photo © Peter Stubbs.Moving on to animated transitions, here is Balgreen Halt station. A 1934 addition to the suburban railway network by the LNER (London & North Eastern Railway), it was closed in 1968. Estimate the old photo is early 1960s.
Balgreen Halt. Original CC-BY-SA Ben BrooksbankAnd at the end of the line at Corstorphine. Always a hard one to get your head around as no hint of the stations presence is left under the 1980s housing, beyond the name “Station Road”
Corstorphine Station, 1926. Original Image © Edinburgh City LibrariesSide fact, Corstorphine had extraordinarily long platforms for a suburban station (250m, sufficient for a 12 coach train of 60 foot stock), I believe this was because the railway company hoped that a new barracks to replace the Georgian cavalry establishment at Piershill would be built nearby. The new barracks were ultimately built at Redford instead but Corstorphine was left with its overly large station. There were 2 full platforms and 2 full length carriage sidings. As a result it was used to stable and clean coaching stock overnight and on occasions such as rugby and football matchdays.
Another overlooked Edinburgh suburban station; the awkwardly located Piershill at the foot of Smokey Brae, between Meadowbank and Restalrig. The road here running under the bridge is Clockmill Road, which connected to the Clockmill Lane. This was the ancient route from the Canongate to Restalrig, cut in two by the London Road when it was built in the early 1820s. The road was obliterated and the bridge cut off by the groundworks for the 1970s Commonwealth Games stadium, the velodrome being built on top of the road. The bridge is now blocked up as a garage, but may be re-opened as a through route in the future when the eastern end of the stadium site is redeveloped as housing.
Piershill Station. Original Image © CanmoreLeith Walk station – no, not the big one at the Foot, but the one called Leith Walk towards the top.The demolished tenements of Shrub Hill and Shrub Place are in the background, plus an intriguing belfry. I’m guessing it was the old school next to Pilrig Model Buildings, which later became the “Royal Caledonian Bazaar”.
Leith Walk station, 1890s. Original from The Story of Leith by John RussellNow the site of the Inchkeith House multi-storey flats, the Royal Caledonian Bazaar was a “posting and livery establishment”; basically a horse transport depot. The proprietor was one John Croall. The Croalls were established in the horse business and were pioneers of motoring in Edinburgh. They gave their name, unsurprisingly, to Croall Place, the tenement at the top of Leith Walk where it meets Macdonald Road. Croall & Croall later built car and bus bodies and had a number of works around the West Port and Lothian Road. They later became part of the SMT (Scottish Motor Transport) empire.
Granton Road, once an important suburban commuter station and tram route. It was much more conveniently located for the wealthy suburb of Trinity than the station of that name, and later for the big new housing scheme at Boswall.
Granton Road station, 1955. Original image © Kenneth G. WilliamsonThere’s an old cast iron column just outside where the station was, I always assumed it was a tramway pole for the overhead wires. This photo shows it supported no wires – there’s an actual tramway pole right behind it – and it had a crown-shaped vent cap. It’s not a pole or a lamp post at all, it’s actually a sewer vent – a stink pipe – which is why it has survived.
We move on to Granton station itself. One of the first in Edinburgh and originally the site of a pioneering train ferry to Burntisland before the Forth was bridged. It closed in 1925 as an economy as there was little need by this time for a passenger station in the middle of the docks – most people taking the ferry across the Forth found the electric tramway much more convenient to get into the city than taking the train.
Granton Station, pre-1925. Original image © Kenneth G. WilliamsonThe slip for the train ferries is still used by the Royal Forth Yacht Club. Thomas Bouch’s Floating Railway was an ingenious and effective solution to bridging the Forth before the technology allowed a permanent structure. Basically an early, steam-raised linkspan that lowered a ramp on to a special ferry boat, allowing wagons and carriages to be run aboard. The whole apparatus, rails and all, was on a great wheeled carriage, allowing it to move with the tides. The rails were in short sections, bolted together in such a way that they could flex.
Bouch’s “floating railway”, a rather ingenious solution to the problem of bridging the Forth by railThomas Bouch is an engineer remembered for his greatest and most infamous creation, the first Tay Bridge, but he had a long career in which he constructed many pioneering and innovative solutions to the problems of getting railways across obstacles.
I’m quite chuffed with this image, which shows the evolution of the Upper Drawbridge at Sandport Place. Not only is the river much higher now since the docks were dammed, but the deck was widened and the central arch of the current bridge replaced the lifting section.
The “Upper Drawbridge” over the Water of Leith. Original Image © Peter StubbsThe Water of Leith is no longer a tidal river, as in the 1960s a set of lock gates were installed at the mouth of the docks to keep the dock basin always filled with water to allow bigger and deeper ships to use the port, and not be so restricted by the tides when coming and going. The water level these days is frequently within a foot of the central arch but you can still see the “river bed” in the right conditions only a few feet below that, there must be a good 20 foot of mud and silt and sludge built up on the river bed, unable to be washed out by the tide.
The next image is the same spot as before but looking the other way, to St. Ninian’s Wharf (named for the old North Leith Kirk behind, with its distinctive Dutch tower). The site of a dry dock and boatbuilding yard in the 1850s and 60s.
St. Ninian’s Wharf, original image by Thomas Vernon Begbie, taken in the 1850s. © Edinburgh City LibrariesThe photo confused me for a good while, as I assumed that the ship must be in the dry dock, which was one of the first dry dock in Scotland so pre-dated the photo by about 100 years. I later realised that the ship being built in the picture is not in the dry dock at all, but on a building slip alongside, with a temporary coffer dam following the line of the river wall – marked in red on the Town Plan below.
OS 1849 Town Plan. Reproduced with the permission of the National Library of ScotlandThat ship may even be on a “patent slip”, a Leith invention.
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#Lochend #Logan #Restalrig #StMargaret -
I sat under the stern of the ship where it bridged out like a fin shielding my head from the harsh rain.
I couldn't understand why the bay didn't have a roof, but I didn't mind. Until we came here I could not remember when the last time I was caught in rain.
"Pretty #grim huh?" I heard a voice behind me say.
"Grim... Nah. I grew up on one of the old mega ships... I never saw sky till I turned 17. I felt rain just 3 years ago."
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The #Telegram and #Matrix groups named #FamilyOfLisp are now synchronized (bridged):
🦎 https://telegram.me/FamilyOfLisp
🦎 https://matrix.to/#/#family-of-lisp:magdeburg.jetzt
The two groups are for friendly exchange and dialogue on topics related to the Family of #Lisp #programming languages.
🌺
🏷️ #Scheme #CommonLisp #Racket #Clojure #DylanLang #ELSConf #AMOP #CLOS #InterLisp #OpenGenera #LispMachine #Medley #ConnectionMachine #Symbolics #AutoLisp #MacLisp #ZetaLisp #EuLisp #ISLisp #CLHS #SICP #AIMA #CLtL2 #PAIP #HTDP
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The #Telegram and #Matrix groups named #FamilyOfLisp are now synchronized (bridged):
🦎 https://telegram.me/FamilyOfLisp
🦎 https://matrix.to/#/#family-of-lisp:magdeburg.jetzt
The two groups are for friendly exchange and dialogue on topics related to the Family of #Lisp #programming languages.
🌺
🏷️ #Scheme #CommonLisp #Racket #Clojure #DylanLang #ELSConf #AMOP #CLOS #InterLisp #OpenGenera #LispMachine #Medley #ConnectionMachine #Symbolics #AutoLisp #MacLisp #ZetaLisp #EuLisp #ISLisp #CLHS #SICP #AIMA #CLtL2 #PAIP #HTDP
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The #Telegram and #Matrix groups named #FamilyOfLisp are now synchronized (bridged):
🦎 https://telegram.me/FamilyOfLisp
🦎 https://matrix.to/#/#family-of-lisp:magdeburg.jetzt
The two groups are for friendly exchange and dialogue on topics related to the Family of #Lisp #programming languages.
🌺
🏷️ #Scheme #CommonLisp #Racket #Clojure #DylanLang #ELSConf #AMOP #CLOS #InterLisp #OpenGenera #LispMachine #Medley #ConnectionMachine #Symbolics #AutoLisp #MacLisp #ZetaLisp #EuLisp #ISLisp #CLHS #SICP #AIMA #CLtL2 #PAIP #HTDP
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Detroit closes in on goal to double tree canopy
https://www.bridgedetroit.com/detroit-closes-in-on-goal-to-double-tree-canopy/
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Heather Cox Richardson reflects on Reverend Jesse Jackson's enduring legacy, who passed at 84, linking his Selma marches to current justice fights. His life bridged civil rights gains and calls for equality, offering lessons on democratic hope. Discover his inspiring journey: https://heathercoxrichardson.substack.com/p/march-6-2026 #CivilRights #Selma
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Heather Cox Richardson reflects on Reverend Jesse Jackson's enduring legacy, who passed at 84, linking his Selma marches to current justice fights. His life bridged civil rights gains and calls for equality, offering lessons on democratic hope. Discover his inspiring journey: https://heathercoxrichardson.substack.com/p/march-6-2026 #CivilRights #Selma
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Coverage.
Grüsch, #Graubünden #Schweiz
#Hunderunde #dog #BridgeObsession -
@Floppy @amcewen @ngi @nlnet @EUCommission
Btw, I just used the phrasing "ActivityPub ecosystems", plural, in a fork of this discussion (see quote of this post).
And I think that against the holistic breadth and scope that I am exploring our fediverse #technology landscape, that is a fair assessment.
In this wild garden of our #fediverse commons, there exist different islands of green moss, sometimes barely touching, or with infurtile patches between them to be bridged, or actively repelling each other, lacking synergetic relationships that make furtile tendrils intertwine.
That is for another exploration in a future blog post I may write, come my self #sustainability again. #SX et all is all just Hobby social activity track (SAT) right now..
https://coding.social/blog/reimagine-social/#social-activity-tracks
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FT8: The Digital Revolution of Modern Amateur Radio
2,237 words, 12 minutes read time.
FT8 is a digital communication protocol released in 2017 by Joe Taylor, K1JT, and Steve Franke, K9AN, designed to allow radio amateurs to exchange contact information under extreme weak-signal conditions. Operating primarily on High Frequency (HF) bands, FT8 uses a precise 15-second sequence of structured data bursts to transmit call signs, signal reports, and grid squares even when the human ear can hear nothing but static. This mode has fundamentally shifted the landscape of ham radio by enabling reliable global communication during the low points of the solar cycle, ensuring that operators can maintain “workable” signals despite poor ionospheric propagation. Its rapid adoption stems from its efficiency and the fact that it allows modest stations with simple wire antennas and low power to compete with massive “big gun” contest stations.
The technical backbone of FT8 is a specialized form of digital modulation known as 8-slot Frequency Shift Keying (8-FSK). This means the signal shifts between eight distinct tones, each representing a specific piece of data. Because the bandwidth is incredibly narrow—only 50 Hz—multiple conversations can happen simultaneously within a standard 3 kHz single-sideband radio channel without interfering with one another. To make this work, the protocol requires absolute synchronization. Every participating computer must have its internal clock set to within one second of Coordinated Universal Time (UTC). This allows the software to know exactly when to start listening for a message and when to begin transmitting its own response. Without this temporal precision, the sequence breaks down and the data becomes unreadable noise.
The “how” of FT8 is a masterclass in forward error correction and data compression. A standard FT8 message is only 75 bits long, yet it contains everything necessary to confirm a legal and valid contact. Joe Taylor, a Nobel Prize-winning astrophysicist, applied the same principles used to detect faint signals from deep space to the world of amateur radio. By using sophisticated algorithms, the software can reconstruct a message even if a significant portion of the signal is lost to fading or atmospheric interference. This capability allows FT8 to function at signal-to-noise ratios as low as -21 dB. To put that in perspective, an FT8 signal can be decoded when it is significantly weaker than the background noise of the universe itself.
The impact of this mode on the hobby cannot be overstated. Before FT8, many men found themselves frustrated by “dead bands” where hours of calling “CQ” yielded no results. FT8 turned the hobby into a 24/7 pursuit. According to the ARRL (American Radio Relay League), FT8 and its successor modes now account for a massive percentage of all amateur radio activity globally. It has bridged the gap between traditional radio technology and modern computing, appealing to men who enjoy the technical challenge of optimizing a digital interface while still respecting the core physics of radio wave propagation. It is the tool of the modern digital woodsman, carving out a path through the noise of a crowded spectrum.
The Mechanics of the 15-Second Cycle
Understanding the rhythm of FT8 is essential for any man looking to master the digital airwaves. The protocol operates on a rigid 15-second “time slot” system. In the first 12.64 seconds of a slot, the message is transmitted; the remaining time is used for the software to process the data and for the operator to prepare the next response. This “even/odd” sequence ensures that two stations aren’t talking over each other. One station transmits on the even-numbered minutes and 15-second intervals, while the other listens, then they swap. This disciplined structure removes the guesswork and chaos often found in voice or Morse code pile-ups, creating an orderly flow of information that maximizes the use of available airtime.
To get on the air with FT8, an operator needs more than just a radio and an antenna; he needs a bridge between the analog and digital worlds. This is usually achieved through a dedicated USB interface or a built-in sound card in modern transceivers. The software—most commonly WSJT-X—takes the digital data from the computer, converts it into audio tones, and feeds those tones into the radio’s transmitter. On the receiving end, the process is reversed. The radio “hears” a series of chirps and warbles, which the sound card captures and the software decodes back into text on the screen. This synergy of hardware and software is what makes FT8 a true “hybrid” mode of communication.
The software interface provides a “waterfall” display, a visual representation of the radio spectrum where signals appear as vertical blue or yellow streaks. This allows an operator to see exactly where the activity is and find an open “slot” to transmit. It is a highly visual and tactical way to operate. Instead of spinning a dial and listening for a faint voice, you are scanning a digital landscape, looking for the telltale signatures of other stations. For many men, this adds a layer of strategy to the hobby that is deeply engaging, akin to a high-stakes game of electronic chess where the board is the entire planet.
Why Signal-to-Noise Ratio Matters
In the world of radio, the Signal-to-Noise Ratio (SNR) is the ultimate metric of success. It is the difference between the strength of the desired signal and the level of background atmospheric noise. FT8 excels because it is “wideband” in its ability to hear, but “narrowband” in its transmission. Because the tones are so precise and the error correction so robust, FT8 can pull a signal out of a “noise floor” that would render a voice transmission completely unintelligible. This is the primary reason why FT8 is the go-to mode for “DXing”—the art of contacting long-distance stations. It levels the playing field, allowing a man with a 100-watt radio and a wire in his backyard to talk to someone in Antarctica or Japan.
The mathematical genius behind FT8 involves a process called “Costas arrays” and “Low-Density Parity-Check” (LDPC) codes. These are not just buzzwords; they are the tools that allow the software to identify the start of a transmission and fix any bits that were flipped or lost during the journey through the ionosphere. As Joe Taylor noted in his technical documentation for the WSJT-X suite, the goal was to create a mode that was “optimized for the specific characteristics of HF propagation.” By focusing on short, structured bursts rather than long-form conversation, FT8 prioritizes the successful completion of a contact over everything else.
This efficiency does come with a trade-off. FT8 is not a “rag-chewing” mode. You won’t be discussing the weather or your favorite sports team. The messages are strictly limited to the essentials: call sign, signal report (in dB), and location (maidenhead grid square). However, for many men, the thrill is in the “catch.” The satisfaction comes from seeing a distant, rare station pop up on the screen and successfully completing that 60-second digital handshake. It is a hobby centered on the achievement of technical milestones and the collection of digital “QSL” cards that prove you reached the far corners of the earth.
Integration with Modern Computing
The rise of FT8 has coincided with the ubiquity of high-speed internet and powerful home computers. This integration has led to the creation of the “PSK Reporter” network, a massive, real-time map of global radio propagation. When your computer decodes an FT8 signal, it can automatically upload that data to a central server. This allows any operator in the world to see exactly where their signal is being heard in real-time. It is a revolutionary tool for understanding the ionosphere. A man can send out a few “CQ” calls and then check a website to see that he is being heard in Spain, Australia, and Brazil, all within seconds.
This real-time feedback loop has changed the way men approach radio. It removes the mystery and replaces it with data. If you aren’t being heard, you can immediately troubleshoot your antenna or wait for the bands to open up. This data-driven approach appeals to the problem-solving nature of the masculine mind. It turns amateur radio into a laboratory where the results are visible and measurable. You aren’t just shouting into the void; you are probing the atmosphere and receiving instant confirmation of your reach.
Furthermore, FT8 has fostered a global community of “citizen scientists.” By contributing data to these networks, ham operators are helping researchers understand solar cycles and their impact on global communications. As noted in various IEEE publications, the sheer volume of data generated by FT8 operators provides a unique look at the Earth’s upper atmosphere that was previously impossible to obtain on such a scale. When you engage in FT8, you aren’t just playing with a radio; you are part of a global sensor network that monitors the very fringes of our planet’s environment.
The Role of Precision Timing
As mentioned, timing is the lifeblood of FT8. Because the protocol relies on such tight windows of transmission, even a two-second drift in your computer’s clock can make you invisible to the rest of the world. This has led to the widespread use of time-synchronization software like Dimension 4 or Meinberg NTP. For the radio enthusiast, this adds another layer of technical “shack” maintenance. Ensuring that your station is perfectly synced to the atomic clocks in Colorado or via GPS is a point of pride. It represents the discipline required to participate in high-level digital communications.
This requirement for precision also highlights the evolution of the amateur radio station. The modern “shack” is often a clean, streamlined desk featuring a high-resolution monitor and a sleek transceiver. Gone are the days of massive, heat-spewing vacuum tube amplifiers—though those still have their place. The FT8 operator is a digital navigator, managing signal levels, gain settings, and software configurations to ensure the cleanest possible signal. Over-driving the audio, for instance, creates “splatter” that ruins the frequency for others. Mastery of FT8 requires a gentleman’s agreement to maintain a clean signal and respect the shared bandwidth of the community.
The discipline of the 15-second cycle also introduces a meditative quality to the hobby. There is a cadence to it—transmit, wait, decode, respond. It requires focus and patience. You are watching the waterfall, waiting for that specific signal to emerge from the static. When the software finally highlights a successful decode in bright red or green, there is a genuine sense of accomplishment. It is a modern manifestation of the same thrill early radio pioneers felt when they first heard a Morse code signal crackle through their headsets a century ago.
FT8 and the Future of Amateur Radio
While some traditionalists argue that FT8 has taken the “human element” out of radio, the reality is that it has saved the hobby for thousands of men. In an era of high urban noise and restricted antenna space, FT8 allows a man to remain active and competitive. You don’t need a 100-foot tower to be a successful FT8 operator; a simple wire hidden in the attic can often be enough to work the world. It has democratized the airwaves, making the thrill of long-distance communication accessible to anyone with a basic radio and a laptop.
Looking forward, FT8 is just the beginning. The principles of weak-signal digital communication are being applied to even more robust modes like FT4 (a faster version for contesting) and JS8Call (which allows for actual keyboard-to-keyboard messaging). The technology is constantly evolving, driven by the same spirit of innovation that has defined amateur radio since its inception. As we move deeper into the 21st century, the marriage of radio physics and digital signal processing will only grow stronger, ensuring that the airwaves remain a vibrant frontier for exploration and discovery.
In conclusion, FT8 represents the pinnacle of modern amateur radio engineering. It is a mode built on the foundations of advanced mathematics, precise timing, and a deep understanding of the natural world. For the man who is looking to earn his license, FT8 offers a clear path toward global connectivity and technical mastery. It is a testament to the fact that even when the sun is quiet and the bands seem dead, there is always a way to reach out and touch the other side of the planet. The digital revolution is here, and it is chirping across the HF bands in 15-second increments, waiting for the next generation of operators to join the conversation.
Call to Action
If this story caught your attention, don’t just scroll past. Join the community—men sharing skills, stories, and experiences. Subscribe for more posts like this, drop a comment about your projects or lessons learned, or reach out and tell me what you’re building or experimenting with. Let’s grow together.
D. Bryan King
Sources
- WSJT-X Official Home Page – Princeton University
- ARRL: FT8 Most Popular Digital Mode
- PSK Reporter Real-Time Propagation Map
- Getting Started with FT8 – Essex Ham
- A Guide to FT8 Operating – QSL.net
- WSJT-X Users Group – Groups.io
- Digital Mode Interfaces – DX Engineering
- The FT8 Protocol White Paper
- RSGB FT8 Operating Guide
- Time.is – Synchronize Your Computer Clock
- FT8 Technical Overview – HF Underground Wiki
- Fldigi and Digital Mode Resources
- Icom Amateur Radio Digital Modes Overview
Disclaimer:
The views and opinions expressed in this post are solely those of the author. The information provided is based on personal research, experience, and understanding of the subject matter at the time of writing. Readers should consult relevant experts or authorities for specific guidance related to their unique situations.
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USS Laurel Hill, May 26, 1862 (Baldwin Lithograph, Collection of President Franklin D. Roosevelt, Hyde Park, New York, 1936, U.S. Naval Heritage Command, public domain).
Barely out of sight of the city of Alexandria, in Rapides Parish Louisiana, when it ran into the enemy during its retreat south in mid-May 1864, the Union’s Army of the Gulf easily defeated the Confederate States Army troops it encountered and continued its trek toward the village of Marksville in Avoyelles Parish. Members of the 47th Pennsylvania Volunteer Infantry, which was positioned farther back in the Union column, were aware of, but not involved in, that short engagement. According to C Company Musician Henry D. Wharton:
After marching a few miles skirmishing commenced in front between the cavalry and the enemy in riflepits [sic] on the bank of the river, but they were easily driven away. When we came up we discovered their pits and places where there had been batteries planted. At this point the John Warren, an unarmed transport, on which were sick soldiers and women, was fired into and sunk, killing many and those that were not drowned taken prisoners. A tin-clad gunboat was destroyed at the same place, by which we lost a large mail. Many letters and directed envelopes were found on the bank – thrown there after the contents had been read by the unprincipled scoundrels. The inhumanity of Guerrilla bands in this department is beyond belief, and if one did not know the truth of it or saw some of their barbarities, he would write it down as the story of a ‘reliable gentleman’ or as told by an ‘intelligent contraband.’ Not satisfied with his murderous intent on unarmed transports he fires into the Hospital steamer Laurel Hill, with four hundred sick on board. This boat had the usual hospital signal floating fore and aft, yet, notwithstanding all this, and the customs of war, they fired on them, proving by this act that they are more hardened than the Indians on the frontier.
* Note: The USS Laurel Hill survived the attack and, in a few short weeks, became the final home for ailing 47th Pennsylvania Volunteers, including Corporal William Schweitzer and Privates Amandus Bellis and Nicholas Hoffman (Company A) and Private John Witz (Company E).
Map of key 1864 Red River Campaign locations, showing the battle sites of Sabine Cross Roads, Pleasant Hill and Mansura in relation to the Union’s occupation sites at Alexandria, Grand Ecore, Morganza, and New Orleans (excerpt from Dickinson College/U.S. Library of Congress map, public domain; click to enlarge).
Resuming their trek south with the retreating Army of the Gulf, the 47th Pennsylvania Volunteers engaged in yet another long march, trudging more than thirty miles as the month of May 1864 wore on. According to the expedition’s commanding officer, Union Major-General Nathaniel P. Banks:
The fleet passed below Alexandria on the 13th of May. The army on its march from Alexandria did not encounter the enemy in force until near the town of Mansura. He was driven through the town in the evening of the 14th of May, and at daybreak next morning our advance encountered his cavalry on the prairie east of the town.
According to Henry Wharton, “On Sunday, May 15, we left the river road and took a short route through the woods, saving considerable distance.”
The windings of Red river are so numerous that it resembles the tape-worm railroad wherewith the politicians frightened the dear people during the administration of Ritner and Stevens. – We stopped several hours in the woods to leave cavalry pass, when we moved forward and by four o’clock emerged into a large open plain where we formed in line of battle, expecting a regular engagement. The enemy, however, retired and we advanced ‘till dark, when the forces halted for the night, with orders to rest on their arms. – ‘Twas here that Banks rode through our regiment, amidst the cheers of the boys, and gave the pleasant news that Grant had defeated Lee.
“Sleeping on Their Arms” by Winslow Homer (Harper’s Weekly, May 21, 1864).
Positioned just outside of the town of Marksville, under orders to “rest on their arms” for the night, the 47th Pennsylvanians half-dozed with their rifles within a finger’s length—but without the benefit of tents for cover. It was the eve of the Battle of Mansura, which unfolded on May 16, 1864 as follows, according to Wharton:
Early next morning we marched through Marksville into a prairie nine miles long and six wide where every preparation was made for a fight. The whole of our force was formed in line, in support of artillery in front, who commenced operations on the enemy driving him gradually from the prairie into the woods. As the enemy retreated before the heavy fire of our artillery, the infantry advanced in line until they reached Mousoula [sic, Mansura], where they formed in column, taking the whole field in an attempt to flank the enemy, but their running qualities were so good that we were foiled. The maneuvring [sic, maneuvering] of the troops was handsomely done, and the movements was [sic, were] one of the finest things of the war. The fight of artillery was a steady one of five miles. The enemy merely stood that they might cover the retreat of their infantry and train under cover of their artillery.
Per Major-General Banks, the Confederate troops “fell back, with steady and sharp skirmishing across the prairie, to a belt of woods, which he occupied.”
The enemy’s position covered three roads diverging from Mansura to the Atchafalaya. He manifested a determination here to obstinately resist our passage. The engagement, which lasted several hours, was confined chiefly to the artillery until our troops got possession of the edge of the woods – first upon our left by General Emory; subsequently on our right by General Smith, when he was driven from the field, after a sharp and decisive fight, with considerable loss.
According to military historian Steven E. Clay, “As the Army of the Gulf marched from Alexandria to Simmesport, it followed the River Road. As it moved, Taylor’s cavalry harassed the column from all sides.”
Steele’s men resumed the pressure on A. J. Smith’s rearguard. Annoying Emory and the cavalry advanced guard was Major and Bagby’s commands. The troops also attempted to slow the Federal march by cutting trees and placing other obstacles in the way. Parson’s men skirmished with Gooding’s troopers on the right flank. None of the rebel cavalry’s efforts, however, appreciably slowed the Union column.
On 14 May, the army’s van arrived at Bayour Choctaw. Emory called the pontoon train forward, and within a short time, the pontonniers had the stream bridged and the army was crossing…. That evening the troops of the XIX Corps [including the 47th Pennsylvania Volunteers] bivouacked beside the wrecks of the John Warner, Signal, and Covington. Strewn upon the ground were the letters many of the men had mailed to their loved ones earlier and had been placed on the Warner bound for New Orleans. The rebel soldiers had opened the letters, read them for entertainment, and simply tossed them aside. The idea did not sit well with the Federals, but neither did the wanton destruction and plunder of civilian homes with the Confederates.
On 15 May the column slowly crossed the Bayou Choctaw Swamp and entered the Avoyelles … Prairie. There, Major’s cavalry, later along with Bagby’s troops, attacked the lead elements several times. The fighting became so hot at moments that Emory deployed his artillery to help drive the bothersome rebel troopers away…. By nightfall … the XIX Corps had reached Marksville with the rest of the army strung out behind.
Late on 15 May, Banks learned that Taylor had massed his forces six miles ahead at the town of Mansura, evidently with the intention of blocking further Federal movement on the road to Simmesport…. On learning of the concentration of rebel forces, Banks sent orders to Emory directing him to move no later than 0300 [3 a.m.] on 16 May and to attack the enemy at daybreak. Further, Smith advanced on Emory’s right to attack into Taylor’s left flank. The XIII Corps [13th Corps], now under Lawler since 9 May … was to remain in front of Marksville as the reserve. The trains [Union wagon trains] were held behind that town….
As ordered, the Army of the Gulf moved south before sunrise. As morning dawned, the Federal army began its deployment on the wide open plain of the Avoyelles Prairie. The US troops advanced with Emory’s XIX [including the 47th Pennsylvania] in the lead with Grover’s 1st Division on the Federal left near the Grand River and McMillan’s 2nd Division [including the 47th Pennsylvania] on the right. The XIX Corps was followed by A. J. Smith’s XVI Corps [16th Corps] in column; Mower’s division was followed by that of Kilby Smith. As the Federal brigades deployed on the field they could see the Confederate battle line in the distance. Virtually in the center of the battlefield was the tiny village of Mansura.
According to Clay, Confederate Major-General Richard Taylor (a plantation owner and son of former U.S. President Zachary Taylor) “had placed eight dismounted cavalry regiments from Major’s and Bagby’s commands to the east of the hamlet” of Mansura. “At least 19 cannon with the batteries interspersed among the brigades supported these troops.” Confederate Brigadier-General Camille Armand Jules Marie, the Prince de Polignac, a prince of France who fought with the Confederate Army during America’s Civil War and whom the 47th Pennsylvanian Volunteers had previously faced in combat during the Battle of Sabine Cross Roads near Mansfield, Louisiana, “posted his two small infantry brigades and two dismounted regiments of cavalry on the left, west of town, and thirteen more guns supported Polignac’s force.”
New York Tribune headline announcing the U.S. Army of the Gulf’s May 1864 victory near Marksville, Louisiana (New York Tribune, June 3, 1864, public domain).
Standing “on a flat, green savanna,” according to Clay, the troops under Brigadier-General Emory’s command, including the 47th Pennsylvania Volunteers, were the first to march into the battle’s fray, followed by A. J. Smith’s “divisions to the right of the line.” It quickly became obvious to all who were watching the scene unfold that Taylor had woefully misjudged his opponents; his six thousand Confederates were greeted with the spectacle of the eighteen-thousand strong Army of the Gulf arrayed before them.
According to Clay, “The battle began sometime after 0600 [6 a.m.] with a mutual artillery bombardment.”
As the fusillade opened, commanders on both sides ordered their men to lie down in order to reduce casualties during the artillery duel. The tactic was effective. The barrage lasted about four hours, but few men were struck by the many rounds fired. As the Union battle line rose and moved forward on occasion, Taylor’s skirmish line responded by slowly giving ground…. Finally, at about 1000 (1 p.m.), as the XVI Corps pressed forward on the Confederate left to flank Taylor’s position as planned, the rebel line quickly sidestepped the move and fell back toward their trains which were located southwest in the village of Evergreen.
Unlike the sanguinary opening battles of the Red River Campaign, the Battle of Mansura was far less brutal. Per Wharton:
Our loss was slight. Of the rebels we could not ascertain correctly, but learned from citizens who had secreted themselves during the fight, that they had many killed and wounded, who threw them into wagons, promiscuously, and drove them off so that we could not learn their casualties.
Afterward, the victorious Army of the Gulf resumed its march south. According Major-General Banks:
The 16th of May we reached Simmsport [sic, Simmesport], on the Atchafalaya. Being entirely destitute of any ordinary bridge material for the passage of this river – about six hundred yards wide – a bridge was constructed of the steamers, under direction of Lieutenant Colonel Bailey. This work was not of the same magnitude, but was as important to the army as the dam at Alexandria was to the navy. It had the merit of being an entirely novel construction, no bridge of such magnitude having been constructed of similar materials. The bridge was completed at one o’clock on the 19th of May. The wagon train passed in the afternoon, and the troops the next morning, in better spirit and condition, as able and eager to meet the enemy as at any period of the campaign.
Union Major-General Nathaniel Banks subsequently reported that, during the Army of the Gulf’s final engagement with Confederates, the “command of General A. J. Smith, which covered the rear of the army during the construction of the bridge and the passage of the army, had a severe engagement with the enemy, under Polignac, on the afternoon of the 19th, at Yellow Bayou, which lasted several hours.”
Our loss was about one hundred and fifty in killed and wounded; that of the enemy much greater, besides many prisoners who were taken by our troops. Major General E. R. S. Canby arrived at Simmsport [sic, Simmesport] on the 19th of May, and the next day assumed command of the troops as a portion of the forces of the military division of the West Mississippi, to the command of which he had been assigned.
The 47th Pennsylvania, however, was not involved in that battle at Yellow Bayou; according to Wharton:
This fight was the last one of the expedition. The whole of the force is safe on the Mississippi, gunboats, transports and trains. The 16th and 17th have gone to their old commands.
It is amusing to read the statements of correspondents to papers North, concerning our movements and the losses of our army. I have it from the best source that the Federal loss from Franklin to Mansfield, and from their [sic] to this point does not exceed thirty-five hundred in killed, wounded and missing, while that of the rebels is over eight thousand.
Union Army base at Morganza Bend, Louisiana, circa 1863-1865 (U.S. Library of Congress, public domain).
After that final battle, the surviving members of the 47th made their way through Simmesport and into the Atchafalaya Basin, and then moved on to the village of Morganza, where they made camp again. According to Wharton, the members of Company C were sent on a special mission which took them on an intense journey of one hundred and twenty miles:
Company C, on last Saturday was detailed by the General in command of the Division to take one hundred and eighty-seven prisoners (rebs) to New Orleans. This they done [sic] satisfactorily and returned yesterday to their regiment, ready for duty. While in the City some of the boys made Captain Gobin quite a handsome present, to show their appreciation of him as an officer gentleman.
By May 28, 1864, the men from Company C had returned from New Orleans and were once again encamped at Morganza with the full 47th Pennsylvania Volunteer Infantry, prompting Henry Wharton to write:
The boys are well. James Kennedy who was wounded at Pleasant Hill, died at New Orleans hospital a few days ago. His friends in the company were pleased to learn that Dr. Dodge of Sunbury, now of the U.S. Steamer Octorora, was with him in his last moments, and ministered to his wants. The Doctor was one of the Surgeons from the Navy who volunteered when our wounded was [sic, were] sent to New Orleans.
Their long trek through Louisiana was over, but their fight to preserve America’s Union was not.
Sources:
- Banks, Nathaniel P. “Report of the Red River Campaign,” in “Annual Report of the Secretary of War,” in Message of the President of the United States, and Accompanying Documents, to the Two Houses of Congress, at the Commencement of the First Session of the Thirty-Ninth Congress. Washington: Government Printing Office, 1866.
- Bates, Samuel P. History of Pennsylvania Volunteers, 1861-5, vol. 1. Harrisburg, Pennsylvania: B. Singerly, State Printer, 1869.
- “Battle of Pleasant Hill, April 9, 1864, Walker’s Texas Division Campaign Map, Detail,” in “House Divided.” Carlisle, Pennsylvania: History Department, Dickinson College, November 21, 2009 (cropped from the original public domain map available on the website of the U.S. Library of Congress).
- Clay, Steven E. The Staff Ride Handbook for the Red River Campaign, 7 March-19 May 1864. Fort Leavenworth, Kansas: Combat Studies Institute Press, U.S. Army Combined Arms Centers, 2023.
- Prisoner of War Records, Camp Ford and Camp Groce (47th Pennsylvania Volunteer Infantry). Tyler Texas: Smith County Historical Society, 2010.
- “Report of Maj. Gen. Nathaniel P. Banks, U. S. Army, Commanding Expedition and Department of the Gulf” (to Edwin M. Stanton, Secretary of War), in Annual Report of the Secretary of War, in Message of the President of the United States, and Accompanying Documents, to the Two Houses of Congress, at the Commencement of the First Session of the Thirty-Ninth Congress. Washington, D.C.: Government Printing Office, 1866.
- Schmidt, Lewis G. A Civil War History of the 47th Regiment of Pennsylvania Veteran Volunteers. Allentown, Pennsylvania: Self-published, 1986.
- “The History of the Forty-Seventh Regt. P. V.” Allentown, Pennsylvania: The Lehigh Register, July 20, 1870.
- Wharton, Henry D. Letters from the Sunbury Guards, 1861-1868. Sunbury, Pennsylvania: Sunbury American.
#003366 #1864 #47thPennsylvaniaInfantry #47thPennsylvaniaVolunteers #Alexandria #America #AmericanCivilWar #AmericanHistory #Army #ArmyOfTheGulf #Atchafalaya #AvoyellesParish #BattleOfMansura #CivilWar #CommonwealthOfPennsylvania #Emory #History #Infantry #LaurelHill #Louisiana #Mansura #Marksville #Morganza #NathanielPBanks #PennsylvaniaHistory #PennsylvaniaInTheCivilWar #RapidesParish #RedRiver #RedRiverCampaign #Simmesport #Slavery #TheUnionArmy #USMilitaryAndTheUnionArmy #USSLaurelHill #WilliamHEmory #XIXCorps
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Many beeps later, it turned out the green pin on the GPU was accidentally bridged with the ground pin next to it. A relatively easy fix. Not pretty by any means, but I managed. Card back in the PC, flux and all, and it was stable as well as displaying the right colors! 🙂
It's a bit faster than the #ATI #Mach64 card I had in it before, but by no means super fast. A high quality Quake speed test gave around 72 FPS. I think it was in 640x480.
Also, I read that the ET6000 has issues with #ModeX - a tweaked version of the standard mode 0x13 that offered a slightly higher resolution of 320x240 pixels in 256 colors with some improvements to addressing, if I'm not mistaken. A few games used this, but also quite a lot of demos of the time.
Anyway, bottom line: purchased a €160 vintage graphics card for €25 and nearly shot myself in my foot repairing it! Everything worked out in the end though! 🙂
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https://www.cyclingeu.com/691608/how-tall-is-the-millau-viaduct-exploring-southwest-europe/ How Tall Is The Millau Viaduct? – Exploring Southwest Europe #Bicycling #BicyclingFrance #BicyclingSouthOfFrance #Biking #BikingFrance #BikingSouthOfFrance #BridgeDesign #Cycling #CyclingAdventure #CyclingFrance #CyclingMillauFrance #CyclingSouthOfFrance #EngineeringMarvel #France #MillauViaduct #Occitanie #OutdoorActivities #SouthOfFrance #SouthernFrance #TallestBridge #TarnRiver #TravelEurope
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GoComics: seeking to be a dependence machine, to have the users' behavioral data, both, or something else?
Going by another post, they even sent a C&D letter to some tool that bridged their posts to RSS.
#GoComics #RSS #privacy #enshittification
Source: https://gocomics.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/34107442635415-Does-GoComics-have-RSS-feeds
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Langwieser viaducts underestimated little sister.
Langwies Gründjitobel, #Graubünden #Schweiz
#train #BridgeObsession #railway #RhätischeBahn -
Langwieser viaducts underestimated little sister.
Langwies Gründjitobel, #Graubünden #Schweiz
#train #BridgeObsession #railway #RhätischeBahn -
Langwieser viaducts underestimated little sister.
Langwies Gründjitobel, #Graubünden #Schweiz
#train #BridgeObsession #railway #RhätischeBahn -
Langwieser viaducts underestimated little sister.
Langwies Gründjitobel, #Graubünden #Schweiz
#train #BridgeObsession #railway #RhätischeBahn -
Langwieser viaducts underestimated little sister.
Langwies Gründjitobel, #Graubünden #Schweiz
#train #BridgeObsession #railway #RhätischeBahn -
Turns out.
Saas im #Prättigau, #Graubünden #Schweiz
#RhB #train #FensterAuf #BridgeObsession -
Turns out.
Saas im #Prättigau, #Graubünden #Schweiz
#RhB #train #FensterAuf #BridgeObsession -
Turns out.
Saas im #Prättigau, #Graubünden #Schweiz
#RhB #train #FensterAuf #BridgeObsession -
Turns out.
Saas im #Prättigau, #Graubünden #Schweiz
#RhB #train #FensterAuf #BridgeObsession -
Absolutely honoured to listen to Deborah Udon who is speaking as part of the #EmergingVoices plenary session at #RSECon24. She’s sharing how she bridged her passion for #Healthcare through #OpenSource contributions, particularly through her work with #OLS https://we-are-ols.org/community.html
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Hey #londoners!
I made @tflbot.bsky.social on Bluesky to get (near) real-time updates for TFL statuses!
I bridged it to Mastodon/Fedi so feel free to follow aswell! 😁
I wasn’t too sure with how to do some of the API-related things so Cursor (AI) helped me but it’s all open source on my GitHub.
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Any hams that are interested I have completed the VK Calling and the VK Nets Hubs if your interested making use of the hubs you can connect via the following modes. Will have a web page up soon with like to all the dashboards soon.
#VK Calling Hub (bridged out to #FreeDMR 505)
#ASL: 572981
#M17: 434 B
#YSF: 50505 (AU-VK-FDMR505)
#NXDN: 50505
#P25: 50505VK Nets Hub (bridged to FreeDMR 50500)
ASL: 572982
M17: 434 E
YSF: 50500 (AU-VK-FDMR50500)
NXDN: 50500
P25: 50500 -
The wild reaches of Aragón
About half the size of Portugal, we knew very little of Spain’s Aragón region. That was about to change as our road from Extremadura led us through its northern reaches bound for the co-principality of Andorra.
Coordinates
- Alhama de Aragón
- Nuévalos
- Zaragoza
- Castejón de Monegros
- Sariñena
- Alquézar
- Rodellar
- Barbastro
- Torla-Ordesa
- Viacamp
- Estopiñán del Castillo
Into Aragón
From Aranjuez we began our journey northeast towards Zaragoza, noting changes in the landscape once we had escaped the spaghetti junctions, slow traffic and industrialized zones in Madrid’s orbit. We saw red earth in the hills near Medinaceli (📷1) and green fields further along the A-2 near Arcos de Jalón (📷2), both in the Castile and León region. Crossing into Aragón we came to the spa town of Alhama de Aragón, a name derived from Arabic, although its thermal springs were known in Roman times (📷3). A bridge crossing on Embalse de la Tranquera | Tranquillity Reservoir, which certainly lives up to its name, as we approached pitch in Nuévalos (📷4).
Monasterio de Piedra near Nuévalos is a former monastery (now part ruin and part hotel) and Romantic landscaped park containing trees, waterfalls and caves along the Piedra River; this is Cascada la Caprichosa (📷1). The combination of Cascade Cola de Caballo (📷2) with Gruta Iris behind its curtain (📷3), reached via a staircase cut into the cliff, was easily the highlight. Some of the scenery was decidedly more tranquil, but no less dramatic (📷4). Visiting the ruin of Santa Maria de Piedra is included in the entry ticket; it was occupied by Cistercian monks from 1218 CE for 617 years, until confiscated by the Spanish Government in 1835 and coming into private ownership. Within the ruin there’s a museum about wine making and exhibit on the introduction of chocolate to Europe. Note that the site only reopened a year ago after severe flood damage in late 2024; it’s mass tourism-oriented, so an early start helps avoid the crowds.
Zaragoza
After leaving Nuévalos we enjoyed seeing semi-arid agricultural landscapes (📷1) before joining motorways bound for the metropolitan sprawl of Zaragoza. Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar is the city’s defining landmark, a huge baroque basilica with domes overlooking the Ebro, seen here behind 15th C. bridge of Puente de Piedra (📷2); the Romans had also bridged the Ebro here when the town was known as Caesaraugusta. The 11th C. Islamic Aljafería Palace is part of the Mudéjar Architecture of Aragón UNESCO listing (📷3); it was unfortunately closed for siesta when we arrived—having been caught out a few times by this already! La Seo Cathedral | Cathedral of the Saviour is also part of the UNESCO listing, being built atop the Roman forum and serving as a mosque—evident in its exterior Mudéjar wall (📷4)—before expansion as a Christian cathedral; the interior (€) mixes Romanesque, Gothic, Mudéjar, Renaissance and Baroque styles.
Los Monegros
The Ruta Jubierre | Jubierre track is an unpaved route that leads into the Barrancos de Jubierre, a badlands area within Aragón’s semi-arid Los Monegros region (it’s not technically a desert). We began from the southern end near the village of Castejón de Monegros, heading northward to exit onto the A-131 towards Sariñena. To visit Tozal Solitario, an isolated rock formation, we wisely left the van on the main track and walked to the formation (📷1). Tozal de Colásico is larger and can be seen without leaving the main track (📷2); you can also drive right up to it. Tozales de Los Pedregales is a collection of four eroded clay formations and ravines reached via a short but well-marked hike (📷3); this is formation no. 4. Tozal de la Cobeta is apparently the most photographed formation (📷4); we drove off the main track right up to this one, avoiding a hot 6km return hike. It took us ~3h to make the drive at ~30km/h max and to take short hikes to the formations. It had been dry so the dirt was very compacted and we had no concerns about clearance in our 2WD camper; we used the width of the road to avoid ruts and corrugations, as traffic was light. There was no avoiding the dust though!
Parque Natural Sierra y Cañones de Guara
The pretty but touristy village of Alquézar lies within Parque Natural Sierra y Cañones de Guara | Natural Park of the Sierra and Canyons of Guara; it’s crowned by Colegiata de Santa María la Mayor and Castillo Torre (📷1). The 6 € pp 3km Pasarelas de Alquézar descend from the ticket gate at the town hall into the adjacent Río Vero canyon, where we noted native Ramonda myconi | the Pyrenean violet in flower (📷2). We gained access to the clear-running river at Cueva Picamartillo (📷3) before taking the first of several gangways suspended over the riverbed (📷4).
Continuing in the pasarelas, the hand of man is evident in the canyon, with industrial remnants including a weir and canal that was part of a small hydroelectric plant completed in 1913 (📷1); it reused an old mill and today’s visitor trail began as service paths. The dramatic limestone canyon itself however is of natural karst geology and the metal gangways purpose-built for tourism (📷2). Aphyllanthes monspeliensis | the blue aphyllanthes is endemic to the western Mediterranean (📷3). A look back towards town from Mirador del Vero as a thunderstorm approaches; you can see more of the gangways on the riverside cliffs (📷4). This was a 6.3km/ 2h 20min loop walk from the campsite.
Our next hike in Parque Natural Sierra y Cañones de Guara was the S-3 Circular, anticlockwise, from the trailhead at Rodellar. We descended into Barranco del Mascún | the Mascún River gorge, noting rock climbers scaling sheer cliffs on both sides of the valley and gradually improving our view of the first of several rock windows we’d see on the trail (📷1). On reaching the riverbed we joined the Camino de Otín. There’s a nice view back to the window from near Surgencia de Mascún | the spring where Río Mascún stops being underground (📷2); shortly after the spring the intimidating Espolón de la Virgen via ferrata begins. Native Helianthemum apenninum | white rock-rose seemed to like living in the valley floor (📷3). We had views to Torre de Santiago for some time before reaching the formation (📷4).
Ascending the S-3 trail beside Torre de Santiago (📷1). We found the lengthy and uneven climb from the riverbed to Mirador del Mascún (📷2) rather tough, but greatly enjoyed ever-changing perspectives on the Torre. Native Polygala calcarea | the chalk milkwort favoured living at elevation (📷3). At the abandoned village of Otín we turned towards Dolmen de la Losa Mora, ~5,000 years old (📷4). The trail was less dramatic but pleasant, until we began the descent back to the Río Mascún via the Andrebot ravine—here the path was formed of loose limestone and slow-going (use poles to reduce tumble risk). From the spring we backtracked up to Rodellar. The loop over 15km took us 5.5h. At camp we checked in with “I need a place to sleep, a beer & a hot shower—in any order!”
Parque Natural Ordesa y Monte Perdido
Pradera de Ordesa (parking near Torla-Ordesa) to the Cola de Caballo waterfall is a popular out-and-back trail in Parque Natural Ordesa y Monte Perdido | Ordesa and Monte Perdido National Park. The Senda a la Cola de Caballo trail runs beside the Río Arazas, although the first section is under forest cover with limited views (📷1). After ~100min on trail things get more open and we found ourselves admiring spring greens next to clear mountain waters and impressive walls of rock in both downstream (📷2) and upstream (📷3) directions. The trail offers a number of waterfall waypoints, but they’re not all easy to see well due to vegetation overgrowth or flooded miradors; this is part of Gradas de Soaso, a sequence of steps (📷4).
After ~2h on trail the landscape changed again, to a bleaker grassy expanse as we got nearer to the head of the valley (📷1). Water streamed off the cliffs, forming rivulets that found their way to the river, although not before leaving the ground boggy in many places (📷2). Our first new flower of the day was a native in the daisy family, Tussilago farfara | the colt’s foot (📷3). At 9km/ 3h on trail we reached the signature Cascada Cola de Caballo | horse trail waterfall, which felt somewhat anticlimactic (📷4).
Our second new flower was native Narcissus pseudonarcissus | the wild daffodil, which seemed to favour growing within the protective cocoon offered by another (perfectly named) spiny native, Echinospartum horridum (📷1). Vultures circled overhead; we think we heard marmots whistling and the herd of native Rupicapra pyrenaica | Pyrenean chamois we’d seen on the way in had drawn closer to the river as we turned back (📷2). Cascada del Estrecho was our favourite waterfall; we detoured from the main path to its mirador on the return leg (📷3). Instead of rejoining the main path we crossed the river, which afforded new views en route to the parking area (📷4). 19km/ 5.5h return.
A scenic drive out of the mountains from pitch in Broto to the town of Barbastro, where chores awaited. Here’s the view from Mirador de Jánovas, between the villages of Fiscal and Boltaña (📷1). Embalse de Mediano contained stands of flooded trees (📷2) and the threat of rain made for moody reflections (📷3). Embalse de El Grado I, the neighbouring reservoir, was looking very emerald from the van door as we stopped for lunch.
Montfalcó
Despite some reports, the 15km from the N-230 to public parking at Montfalcó (near Viacamp) weren’t at all challenging in a 2WD, with mostly good surface—but narrow in places. Mirador de Montfalcó overlooks Pantà de Canelles | Embalse de Canelles, but also offered a first glimpse of the Noguera Ribagorzana river that divides Aragón’s Montsec de L’Estall to the west (left bank) from Catalonia’s Montsec d’Ares on the eastern shore (📷1). These karst escarpments are part of the outer mountains of the Central Pyrenees, formed from Cretaceous and Jurassic materials.
We’d come to hike the Camino Natural de Montfalcó al Congost de Mont-rebei | Natural Path from Montfalcó to the Congost de Mont-rebei. Here’s a view from the first pasarela | catwalk up a 30m escarpment, with 139 steps over 90m in length (📷2). The second pasarela is longer at 120m, with 215 steps ascending a 44m high escarpment (📷3). This is where you question how comfortable you are in the knowledge it was likely engineered by the lowest bidder… Sarcocapnos enneaphylla, native to southwestern Europe and northern Africa, is however quite at home on limestone escarpments (📷4).
From the second pasarela we could anticipate the upcoming descent to the suspension bridge spanning the 35m gap between Aragón and Catalonia (📷1). From said bridge at Congost del Seguer, looking into the gorge of Mont-rebei, we could readily appreciate the depth of canyon the river had cut here (📷2); the cliffs reach over 500m high. Camino Natural de Montfalcó al Congost de Mont-rebei ascends a short way on the Catalonian side to intersect the Camí de Mont-rebei, itself a segment of the long-distance GR-1 (Sendero Histórico). As we climbed to join it we got a good look back at the second pasarela we’d used on the opposite bank (📷3). We also looked down of course (the path is uneven here) and avoided trampling this big darkling beetle (📷4); Blaps lusitanica can release a foul-smelling secretion from glands at its rear when threatened.
Our original goal had been a mirador in the Mont-rebei Gorge, from which we could look back the way we had come (📷1) and also in the onward direction (📷2). Having met a Spanish couple who told us they were continuing in order to pick up a kayak and return by water, we decided to do the same. We thus continued beyond the mirador on Camí de Mont-rebei, a spectacular cliffside trail through the gorge known for its narrow path carved into rock walls above the river (📷3). After ~10km/ 3h 40min of hiking we arrived at a beach where, luckily, there was a spare double kayak available (we’d tried phoning, but had signal issues). Our 8km/ 1h 40min paddle back through the gorge (📷4) to a pier below Albergue de Montfalcó was followed by a 2km 4×4 transfer up the steep hill, where we paid for the rental—and our knees expressed their gratitude!
Muralla de Finestres
Roques de la Vila is a geological formation also popularly known as Muralla (China) de Finestres | the (Chinese) Wall Of Finestres. We followed online and local advice to park at Puente de Penavera, a bridge northeast of Estopiñán del Castillo, given the state of the dirt road. The 6.4km drive from our pitch in town took ~30 minutes. Although we sighted the formation ~4.5km into the hike, we first came to the former settlement of Finestres (📷1). It was depopulated in 1960 due to the filling of the Canelles reservoir; only one house, Casa Coix, is seasonally inhabited. A short and easy signposted walk links the village centre to Ermita de San Marcos | the Hermitage of Saint Mark; this is the best spot for panoramic views of the ~840m long formation (📷2). Folding of strata ~100 million years ago and subsequent erosion have created two primary parallel lines of vertical limestone that resemble a wall (📷3). Some of the formation is now partially submerged in the reservoir (📷4).
Between the two lines of strata sits the 11–12th C. Romanesque Esglèsia de Sant Vicenç | Ermita San Vicente | Church of Saint Vincent, seen here from the more challenging path to reach it (📷1); poles are useful. On this part of the hike you cross over one of the walls and reach water level, where we noted this particular slab, nicely illustrating the process of continuing erosion (📷2). The hermitage is partially formed from limestone and the sanctuary is largely intact (📷3); the remnants of Castillo de Finestras, a medieval Moorish castle upon which the hermitage was built, are also evident. From this vantage point there’s an impressive view down the middle of the formation (📷4). The 15km/ 4.5h return hike was mostly exposed.
After this hike it was farewell Aragón; it certainly made an impression and is an area we’d happily return to.
#2026 #aragón #camperVan #catalonia #europe #hiking #nationalPark #nature #nomad #roadTrip #romans #spain #travel #unesco #vanLife