#magicsmoke — Public Fediverse posts
Live and recent posts from across the Fediverse tagged #magicsmoke, aggregated by home.social.
-
NEMA 6-15 plug to NEMA 5-15 socket adapter.
I see no possible way this could go wrong.
-
NEMA 6-15 plug to NEMA 5-15 socket adapter.
I see no possible way this could go wrong.
-
NEMA 6-15 plug to NEMA 5-15 socket adapter.
I see no possible way this could go wrong.
-
NEMA 6-15 plug to NEMA 5-15 socket adapter.
I see no possible way this could go wrong.
-
NEMA 6-15 plug to NEMA 5-15 socket adapter.
I see no possible way this could go wrong.
-
A while back I got a new digital 'scope. The one I'd been using was okay, but only 8-bit and had some other limitations. The vertical resolution was actually starting to make it difficult to get accurate-enough readings of some things I was working with.
The new one is 12-bit. That is likely to be better than I will ever need. I'm happy with it. Being several years newer (and a different brand) it brings some new #features to the table.
One is that you can use it as a digital logic analyzer - it can sample a whole lot of inputs (rather than just 4 analog channels) quickly if it only has to tell on from off. But you have to get a whole lot of #signals into the #scope before you can do that, so you need a #connector with a lot of pins/signals.
You could use something standard for this type of application (which is still going to be a limited-audience part), or a custom thing, but those options are expensive. So instead, if you're the manufacturer, you find a common (and therefore #cheap) #connector with lots of #pins, and you re-use that. Done and dusted!
They picked ... the HDMI connector. It's there at the bottom of the middle of the control panel. And in the manual is the prominent (not) warning:
> WARNING: Non-standard HDMI interface, Siglent device ONLY, or you will damage your device.
Yes, if you plug anything HDMI-related into this obvious #HDMI port, you will cause damage to your 'scope, or your other device.
-
A while back I got a new digital 'scope. The one I'd been using was okay, but only 8-bit and had some other limitations. The vertical resolution was actually starting to make it difficult to get accurate-enough readings of some things I was working with.
The new one is 12-bit. That is likely to be better than I will ever need. I'm happy with it. Being several years newer (and a different brand) it brings some new #features to the table.
One is that you can use it as a digital logic analyzer - it can sample a whole lot of inputs (rather than just 4 analog channels) quickly if it only has to tell on from off. But you have to get a whole lot of #signals into the #scope before you can do that, so you need a #connector with a lot of pins/signals.
You could use something standard for this type of application (which is still going to be a limited-audience part), or a custom thing, but those options are expensive. So instead, if you're the manufacturer, you find a common (and therefore #cheap) #connector with lots of #pins, and you re-use that. Done and dusted!
They picked ... the HDMI connector. It's there at the bottom of the middle of the control panel. And in the manual is the prominent (not) warning:
> WARNING: Non-standard HDMI interface, Siglent device ONLY, or you will damage your device.
Yes, if you plug anything HDMI-related into this obvious #HDMI port, you will cause damage to your 'scope, or your other device.
-
A while back I got a new digital 'scope. The one I'd been using was okay, but only 8-bit and had some other limitations. The vertical resolution was actually starting to make it difficult to get accurate-enough readings of some things I was working with.
The new one is 12-bit. That is likely to be better than I will ever need. I'm happy with it. Being several years newer (and a different brand) it brings some new #features to the table.
One is that you can use it as a digital logic analyzer - it can sample a whole lot of inputs (rather than just 4 analog channels) quickly if it only has to tell on from off. But you have to get a whole lot of #signals into the #scope before you can do that, so you need a #connector with a lot of pins/signals.
You could use something standard for this type of application (which is still going to be a limited-audience part), or a custom thing, but those options are expensive. So instead, if you're the manufacturer, you find a common (and therefore #cheap) #connector with lots of #pins, and you re-use that. Done and dusted!
They picked ... the HDMI connector. It's there at the bottom of the middle of the control panel. And in the manual is the prominent (not) warning:
> WARNING: Non-standard HDMI interface, Siglent device ONLY, or you will damage your device.
Yes, if you plug anything HDMI-related into this obvious #HDMI port, you will cause damage to your 'scope, or your other device.
-
A while back I got a new digital 'scope. The one I'd been using was okay, but only 8-bit and had some other limitations. The vertical resolution was actually starting to make it difficult to get accurate-enough readings of some things I was working with.
The new one is 12-bit. That is likely to be better than I will ever need. I'm happy with it. Being several years newer (and a different brand) it brings some new #features to the table.
One is that you can use it as a digital logic analyzer - it can sample a whole lot of inputs (rather than just 4 analog channels) quickly if it only has to tell on from off. But you have to get a whole lot of #signals into the #scope before you can do that, so you need a #connector with a lot of pins/signals.
You could use something standard for this type of application (which is still going to be a limited-audience part), or a custom thing, but those options are expensive. So instead, if you're the manufacturer, you find a common (and therefore #cheap) #connector with lots of #pins, and you re-use that. Done and dusted!
They picked ... the HDMI connector. It's there at the bottom of the middle of the control panel. And in the manual is the prominent (not) warning:
> WARNING: Non-standard HDMI interface, Siglent device ONLY, or you will damage your device.
Yes, if you plug anything HDMI-related into this obvious #HDMI port, you will cause damage to your 'scope, or your other device.
-
A while back I got a new digital 'scope. The one I'd been using was okay, but only 8-bit and had some other limitations. The vertical resolution was actually starting to make it difficult to get accurate-enough readings of some things I was working with.
The new one is 12-bit. That is likely to be better than I will ever need. I'm happy with it. Being several years newer (and a different brand) it brings some new #features to the table.
One is that you can use it as a digital logic analyzer - it can sample a whole lot of inputs (rather than just 4 analog channels) quickly if it only has to tell on from off. But you have to get a whole lot of #signals into the #scope before you can do that, so you need a #connector with a lot of pins/signals.
You could use something standard for this type of application (which is still going to be a limited-audience part), or a custom thing, but those options are expensive. So instead, if you're the manufacturer, you find a common (and therefore #cheap) #connector with lots of #pins, and you re-use that. Done and dusted!
They picked ... the HDMI connector. It's there at the bottom of the middle of the control panel. And in the manual is the prominent (not) warning:
> WARNING: Non-standard HDMI interface, Siglent device ONLY, or you will damage your device.
Yes, if you plug anything HDMI-related into this obvious #HDMI port, you will cause damage to your 'scope, or your other device.
-
welp something sure disintegrated itself
that's F501 next to it and i can just make out F50-something under the ashes
F is fuse
fuse go kablooey
which means something else is still shorted
fun
the mobo isn't short anymore so the problem gotta be on this itty bitty power supply
-
welp something sure disintegrated itself
that's F501 next to it and i can just make out F50-something under the ashes
F is fuse
fuse go kablooey
which means something else is still shorted
fun
the mobo isn't short anymore so the problem gotta be on this itty bitty power supply
-
welp something sure disintegrated itself
that's F501 next to it and i can just make out F50-something under the ashes
F is fuse
fuse go kablooey
which means something else is still shorted
fun
the mobo isn't short anymore so the problem gotta be on this itty bitty power supply
-
welp something sure disintegrated itself
that's F501 next to it and i can just make out F50-something under the ashes
F is fuse
fuse go kablooey
which means something else is still shorted
fun
the mobo isn't short anymore so the problem gotta be on this itty bitty power supply
-
why is posting photos so slooooow is the internet melting down
got this Compaq LTE 386s/20 as a repair challenge, would be perfect to run Citadel-86
power brick appears to work, 30v on two pins
plug it in to the laptop, the light flashes and you can hear it start and shut down, oh yeah that's a short
lets get it apart
sum magic smoke let out by the battery
-
why is posting photos so slooooow is the internet melting down
got this Compaq LTE 386s/20 as a repair challenge, would be perfect to run Citadel-86
power brick appears to work, 30v on two pins
plug it in to the laptop, the light flashes and you can hear it start and shut down, oh yeah that's a short
lets get it apart
sum magic smoke let out by the battery
-
why is posting photos so slooooow is the internet melting down
got this Compaq LTE 386s/20 as a repair challenge, would be perfect to run Citadel-86
power brick appears to work, 30v on two pins
plug it in to the laptop, the light flashes and you can hear it start and shut down, oh yeah that's a short
lets get it apart
sum magic smoke let out by the battery
-
why is posting photos so slooooow is the internet melting down
got this Compaq LTE 386s/20 as a repair challenge, would be perfect to run Citadel-86
power brick appears to work, 30v on two pins
plug it in to the laptop, the light flashes and you can hear it start and shut down, oh yeah that's a short
lets get it apart
sum magic smoke let out by the battery
-
So I had - past tense - one of those cheap but incredibly useful and surprisingly capable MCU-based component testers. You know the ones - they cost about twenty bucks, can identify virtually any 2- or 3-terminal device you stick in their (usually ZIF) socket, as well as telling you things like which leads are gate/source/drain, base/collector/emitter, anode/cathode, or whatever else you might want to know about a lot of electronic components.
Absent-mindedly put an electrolytic capacitor into it tonight without discharging it. Had about 22 volts in it... hence, one ex-tester. I let the magic smoke out, without actually releasing any smoke or smell.
Oops.
#electronics #hobby #MagicSmoke #oops #ComponentTester #LCR #LCRMeter #component #transistor
-
So I had - past tense - one of those cheap but incredibly useful and surprisingly capable MCU-based component testers. You know the ones - they cost about twenty bucks, can identify virtually any 2- or 3-terminal device you stick in their (usually ZIF) socket, as well as telling you things like which leads are gate/source/drain, base/collector/emitter, anode/cathode, or whatever else you might want to know about a lot of electronic components.
Absent-mindedly put an electrolytic capacitor into it tonight without discharging it. Had about 22 volts in it... hence, one ex-tester. I let the magic smoke out, without actually releasing any smoke or smell.
Oops.
#electronics #hobby #MagicSmoke #oops #ComponentTester #LCR #LCRMeter #component #transistor
-
So I had - past tense - one of those cheap but incredibly useful and surprisingly capable MCU-based component testers. You know the ones - they cost about twenty bucks, can identify virtually any 2- or 3-terminal device you stick in their (usually ZIF) socket, as well as telling you things like which leads are gate/source/drain, base/collector/emitter, anode/cathode, or whatever else you might want to know about a lot of electronic components.
Absent-mindedly put an electrolytic capacitor into it tonight without discharging it. Had about 22 volts in it... hence, one ex-tester. I let the magic smoke out, without actually releasing any smoke or smell.
Oops.
#electronics #hobby #MagicSmoke #oops #ComponentTester #LCR #LCRMeter #component #transistor
-
So I had - past tense - one of those cheap but incredibly useful and surprisingly capable MCU-based component testers. You know the ones - they cost about twenty bucks, can identify virtually any 2- or 3-terminal device you stick in their (usually ZIF) socket, as well as telling you things like which leads are gate/source/drain, base/collector/emitter, anode/cathode, or whatever else you might want to know about a lot of electronic components.
Absent-mindedly put an electrolytic capacitor into it tonight without discharging it. Had about 22 volts in it... hence, one ex-tester. I let the magic smoke out, without actually releasing any smoke or smell.
Oops.
#electronics #hobby #MagicSmoke #oops #ComponentTester #LCR #LCRMeter #component #transistor
-
So I had - past tense - one of those cheap but incredibly useful and surprisingly capable MCU-based component testers. You know the ones - they cost about twenty bucks, can identify virtually any 2- or 3-terminal device you stick in their (usually ZIF) socket, as well as telling you things like which leads are gate/source/drain, base/collector/emitter, anode/cathode, or whatever else you might want to know about a lot of electronic components.
Absent-mindedly put an electrolytic capacitor into it tonight without discharging it. Had about 22 volts in it... hence, one ex-tester. I let the magic smoke out, without actually releasing any smoke or smell.
Oops.
#electronics #hobby #MagicSmoke #oops #ComponentTester #LCR #LCRMeter #component #transistor
-
Fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuck.#retrocomputing #mac #magicsmoke #quadra700
-
Fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuck.#retrocomputing #mac #magicsmoke #quadra700
-
Fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuck.#retrocomputing #mac #magicsmoke #quadra700
-
Fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuck.#retrocomputing #mac #magicsmoke #quadra700
-
YW 😉
Indeed, connecting something labelled "NC" to ... well, anything ... will, under ideal conditions, do nothing. Under more realistic conditions you can expect misbehaviour or worse, up to and including releasing the magic smoke in a violent manner.
If the manufacturer wants you to tie unused pins to ground, or Vcc, or something else, they'll tell you explicitly in the datasheet. They definitely won't label them "NC" ... in a correct datasheet, anyways.
-
YW 😉
Indeed, connecting something labelled "NC" to ... well, anything ... will, under ideal conditions, do nothing. Under more realistic conditions you can expect misbehaviour or worse, up to and including releasing the magic smoke in a violent manner.
If the manufacturer wants you to tie unused pins to ground, or Vcc, or something else, they'll tell you explicitly in the datasheet. They definitely won't label them "NC" ... in a correct datasheet, anyways.
-
YW 😉
Indeed, connecting something labelled "NC" to ... well, anything ... will, under ideal conditions, do nothing. Under more realistic conditions you can expect misbehaviour or worse, up to and including releasing the magic smoke in a violent manner.
If the manufacturer wants you to tie unused pins to ground, or Vcc, or something else, they'll tell you explicitly in the datasheet. They definitely won't label them "NC" ... in a correct datasheet, anyways.
-
YW 😉
Indeed, connecting something labelled "NC" to ... well, anything ... will, under ideal conditions, do nothing. Under more realistic conditions you can expect misbehaviour or worse, up to and including releasing the magic smoke in a violent manner.
If the manufacturer wants you to tie unused pins to ground, or Vcc, or something else, they'll tell you explicitly in the datasheet. They definitely won't label them "NC" ... in a correct datasheet, anyways.
-
Okay Mastodon let's see if you can help.
I have this TPS560430 DC/DC buck which now has blown up twice on similar boards.In both cases the failure occurred when plugging in to a live 24V 2A source. It appears the DC/DC has some kind of latch up and catches fire. Downstream of the buck is a TVS which is used for protecting some I/O ports, an STM32 and a few bits and pieces.
For a temporary workaround I've placed a 100R resistor between the 24V supply and the TPS560430, but I'm not sure of the cause and whether this resistor would help. It's also going to affect stability of the buck especially under load.
Anyone have an idea where I'm going wrong?
-
Okay Mastodon let's see if you can help.
I have this TPS560430 DC/DC buck which now has blown up twice on similar boards.In both cases the failure occurred when plugging in to a live 24V 2A source. It appears the DC/DC has some kind of latch up and catches fire. Downstream of the buck is a TVS which is used for protecting some I/O ports, an STM32 and a few bits and pieces.
For a temporary workaround I've placed a 100R resistor between the 24V supply and the TPS560430, but I'm not sure of the cause and whether this resistor would help. It's also going to affect stability of the buck especially under load.
Anyone have an idea where I'm going wrong?
-
Okay Mastodon let's see if you can help.
I have this TPS560430 DC/DC buck which now has blown up twice on similar boards.In both cases the failure occurred when plugging in to a live 24V 2A source. It appears the DC/DC has some kind of latch up and catches fire. Downstream of the buck is a TVS which is used for protecting some I/O ports, an STM32 and a few bits and pieces.
For a temporary workaround I've placed a 100R resistor between the 24V supply and the TPS560430, but I'm not sure of the cause and whether this resistor would help. It's also going to affect stability of the buck especially under load.
Anyone have an idea where I'm going wrong?
-
Okay Mastodon let's see if you can help.
I have this TPS560430 DC/DC buck which now has blown up twice on similar boards.In both cases the failure occurred when plugging in to a live 24V 2A source. It appears the DC/DC has some kind of latch up and catches fire. Downstream of the buck is a TVS which is used for protecting some I/O ports, an STM32 and a few bits and pieces.
For a temporary workaround I've placed a 100R resistor between the 24V supply and the TPS560430, but I'm not sure of the cause and whether this resistor would help. It's also going to affect stability of the buck especially under load.
Anyone have an idea where I'm going wrong?
-
Okay Mastodon let's see if you can help.
I have this TPS560430 DC/DC buck which now has blown up twice on similar boards.In both cases the failure occurred when plugging in to a live 24V 2A source. It appears the DC/DC has some kind of latch up and catches fire. Downstream of the buck is a TVS which is used for protecting some I/O ports, an STM32 and a few bits and pieces.
For a temporary workaround I've placed a 100R resistor between the 24V supply and the TPS560430, but I'm not sure of the cause and whether this resistor would help. It's also going to affect stability of the buck especially under load.
Anyone have an idea where I'm going wrong?
-
When the repair is unsuccessful and you let the magic smoke out...
#aiart #scifi #fanart #photography #alien #cyberpunk #fail #hitech #mecha #photorealistic #robot #spiderbot #unlucky #magicsmoke
-
When the repair is unsuccessful and you let the magic smoke out...
#aiart #scifi #fanart #photography #alien #cyberpunk #fail #hitech #mecha #photorealistic #robot #spiderbot #unlucky #magicsmoke
-
When the repair is unsuccessful and you let the magic smoke out...
#aiart #scifi #fanart #photography #alien #cyberpunk #fail #hitech #mecha #photorealistic #robot #spiderbot #unlucky #magicsmoke
-
When the repair is unsuccessful and you let the magic smoke out...
#aiart #scifi #fanart #photography #alien #cyberpunk #fail #hitech #mecha #photorealistic #robot #spiderbot #unlucky #magicsmoke
-
Wir haben einen neuen Sticker "Powered by Magic Smoke" und das tolle: Kostenlos für euch! Gleich zuschlagen, nur so lange der Vorrat reicht ;)
https://shop.blinkyparts.com/de/Blinkyparts-Logo-Sticker-10er-Pack-Powered-by-Magic-Smoke/blink23168
#PoweredByMagicSmoke #LötenVerbindet #solderingconnects #magicSmoke
-
Wir haben einen neuen Sticker "Powered by Magic Smoke" und das tolle: Kostenlos für euch! Gleich zuschlagen, nur so lange der Vorrat reicht ;)
https://shop.blinkyparts.com/de/Blinkyparts-Logo-Sticker-10er-Pack-Powered-by-Magic-Smoke/blink23168
#PoweredByMagicSmoke #LötenVerbindet #solderingconnects #magicSmoke
-
Wir haben einen neuen Sticker "Powered by Magic Smoke" und das tolle: Kostenlos für euch! Gleich zuschlagen, nur so lange der Vorrat reicht ;)
https://shop.blinkyparts.com/de/Blinkyparts-Logo-Sticker-10er-Pack-Powered-by-Magic-Smoke/blink23168
#PoweredByMagicSmoke #LötenVerbindet #solderingconnects #magicSmoke
-
Wir haben einen neuen Sticker "Powered by Magic Smoke" und das tolle: Kostenlos für euch! Gleich zuschlagen, nur so lange der Vorrat reicht ;)
https://shop.blinkyparts.com/de/Blinkyparts-Logo-Sticker-10er-Pack-Powered-by-Magic-Smoke/blink23168
#PoweredByMagicSmoke #LötenVerbindet #solderingconnects #magicSmoke
-
Wir haben einen neuen Sticker "Powered by Magic Smoke" und das tolle: Kostenlos für euch! Gleich zuschlagen, nur so lange der Vorrat reicht ;)
https://shop.blinkyparts.com/de/Blinkyparts-Logo-Sticker-10er-Pack-Powered-by-Magic-Smoke/blink23168
#PoweredByMagicSmoke #LötenVerbindet #solderingconnects #magicSmoke
-
No, I didn't solder a very clearly marked polarized electrolytic capacitor backwards across the power rails of my project board tonight, causing it to smell funny, emit a loud POP, and spit its guts across the room.
Not that you can prove, anyway.
#electronics #MagicSmoke #electrolytic #polarized #soldering #oops
-
No, I didn't solder a very clearly marked polarized electrolytic capacitor backwards across the power rails of my project board tonight, causing it to smell funny, emit a loud POP, and spit its guts across the room.
Not that you can prove, anyway.
#electronics #MagicSmoke #electrolytic #polarized #soldering #oops
-
No, I didn't solder a very clearly marked polarized electrolytic capacitor backwards across the power rails of my project board tonight, causing it to smell funny, emit a loud POP, and spit its guts across the room.
Not that you can prove, anyway.
#electronics #MagicSmoke #electrolytic #polarized #soldering #oops
-
No, I didn't solder a very clearly marked polarized electrolytic capacitor backwards across the power rails of my project board tonight, causing it to smell funny, emit a loud POP, and spit its guts across the room.
Not that you can prove, anyway.
#electronics #MagicSmoke #electrolytic #polarized #soldering #oops
-
No, I didn't solder a very clearly marked polarized electrolytic capacitor backwards across the power rails of my project board tonight, causing it to smell funny, emit a loud POP, and spit its guts across the room.
Not that you can prove, anyway.
#electronics #MagicSmoke #electrolytic #polarized #soldering #oops