#diodes — Public Fediverse posts

Après que nous avons #réalisé un #compteur #binaire avec deux #diodes #LED, une #jaune et une #rouge qui nous #compte de 0 à 3, #Electro-robot vous #propose de #compléter ce premier #circuit #séquentiel en ajoutant un #décodeur #BCD à base du #circuit #intégré #74LS48 et un #afficheur 7 #segments pour réaliser un #compteur #decimal au final. Alors on commence ?

https://electro-robot.com/les-activites/activite-de-decouverte-compteur-decimal-a-base-dun-decodeur-bcd-et-dun-afficheur-sept-segments

Alright, electrical engineer friends... I'm trying to figure out why my drawing tablet's display broke. I was able to pry it open, and found a cracked diode, but I can't identify it. A bit of searching makes me think it's a tvs diode, but I've no idea what it specifically is (or what an appropriate replacement might be). It looks like it's marked "XM", and I can't identify the logo beneath it (thought it was ST, but that doesn't match their logo)

#circuit #electricalcircuit #smd #diodes

#Connaissez-vous les #diodes ? Saviez-vous qu'une #diode est #composé de deux #dipôles : #l'anode et la #cathode et qu'elle ne #laisse #passer le #courant #électrique que dans un #seul #sens ? Alors quel est ce #sens de #circulation? dites-nous dans un #commentaire quel est ce #sens de #circulation et découvrez avec #electro-robot d'autres #types de #diodes telles que les #diodes à #Zener, les #diodes #LED, ...

https://electro-robot.com/electronique/composants/les-diodes

So after figuring out which bits to remove, I set about building it. I first tried laying it out on a single one of my custom #protoboards I posted about before. It gets very dense, and would require cutting / splitting a whole lot more of the 6-hole #pad #strips than I really wanted to do. So I built it on two boards, using the same modular connection between them that I use for the rest of my effects boards.

Even the original Boss pedal used 2 separate boards, so I don't feel too badly about it.

Anyway... it took a while to fiddle with the layouts to get something I like, then document my parts placement, remove all the parts and start re-populating and #soldering them into place. But I got that done this evening.

I did a little meter #probing of the results to find any obvious missing connections or such, and fixed a couple. Then I plugged in my guitar, and ...

It #worked, perfectly, the first time. I believe that's the first time any of my effects have not required any #debugging at all. I'm #chuffed .

And it sounds *fantastic*.

The originally-called-for #transistors and #diodes are mostly #obsolete and hard to find. I dug through datasheets to find ones I thought would (a) be acceptable substitutes, and (b) I already had in my parts bins. Frankly, given the nature of the effect, I doubt the selections are too critical, but I'll include what I used for completeness, in case anyone else wants to make one of these.

#maker #components #substitute

4/x

Here's another power project, it's actually a copy of something I posted a while back. It's another diode OR UPS, this time meant to power a Raspberry Pi (or something else that takes 5 volts).

I found some cheap adjustable #buck converters on Amazon. The idea is to step down 12 V nominal, either from another battery, a power supply, or perhaps a solar panel, to about 7 V or so - this is labeled Vbuck in the schematic. From there current can flow into the battery, a 6 V gel cell lead acid in this case, via D1 and Rch. It can also flow through D3 into the 7805 regulator, which puts out 5 volts. If the input power to the buck converter is taken away, power flows from the battery to the 7805 through D2.

It's dirt simple, and my intent is to keep the 6 volt battery floated. Basically, pick the float voltage you want (say 6.6 V), and add the diode drop to it. This is about what you set the output of the buck converter to. The resistor Rch is just there to limit the current in case the battery gets significantly discharged - once it hits the float voltage you want, very little current will flow. Pick a low end voltage, maybe 5.5 V, and set the resistor such that the voltage drop gives you the current you want: (7-0.4-5.5)/Rch

I just used a 3.9 ohm resistor since I had it. Don't forget to make sure it can take the power, but in my case it should be around a quarter of a watt (it's a 2 watt resistor). You can also bump the voltage up of the buck converter to get a little more current if you want some more granularity.

The key is to have a buck converter you can adjust. The diodes here are big for what I'm using them for, but I had a tube of them from past dumpster diving. You could probably come up with a better circuit, utilizing a specially-designed switching supply, but this is quick and dirty and should work.

I checked voltages tonight, but may get around to trying it with an actual Pi tomorrow.

#power #electronics #UPS #backup #RaspberryPi #diodes #DiodeOr #5v

Here's another power project, it's actually a copy of something I posted a while back. It's another diode OR UPS, this time meant to power a Raspberry Pi (or something else that takes 5 volts).

I found some cheap adjustable #buck converters on Amazon. The idea is to step down 12 V nominal, either from another battery, a power supply, or perhaps a solar panel, to about 7 V or so - this is labeled Vbuck in the schematic. From there current can flow into the battery, a 6 V gel cell lead acid in this case, via D1 and Rch. It can also flow through D3 into the 7805 regulator, which puts out 5 volts. If the input power to the buck converter is taken away, power flows from the battery to the 7805 through D2.

It's dirt simple, and my intent is to keep the 6 volt battery floated. Basically, pick the float voltage you want (say 6.6 V), and add the diode drop to it. This is about what you set the output of the buck converter to. The resistor Rch is just there to limit the current in case the battery gets significantly discharged - once it hits the float voltage you want, very little current will flow. Pick a low end voltage, maybe 5.5 V, and set the resistor such that the voltage drop gives you the current you want: (7-0.4-5.5)/Rch

I just used a 3.9 ohm resistor since I had it. Don't forget to make sure it can take the power, but in my case it should be around a quarter of a watt (it's a 2 watt resistor). You can also bump the voltage up of the buck converter to get a little more current if you want some more granularity.

The key is to have a buck converter you can adjust. The diodes here are big for what I'm using them for, but I had a tube of them from past dumpster diving. You could probably come up with a better circuit, utilizing a specially-designed switching supply, but this is quick and dirty and should work.

I checked voltages tonight, but may get around to trying it with an actual Pi tomorrow.

#power #electronics #UPS #backup #RaspberryPi #diodes #DiodeOr #5v

Here's another power project, it's actually a copy of something I posted a while back. It's another diode OR UPS, this time meant to power a Raspberry Pi (or something else that takes 5 volts).

I found some cheap adjustable #buck converters on Amazon. The idea is to step down 12 V nominal, either from another battery, a power supply, or perhaps a solar panel, to about 7 V or so - this is labeled Vbuck in the schematic. From there current can flow into the battery, a 6 V gel cell lead acid in this case, via D1 and Rch. It can also flow through D3 into the 7805 regulator, which puts out 5 volts. If the input power to the buck converter is taken away, power flows from the battery to the 7805 through D2.

It's dirt simple, and my intent is to keep the 6 volt battery floated. Basically, pick the float voltage you want (say 6.6 V), and add the diode drop to it. This is about what you set the output of the buck converter to. The resistor Rch is just there to limit the current in case the battery gets significantly discharged - once it hits the float voltage you want, very little current will flow. Pick a low end voltage, maybe 5.5 V, and set the resistor such that the voltage drop gives you the current you want: (7-0.4-5.5)/Rch

I just used a 3.9 ohm resistor since I had it. Don't forget to make sure it can take the power, but in my case it should be around a quarter of a watt (it's a 2 watt resistor). You can also bump the voltage up of the buck converter to get a little more current if you want some more granularity.

The key is to have a buck converter you can adjust. The diodes here are big for what I'm using them for, but I had a tube of them from past dumpster diving. You could probably come up with a better circuit, utilizing a specially-designed switching supply, but this is quick and dirty and should work.

I checked voltages tonight, but may get around to trying it with an actual Pi tomorrow.

#power #electronics #UPS #backup #RaspberryPi #diodes #DiodeOr #5v

Here's another power project, it's actually a copy of something I posted a while back. It's another diode OR UPS, this time meant to power a Raspberry Pi (or something else that takes 5 volts).

I found some cheap adjustable #buck converters on Amazon. The idea is to step down 12 V nominal, either from another battery, a power supply, or perhaps a solar panel, to about 7 V or so - this is labeled Vbuck in the schematic. From there current can flow into the battery, a 6 V gel cell lead acid in this case, via D1 and Rch. It can also flow through D3 into the 7805 regulator, which puts out 5 volts. If the input power to the buck converter is taken away, power flows from the battery to the 7805 through D2.

It's dirt simple, and my intent is to keep the 6 volt battery floated. Basically, pick the float voltage you want (say 6.6 V), and add the diode drop to it. This is about what you set the output of the buck converter to. The resistor Rch is just there to limit the current in case the battery gets significantly discharged - once it hits the float voltage you want, very little current will flow. Pick a low end voltage, maybe 5.5 V, and set the resistor such that the voltage drop gives you the current you want: (7-0.4-5.5)/Rch

I just used a 3.9 ohm resistor since I had it. Don't forget to make sure it can take the power, but in my case it should be around a quarter of a watt (it's a 2 watt resistor). You can also bump the voltage up of the buck converter to get a little more current if you want some more granularity.

The key is to have a buck converter you can adjust. The diodes here are big for what I'm using them for, but I had a tube of them from past dumpster diving. You could probably come up with a better circuit, utilizing a specially-designed switching supply, but this is quick and dirty and should work.

I checked voltages tonight, but may get around to trying it with an actual Pi tomorrow.

#power #electronics #UPS #backup #RaspberryPi #diodes #DiodeOr #5v

Here's another power project, it's actually a copy of something I posted a while back. It's another diode OR UPS, this time meant to power a Raspberry Pi (or something else that takes 5 volts).

I found some cheap adjustable #buck converters on Amazon. The idea is to step down 12 V nominal, either from another battery, a power supply, or perhaps a solar panel, to about 7 V or so - this is labeled Vbuck in the schematic. From there current can flow into the battery, a 6 V gel cell lead acid in this case, via D1 and Rch. It can also flow through D3 into the 7805 regulator, which puts out 5 volts. If the input power to the buck converter is taken away, power flows from the battery to the 7805 through D2.

It's dirt simple, and my intent is to keep the 6 volt battery floated. Basically, pick the float voltage you want (say 6.6 V), and add the diode drop to it. This is about what you set the output of the buck converter to. The resistor Rch is just there to limit the current in case the battery gets significantly discharged - once it hits the float voltage you want, very little current will flow. Pick a low end voltage, maybe 5.5 V, and set the resistor such that the voltage drop gives you the current you want: (7-0.4-5.5)/Rch

I just used a 3.9 ohm resistor since I had it. Don't forget to make sure it can take the power, but in my case it should be around a quarter of a watt (it's a 2 watt resistor). You can also bump the voltage up of the buck converter to get a little more current if you want some more granularity.

The key is to have a buck converter you can adjust. The diodes here are big for what I'm using them for, but I had a tube of them from past dumpster diving. You could probably come up with a better circuit, utilizing a specially-designed switching supply, but this is quick and dirty and should work.

I checked voltages tonight, but may get around to trying it with an actual Pi tomorrow.

#power #electronics #UPS #backup #RaspberryPi #diodes #DiodeOr #5v

Les opérateurs de RansomExx diffusent des données relatives à :

• 🇹🇼 [5.15GiB] Walsin Technology Corporation, Ltd. (walsin.com)

The world's leading manufacturer of passive components with one-stop-shop product portfolio and worldwide delivery platform. The company's product lineup includes multiple-layer ceramic chip (MLCC) capacitor/array, chip-resistor/array & networks, RF . Walsin Technology Corporation, membre de l'alliance Passive Systems Alliance Taiwan, est une société taïwanaise dont l'activité principale est la fabrication, le traitement et la vente de condensateurs multicouches à puces céramiques (MLCC), de résistances à puces, de dispositifs à haute fréquence (HF) et de dispositifs à radiofréquence.

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Inputs of Interest: ErgoDox Post-Mortem - In the last installment, I told you I was building an open-source, split, ortholinear keyboard calle... more: https://hackaday.com/2020/06/02/inputs-of-interest-ergodox-post-mortem/ #mechnicalkeyboard #peripheralshacks #mistakesweremade #hackadaycolumns #classichacks #smdsoldering #diykeyboard #keyboard #ergodox #diodes #trrs