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It's still much better to add "smarts" to the TV manually. It's a much better experience, it gets updates for longer, it performs better, etc.
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Turns out, they can key it in manually and this works fine - for anyone else who has this issue
#passportcard
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#ferry -
Turns out, they can key it in manually and this works fine - for anyone else who has this issue
#passportcard
#flixbus
#ferry -
Turns out, they can key it in manually and this works fine - for anyone else who has this issue
#passportcard
#flixbus
#ferry -
Manually give the state a little push to get the CA rolling. .
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Manually give the state a little push to get the CA rolling. .
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Manually give the state a little push to get the CA rolling. .
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Manually give the state a little push to get the CA rolling. .
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Manually give the state a little push to get the CA rolling. .
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https://t.me/warriorsukrainian/111263
⛔️🇧🇾Belarus attacks Ukraine by Participating And Aiding Terrorists, Again: Russia could have once again used relays in Belarus to manually control the Shahed, which attacked a gas station in the Zhytomyr region today, — Defense Minister's advisor Flash. Drone moved along the Belarusian border to Korosten, after (more) #Ukraine #Press #Media #News #Headlines #russiaUkraineWar
#Latvia #Lithuania #12yrInvasionOfUkraine #RussiansAreBabyKillers #Belarus #Minsk -
https://t.me/warriorsukrainian/111263
⛔️🇧🇾Belarus attacks Ukraine by Participating And Aiding Terrorists, Again: Russia could have once again used relays in Belarus to manually control the Shahed, which attacked a gas station in the Zhytomyr region today, — Defense Minister's advisor Flash. Drone moved along the Belarusian border to Korosten, after (more) #Ukraine #Press #Media #News #Headlines #russiaUkraineWar
#Latvia #Lithuania #12yrInvasionOfUkraine #RussiansAreBabyKillers #Belarus #Minsk -
The Breville Barista Touch Impress
Article The Product Box Shot Pull from the Barista Touch Impress Correct Dose Styrofoam Live Temperatures Touch the Screen to Grind Bean Hopper Accessories Barista Touch Impress on the Bar Front View Blind Filter Touch Impress Drip Tray-1 Screen Details Burr Closeup Top Cup Plate Double Wall Filters? Cappuccino Build Coffee Ground, PF in Shot Progression Oh... double wall filters 54mm Portafilter Almost There Hot Water Lever System Cradle Insider the Impress Tamper Drip Tray Design Tray in Place Inside the Tray Insert the Hopper Sticky Tape Water Filter System Brewing a Cappuccino Single Power Button Water Hardness Burr Housing Whereto Buy Manufacturer Website Buy from Supplier Buy from Amazon (US) Buy here to support CoffeeGeek! Buy from Amazon (CA) Buy here to support CoffeeGeek! Buy from 1st in Coffee CoffeeGeek Sponsor! coffeegeek advertisers make this website possible.
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The Barista Touch Impress arrives in a substantial, glossy retail box. Inside, however, the machine is secured by large, fitted blocks of styrofoam. This is somewhat disappointing, as Breville has already demonstrated a much better approach with its newest releases. Their latest machines, like the Oracle Jet, now ship in plain brown boxes, using fully recyclable, form-moulded cardboard inserts to protect the machine during transit. It’s an eco-friendly philosophy we hope to see across their entire product line.
The product box follows Breville's Design language for about 20 years (but one they've changed since). The box is full of painted colour graphics and photos detailing the machine's abilities. This is a fairly big, heavy machine, so it's best to open it on the ground, and possibly with the help of a friend. As you can see, there's a ton of information overload on the box. Definitely designed for department store shelves. All that horrible styrofoam. But hey, there's some stuff - the manual, portafilter and water filter! Breville has 3 different "levels" of 54mm portafilters, in terms of quality. This is the top quality one. The machine comes with four filter baskets, which is a bit weird because of course you're going to use the built in grinder; only the single wall baskets are necessary, right? This is the Claris system which is one of the better ones used by espresso machine makers. This machine comes with almost everything you'd need. Only thing missing is a knockbox (only the flagship machines have that option included) Ahh, that's why it comes with the crema-cheater double wall filters - use those if you're using super stale coffee!Once unboxed and on the counter, the machine has a significant presence. Its aesthetic borrows the softer, curving lines from the more expensive Oracle Touch, distinguishing it from the angular, utilitarian form of the classic Barista Express, a design philosophy Breville has continued with its latest flagship, the Oracle Jet. The softer curves are not just for looks; they also make the machine easier to wipe down compared to the sharper corners of the Express. The fingerprint-resistant brushed stainless steel gives it a solid, high-end appliance feel.
A tour from top to bottom reveals a series of practical design choices. The bean hopper is generously proportioned with a wider diameter than previous Barista models, allowing it to comfortably hold a full 340 gram (12 ounce) bag of coffee. A twist-to-lock mechanism seals the hopper’s base for mess-free bean swaps.
This is not a small machine, so it's best to have a second person helping you. If not, slide it out sideways on the floor. That amount of styrofoam makes me eco-heart bleed a bit. Do better, Breville! I didn't even know the machine was sideways until I removed half the styrofoam (there's so much of it). But look at all the accessories! Almost there and unwrapped - all the accessories, and more plastics. All unwrapped (still some sticky tape to remove), and you get a sense of all the stuff that comes with this machine. No knockbox though, that's reserved for the flagship machines only. Double wall filters? Oh yeah - look at the graphics: they are for people who use grocery store / costco coffee. Lots of sticky tape on the machine to hold down various parts. Remove it all. The top plate on this machine seems to be plastic, which is a bit different from other models.Hidden beneath this hopper is a significant internal hardware upgrade: a set of Baratza’s M2 conical burrs, precision-milled by the European firm Etzinger. This is a notable component, as it is the same burr set found in dedicated grinders like the Baratza Encore ESP Pro. For the user, this means the potential for a more consistent grind particle size, a key factor in improving the taste of the final espresso shot.
At the rear of the unit, the 2 litre (68 fluid ounce) water reservoir is designed for easy access. It can be filled in place or removed entirely using its sturdy handle. It incorporates both a magnetized low-water sensor and Breville’s integrated charcoal filter system. This filtration benefits flavour and machine longevity by reducing scale buildup.
Still features the adjustable burr system Breville's had for decades now, but it does have the M2 Baratza Burrs A closeup of the M2 bottom cone burr. The hopper is a newer design, wider, but also squatter, to fit under more cupboards. Not stepless like the new Oracle Jet is, but still a nice system. The reservoir design has that neat flippy lid thing, and a built in handle for removing entirely and filling at the sink. Don't fill at the sink. The only button on the entire machine, and one of only three physical touch points (the other two being the lever, and the grind setting dial).The front of the machine is starkly minimal. Aside from a single, backlit power button, all user interactions are channelled through the large, vibrant colour touchscreen. This approach looks clean, but it also means every function, even a simple group flush, requires interacting with the screen, which can be less immediate than a physical button.
Below this screen is the main workspace, organized into three zones: the integrated grinding and tamping station on the left, the 54mm grouphead in the centre, and the automatic steam wand and hot water tap on the right.
The star of the left side is the “Impress” tamping system, activated by a large, mechanical side lever that provides satisfying, tactile feedback. On the right, the steam wand itself has a more robust, multi-part construction that feels more premium than those on other Barista line machines. The high-polish stainless steel backsplash looks sharp but is a fingerprint and splash magnet that requires frequent cleaning.
The Touch Impress when powered down. Very minimalist, with one visible touch point. Inside the Impress Tamper housing, you can see the tamper is at a 90 degree angle when not in use. This allows coffee to fall into the portafilter from the grinder. The Bean Hopper holds 12oz, and has a tight sealing lid. The PF is Breville's top of the line 54mm, with upgraded handle, all stainless steel. Shots still curl a bit from the spouts. The portafilter slots nicely into the Impress cradle, and the machine registers its insertion. The lever on the side is easy to use and gives good tactile feedback. The hot water tap comes from the back left of the grouphead, and aims water right into the centre of a cup on the tray. This is the nib that registers the temperature being read off the steam pitcher's surface.It might sound odd to positive-focus on a drip tray, but I have to give Breville credit here. I’ve handled the trays on nearly $10,000 prosumer machines that feel like flimsy, cheap afterthoughts (yeah, looking at you La Marzocco). By contrast, this one is robust and exceptionally well-finished. Pulling the entire unit out reveals the hidden accessory storage inside. It’s a great spot for stashing less-used items like the backflush disk, single basket, or cleaning tablets.
The included accessory kit is comprehensive. You receive four filter baskets (two single-wall for fresh coffee, two double-wall for pre-ground), a quality 480 ml (16 ounce) stainless steel milk pitcher, the water filter assembly, and a full suite of cleaning supplies. A standalone tamper is notably absent, as its services have been made null and void by the machine’s internal tamping system. Weirdly, the machine does come with Breville’s Razor tool, which seems a bit redundant. And the multitool for cleaning the steam wand doesn’t actually fit the new steam wand on this machine (for removal of the tip, at least).
The top plate of the drip tray is well made, intricate, and very inexpensive to replace (take that, La Marzocco). Sliding out the Drip Tray reveals a staple of many Breville machines: a hidden accessories drawer! More details on the tray - under the metal grid is this plastic underlay which catches stray grinds, and organizes the way the tray works overall. When first unpacking, there's a little box inside the accessories tray. Among the included accessories, is this blind filter insert, to be used with the single shot double wall basket. Breville includes the Razor with this machine which is a bit... weird, considering this is an auto dosing, assisted tamping machine. There's also this multitool which is used to clean and remove the steam wand tip, and other parts of the machine. Problem is, its removal tool doesn't fit the Touch Impress' new steam wand. The tray in place, does the job and looks great.Dimensionally, the unit measures 36 cm wide, 34 cm deep, and 41.5 cm tall (14.2 x 13.4 x 16.3 inches). It feels planted and secure on the counter, thanks to excellent high-grip rubber feet that prevent it from sliding when locking in the portafilter.
The Touch Impress, placed on our demo bar, even before removing the faux sticker on the front screen. Connect with us on Social Media MastodonInstagramFacebook-f Search coffeegeek advertisers make this website possible.
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Breville clearly wants you to get started on the Touch Impress without ever opening the manual, and to their credit, they make that easy. The moment you press the power button, the touchscreen lights up with a soft chime and begins guiding you through setup like a friendly assistant. It feels more like setting up a phone or tablet than an espresso machine, but it works.
The machine starts by asking a few practical questions. It wants to know what kind of milk you use, so it can adjust its frothing routine for dairy, oat, soy, or almond milk. Then it has you test your water hardness with a small strip and enter the result. From that, it automatically sets up reminders for descaling, which helps protect the machine from scale buildup and keeps the coffee tasting consistent. It is clear this product was designed for people who want good results without thinking about maintenance.
The first time (and every time) you start up the machine, you see this pretty latte art and hear a chime. Setting the date and time, for the machine to have its automatic functions. The machine walks you through an initial setup. The machine shows you all the accessories that come with the BBTI. Next comes the water hardness test, which you can skip (really, don't skip this). Use this to measure the water out of your sink, not the filtered water in the machine. Compare the results with what you see on screen. The machine is now priming itself, and filling in some water to the thermojet and lines. Water being flushed through the steam wand, automatically. The machine volunteers to give you a few tutorials to get you familiar with the BBTI and all it can do.Once setup is done, you are ready to make your first drink. You pick a beverage from the touchscreen, lock the portafilter into the cradle, and tap the grind icon. The machine doses automatically, and when the grinding stops, you pull the large side lever. It feels solid and mechanical, almost like pulling a gear shift. The Impress tamping system presses the coffee with even pressure and finishes with a small polishing twist, leaving a clean, level puck. For anyone who has tamped unevenly in the past, this part is genuinely satisfying.
The smart dosing feature looks for a target puck height rather than a specific weight. If the height is too low, the screen prompts you to grind a little more. Once the correct level is reached, the machine remembers that dose for next time. It is a simple but clever way to help beginners achieve consistency without using a separate scale.
The grind setting itself is still adjusted manually using the dial on the side, but the machine gives feedback after each shot. It times the extraction and then suggests whether to go finer or coarser next time. It is not magic, but it saves new users from guessing blindly.
Breville advertises its ThermoJet heating system as ready in three seconds, and technically that is true. The water is hot almost instantly. The problem is that the grouphead and portafilter are still cold, and if you brew right away, the shot will come out sour and under-extracted. The solution is to run a blank shot first to preheat the metal parts, which works fine, but the process is slower than it should be. You have to dig through the drink menu on the touchscreen every time to do this. A simple flush grouphead button on the main screen would make a big difference.
Once properly preheated, the espresso from the Touch Impress is quite good (bordering on world class at times), but its real strength is its relentless consistency. After dialing it in, I was pulling nearly identical shots time after time using the timing and yield weights from CoffeeGeek’s standard espresso machine test parameters (we could not set the initial dose weight; relying instead on the machine’s preset volumes). FYI, that formula is 18.5g in, 45g yield, in around 25-30 seconds (without preinfusion) or 35-40 seconds with preinfusion.
Here’s the process in action.
Insert the portafilter into the grinder cradle. The machine is aware of the positioning. Touch the screen to start the coffee grinding. After tamping with the lever on the side, the machine registers the bed height and gives you a green bar and checkbox to say it's all good. Here's how the bed of coffee looks after dosing the correct amount and tamping with the side lever. The machine's display shows you how to correctly insert the portafilter. At this point you'd hit the brew button that shows up next. The shot begins. The double shot continues, developing nicely and with proper timing on the extraction, which the machine is registering. The shot is nearing completion. Again, the machine is also timing the shot on screen, and keeps track of the volume brewed.For most people, however, the real star of the show will be the Auto MilQ system. You’re essentially outsourcing the tricky skill of milk texturing and accurate temperatures to the machine. You just fill the pitcher, place it on the sensor, and tell the machine what you’re making. The result is a fine, pourable microfoam that it handles well even with non-dairy milks. For anyone buying this machine primarily for lattes and cappuccinos, this is arguably the feature that seals the deal.
The BBTI also lets you queue up the entire process in one go. Prep your portafilter, fill the milk pitcher, and place both in their respective places in the machine. Hit the shot button on screen, and also tap the steam milk icon right after. The machine will pull the shot, then immediately transition the Thermojet to steam mode, and automatically start steaming. You can come back about a minute later to find a nicely pulled shot and a pitcher of microfrothed milk waiting for your always-improving latte art skills. It even finishes by politely reminding you to wipe the steam wand, so it can even handle the nagging for you.
Brewing any milk based drinks with the Touch Impress is a "set and forget" kind of thing. Once the coffee's ground and tamped, insert the portafilter into the machine. Before starting the shot, fill your pitcher with cold milk and also place that in its spot, sitting on the temperature sensor nub. Hit the brew shot button to start the shot pull. As soon as the shot starts, hit the steam pitcher image on the screen to queue up the milk steaming. The BBTI lets you know the milk operation is now queued, ready to go as soon as the shot pull ends. The espresso brewing with the Touch Impress. The shot ends (37 sec!) and now the machine is heating up the thermocoil for 2 to 3 seconds before starting the steaming process. While auto frothing and steaming, the display gives a sort-of-live temperature display (it lags behind real time by about 2-4 seconds). The machine even reminds you to wipe down the wand after use.Unfortunately, the hot water function is deeply frustrating for Americano drinkers. One has to question if the Breville engineers even drink Americanos or Mistos. The automated settings are nonsensical for traditional recipes; the smallest preset dispenses 130 ml of water (a double shot needs only 90 ml), and you cannot stop it early. To add insult to injury, the water is a tepid 63°C (147°F). It’s a baffling design flaw.
What makes this flaw worse is that the Touch Impress cannot receive firmware updates. There is no Wi-Fi connection or USB port for new software. Whatever version the machine ships with is the one you will have for its entire life. For a product that depends so much on software, this feels like a huge swing and a miss.
Despite these annoyances, using the Touch Impress day to day is decently enjoyable. It is fast, intuitive, and clean to operate. You can stumble into the kitchen half-awake, tap a few icons, and end up with an espresso or cappuccino that looks and tastes a thousand percent better than what you would get from a capsule machine. Heck, it’ll probably be better than most cafés these days.
It is not made for people who want to learn the craft of espresso, but for anyone who wants café-level drinks with minimal effort, it comes surprisingly close.
Building a cappuccino, automatically, on the Barista Touch Impress. Connect with us on Social Media MastodonInstagramFacebook-f Search coffeegeek advertisers make this website possible.
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want to reach a global specialty coffee audience? advertise with us.The Barista Touch Impress sits in a crowded field of machines that aim to blend traditional espresso mechanics with heavy digital assistance. They attempt to deliver a full bean-to-cup experience without requiring separate components like a standalone grinder, but this integration often comes with its own trade-offs. Its most direct competitors are found both within Breville’s own lineup and from other established brands.
Breville Barista Express Impress
The Express Impress is based on the Barista Express, with the assisted tamping system built in. It doesn't have drink recipes, and will not automatically froth your milk. But it is a great little machine with excellent, repeatable grinding and dosing.Its closest and most obvious point of comparison is its direct sibling, the Breville Barista Express Impress. This machine is the analog, more hands-on version of the same core concept. It features the same “Impress” intelligent dosing and assisted tamping system. However, the user experience diverges sharply from that point forward.
The Express Impress uses an older, slower-to-heat thermocoil system. While slower, it has the advantage of heating the entire machine, including the grouphead, for better temperature stability on the first shot. This is unlike the Touch Impress, whose fast Thermojet only heats the water, leaving the brewing components cold. The Express Impress is also controlled by an array of physical buttons and dials. It features a prominent pressure gauge, which provides visual feedback that can be useful for users interested in learning about extraction. The process of manually steaming milk, while requiring practice, also offers a higher ceiling for control over texturing for latte art. For many, the lower price point ($799.95 USD / $1,149.95 CAD) will be a deciding factor. (nb, as of this writing (Oct 15, 2025), it is on sale in Canada for just $900, making it an extraordinary value)
Breville Oracle Jet
The Oracle Jet (on the right) during our heavy head to head testing against the Ninja Luxe Cafe Premier machine. The Jet also comes with a very nice knock box, about a $40 value, and has OTA updates.Moving up the Breville hierarchy is the new Breville Oracle Jet. Priced at $2,000 USD ($2,999CAD, currently on sale for $2400CAD), it is positioned as a more advanced machine. For the $500 price difference over the Barista Touch Impress, the Jet includes several key hardware and software differences.
The Oracle Jet is built around a commercial-style 58mm portafilter and grouphead, allowing for larger, more traditional espresso doses up to 22g. Its tamping system is fully automated and internal, requiring no lever pulling from the user. It comes with a very nice and upgraded knock box, and the Jet’s completely new grinder has stepless adjustments for more precise control.
Crucially, the Jet also features a dual Thermojet heating system, with one dedicated to rapidly heating the grouphead, directly addressing the Touch Impress’s issue with cold-start temperature stability. Most importantly, the Oracle Jet is the first Breville machine with internet connectivity, allowing for Over-the-Air (OTA) firmware updates, a massive advantage.
While both machines feature the same automated MilQ system, the Jet’s superior hardware and updatable software make it a more advanced machine. At full retail price, the Oracle Jet’s upgrades may justify the extra $500 investment. However, the decision becomes much more difficult when the Barista Touch Impress is found on sale, as its value proposition increases significantly.
De’Longhi La Specialista Maestro
De'Longhi's flagship is their shot across the bow against Breville's highly automated espresso machines. We haven't formally tested this model, but did have a few hours' work with one.Outside the Breville ecosystem, a strong competitor is the De’Longhi La Specialista Maestro, which competes at a similar price point of $1,299.95 USD (often on sale for $1000), and $1899.99 in Canada (often on sale for $1500). This machine targets the same user with a different technological approach. It also integrates a grinder with an assisted “Smart Tamping Station” to ensure a level, consistently tamped puck without the mess of loose grounds.
It uses a dual heating system for rapid transitions between brewing and steaming and offers two separate milk systems. It has both a manual, pro-style steam wand for users who want to practice latte art and a separate, fully automatic “LatteCrema” system for one-touch convenience. This combination of features offers a flexibility that will appeal to some buyers.
Ninja Cafe Luxe Pro
The Luxe Cafe Pro offers an incredible bang for your espresso buck. Longevity may be a concern, especially with getting after warranty service.Finally, a noteworthy budget competitor is the Ninja Café Luxe Pro. Priced around $750 USD (prices are up because of the Trump Tax), and $900 Canadian (a better deal these days because of the USA tariff nonsense) it’s roughly half the cost of the BBTI. For that price, it also offers an integrated grinder, a lever-based tamping system, and a hands-free automated milk frother. It even includes a wider array of drink options, from ristretto and lungo to larger brewed coffees.
This feature parity is notable, but there are key trade-offs to consider. Ninja is a recent entrant into the espresso market, compared to Breville’s decades-long track record. The Ninja’s versatility is also accessed via a complex, button-driven interface, which contrasts with the single, guided touchscreen on the Barista Touch Impress. Differences in component quality, such as the BBTI’s premium Baratza burrs, also likely account for the price gap.
At full retail, the price difference is stark. However, the Barista Touch Impress is occasionally on sale, sometimes as low as $1000USD. This narrows the gap considerably, shifting the decision from one of pure budget to a choice between the BBTI’s user experience and the Ninja’s button-based functionality.
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want to reach a global specialty coffee audience? advertise with us.Conclusion
After a few weeks with the BBTI, a clear picture is emerging. Let’s be clear: this machine isn’t a tool for the aspiring artist. It’s a high-end appliance for those who want a great result without serving an apprenticeship.
If you want to graduate from capsules for better espresso but are intimidated by the learning curve of a traditional setup, this machine is for you. It delivers on its core promise: providing repeatable high-grade espresso shots and a high level of automated milk frothing, especially for non-dairy milks.
But this convenience comes at a price, and not just the monetary one. In exchange for the automation, you give up a lot of granular control. This isn’t just about tweaking for fun; it’s about the ability to adapt to different beans or correct a shot that’s pulling too fast or slow, a capability the machine deliberately abstracts from the user. You also have to live with its quirks, like the mandatory pre-heating and the poorly designed hot water function.
At its full retail price of $1,499.95 USD ($2,149.95 CAD), its value proposition is complicated. For $500 more, Breville’s own Oracle Jet offers significant upgrades like a 58mm portafilter and OTA firmware updates. Meanwhile, competitors like the Ninja Café Luxe Pro offer a surprisingly similar automated feature set for roughly half the price.
The value of the Barista Touch Impress hinges heavily on the times Breville puts it on sale. It is occasionally discounted, sometimes dropping as low as $1,000 USD retail. At that price, it becomes a much more compelling middle ground, offering a more premium build and user interface than the Ninja without the steep cost of the Oracle Jet.
This is our First Look. The real test is how this complex piece of technology holds up over the long haul. Will the software remain snappy? Will the automated systems prove reliable? We’ll be putting this machine through a comprehensive, long-term review to answer those questions and more.
In the meantime, if you own one or are on the fence, we want to hear from you. What has your experience been? Let us know in the comments below.
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Connect with us on Social Media MastodonInstagramFacebook-f Search#BaristaTouchImpress #Breville #espressoMachine #firstLook #homeEspresso
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*manually measures pulse of plague guy, then realizes it makes no sense, stands up*
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Since a few days now, #Fedora40 and #dnf does not run dracut after installing a kernel. So kernel and stuff end up in /boot, but no initramfs, hence kernel panic at boot-up (it still makes the new kernel the default, meh).
This now happened for the second time, it started with 6.11.11-200.fc40.x86_64 and now happened again with 6.12.4-100.fc40.x86_64. /boot is not full.
Logfiles were not helpful, no obvious errors, and dnf doesn't complain. Manually running dracut helps tho.
Anyone else?
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Since a few days now, #Fedora40 and #dnf does not run dracut after installing a kernel. So kernel and stuff end up in /boot, but no initramfs, hence kernel panic at boot-up (it still makes the new kernel the default, meh).
This now happened for the second time, it started with 6.11.11-200.fc40.x86_64 and now happened again with 6.12.4-100.fc40.x86_64. /boot is not full.
Logfiles were not helpful, no obvious errors, and dnf doesn't complain. Manually running dracut helps tho.
Anyone else?
-
Since a few days now, #Fedora40 and #dnf does not run dracut after installing a kernel. So kernel and stuff end up in /boot, but no initramfs, hence kernel panic at boot-up (it still makes the new kernel the default, meh).
This now happened for the second time, it started with 6.11.11-200.fc40.x86_64 and now happened again with 6.12.4-100.fc40.x86_64. /boot is not full.
Logfiles were not helpful, no obvious errors, and dnf doesn't complain. Manually running dracut helps tho.
Anyone else?
-
Since a few days now, #Fedora40 and #dnf does not run dracut after installing a kernel. So kernel and stuff end up in /boot, but no initramfs, hence kernel panic at boot-up (it still makes the new kernel the default, meh).
This now happened for the second time, it started with 6.11.11-200.fc40.x86_64 and now happened again with 6.12.4-100.fc40.x86_64. /boot is not full.
Logfiles were not helpful, no obvious errors, and dnf doesn't complain. Manually running dracut helps tho.
Anyone else?
-
Since a few days now, #Fedora40 and #dnf does not run dracut after installing a kernel. So kernel and stuff end up in /boot, but no initramfs, hence kernel panic at boot-up (it still makes the new kernel the default, meh).
This now happened for the second time, it started with 6.11.11-200.fc40.x86_64 and now happened again with 6.12.4-100.fc40.x86_64. /boot is not full.
Logfiles were not helpful, no obvious errors, and dnf doesn't complain. Manually running dracut helps tho.
Anyone else?
-
Our goal: help city hall’s employees spend less time manually integrating data ⏱️ and more time making informed decisions for residents. 👥
Huge thanks to Bydgoszcz and Kielce Technology Park for supporting us!
Our work is financed from the #EUFunds through the Technopark Kielce Startup Booster Poland organized by the Kielce Technology Park. #EuropeanFunds
Total cost of project: 403 054,73 PLN
Contribution from the European Funds: 399 348,94 PLNPhoto: Mariusz Guć, CC-BY-SA 4.0
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Our goal: help city hall’s employees spend less time manually integrating data ⏱️ and more time making informed decisions for residents. 👥
Huge thanks to Bydgoszcz and Kielce Technology Park for supporting us!
Our work is financed from the #EUFunds through the Technopark Kielce Startup Booster Poland organized by the Kielce Technology Park. #EuropeanFunds
Total cost of project: 403 054,73 PLN
Contribution from the European Funds: 399 348,94 PLNPhoto: Mariusz Guć, CC-BY-SA 4.0
-
Our goal: help city hall’s employees spend less time manually integrating data ⏱️ and more time making informed decisions for residents. 👥
Huge thanks to Bydgoszcz and Kielce Technology Park for supporting us!
Our work is financed from the #EUFunds through the Technopark Kielce Startup Booster Poland organized by the Kielce Technology Park. #EuropeanFunds
Total cost of project: 403 054,73 PLN
Contribution from the European Funds: 399 348,94 PLNPhoto: Mariusz Guć, CC-BY-SA 4.0
-
Baratza Introduces the Encore ESP Pro Grinder
Baratza has just introduced their latest consumer grinder, the Encore ESP Pro, marking a big shift in their lineup. With this release, Baratza is sunsetting the Virtuoso series, streamlining their offerings into four main families: Encore, Vario, Sette, and Forte. More importantly, the Encore ESP Pro brings a wave of high-end features that reflect where consumer expectations for grinders are heading in 2025. When released, the Encore ESP Pro will have a retail price of $300USD ($299.95).
In many ways, the Encore ESP Pro replaces the Virtuoso and Virtuoso+ models by blending their legacy into the Encore line, becoming an upgrade choice compared to the Encore ESP grinder. But it goes further than that. This isn’t just an upgrade; it’s a leap forward. The ESP Pro includes a suite of pro-level features like auto-stop grinding, a built-in ionizer to reduce static, an impressively fine 2.2-micron adjustment system for espresso, a digital timer accurate to one-tenth of a second, and a lit grinds chamber. It also offers a straightforward way to switch between single dosing and full hopper use.
Originally, we were scheduled to receive an early production model at the start of April, but shipping delays pushed that back. Normally, I prefer to write about gear after hands-on use. Still, given Baratza’s impact on the home grinder market and the innovation packed into this release, it’s worth highlighting now. We will be getting one of the first units in North America in early May and I will have a quick hands on followup article at that time.
If you happen to be at the SCA Expo in Houston April 25-27 2025, you can see this grinder in person at Baratza’s booth, #615, where they will have several units in demonstration, as well as the folks behind the grinder available to answer questions.
Set up for espresso use, with the single dose hopper and grinds cup that will fit 54mm and 58mm portafilters.What’s Notable about the Baratza Encore ESP Pro
It’s tough to pick just one standout feature from Baratza’s new Encore ESP Pro, because this grinder packs in several impressive upgrades. Some folks will immediately zero in on the ultra-fine 2.2 micron adjustment steps, which offer a new level of control for dialing in espresso. Others might appreciate the auto-off feature that’s perfect for single dosing. For me, the edge might go to Baratza’s first-ever use of an ionizer for static reduction.
Ionizer for Static Reduction
Baratza has spent decades refining how their grinders handle static. They’ve used special plastics, coatings, and material pairings and even polish treatments to minimize clumping and static cling from coffee. Over time, these efforts helped Baratza develop some of the lowest static-producing grinders on the home market, at least when compared to others without an ionizer.
With the Encore ESP Pro, they’ve taken that additional step by adding a built-in ionizer, using a plasma generator design of their own. This system builds on everything they’ve learned and adds an active layer of static control. According to the engineers I spoke with, the results have been impressive, with minimal static in most conditions. I’ll be putting that claim to the test as soon as our review unit arrives.
The grinds coming out of the Encore ESP Pro are static-free thanks to the built in ionizer.Timer and Auto-Off Features
The Encore ESP Pro offers two distinct modes for grinding: a digital timer-based mode and an auto-off mode specifically geared toward single dosing. Timed grinding uses a digital 1/10th second grind timer, and a pretty cool looking display unlike anything seen on a Baratza grinder before. It gives you solid control and repeatability for your grind times. The auto-off mode is particularly interesting. When single dosing, the grinder senses resistance in the burr chamber, and once that resistance disappears – meaning the beans are fully ground – it shuts off automatically.
Auto-off isn’t a new concept in consumer grinders. The Wilfa Uniform includes a similar feature, as does the Option-O Lagom Mini 2. In my experience, the Wilfa’s execution feels a little inconsistent, and I haven’t had a chance to try the Mini 2’s version yet. We’re curious to see how well Baratza’s system performs in comparison.
Though not confirmed, I believe the auto-off feature is enabled automatically when you switch out the bean hopper for the single dose hopper.
The timer / grind size display and the control and barista lights on the Encore ESP Pro.Ultra-Precise Espresso Adjustments
Baratza has also upgraded the grind adjustment system in the ESP Pro. While it is based on the Encore ESP’s two-stage grind adjustment design, the Pro version steps it up with beefier metal components and even finer granularity. With 2.2 microns per click in the espresso range, this grinder is shaping up to be one of the most precise options for home espresso enthusiasts.
The system splits into two grind zones: the fine end for espresso, and the coarser range for brewing methods like Aeropress, manual pour over, drip, siphon, and French press. One detail we’re eager to clarify is whether the micron jump per click remains consistent across the non-espresso range, or increases as you move coarser. That’s something we’ll test thoroughly once we get hands-on.
And how could I forget this: this is no longer just a “mechanical” grind adjustment for the grind settings: it is digitally represented on the front display. Rotate the hopper to adjust your grind (like all Encore and Virtuoso grinders before), but this time, the display changes from it’s timed display to showing you the grind setting. That is seriously cool.
The mini hopper in place, it is still manually rotated to pick your grind setting, but the digital display shows the actual grind setting number.Other Sought After Features and Additional Thoughts
The Baratza Encore ESP Pro doesn’t just build on the foundation of the original Encore ESP. It takes many of the most loved features from across Baratza’s grinder lineup and rolls them into one well-thought-out machine. The result is a grinder that feels far more refined and complete, especially for home espresso enthusiasts who want flexibility without giving up quality.
Like the Encore ESP, the Pro version includes both a dosing cup and a grinds bin. That alone makes it versatile, whether you’re grinding for espresso or something more coarse. But Baratza goes a step further by including both a standard hopper (likely around 12 ounces in capacity) and a dedicated single dose hopper with a matching lid, right in the box. That’s a welcome change for users who want to switch between workflow styles without needing to buy extra accessories.
Similar to the Virtuoso+, the ESP Pro has an integrated “barista light” that illuminates the grinds bin or dosing cup when the grinder is active. It’s a small touch, but one that improves usability, especially in lower light or early morning coffee routines. My only concern is if the colour of that light is excessively “cold” or not. I prefer these kinds of barista lights to be more natural colour, in the 3500-5000k range. This is something else we’ll test and note in our hands on.
Display and Controls
The display on the ESP Pro is pretty cool. It’s simple and clean, with a white LED screen embedded flush into a black fascia plate. Functionally, the display does more than just show a timer. It tracks grind settings from 0 to 60 in 0.5 increments, giving users 120 possible settings. It also visually indicates when you’re in the espresso range, clearly marking the transition between espresso grinding and other brew methods.
All controls are managed through a single front-mounted dial that both rotates and clicks, maintaining a clean aesthetic and minimizing clutter. Very “apple” like.
The display is simple and intuitive, and has indicators for different modes and grinding ranges.Build Quality and Materials
One of the bigger physical upgrades over the Encore ESP is the outer body. While the original is mostly plastic, the ESP Pro uses anodized metal for large portions of its outer housing. This should add a noticeable bump in durability and give the grinder a more premium feel. For users looking for a machine that looks at home in a more upscale kitchen setup, this change matters.
The outer body of the Encore ESP Pro is a combination of anodized black metal and plastics.Burr Set and Performance
The Encore ESP Pro uses Baratza’s M2 burr set, developed by Etzinger. These 40mm conical burrs are highly regarded for espresso, to which I can personally attest. While they perform admirably in the espresso range, they do show some limitations once you move into the coarser end of the grind spectrum. In my experience, brews like Chemex or French press benefit from burrs designed with more clarity and uniformity in mind.
Compared to high-end burrs like the Moonshine conicals from Option-O, the M2s hold their own in espresso output but fall behind for filter brews. Still, for the price and the target audience, they are a solid choice. I would like to see Baratza work with Etzinger to improve the burrs further outside their already excellent espresso and Aeropress performance.
Design and Longevity
At launch, the grinder is only available in black. Baratza may expand the color options in the future. The white Encore ESP looks fantastic, so it would be great to see that styling carried over to the Pro model.
Baratza’s long-standing commitment to repairability is another big plus. Their “don’t dump it, fix it” ethos carries over to the ESP Pro. Users can expect access to affordable replacement parts and support materials, like repair videos and walkthroughs. This approach ensures the grinder can remain in service for many years, even decades, with basic upkeep.
Industry Perspective and Availability
In the official launch announcement, Phil McKnight, Breville’s President of Global Specialty Coffee, had this to say:
“I’m so excited about the launch of the game changing Baratza Encore ESP Pro grinder that offers precision, versatility and performance never seen at this price point. A stepless grind adjustment with an amazing resolution of 2.2 microns per degree of mechanism rotation in the espresso range makes dialing in any recipe foolproof. Thoughtful features of the ESP Pro like Anti-Static, Auto-Off when single dosing, a hopper with bean shut-off and flow control disk coupled with the included accessories like a dosing cup for espresso and a single dose hopper are what our consumers are looking for and Baratza’s here to provide,”
I don’t know what the flow control disk is yet, but I am looking forward to finding out. We’re expecting to get a test unit soon, and once we do, we’ll follow up with more hands-on insights and direct feedback from Baratza’s team.
The Baratza Encore ESP Pro is expected to be available in early summer at a retail price of $300 USD ($299.95). North America will be the first region to receive stock, with global availability to follow.
#615 #baratza #coffeeGrinder #encoreEspPro #encoreGrinder #grinder
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I converted my husband’s computer to Linux
And you can too!
Over about the last year, my husband has been getting increasingly frustrated with Microsoft. Unlike me he isn’t a power-user who uses all the advanced features, wants to configure absolutely everything. He’s probably a bit more technically proficient than the average person, but his eyes start glazing over when I start using terms like “desktop environments”, “forks”, and “Github”.
Recently even he has noticed worse performance, unwanted AI features being shoved in his face, useful features disappearing, and being expected to pay for all of this. So he finally accepted my repeated offer to install Linux on his machine.
I’ve described the process I went through below, including some of the decisions I made and why. This is not a How To guide. If anything, it’s probably a How Not To guide. Learn from my mistakes.
I considered leaving my stuff-ups out of this blog, but one of the reasons I wanted to write about my adventures in FOSS is to show people that it’s OK to make mistakes, and you don’t need a degree in Computer Science to use FOSS software or install Linux.
Use Case
Husband mainly uses his computer for playing offline, single-player games, listening to podcasts, and browsing the web. I recommened Nobara Linux because:
It’s very beginner-friendly.
It’s set up for gamers and comes with a bunch of nifty apps and features preinstalled, including GE Proton and NVIDIA drivers.
Nobara uses a modified version of the KDE desktop environment, which Husband is somewhat familiar with because I installed it on the Raspberry Pi that we use to stream videos on our TV.
It’s what I use on my own PC.
I like purple.
I also considered Pop! OS, another gamer-friendly distribution that I have previously used, but ultimately I just decided to go with that I was using, because it would make it easer to help Husband through his learning curve. Plus obviously I use it because I like it.
Husband agreed because, in his words “I don’t care so long I can play my games”.
Nobara Linux?
Nobara Linux is a Linux distribution (distro) based on Fedora and developed by Thomas Crinder (AKA “GloriousEggroll”), the same developer who created GE-Proton, a fork of Valve’s Proton compatibility tool. Long story short, Proton is what allows you to play Steam games on Linux. Nobara’s target audience is basically people like Husband who just want a distro to run their games and do basic computer stuff.
Like most modern Linux distributions, Nobara uses a user friendly GUI that would look fairly familiar to most Windows users.
Installation
The process of installing Nobara Linux was fairly straighforward. There’s a nice little guide on Nobara’s website that provides installation instruction, but here’s what I did.
1. Download Nobara
First, download the latest version of Nobara from Nobara’s website.
The website offers the choice between Standard images and NVIDIA images. The only difference is that the NVIDIA image comes packaged with the latest NVIDIA drivers. This is very useful because manually installing NVIDIA drivers on Linux is notoriously a colossal pain in the arse. Since Husband has an old graphics card that is no longer supported, I used a Standard image.
You can also choose between a few different desktop enviroments. I’m not going to get into that here, except to say that I picked the Official variant. I’d recommend this option for most people who don’t have strong opinions about desktop environments.
2. Burn an ISO image
I already have Linux installed on my own PC so I used Fedora Media Writer. If you’re on Windows, the nice people at Nobara recommend an app called Rufus.
It is very important that the USB drive has at least 3 GB of space and does not have anything that you to keep want on it. The process of burning the ISO image will completely wipe it and replace it with the installation file for Nobara.
3. Disable Secure Boot
This is IMO the most fiddly bit of installing Linux for non-techinchal people, because you’re going to need to mess around with the BIOS, which most people never even think about. The process varies depending on what type of motherboard your computer has. Ideally, the process goes something like this:
Restart your PC.
Frantically mash the F2 button (or F12 or DEL, depending on your setup) until the BIOS user interface appears.
Go to Boot section of the BIOS. There should be a setting setting called Secure Boot. Change it from** Enabled **to *Disabled*.
Press Escape and select Save changes and reset. This will restart your computer.
The process did not go like this for me, because I hadn’t had to do this in many years, and I foolishly assumed that because I couldn’t see the Secure Boot setting, I didn’t need to take any further action. This caused a bunch of weird bugs in the operating system which I spent hours trying to fix, before ultimately realizing my mistake.
Because, as I mentioned, Husband’s computer is pretty old, the Secure Boot option was hidden. What I needed to do was go into the Advanced Tab > Windows OS configuration > BIOS CSM/UEFI, disable that feature, and then go back and turn off Secure Boot. Thanks to this random Redditor who has a different type of motherboard but whose post helped me figure this out.
4. Boot from the USB drive
Having sucessfully disabled Secure Boot, the next step was to go into BIOS again and boot from the USB prepared in Step 2.
5. Install the Nobara Linux
This is actually the easy bit. Nobara has a nice, user-friendly GUI for installation. Like most people, I just picked the default options for things like language, time zone, and keyboard configuration.
Complications
The only real complication (that wasn’t caused by my own incompetence) that I encountered was the graphics card. Husband’s PC is still rocking a NVIDIA 1080 GTX Ti. Unfortunately NVIDIA recently stopped supporting the 10 series and Nobara Linux does not provide support for downloading installing legacy drivers.
Fortunately, I found an excellent guide on on if-not-true-then-false.com that made installing the driver directly from NVIDIA's website fairly straighforward.
OK it wasn’t entirely straighforward because I am a walking layer 8 issue, and I didn’t understand how to append things to the configuration file, but I eventually figured it out.
Additional apps and tweaks
Having gotten Nobara up and running, I installed a few additional apps and made a few tweaks to the settings. I installed:
Elisa, a simple audio player for KDE.
VLC, the beloved OG video player.
Kasts, a podcast player and manager for KDE.
Thunderbird, Mozilla’s email client.
I also:
Set up the two additional hard drives that Husband has installed to store his Home and Games folders respectively. Moved the default storage location in Steam.
Installed the Tela icon theme, because it’s what Husband is used to and I just think it looks nicer than the default theme.
Imported Husband’s saved passwords from a CSV file he had exported earlier.
Downloaded his backed-up files.
Turned off the feature that peaks at the desktop when you mouse over the top-right corner of the screen, because I just find it unspeakably annoying and suspect that Husband would too.
Used Proton Plus to install GE Proton Latest and configured the compatibility settings on Steam to use it to run Windows games.
And then Husband’s computer was ready for him to use. So far he seems pretty happy with it. I’ll update on how it’s going when he’s had more time to get used to it.
#Linux #Nobara #Proton #LinuxGaming #VideoGames #KDE #FOSS #Microsoft #Steam #Blog -
I converted my husband’s computer to Linux
And you can too!
Over about the last year, my husband has been getting increasingly frustrated with Microsoft. Unlike me he isn’t a power-user who uses all the advanced features, wants to configure absolutely everything. He’s probably a bit more technically proficient than the average person, but his eyes start glazing over when I start using terms like “desktop environments”, “forks”, and “Github”.
Recently even he has noticed worse performance, unwanted AI features being shoved in his face, useful features disappearing, and being expected to pay for all of this. So he finally accepted my repeated offer to install Linux on his machine.
I’ve described the process I went through below, including some of the decisions I made and why. This is not a How To guide. If anything, it’s probably a How Not To guide. Learn from my mistakes.
I considered leaving my stuff-ups out of this blog, but one of the reasons I wanted to write about my adventures in FOSS is to show people that it’s OK to make mistakes, and you don’t need a degree in Computer Science to use FOSS software or install Linux.
Use Case
Husband mainly uses his computer for playing offline, single-player games, listening to podcasts, and browsing the web. I recommened Nobara Linux because:
It’s very beginner-friendly.
It’s set up for gamers and comes with a bunch of nifty apps and features preinstalled, including GE Proton and NVIDIA drivers.
Nobara uses a modified version of the KDE desktop environment, which Husband is somewhat familiar with because I installed it on the Raspberry Pi that we use to stream videos on our TV.
It’s what I use on my own PC.
I like purple.
I also considered Pop! OS, another gamer-friendly distribution that I have previously used, but ultimately I just decided to go with that I was using, because it would make it easer to help Husband through his learning curve. Plus obviously I use it because I like it.
Husband agreed because, in his words “I don’t care so long I can play my games”.
Nobara Linux?
Nobara Linux is a Linux distribution (distro) based on Fedora and developed by Thomas Crinder (AKA “GloriousEggroll”), the same developer who created GE-Proton, a fork of Valve’s Proton compatibility tool. Long story short, Proton is what allows you to play Steam games on Linux. Nobara’s target audience is basically people like Husband who just want a distro to run their games and do basic computer stuff.
Like most modern Linux distributions, Nobara uses a user friendly GUI that would look fairly familiar to most Windows users.
Installation
The process of installing Nobara Linux was fairly straighforward. There’s a nice little guide on Nobara’s website that provides installation instruction, but here’s what I did.
1. Download Nobara
First, download the latest version of Nobara from Nobara’s website.
The website offers the choice between Standard images and NVIDIA images. The only difference is that the NVIDIA image comes packaged with the latest NVIDIA drivers. This is very useful because manually installing NVIDIA drivers on Linux is notoriously a colossal pain in the arse. Since Husband has an old graphics card that is no longer supported, I used a Standard image.
You can also choose between a few different desktop enviroments. I’m not going to get into that here, except to say that I picked the Official variant. I’d recommend this option for most people who don’t have strong opinions about desktop environments.
2. Burn an ISO image
I already have Linux installed on my own PC so I used Fedora Media Writer. If you’re on Windows, the nice people at Nobara recommend an app called Rufus.
It is very important that the USB drive has at least 3 GB of space and does not have anything that you to keep want on it. The process of burning the ISO image will completely wipe it and replace it with the installation file for Nobara.
3. Disable Secure Boot
This is IMO the most fiddly bit of installing Linux for non-techinchal people, because you’re going to need to mess around with the BIOS, which most people never even think about. The process varies depending on what type of motherboard your computer has. Ideally, the process goes something like this:
Restart your PC.
Frantically mash the F2 button (or F12 or DEL, depending on your setup) until the BIOS user interface appears.
Go to Boot section of the BIOS. There should be a setting setting called Secure Boot. Change it from** Enabled **to *Disabled*.
Press Escape and select Save changes and reset. This will restart your computer.
The process did not go like this for me, because I hadn’t had to do this in many years, and I foolishly assumed that because I couldn’t see the Secure Boot setting, I didn’t need to take any further action. This caused a bunch of weird bugs in the operating system which I spent hours trying to fix, before ultimately realizing my mistake.
Because, as I mentioned, Husband’s computer is pretty old, the Secure Boot option was hidden. What I needed to do was go into the Advanced Tab > Windows OS configuration > BIOS CSM/UEFI, disable that feature, and then go back and turn off Secure Boot. Thanks to this random Redditor who has a different type of motherboard but whose post helped me figure this out.
4. Boot from the USB drive
Having sucessfully disabled Secure Boot, the next step was to go into BIOS again and boot from the USB prepared in Step 2.
5. Install the Nobara Linux
This is actually the easy bit. Nobara has a nice, user-friendly GUI for installation. Like most people, I just picked the default options for things like language, time zone, and keyboard configuration.
Complications
The only real complication (that wasn’t caused by my own incompetence) that I encountered was the graphics card. Husband’s PC is still rocking a NVIDIA 1080 GTX Ti. Unfortunately NVIDIA recently stopped supporting the 10 series and Nobara Linux does not provide support for downloading installing legacy drivers.
Fortunately, I found an excellent guide on on if-not-true-then-false.com that made installing the driver directly from NVIDIA's website fairly straighforward.
OK it wasn’t entirely straighforward because I am a walking layer 8 issue, and I didn’t understand how to append things to the configuration file, but I eventually figured it out.
Additional apps and tweaks
Having gotten Nobara up and running, I installed a few additional apps and made a few tweaks to the settings. I installed:
Elisa, a simple audio player for KDE.
VLC, the beloved OG video player.
Kasts, a podcast player and manager for KDE.
Thunderbird, Mozilla’s email client.
I also:
Set up the two additional hard drives that Husband has installed to store his Home and Games folders respectively. Moved the default storage location in Steam.
Installed the Tela icon theme, because it’s what Husband is used to and I just think it looks nicer than the default theme.
Imported Husband’s saved passwords from a CSV file he had exported earlier.
Downloaded his backed-up files.
Turned off the feature that peaks at the desktop when you mouse over the top-right corner of the screen, because I just find it unspeakably annoying and suspect that Husband would too.
Used Proton Plus to install GE Proton Latest and configured the compatibility settings on Steam to use it to run Windows games.
And then Husband’s computer was ready for him to use. So far he seems pretty happy with it. I’ll update on how it’s going when he’s had more time to get used to it.
#Linux #Nobara #Proton #LinuxGaming #VideoGames #KDE #FOSS #Microsoft #Steam #Blog -
I converted my husband’s computer to Linux
And you can too!
Over about the last year, my husband has been getting increasingly frustrated with Microsoft. Unlike me he isn’t a power-user who uses all the advanced features, wants to configure absolutely everything. He’s probably a bit more technically proficient than the average person, but his eyes start glazing over when I start using terms like “desktop environments”, “forks”, and “Github”.
Recently even he has noticed worse performance, unwanted AI features being shoved in his face, useful features disappearing, and being expected to pay for all of this. So he finally accepted my repeated offer to install Linux on his machine.
I’ve described the process I went through below, including some of the decisions I made and why. This is not a How To guide. If anything, it’s probably a How Not To guide. Learn from my mistakes.
I considered leaving my stuff-ups out of this blog, but one of the reasons I wanted to write about my adventures in FOSS is to show people that it’s OK to make mistakes, and you don’t need a degree in Computer Science to use FOSS software or install Linux.
Use Case
Husband mainly uses his computer for playing offline, single-player games, listening to podcasts, and browsing the web. I recommened Nobara Linux because:
It’s very beginner-friendly.
It’s set up for gamers and comes with a bunch of nifty apps and features preinstalled, including GE Proton and NVIDIA drivers.
Nobara uses a modified version of the KDE desktop environment, which Husband is somewhat familiar with because I installed it on the Raspberry Pi that we use to stream videos on our TV.
It’s what I use on my own PC.
I like purple.
I also considered Pop! OS, another gamer-friendly distribution that I have previously used, but ultimately I just decided to go with that I was using, because it would make it easer to help Husband through his learning curve. Plus obviously I use it because I like it.
Husband agreed because, in his words “I don’t care so long I can play my games”.
Nobara Linux?
Nobara Linux is a Linux distribution (distro) based on Fedora and developed by Thomas Crinder (AKA “GloriousEggroll”), the same developer who created GE-Proton, a fork of Valve’s Proton compatibility tool. Long story short, Proton is what allows you to play Steam games on Linux. Nobara’s target audience is basically people like Husband who just want a distro to run their games and do basic computer stuff.
Like most modern Linux distributions, Nobara uses a user friendly GUI that would look fairly familiar to most Windows users.
Installation
The process of installing Nobara Linux was fairly straighforward. There’s a nice little guide on Nobara’s website that provides installation instruction, but here’s what I did.
1. Download Nobara
First, download the latest version of Nobara from Nobara’s website.
The website offers the choice between Standard images and NVIDIA images. The only difference is that the NVIDIA image comes packaged with the latest NVIDIA drivers. This is very useful because manually installing NVIDIA drivers on Linux is notoriously a colossal pain in the arse. Since Husband has an old graphics card that is no longer supported, I used a Standard image.
You can also choose between a few different desktop enviroments. I’m not going to get into that here, except to say that I picked the Official variant. I’d recommend this option for most people who don’t have strong opinions about desktop environments.
2. Burn an ISO image
I already have Linux installed on my own PC so I used Fedora Media Writer. If you’re on Windows, the nice people at Nobara recommend an app called Rufus.
It is very important that the USB drive has at least 3 GB of space and does not have anything that you to keep want on it. The process of burning the ISO image will completely wipe it and replace it with the installation file for Nobara.
3. Disable Secure Boot
This is IMO the most fiddly bit of installing Linux for non-techinchal people, because you’re going to need to mess around with the BIOS, which most people never even think about. The process varies depending on what type of motherboard your computer has. Ideally, the process goes something like this:
Restart your PC.
Frantically mash the F2 button (or F12 or DEL, depending on your setup) until the BIOS user interface appears.
Go to Boot section of the BIOS. There should be a setting setting called Secure Boot. Change it from** Enabled **to *Disabled*.
Press Escape and select Save changes and reset. This will restart your computer.
The process did not go like this for me, because I hadn’t had to do this in many years, and I foolishly assumed that because I couldn’t see the Secure Boot setting, I didn’t need to take any further action. This caused a bunch of weird bugs in the operating system which I spent hours trying to fix, before ultimately realizing my mistake.
Because, as I mentioned, Husband’s computer is pretty old, the Secure Boot option was hidden. What I needed to do was go into the Advanced Tab > Windows OS configuration > BIOS CSM/UEFI, disable that feature, and then go back and turn off Secure Boot. Thanks to this random Redditor who has a different type of motherboard but whose post helped me figure this out.
4. Boot from the USB drive
Having sucessfully disabled Secure Boot, the next step was to go into BIOS again and boot from the USB prepared in Step 2.
5. Install the Nobara Linux
This is actually the easy bit. Nobara has a nice, user-friendly GUI for installation. Like most people, I just picked the default options for things like language, time zone, and keyboard configuration.
Complications
The only real complication (that wasn’t caused by my own incompetence) that I encountered was the graphics card. Husband’s PC is still rocking a NVIDIA 1080 GTX Ti. Unfortunately NVIDIA recently stopped supporting the 10 series and Nobara Linux does not provide support for downloading installing legacy drivers.
Fortunately, I found an excellent guide on on if-not-true-then-false.com that made installing the driver directly from NVIDIA's website fairly straighforward.
OK it wasn’t entirely straighforward because I am a walking layer 8 issue, and I didn’t understand how to append things to the configuration file, but I eventually figured it out.
Additional apps and tweaks
Having gotten Nobara up and running, I installed a few additional apps and made a few tweaks to the settings. I installed:
Elisa, a simple audio player for KDE.
VLC, the beloved OG video player.
Kasts, a podcast player and manager for KDE.
Thunderbird, Mozilla’s email client.
I also:
Set up the two additional hard drives that Husband has installed to store his Home and Games folders respectively. Moved the default storage location in Steam.
Installed the Tela icon theme, because it’s what Husband is used to and I just think it looks nicer than the default theme.
Imported Husband’s saved passwords from a CSV file he had exported earlier.
Downloaded his backed-up files.
Turned off the feature that peaks at the desktop when you mouse over the top-right corner of the screen, because I just find it unspeakably annoying and suspect that Husband would too.
Used Proton Plus to install GE Proton Latest and configured the compatibility settings on Steam to use it to run Windows games.
And then Husband’s computer was ready for him to use. So far he seems pretty happy with it. I’ll update on how it’s going when he’s had more time to get used to it.
#Linux #Nobara #Proton #LinuxGaming #VideoGames #KDE #FOSS #Microsoft #Steam #Blog -
CW: Blog post: # I converted my husband’s computer to Linux
I converted my husband’s computer to Linux
And you can too!
Over about the last year, my husband has been getting increasingly frustrated with Microsoft. Unlike me he isn’t a power-user who uses all the advanced features, wants to configure absolutely everything. He’s probably a bit more technically proficient than the average person, but his eyes start glazing over when I start using terms like “desktop environments”, “forks”, and “Github”.
Recently even he has noticed worse performance, unwanted AI features being shoved in his face, useful features disappearing, and being expected to pay for all of this. So he finally accepted my repeated offer to install Linux on his machine.
I’ve described the process I went through below, including some of the decisions I made and why. This is not a How To guide. If anything, it’s probably a How Not To guide. Learn from my mistakes.
I considered leaving my stuff-ups out of this blog, but one of the reasons I wanted to write about my adventures in FOSS is to show people that it’s OK to make mistakes, and you don’t need a degree in Computer Science to use FOSS software or install Linux.
Use Case
Husband mainly uses his computer for playing offline, single-player games, listening to podcasts, and browsing the web. I recommened Nobara Linux because:
It’s very beginner-friendly.
It’s set up for gamers and comes with a bunch of nifty apps and features preinstalled, including GE Proton and NVIDIA drivers.
Nobara uses a modified version of the KDE desktop environment, which Husband is somewhat familiar with because I installed it on the Raspberry Pi that we use to stream videos on our TV.
It’s what I use on my own PC.
I like purple.
I also considered Pop! OS, another gamer-friendly distribution that I have previously used, but ultimately I just decided to go with that I was using, because it would make it easer to help Husband through his learning curve. Plus obviously I use it because I like it.
Husband agreed because, in his words “I don’t care so long I can play my games”.
Nobara Linux?
Nobara Linux is a Linux distribution (distro) based on Fedora and developed by Thomas Crinder (AKA “GloriousEggroll”), the same developer who created GE-Proton, a fork of Valve’s Proton compatibility tool. Long story short, Proton is what allows you to play Steam games on Linux. Nobara’s target audience is basically people like Husband who just want a distro to run their games and do basic computer stuff.
Like most modern Linux distributions, Nobara uses a user friendly GUI that would look fairly familiar to most Windows users.
Installation
The process of installing Nobara Linux was fairly straighforward. There’s a nice little guide on Nobara’s website that provides installation instruction, but here’s what I did.
1. Download Nobara
First, download the latest version of Nobara from Nobara’s website.
The website offers the choice between Standard images and NVIDIA images. The only difference is that the NVIDIA image comes packaged with the latest NVIDIA drivers. This is very useful because manually installing NVIDIA drivers on Linux is notoriously a colossal pain in the arse. Since Husband has an old graphics card that is no longer supported, I used a Standard image.
You can also choose between a few different desktop enviroments. I’m not going to get into that here, except to say that I picked the Official variant. I’d recommend this option for most people who don’t have strong opinions about desktop environments.
2. Burn an ISO image
I already have Linux installed on my own PC so I used Fedora Media Writer. If you’re on Windows, the nice people at Nobara recommend an app called Rufus.
It is very important that the USB drive has at least 3 GB of space and does not have anything that you to keep want on it. The process of burning the ISO image will completely wipe it and replace it with the installation file for Nobara.
3. Disable Secure Boot
This is IMO the most fiddly bit of installing Linux for non-techinchal people, because you’re going to need to mess around with the BIOS, which most people never even think about. The process varies depending on what type of motherboard your computer has. Ideally, the process goes something like this:
Restart your PC.
Frantically mash the F2 button (or F12 or DEL, depending on your setup) until the BIOS user interface appears.
Go to Boot section of the BIOS. There should be a setting setting called Secure Boot. Change it from** Enabled **to *Disabled*.
Press Escape and select Save changes and reset. This will restart your computer.
The process did not go like this for me, because I hadn’t had to do this in many years, and I foolishly assumed that because I couldn’t see the Secure Boot setting, I didn’t need to take any further action. This caused a bunch of weird bugs in the operating system which I spent hours trying to fix, before ultimately realizing my mistake.
Because, as I mentioned, Husband’s computer is pretty old, the Secure Boot option was hidden. What I needed to do was go into the Advanced Tab > Windows OS configuration > BIOS CSM/UEFI, disable* that* feature, and then go back and turn off Secure Boot. Thanks to this random Redditor who has a different type of motherboard but whose post helped me figure this out.
4. Boot from the USB drive
Having sucessfully disabled** Secure Boot, the next step was to go into BIOS again and boot from the USB prepared in Step 2**.
5. Install the Nobara Linux
This is actually the easy bit. Nobara has a nice, user-friendly GUI for installation. Like most people, I just picked the default options for things like language, time zone, and keyboard configuration.
Complications
The only real complication (that wasn’t caused by my own incompetence) that I encountered was the graphics card. Husband’s PC is still rocking a NVIDIA 1080 GTX Ti. Unfortunately Nvidia recently stopped supporting the 10 series recently and Nobara Linux does not
Fortunately, I found an excellent guide on on if-not-true-then-false.com that made installing the driver directly from Nvidia’s website fairly straighforward.
OK it wasn’t entirely straighforward because I am a walking layer 8 issue, and I didn’t understand how to append things to the configuration file, but I eventually figured it out.
Additional apps and tweaks
Having gotten Nobara up and running, I installed a few additional apps and made a few tweaks to the settings. I installed:
Elisa, a simple audio player for KDE.
VLC, the beloved OG video player.
Kasts, a podcast player and manager for KDE.
Thunderbird, Mozilla’s email client.
I also:
Set up the two additional hard drives that Husband has installed to store his Home and Games folders respectively. Moved the default storage location in Steam.
Installed the Tela icon theme, because it’s what Husband is used to and I just think it looks nicer than the default theme.
Imported Husband’s saved passwords from a CSV file he had exported earlier.
Downloaded his backed-up files.
Turned off the feature that peaks at the desktop when you mouse over the top-right corner of the screen, because I just find it unspeakably annoying and suspect that Husband would too.
Used Proton Plus to install GE Proton Latest and configured the compatibility settings on Steam to use it to run Windows games.
And then Husband’s computer was ready for him to use. So far he seems pretty happy with it. I’ll update on how it’s going when he’s had more time to get used to it.
#Linux #Nobara #Proton #LinuxGaming #VideoGames #KDE #FOSS #Microsoft #Steam #Blog -
CW: Blog post: # I converted my husband’s computer to Linux
I converted my husband’s computer to Linux
And you can too!
Over about the last year, my husband has been getting increasingly frustrated with Microsoft. Unlike me he isn’t a power-user who uses all the advanced features, wants to configure absolutely everything. He’s probably a bit more technically proficient than the average person, but his eyes start glazing over when I start using terms like “desktop environments”, “forks”, and “Github”.
Recently even he has noticed worse performance, unwanted AI features being shoved in his face, useful features disappearing, and being expected to pay for all of this. So he finally accepted my repeated offer to install Linux on his machine.
I’ve described the process I went through below, including some of the decisions I made and why. This is not a How To guide. If anything, it’s probably a How Not To guide. Learn from my mistakes.
I considered leaving my stuff-ups out of this blog, but one of the reasons I wanted to write about my adventures in FOSS is to show people that it’s OK to make mistakes, and you don’t need a degree in Computer Science to use FOSS software or install Linux.
Use Case
Husband mainly uses his computer for playing offline, single-player games, listening to podcasts, and browsing the web. I recommened Nobara Linux because:
It’s very beginner-friendly.
It’s set up for gamers and comes with a bunch of nifty apps and features preinstalled, including GE Proton and NVIDIA drivers.
Nobara uses a modified version of the KDE desktop environment, which Husband is somewhat familiar with because I installed it on the Raspberry Pi that we use to stream videos on our TV.
It’s what I use on my own PC.
I like purple.
I also considered Pop! OS, another gamer-friendly distribution that I have previously used, but ultimately I just decided to go with that I was using, because it would make it easer to help Husband through his learning curve. Plus obviously I use it because I like it.
Husband agreed because, in his words “I don’t care so long I can play my games”.
Nobara Linux?
Nobara Linux is a Linux distribution (distro) based on Fedora and developed by Thomas Crinder (AKA “GloriousEggroll”), the same developer who created GE-Proton, a fork of Valve’s Proton compatibility tool. Long story short, Proton is what allows you to play Steam games on Linux. Nobara’s target audience is basically people like Husband who just want a distro to run their games and do basic computer stuff.
Like most modern Linux distributions, Nobara uses a user friendly GUI that would look fairly familiar to most Windows users.
Installation
The process of installing Nobara Linux was fairly straighforward. There’s a nice little guide on Nobara’s website that provides installation instruction, but here’s what I did.
1. Download Nobara
First, download the latest version of Nobara from Nobara’s website.
The website offers the choice between Standard images and NVIDIA images. The only difference is that the NVIDIA image comes packaged with the latest NVIDIA drivers. This is very useful because manually installing NVIDIA drivers on Linux is notoriously a colossal pain in the arse. Since Husband has an old graphics card that is no longer supported, I used a Standard image.
You can also choose between a few different desktop enviroments. I’m not going to get into that here, except to say that I picked the Official variant. I’d recommend this option for most people who don’t have strong opinions about desktop environments.
2. Burn an ISO image
I already have Linux installed on my own PC so I used Fedora Media Writer. If you’re on Windows, the nice people at Nobara recommend an app called Rufus.
It is very important that the USB drive has at least 3 GB of space and does not have anything that you to keep want on it. The process of burning the ISO image will completely wipe it and replace it with the installation file for Nobara.
3. Disable Secure Boot
This is IMO the most fiddly bit of installing Linux for non-techinchal people, because you’re going to need to mess around with the BIOS, which most people never even think about. The process varies depending on what type of motherboard your computer has. Ideally, the process goes something like this:
Restart your PC.
Frantically mash the F2 button (or F12 or DEL, depending on your setup) until the BIOS user interface appears.
Go to Boot section of the BIOS. There should be a setting setting called Secure Boot. Change it from** Enabled **to *Disabled*.
Press Escape and select Save changes and reset. This will restart your computer.
The process did not go like this for me, because I hadn’t had to do this in many years, and I foolishly assumed that because I couldn’t see the Secure Boot setting, I didn’t need to take any further action. This caused a bunch of weird bugs in the operating system which I spent hours trying to fix, before ultimately realizing my mistake.
Because, as I mentioned, Husband’s computer is pretty old, the Secure Boot option was hidden. What I needed to do was go into the Advanced Tab > Windows OS configuration > BIOS CSM/UEFI, disable* that* feature, and then go back and turn off Secure Boot. Thanks to this random Redditor who has a different type of motherboard but whose post helped me figure this out.
4. Boot from the USB drive
Having sucessfully disabled** Secure Boot, the next step was to go into BIOS again and boot from the USB prepared in Step 2**.
5. Install the Nobara Linux
This is actually the easy bit. Nobara has a nice, user-friendly GUI for installation. Like most people, I just picked the default options for things like language, time zone, and keyboard configuration.
Complications
The only real complication (that wasn’t caused by my own incompetence) that I encountered was the graphics card. Husband’s PC is still rocking a NVIDIA 1080 GTX Ti. Unfortunately Nvidia recently stopped supporting the 10 series recently and Nobara Linux does not
Fortunately, I found an excellent guide on on if-not-true-then-false.com that made installing the driver directly from Nvidia’s website fairly straighforward.
OK it wasn’t entirely straighforward because I am a walking layer 8 issue, and I didn’t understand how to append things to the configuration file, but I eventually figured it out.
Additional apps and tweaks
Having gotten Nobara up and running, I installed a few additional apps and made a few tweaks to the settings. I installed:
Elisa, a simple audio player for KDE.
VLC, the beloved OG video player.
Kasts, a podcast player and manager for KDE.
Thunderbird, Mozilla’s email client.
I also:
Set up the two additional hard drives that Husband has installed to store his Home and Games folders respectively. Moved the default storage location in Steam.
Installed the Tela icon theme, because it’s what Husband is used to and I just think it looks nicer than the default theme.
Imported Husband’s saved passwords from a CSV file he had exported earlier.
Downloaded his backed-up files.
Turned off the feature that peaks at the desktop when you mouse over the top-right corner of the screen, because I just find it unspeakably annoying and suspect that Husband would too.
Used Proton Plus to install GE Proton Latest and configured the compatibility settings on Steam to use it to run Windows games.
And then Husband’s computer was ready for him to use. So far he seems pretty happy with it. I’ll update on how it’s going when he’s had more time to get used to it.
#Linux #Nobara #Proton #LinuxGaming #VideoGames #KDE #FOSS #Microsoft #Steam #Blog -
Cowboy Angelo - Morning chores
#furryart #fursona #drawing #cowboy #westernart #anthroart #hardworking #fediart #mastoart #art #cartoonist #heavylifting #manuallabor
-
Cowboy Angelo - Morning chores
#furryart #fursona #drawing #cowboy #westernart #anthroart #hardworking #fediart #mastoart #art #cartoonist #heavylifting #manuallabor
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UNPAID LABOR, ALGORITHMIC DENIAL, AND SYSTEMIC SABOTAGE
May 7, 2025YouTube built an empire on our free time, our passion, our technical investments—and above all, on a promise: “share what you love, and the audience will follow.” Thousands of independent creators believed it. So did I. For ten years, I invested, produced, commented, hosted, edited, imported, repaired—with discipline, ambition, and stubborn hope, all in the shadows. What I discovered wasn’t opportunity. It was silence. A system of invisible filters, algorithmic contempt, and structural sabotage. An economic machine built on the unpaid, uncredited labor of creators who believed they had a chance. A platform that shows your video to four people, then punishes you for not being “engaging” enough. This four-part investigation details what YouTube has truly cost me—in money, in time, in mental health, and in collective momentum. Every number is cross-checked. Every claim is lived. Every example is documented. This is not a rant. It’s a report from inside the wreckage.
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INVISIBLE COMMENTS: 33,000 CONTRIBUTIONS THROWN IN THE TRASHAs part of my investigation, I decided to calculate what I’ve lost on YouTube. Not an easy task: if all my videos are shadowbanned, there’s no way to measure the value of that work through view counts. But I realized something else. The comments I leave on channels—whether they perform well or not—receive wildly different levels of visibility. It’s not unusual for one of my comments to get 500 likes and 25 replies within 24 hours. In other words, when I’m allowed to exist, I know how to draw attention.
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33,000 COMMENTS... FOR WHAT?In 10 years of using the platform, I’ve posted 33,000 comments. Each one crafted, thoughtful, polished, aimed at grabbing attention. It’s a real creative effort: to spontaneously come up with something insightful to say, every day, for a decade. I’ve contributed to the YouTube community through my likes, my reactions, my input. These comments—modest, yes, but genuine—have helped sustain and grow the platform. If each comment takes roughly 3 minutes to write, that’s 99,000 minutes of my life—60 days spent commenting non-stop. Two entire months. Two months talking into the void.
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ALGORITHMIC INVISIBILITYBy default, not all comments are shown. The “Top comments” filter displays only a select few. You have to manually click on “Newest first” to see the rest. The way "Top comments" are chosen remains vague, and there’s no indication of whether some comments are deliberately hidden. When you load a page, your own comment always appears first—but only to you. Officially, it’s for “ergonomics.” Unofficially, it gives you the illusion that your opinion matters. I estimate that, on average, one out of six comments is invisible to other users. By comparing visible and hidden replies, a simple estimate emerges: over the course of 12 months, 2 months’ worth of comments go straight to the trash.
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TWO MONTHS A YEAR WRITING INTO THE VOIDIf I’ve spent 60 days commenting over 10 years, that averages out to 6 days per year. Roughly 12 hours of writing every month. So each year, I’m condemned to 1 full day (out of 6) of content invisibilized (while 5 out of 6 remains visible), dumped into a void of discarded contributions. I’m not claiming every comment I write is essential, but the complete lack of notification and the arbitrary nature of this filtering raise both moral and legal concerns. To clarify: if two months of total usage equal 24 hours of actual writing, that’s because I don’t use YouTube continuously. These 24 hours spread across two months mean I spend about 24 minutes per day writing. And if writing time represents just one-fifth of my overall engagement — including watching — that adds up to more than 2.5 hours per day on the platform. Every single day. For ten years. That’s not passive use — it’s sustained, intensive participation. On average, this means that 15 to 20% of my time spent writing comments is dumped into a virtual landfill. In my case, that’s 24 hours of annual activity wiped out. But the proportion is what matters — it scales with your usage. You see the problem.
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THE BIG PLAYERS RISE, THE REST ARE ERASEDFrom what I’ve observed, most major YouTubers benefit from a system that automatically boosts superficial comments to the top. The algorithm favors them. It’s always the same pattern: the system benefits a few, at the expense of everyone else.
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AN IGNORED EDITORIAL VALUEIn print journalism, a 1,500-word exclusive freelance piece is typically valued at around €300. Most YouTube comments are a few lines long—maybe 25 words. Mine often exceed 250 words. That’s ten times the average length, and far more structured. They’re not throwaway reactions, but crafted contributions: thoughtful, contextual, engaging. If we apply the same rate, then 30 such comments ≈ €1,500. It’s a bold comparison—but a fair one, when you account for quality, relevance, and editorial intent. 33,000 comments = €1,650,000 of unpaid contribution to YouTube. YouTube never rewards this kind of engagement. It doesn’t promote channels where you comment frequently. The platform isn’t designed to recognize individuals. It’s designed to extract value—for itself.
¯#DigitalLabor #InvisibleWork #ContentModeration #PlatformCapitalism #TechCriticism #UserEngagement