#5v — Public Fediverse posts
Live and recent posts from across the Fediverse tagged #5v, aggregated by home.social.
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Ask Hackaday: Why is TTL 5 Volts? - The familiar five volts standard from back in the TTL days always struck me as odd... - https://hackaday.com/2025/10/08/ask-hackaday-why-is-ttl-5-volts/ #hackadaycolumns #standards #history #5v
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Ask Hackaday: Why is TTL 5 Volts? - The familiar five volts standard from back in the TTL days always struck me as odd... - https://hackaday.com/2025/10/08/ask-hackaday-why-is-ttl-5-volts/ #hackadaycolumns #standards #history #5v
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Ask Hackaday: Why is TTL 5 Volts? - The familiar five volts standard from back in the TTL days always struck me as odd... - https://hackaday.com/2025/10/08/ask-hackaday-why-is-ttl-5-volts/ #hackadaycolumns #standards #history #5v
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Ask Hackaday: Why is TTL 5 Volts? - The familiar five volts standard from back in the TTL days always struck me as odd... - https://hackaday.com/2025/10/08/ask-hackaday-why-is-ttl-5-volts/ #hackadaycolumns #standards #history #5v
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Ask Hackaday: Why is TTL 5 Volts? - The familiar five volts standard from back in the TTL days always struck me as odd... - https://hackaday.com/2025/10/08/ask-hackaday-why-is-ttl-5-volts/ #hackadaycolumns #standards #history #5v
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Here's another power project, it's actually a copy of something I posted a while back. It's another diode OR UPS, this time meant to power a Raspberry Pi (or something else that takes 5 volts).
I found some cheap adjustable #buck converters on Amazon. The idea is to step down 12 V nominal, either from another battery, a power supply, or perhaps a solar panel, to about 7 V or so - this is labeled Vbuck in the schematic. From there current can flow into the battery, a 6 V gel cell lead acid in this case, via D1 and Rch. It can also flow through D3 into the 7805 regulator, which puts out 5 volts. If the input power to the buck converter is taken away, power flows from the battery to the 7805 through D2.
It's dirt simple, and my intent is to keep the 6 volt battery floated. Basically, pick the float voltage you want (say 6.6 V), and add the diode drop to it. This is about what you set the output of the buck converter to. The resistor Rch is just there to limit the current in case the battery gets significantly discharged - once it hits the float voltage you want, very little current will flow. Pick a low end voltage, maybe 5.5 V, and set the resistor such that the voltage drop gives you the current you want: (7-0.4-5.5)/Rch
I just used a 3.9 ohm resistor since I had it. Don't forget to make sure it can take the power, but in my case it should be around a quarter of a watt (it's a 2 watt resistor). You can also bump the voltage up of the buck converter to get a little more current if you want some more granularity.
The key is to have a buck converter you can adjust. The diodes here are big for what I'm using them for, but I had a tube of them from past dumpster diving. You could probably come up with a better circuit, utilizing a specially-designed switching supply, but this is quick and dirty and should work.
I checked voltages tonight, but may get around to trying it with an actual Pi tomorrow.
#power #electronics #UPS #backup #RaspberryPi #diodes #DiodeOr #5v
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Here's another power project, it's actually a copy of something I posted a while back. It's another diode OR UPS, this time meant to power a Raspberry Pi (or something else that takes 5 volts).
I found some cheap adjustable #buck converters on Amazon. The idea is to step down 12 V nominal, either from another battery, a power supply, or perhaps a solar panel, to about 7 V or so - this is labeled Vbuck in the schematic. From there current can flow into the battery, a 6 V gel cell lead acid in this case, via D1 and Rch. It can also flow through D3 into the 7805 regulator, which puts out 5 volts. If the input power to the buck converter is taken away, power flows from the battery to the 7805 through D2.
It's dirt simple, and my intent is to keep the 6 volt battery floated. Basically, pick the float voltage you want (say 6.6 V), and add the diode drop to it. This is about what you set the output of the buck converter to. The resistor Rch is just there to limit the current in case the battery gets significantly discharged - once it hits the float voltage you want, very little current will flow. Pick a low end voltage, maybe 5.5 V, and set the resistor such that the voltage drop gives you the current you want: (7-0.4-5.5)/Rch
I just used a 3.9 ohm resistor since I had it. Don't forget to make sure it can take the power, but in my case it should be around a quarter of a watt (it's a 2 watt resistor). You can also bump the voltage up of the buck converter to get a little more current if you want some more granularity.
The key is to have a buck converter you can adjust. The diodes here are big for what I'm using them for, but I had a tube of them from past dumpster diving. You could probably come up with a better circuit, utilizing a specially-designed switching supply, but this is quick and dirty and should work.
I checked voltages tonight, but may get around to trying it with an actual Pi tomorrow.
#power #electronics #UPS #backup #RaspberryPi #diodes #DiodeOr #5v
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Here's another power project, it's actually a copy of something I posted a while back. It's another diode OR UPS, this time meant to power a Raspberry Pi (or something else that takes 5 volts).
I found some cheap adjustable #buck converters on Amazon. The idea is to step down 12 V nominal, either from another battery, a power supply, or perhaps a solar panel, to about 7 V or so - this is labeled Vbuck in the schematic. From there current can flow into the battery, a 6 V gel cell lead acid in this case, via D1 and Rch. It can also flow through D3 into the 7805 regulator, which puts out 5 volts. If the input power to the buck converter is taken away, power flows from the battery to the 7805 through D2.
It's dirt simple, and my intent is to keep the 6 volt battery floated. Basically, pick the float voltage you want (say 6.6 V), and add the diode drop to it. This is about what you set the output of the buck converter to. The resistor Rch is just there to limit the current in case the battery gets significantly discharged - once it hits the float voltage you want, very little current will flow. Pick a low end voltage, maybe 5.5 V, and set the resistor such that the voltage drop gives you the current you want: (7-0.4-5.5)/Rch
I just used a 3.9 ohm resistor since I had it. Don't forget to make sure it can take the power, but in my case it should be around a quarter of a watt (it's a 2 watt resistor). You can also bump the voltage up of the buck converter to get a little more current if you want some more granularity.
The key is to have a buck converter you can adjust. The diodes here are big for what I'm using them for, but I had a tube of them from past dumpster diving. You could probably come up with a better circuit, utilizing a specially-designed switching supply, but this is quick and dirty and should work.
I checked voltages tonight, but may get around to trying it with an actual Pi tomorrow.
#power #electronics #UPS #backup #RaspberryPi #diodes #DiodeOr #5v
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Here's another power project, it's actually a copy of something I posted a while back. It's another diode OR UPS, this time meant to power a Raspberry Pi (or something else that takes 5 volts).
I found some cheap adjustable #buck converters on Amazon. The idea is to step down 12 V nominal, either from another battery, a power supply, or perhaps a solar panel, to about 7 V or so - this is labeled Vbuck in the schematic. From there current can flow into the battery, a 6 V gel cell lead acid in this case, via D1 and Rch. It can also flow through D3 into the 7805 regulator, which puts out 5 volts. If the input power to the buck converter is taken away, power flows from the battery to the 7805 through D2.
It's dirt simple, and my intent is to keep the 6 volt battery floated. Basically, pick the float voltage you want (say 6.6 V), and add the diode drop to it. This is about what you set the output of the buck converter to. The resistor Rch is just there to limit the current in case the battery gets significantly discharged - once it hits the float voltage you want, very little current will flow. Pick a low end voltage, maybe 5.5 V, and set the resistor such that the voltage drop gives you the current you want: (7-0.4-5.5)/Rch
I just used a 3.9 ohm resistor since I had it. Don't forget to make sure it can take the power, but in my case it should be around a quarter of a watt (it's a 2 watt resistor). You can also bump the voltage up of the buck converter to get a little more current if you want some more granularity.
The key is to have a buck converter you can adjust. The diodes here are big for what I'm using them for, but I had a tube of them from past dumpster diving. You could probably come up with a better circuit, utilizing a specially-designed switching supply, but this is quick and dirty and should work.
I checked voltages tonight, but may get around to trying it with an actual Pi tomorrow.
#power #electronics #UPS #backup #RaspberryPi #diodes #DiodeOr #5v
-
Here's another power project, it's actually a copy of something I posted a while back. It's another diode OR UPS, this time meant to power a Raspberry Pi (or something else that takes 5 volts).
I found some cheap adjustable #buck converters on Amazon. The idea is to step down 12 V nominal, either from another battery, a power supply, or perhaps a solar panel, to about 7 V or so - this is labeled Vbuck in the schematic. From there current can flow into the battery, a 6 V gel cell lead acid in this case, via D1 and Rch. It can also flow through D3 into the 7805 regulator, which puts out 5 volts. If the input power to the buck converter is taken away, power flows from the battery to the 7805 through D2.
It's dirt simple, and my intent is to keep the 6 volt battery floated. Basically, pick the float voltage you want (say 6.6 V), and add the diode drop to it. This is about what you set the output of the buck converter to. The resistor Rch is just there to limit the current in case the battery gets significantly discharged - once it hits the float voltage you want, very little current will flow. Pick a low end voltage, maybe 5.5 V, and set the resistor such that the voltage drop gives you the current you want: (7-0.4-5.5)/Rch
I just used a 3.9 ohm resistor since I had it. Don't forget to make sure it can take the power, but in my case it should be around a quarter of a watt (it's a 2 watt resistor). You can also bump the voltage up of the buck converter to get a little more current if you want some more granularity.
The key is to have a buck converter you can adjust. The diodes here are big for what I'm using them for, but I had a tube of them from past dumpster diving. You could probably come up with a better circuit, utilizing a specially-designed switching supply, but this is quick and dirty and should work.
I checked voltages tonight, but may get around to trying it with an actual Pi tomorrow.
#power #electronics #UPS #backup #RaspberryPi #diodes #DiodeOr #5v
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The #BigEar status bar has ears! (Actually just a speaker for now, but room for a microphone if we want.) Featuring the newest part of my fancy #openscad lamp system.
#esphome #esp32 #wled #lamp #statusbar #snarkhome #homeassistant #5v
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The #BigEar status bar has ears! (Actually just a speaker for now, but room for a microphone if we want.) Featuring the newest part of my fancy #openscad lamp system.
#esphome #esp32 #wled #lamp #statusbar #snarkhome #homeassistant #5v
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The #BigEar status bar has ears! (Actually just a speaker for now, but room for a microphone if we want.) Featuring the newest part of my fancy #openscad lamp system.
#esphome #esp32 #wled #lamp #statusbar #snarkhome #homeassistant #5v
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The #BigEar status bar has ears! (Actually just a speaker for now, but room for a microphone if we want.) Featuring the newest part of my fancy #openscad lamp system.
#esphome #esp32 #wled #lamp #statusbar #snarkhome #homeassistant #5v
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I have...... concerns about these #5v power supplies.
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I have...... concerns about these #5v power supplies.
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I have...... concerns about these #5v power supplies.
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I have...... concerns about these #5v power supplies.
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I have...... concerns about these #5v power supplies.
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Yesterday I managed to turn #esphome into a #wled knockoff. (Part of my #lamp system.) If anyone else is considering it, let me gently suggest No. It *technically works*, which is the worst kind of works.
Overlapping segments are great (really!) and way more reliable than switching presets, but that is where it stops. Mostly when wled Just Does, esphome+fastled Just Doesn't.
If you were hoping to piggyback additional capabilities, you should also know that 22 LEDs in pairs (plus "all") leaves about 9% free flash. This is not enough for audio, or most sensors. And of course control suffers.
That said, don't forget that every #ledstrip is also a #5v supply and there are no rules against putting multiple magic shards in a single object..
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Yesterday I managed to turn #esphome into a #wled knockoff. (Part of my #lamp system.) If anyone else is considering it, let me gently suggest No. It *technically works*, which is the worst kind of works.
Overlapping segments are great (really!) and way more reliable than switching presets, but that is where it stops. Mostly when wled Just Does, esphome+fastled Just Doesn't.
If you were hoping to piggyback additional capabilities, you should also know that 22 LEDs in pairs (plus "all") leaves about 9% free flash. This is not enough for audio, or most sensors. And of course control suffers.
That said, don't forget that every #ledstrip is also a #5v supply and there are no rules against putting multiple magic shards in a single object..
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Yesterday I managed to turn #esphome into a #wled knockoff. (Part of my #lamp system.) If anyone else is considering it, let me gently suggest No. It *technically works*, which is the worst kind of works.
Overlapping segments are great (really!) and way more reliable than switching presets, but that is where it stops. Mostly when wled Just Does, esphome+fastled Just Doesn't.
If you were hoping to piggyback additional capabilities, you should also know that 22 LEDs in pairs (plus "all") leaves about 9% free flash. This is not enough for audio, or most sensors. And of course control suffers.
That said, don't forget that every #ledstrip is also a #5v supply and there are no rules against putting multiple magic shards in a single object..
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Yesterday I managed to turn #esphome into a #wled knockoff. (Part of my #lamp system.) If anyone else is considering it, let me gently suggest No. It *technically works*, which is the worst kind of works.
Overlapping segments are great (really!) and way more reliable than switching presets, but that is where it stops. Mostly when wled Just Does, esphome+fastled Just Doesn't.
If you were hoping to piggyback additional capabilities, you should also know that 22 LEDs in pairs (plus "all") leaves about 9% free flash. This is not enough for audio, or most sensors. And of course control suffers.
That said, don't forget that every #ledstrip is also a #5v supply and there are no rules against putting multiple magic shards in a single object..
-
Yesterday I managed to turn #esphome into a #wled knockoff. (Part of my #lamp system.) If anyone else is considering it, let me gently suggest No. It *technically works*, which is the worst kind of works.
Overlapping segments are great (really!) and way more reliable than switching presets, but that is where it stops. Mostly when wled Just Does, esphome+fastled Just Doesn't.
If you were hoping to piggyback additional capabilities, you should also know that 22 LEDs in pairs (plus "all") leaves about 9% free flash. This is not enough for audio, or most sensors. And of course control suffers.
That said, don't forget that every #ledstrip is also a #5v supply and there are no rules against putting multiple magic shards in a single object..
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For anyone keeping score at home, I went to grab a screenshot for the above response and discovered that the #esphome #esp32cam sensor hung up an hour earlier and needed a power cycle.
I guess today's project is rigging up a better #5v supply and adding some #homeassistant stale data #notifications. (This specific unit is not part of the #camera adventure because it has a busted latch on the ribbon connector.)
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For anyone keeping score at home, I went to grab a screenshot for the above response and discovered that the #esphome #esp32cam sensor hung up an hour earlier and needed a power cycle.
I guess today's project is rigging up a better #5v supply and adding some #homeassistant stale data #notifications. (This specific unit is not part of the #camera adventure because it has a busted latch on the ribbon connector.)
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For anyone keeping score at home, I went to grab a screenshot for the above response and discovered that the #esphome #esp32cam sensor hung up an hour earlier and needed a power cycle.
I guess today's project is rigging up a better #5v supply and adding some #homeassistant stale data #notifications. (This specific unit is not part of the #camera adventure because it has a busted latch on the ribbon connector.)
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For anyone keeping score at home, I went to grab a screenshot for the above response and discovered that the #esphome #esp32cam sensor hung up an hour earlier and needed a power cycle.
I guess today's project is rigging up a better #5v supply and adding some #homeassistant stale data #notifications. (This specific unit is not part of the #camera adventure because it has a busted latch on the ribbon connector.)
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For anyone keeping score at home, I went to grab a screenshot for the above response and discovered that the #esphome #esp32cam sensor hung up an hour earlier and needed a power cycle.
I guess today's project is rigging up a better #5v supply and adding some #homeassistant stale data #notifications. (This specific unit is not part of the #camera adventure because it has a busted latch on the ribbon connector.)
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USB Power Has Never Been Easier - USB cables inevitably fail and sometimes one end is reincarnated to power our sold... - https://hackaday.com/2022/01/05/usb-power-has-never-been-easier/ #3dprinterhacks #prototyping #connectors #toolhacks #3dprinted #powerbank #hardware #testlead #dupont #power #5vdc #usb #5v
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Stepping Down Voltage with Reliability - The availability of inexpensive electronics modules has opened up a world of opportunity for more ... - https://hackaday.com/2021/01/13/stepping-down-voltage-with-reliability/ #roboticsbrno #powersupply #reliability #hardware #robotics #3.3v #pcb #5v
