#qmx — Public Fediverse posts

All set for a field day, the aim is to test a home-brewed vertical coil (have an EFHW as backup) with the QMX and zbitx v1, test-driving a Gigaparts POTA20 mast, and the portable ESP32 powered HAM Clock I’ve been working on with the local club. In case, all goes well, might attempt a POTA.

#fieldoperations #qrp #qmx #zbitx #amateurradio #hamradio #pota #esp

All set for a field day, the aim is to test a home-brewed vertical coil (have an EFHW as backup) with the QMX and zbitx v1, test-driving a Gigaparts POTA20 mast, and the portable ESP32 powered HAM Clock I’ve been working on with the local club. In case, all goes well, might attempt a POTA.

#fieldoperations #qrp #qmx #zbitx #amateurradio #hamradio #pota #esp

All set for a field day, the aim is to test a home-brewed vertical coil (have an EFHW as backup) with the QMX and zbitx v1, test-driving a Gigaparts POTA20 mast, and the portable ESP32 powered HAM Clock I’ve been working on with the local club. In case, all goes well, might attempt a POTA.

#fieldoperations #qrp #qmx #zbitx #amateurradio #hamradio #pota #esp

All set for a field day, the aim is to test a home-brewed vertical coil (have an EFHW as backup) with the QMX and zbitx v1, test-driving a Gigaparts POTA20 mast, and the portable ESP32 powered HAM Clock I’ve been working on with the local club. In case, all goes well, might attempt a POTA.

#fieldoperations #qrp #qmx #zbitx #amateurradio #hamradio #pota #esp

All set for a field day, the aim is to test a home-brewed vertical coil (have an EFHW as backup) with the QMX and zbitx v1, test-driving a Gigaparts POTA20 mast, and the portable ESP32 powered HAM Clock I’ve been working on with the local club. In case, all goes well, might attempt a POTA.

#fieldoperations #qrp #qmx #zbitx #amateurradio #hamradio #pota #esp

Since my #QMX broke and wsjt-x doesnt support specific #WSPR timeslots Iv build my own “TX daemon" for this. It runs in the terminal and uses the #TCI protocol.

https://github.com/tompatulpan/wspr-tci

#HamRadio #Opensource

Since my #QMX broke and wsjt-x doesnt support specific #WSPR timeslots Iv build my own “TX daemon" for this. It runs in the terminal and uses the #TCI protocol.

https://github.com/tompatulpan/wspr-tci

#HamRadio #Opensource

Since my #QMX broke and wsjt-x doesnt support specific #WSPR timeslots Iv build my own “TX daemon" for this. It runs in the terminal and uses the #TCI protocol.

https://github.com/tompatulpan/wspr-tci

#HamRadio #Opensource

Since my #QMX broke and wsjt-x doesnt support specific #WSPR timeslots Iv build my own “TX daemon" for this. It runs in the terminal and uses the #TCI protocol.

https://github.com/tompatulpan/wspr-tci

#HamRadio #Opensource

Since my #QMX broke and wsjt-x doesnt support specific #WSPR timeslots Iv build my own “TX daemon" for this. It runs in the terminal and uses the #TCI protocol.

#HamRadio #Opensource

I am very happy about my first successful #qrp #pota activation (AU-1411 - D’Aguilar National Park) today with the #qmx radio. I must have wound all the toroids correctly and put everything together the right way (phew). Amazing what this little thing can do. K6ARK's mic design worked a treat and VK4KC's Mutt 56:1 EFHW performed very well, as always. Thanks for all the contacts! #hamradio

I am very happy about my first successful #qrp #pota activation (AU-1411 - D’Aguilar National Park) today with the #qmx radio. I must have wound all the toroids correctly and put everything together the right way (phew). Amazing what this little thing can do. K6ARK's mic design worked a treat and VK4KC's Mutt 56:1 EFHW performed very well, as always. Thanks for all the contacts! #hamradio

I am very happy about my first successful #qrp #pota activation (AU-1411 - D’Aguilar National Park) today with the #qmx radio. I must have wound all the toroids correctly and put everything together the right way (phew). Amazing what this little thing can do. K6ARK's mic design worked a treat and VK4KC's Mutt 56:1 EFHW performed very well, as always. Thanks for all the contacts! #hamradio

I am very happy about my first successful #qrp #pota activation (AU-1411 - D’Aguilar National Park) today with the #qmx radio. I must have wound all the toroids correctly and put everything together the right way (phew). Amazing what this little thing can do. K6ARK's mic design worked a treat and VK4KC's Mutt 56:1 EFHW performed very well, as always. Thanks for all the contacts! #hamradio

I am very happy about my first successful #qrp #pota activation (AU-1411 - D’Aguilar National Park) today with the #qmx radio. I must have wound all the toroids correctly and put everything together the right way (phew). Amazing what this little thing can do. K6ARK's mic design worked a treat and VK4KC's Mutt 56:1 EFHW performed very well, as always. Thanks for all the contacts! #hamradio

A Linear-Loaded Monopole antenna for hiking

There is a lot of information online about Linear-Loaded Dipoles, but I haven’t found anything at all about cutting a Linear-Loaded Dipole in half to create a Linear-Loaded Monopole worked against ground. The legendary L.B. Cebik (W4RNL, SK) published a design philosophy for an 80m Linear-Loaded Monopole, but it didn’t match what I had in mind. So I decided to build one for the purpose of experimentation. Maybe I could make it into a compact, lightweight antenna capable of rapid deployment while hiking – maybe.

What is Linear-Loading?

According to my search engine’s “Search Assist”, “Linear loading is a technique used in antenna design where a portion of the antenna wire is folded back on itself to reduce its overall length while maintaining good electrical performance. This method allows for a shorter antenna that can still operate effectively on the desired frequency.”

Sounds very simple doesn’t it? In the real world, where the RF hits the ether, it gets a little more complicated – especially when venturing outside the box. I could have made life nice and simple by building a Linear-Loaded Dipole; there are lots of designs available online that I could have used. But a dipole is too large for agile, rapid deployments; it needs a taller pole which, in turn, requires pegging into the ground and guy wires. I could use a tree limb for support, but only if suitable trees are available; often they are not. No, my requirement for a very simple hiking antenna implies a vertical antenna – a short vertical antenna.

Short antennas are easy to build; simply add a loading coil at the base and Bob’s your uncle. But that won’t qualify for my purposes. Short loaded antennas have a reduced radiation resistance and ohmic loss in the coil – they are inefficient. So how to shorten an antenna while maintaining efficiency? That’s where linear loading comes into play. A linear-loaded antenna is almost as efficient as a regular version.

How to build a Linear-Loaded Monopole?

It should have been “EZ-PZ”. Just take the dimensions from any of the online designs for a Linear-Loaded Dipole and cut them in half. That’s where I started. For a 20 meter antenna, a length of around 11 feet of window line, shorted at one end, is a good starting point. I hauled it up the mast in my newly glacier-free backyard, attached a counterpoise wire and started trimming. Between snips the resonant frequency was monitored on my RigExpert antenna analyzer. I use the term “resonant frequency” loosely in this context. The expected impedance of a quarter-wave vertical is around 37 ohms which implies there will be some reactive component to the impedance. I searched for a dip in SWR over a wide frequency range until it was possible to locate where the antenna was “resonant”.

So long John?

A low SWR in the region of the bottom end of the 20 meter band was the target, but the dip in the curve was below the bottom of the band – way below. I snipped and snipped until that dip fell where it was needed. Then the counterpoise length was adjusted until the lowest SWR was obtained. How long was my ladder line? A large pile of snipped ladder line lay on the grass beneath the pole. When I took the antenna down, laid it out on the ground and measured its length it was quite a surprise to see the ladder line radiator was only 8.67ft (2.64m) long. And the counterpoise length was 18ft (5.5m).

Jingo-la-ba!

Will it QSO? I fired a smidgen less than five watts into it and received a response from a station somewhere in the US with an encouraging signal report. Well, at least it “works”. But now came the next step. That pesky 18ft counterpoise had to go, to be replaced with the 2T2C (Tuned Tank Circuit Coupler) described in the last post.

A new challenge

The 2T2C ground coupler was directly connected to the ground side of the short coax feedline and a further wire was added to connect to a small capacitance plate on the ground. Life is complicated and then you die, so why do I insist on adding more complications? It’s called experimentation – experiment and learn! I learned. I learned that my choice of inductance and capacitance for the 2T2C resulted in impossibly sharp tuning of the ground circuit. The 2T2C needed a design modification to reduce the inductance and increase the capacitance. Spreadsheet modeling suggested this would make the 2T2C easier to adjust. I needed to confirm that before rebuilding the 2T2C, but how?

L-match innovation

The answer came in the form of a variable L-match that I built quite recently. It has switch selectable inductors and a variable capacitor. It could be adapted to fit this bill very nicely.

This idea was inspired by VK3YE who published a YouTube video about it some time ago. At one terminal of the L-match a connection is made to the BNC center conductor. At the other terminal, a connection is made to the shield side of the BNC. If you trace the signal path through the device it can be seen that the inductors and capacitor are in series. Now we have a Ground Tuning Unit (GTU) and can use binary selection of the inductances, together with rotating the variable capacitor, to determine the combination of inductance and capacitance for easiest tuning of the ground connection.

The inductances available on my L-match are 0.5, 1, 2, 4, 8 microhenries, allowing the inductance to be varied up to 15.5 microhenries in 0.5 microhenry increments. The variable capacitor is a 30-160pF polyvaricon.

Now, with the 8.67ft linear-loaded vertical erected and the “L-match GTU” making the ground connection via a capacitance plate on the ground, it was easy to select values that would allow smooth adjustment of the antenna SWR. It was found that 1 or 1.5 microhenries worked best. With these values selected the polyvaricon could be adjusted around mid-range to easily select best SWR.

A caution!

There’s a gotcha with this technique. My L-match has a switch to connect the top end of the variable capacitor to either the input or output. This is used to enable fast selection of either high or low impedance antennas. Referring to the diagram above, if the switch (not shown) is set to connect the variable capacitor to the left side of the inductors, this technique will not work. The inductors will be out of circuit and only the variable capacitor will be in circuit.

Will it still QSO?

My low-band QMX was dug out of its field pack and hooked up to the revised antenna (8.67ft of vertical window line with the “L-match GTU” providing the “other half” of the antenna. Using the “Tune SWR” feature of the QMX, the best SWR of 1.36:1 was obtained by a very small adjustment of the variable capacitor in the L-match GTU. Then it was time to go hunting. My best contact was in the state of Arizona (the “Arid Zone”?) almost 3000km away from my station in Southern Ontario. Signal reports were 599 each way. My sent report was a genuine 599 suggesting the antenna has good ears. The 599 report I received may have been genuine or perhaps it was just a “contest report”. In any event a good solid contact was made. A second contact into North Carolina only yielded a 549 signal report, but perhaps the low angle radiation pattern favored longer distance contacts.

Notice that the L-match GTU has no RF current meter. I could perhaps have inserted my home brewed RF current meter in circuit, but it wasn’t really necessary. Adjusting the ground current also regulates the radiating element current. Simply adjusting for lowest SWR indication on the radio peaks the radiated energy.

For practical outdoor use while hiking through the woods and rapidly deploying the antenna in clearings, the L-match GTU will be replaced with a much smaller series L-C coupler (2T2C). A 13ft Crappie pole is used to support the antenna. It collapses to the perfect length for carrying inside a fishing pole bag (no surprise there then) and is very lightweight.

There’s another gotcha

When the current distribution on the antenna was viewed in EZNEC it was discovered that the current maximum is in the ground circuit instead of in the radiator. Just like any ground-mounted antenna, this can lead to ground losses and inefficiency. However, the primary design objective was not to seek a Nobel Prize in antenna physics, but to come up with a design that meets the objective of a rapid deployment, simple antenna for hiking through the woods. The Linear-Loaded Monopole may just meet that requirement, but I have other ideas to try first. Stay tuned.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

A Linear-Loaded Monopole antenna for hiking

There is a lot of information online about Linear-Loaded Dipoles, but I haven’t found anything at all about cutting a Linear-Loaded Dipole in half to create a Linear-Loaded Monopole worked against ground. The legendary L.B. Cebik (W4RNL, SK) published a design philosophy for an 80m Linear-Loaded Monopole, but it didn’t match what I had in mind. So I decided to build one for the purpose of experimentation. Maybe I could make it into a compact, lightweight antenna capable of rapid deployment while hiking – maybe.

What is Linear-Loading?

According to my search engine’s “Search Assist”, “Linear loading is a technique used in antenna design where a portion of the antenna wire is folded back on itself to reduce its overall length while maintaining good electrical performance. This method allows for a shorter antenna that can still operate effectively on the desired frequency.”

Sounds very simple doesn’t it? In the real world, where the RF hits the ether, it gets a little more complicated – especially when venturing outside the box. I could have made life nice and simple by building a Linear-Loaded Dipole; there are lots of designs available online that I could have used. But a dipole is too large for agile, rapid deployments; it needs a taller pole which, in turn, requires pegging into the ground and guy wires. I could use a tree limb for support, but only if suitable trees are available; often they are not. No, my requirement for a very simple hiking antenna implies a vertical antenna – a short vertical antenna.

Short antennas are easy to build; simply add a loading coil at the base and Bob’s your uncle. But that won’t qualify for my purposes. Short loaded antennas have a reduced radiation resistance and ohmic loss in the coil – they are inefficient. So how to shorten an antenna while maintaining efficiency? That’s where linear loading comes into play. A linear-loaded antenna is almost as efficient as a regular version.

How to build a Linear-Loaded Monopole?

It should have been “EZ-PZ”. Just take the dimensions from any of the online designs for a Linear-Loaded Dipole and cut them in half. That’s where I started. For a 20 meter antenna, a length of around 11 feet of window line, shorted at one end, is a good starting point. I hauled it up the mast in my newly glacier-free backyard, attached a counterpoise wire and started trimming. Between snips the resonant frequency was monitored on my RigExpert antenna analyzer. I use the term “resonant frequency” loosely in this context. The expected impedance of a quarter-wave vertical is around 37 ohms which implies there will be some reactive component to the impedance. I searched for a dip in SWR over a wide frequency range until it was possible to locate where the antenna was “resonant”.

So long John?

A low SWR in the region of the bottom end of the 20 meter band was the target, but the dip in the curve was below the bottom of the band – way below. I snipped and snipped until that dip fell where it was needed. Then the counterpoise length was adjusted until the lowest SWR was obtained. How long was my ladder line? A large pile of snipped ladder line lay on the grass beneath the pole. When I took the antenna down, laid it out on the ground and measured its length it was quite a surprise to see the ladder line radiator was only 8.67ft (2.64m) long. And the counterpoise length was 18ft (5.5m).

Jingo-la-ba!

Will it QSO? I fired a smidgen less than five watts into it and received a response from a station somewhere in the US with an encouraging signal report. Well, at least it “works”. But now came the next step. That pesky 18ft counterpoise had to go, to be replaced with the 2T2C (Tuned Tank Circuit Coupler) described in the last post.

A new challenge

The 2T2C ground coupler was directly connected to the ground side of the short coax feedline and a further wire was added to connect to a small capacitance plate on the ground. Life is complicated and then you die, so why do I insist on adding more complications? It’s called experimentation – experiment and learn! I learned. I learned that my choice of inductance and capacitance for the 2T2C resulted in impossibly sharp tuning of the ground circuit. The 2T2C needed a design modification to reduce the inductance and increase the capacitance. Spreadsheet modeling suggested this would make the 2T2C easier to adjust. I needed to confirm that before rebuilding the 2T2C, but how?

L-match innovation

The answer came in the form of a variable L-match that I built quite recently. It has switch selectable inductors and a variable capacitor. It could be adapted to fit this bill very nicely.

This idea was inspired by VK3YE who published a YouTube video about it some time ago. At one terminal of the L-match a connection is made to the BNC center conductor. At the other terminal, a connection is made to the shield side of the BNC. If you trace the signal path through the device it can be seen that the inductors and capacitor are in series. Now we have a Ground Tuning Unit (GTU) and can use binary selection of the inductances, together with rotating the variable capacitor, to determine the combination of inductance and capacitance for easiest tuning of the ground connection.

The inductances available on my L-match are 0.5, 1, 2, 4, 8 microhenries, allowing the inductance to be varied up to 15.5 microhenries in 0.5 microhenry increments. The variable capacitor is a 30-160pF polyvaricon.

Now, with the 8.67ft linear-loaded vertical erected and the “L-match GTU” making the ground connection via a capacitance plate on the ground, it was easy to select values that would allow smooth adjustment of the antenna SWR. It was found that 1 or 1.5 microhenries worked best. With these values selected the polyvaricon could be adjusted around mid-range to easily select best SWR.

A caution!

There’s a gotcha with this technique. My L-match has a switch to connect the top end of the variable capacitor to either the input or output. This is used to enable fast selection of either high or low impedance antennas. Referring to the diagram above, if the switch (not shown) is set to connect the variable capacitor to the left side of the inductors, this technique will not work. The inductors will be out of circuit and only the variable capacitor will be in circuit.

Will it still QSO?

My low-band QMX was dug out of its field pack and hooked up to the revised antenna (8.67ft of vertical window line with the “L-match GTU” providing the “other half” of the antenna. Using the “Tune SWR” feature of the QMX, the best SWR of 1.36:1 was obtained by a very small adjustment of the variable capacitor in the L-match GTU. Then it was time to go hunting. My best contact was in the state of Arizona (the “Arid Zone”?) almost 3000km away from my station in Southern Ontario. Signal reports were 599 each way. My sent report was a genuine 599 suggesting the antenna has good ears. The 599 report I received may have been genuine or perhaps it was just a “contest report”. In any event a good solid contact was made. A second contact into North Carolina only yielded a 549 signal report, but perhaps the low angle radiation pattern favored longer distance contacts.

Notice that the L-match GTU has no RF current meter. I could perhaps have inserted my home brewed RF current meter in circuit, but it wasn’t really necessary. Adjusting the ground current also regulates the radiating element current. Simply adjusting for lowest SWR indication on the radio peaks the radiated energy.

For practical outdoor use while hiking through the woods and rapidly deploying the antenna in clearings, the L-match GTU will be replaced with a much smaller series L-C coupler (2T2C). A 13ft Crappie pole is used to support the antenna. It collapses to the perfect length for carrying inside a fishing pole bag (no surprise there then) and is very lightweight.

There’s another gotcha

When the current distribution on the antenna was viewed in EZNEC it was discovered that the current maximum is in the ground circuit instead of in the radiator. Just like any ground-mounted antenna, this can lead to ground losses and inefficiency. However, the primary design objective was not to seek a Nobel Prize in antenna physics, but to come up with a design that meets the objective of a rapid deployment, simple antenna for hiking through the woods. The Linear-Loaded Monopole may just meet that requirement, but I have other ideas to try first. Stay tuned.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

Yay, it worked first time! #QRPLabs #QMX #QRP #HamRadio #AmateurRadio #AmateurFunk

Yay, it worked first time! #QRPLabs #QMX #QRP #HamRadio #AmateurRadio #AmateurFunk

Yay, it worked first time! #QRPLabs #QMX #QRP #HamRadio #AmateurRadio #AmateurFunk

Yay, it worked first time! #QRPLabs #QMX #QRP #HamRadio #AmateurRadio #AmateurFunk

Yay, it worked first time! #QRPLabs #QMX #QRP #HamRadio #AmateurRadio #AmateurFunk

Made a start on my #QRPLabs #QMX #AmateurRadio Transceiver today. Glad I have an #Optivisor, as it’s very compact! #QRP #HamRadio #AmateurFunk

Made a start on my #QRPLabs #QMX #AmateurRadio Transceiver today. Glad I have an #Optivisor, as it’s very compact! #QRP #HamRadio #AmateurFunk

Made a start on my #QRPLabs #QMX #AmateurRadio Transceiver today. Glad I have an #Optivisor, as it’s very compact! #QRP #HamRadio #AmateurFunk

Made a start on my #QRPLabs #QMX #AmateurRadio Transceiver today. Glad I have an #Optivisor, as it’s very compact! #QRP #HamRadio #AmateurFunk

Made a start on my #QRPLabs #QMX #AmateurRadio Transceiver today. Glad I have an #Optivisor, as it’s very compact! #QRP #HamRadio #AmateurFunk

#SSB on the #QRPLabs #QMX+ 5W HF transceiver is just so unnecessarily painful. The built-in microphone doesn't work. Standard microphones don't work.

The very specific microphone capsule required goes for 21 € inc. shipping from Digikey. A finished microphone assembly by G7UFO is 41,85 € inc. shipping. The whole QMX+ kit is only 125 USD, on comparison.

I have revision 4 of the PCB. Really would have expected it to have been fixed to take any microphone by now, or come with the microphone.

#SSB on the #QRPLabs #QMX+ 5W HF transceiver is just so unnecessarily painful. The built-in microphone doesn't work. Standard microphones don't work.

The very specific microphone capsule required goes for 21 € inc. shipping from Digikey. A finished microphone assembly by G7UFO is 41,85 € inc. shipping. The whole QMX+ kit is only 125 USD, on comparison.

I have revision 4 of the PCB. Really would have expected it to have been fixed to take any microphone by now, or come with the microphone.

#SSB on the #QRPLabs #QMX+ 5W HF transceiver is just so unnecessarily painful. The built-in microphone doesn't work. Standard microphones don't work.

The very specific microphone capsule required goes for 21 € inc. shipping from Digikey. A finished microphone assembly by G7UFO is 41,85 € inc. shipping. The whole QMX+ kit is only 125 USD, on comparison.

I have revision 4 of the PCB. Really would have expected it to have been fixed to take any microphone by now, or come with the microphone.

#SSB on the #QRPLabs #QMX+ 5W HF transceiver is just so unnecessarily painful. The built-in microphone doesn't work. Standard microphones don't work.

The very specific microphone capsule required goes for 21 € inc. shipping from Digikey. A finished microphone assembly by G7UFO is 41,85 € inc. shipping. The whole QMX+ kit is only 125 USD, on comparison.

I have revision 4 of the PCB. Really would have expected it to have been fixed to take any microphone by now, or come with the microphone.

#SSB on the #QRPLabs #QMX+ 5W HF transceiver is just so unnecessarily painful. The built-in microphone doesn't work. Standard microphones don't work.

The very specific microphone capsule required goes for 21 € inc. shipping from Digikey. A finished microphone assembly by G7UFO is 41,85 € inc. shipping. The whole QMX+ kit is only 125 USD, on comparison.

I have revision 4 of the PCB. Really would have expected it to have been fixed to take any microphone by now, or come with the microphone.

Je suis très content que mon couvercle du transceiver QMX fasse son bout de chemin sur internet.
Je l'avais mis en 2024 en Creative Commons - Attribution - Non-Commercial license.
Et franchement c'est vraiment super cool de voir le projet évoluer et s'améliorer au fur et à mesure des partages vidéos sur YouTube tout autour du monde.
QMX cover and desk stand for hamradio POTA SOTA by F4EGX
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6599009
#hamradio #QMX labs #qrp

Je suis très content que mon couvercle du transceiver QMX fasse son bout de chemin sur internet.
Je l'avais mis en 2024 en Creative Commons - Attribution - Non-Commercial license.
Et franchement c'est vraiment super cool de voir le projet évoluer et s'améliorer au fur et à mesure des partages vidéos sur YouTube tout autour du monde.
QMX cover and desk stand for hamradio POTA SOTA by F4EGX
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6599009
#hamradio #QMX labs #qrp

My FT-891 has been retired from POTA service … why?

Following high level, wide-ranging, bilateral talks with senior management (XYL) a far-reaching, binding agreement was today handed down to me. The focus of the agreement is contained in the executive summary which reads: “ya got enough radios already”.

And it’s true

I own more radios than I really use. Nearly all of my radios are of the vintage variety. The sole exception is my QRP Labs QMX. The QMX is unique in that it is an SDR radio so it can be updated as needed. One day, perhaps, even the hardware will become obsolete although it is more likely to succumb to the fragility of its low-cost construction – or the indelicate treatment to which it is subjected in the rigorous outdoor environment where I like to operate.

Radios become obsolete quite quickly as technologies evolve. Many modern rigs incorporate what I like to call a “fish finder” – a waterfall display enabling an operator to “catch” another station with a simple tap on a touchscreen. Fantastic yes, but is it just “nice to have” or an essential convenience for modern operating?

Most of my own outdoor operations are related to POTA. Once out in the Big Blue Sky Shack, preferably far from the madding crowd, in a location accessible only via Shanks’ Pony (an old Scottish expression – “shanks” are legs), I set up my station, find an open frequency, call CQ and work the hunters until they quit coming. What level of technological sophistication does that require? Even a very basic, unsophisticated, boat anchor rig can accomplish that. Does it really require a “fish finder”? Well, a fish finder would be nice, but spinning the dial and listening up for active stations worked for many years. Wanna go high tech? Check the clusters on a mobile phone.

Technological advances can even be detrimental. Remember old tube rigs? They were robust (until the tubes needed replacing). Tube rig operators never had to obsess about SWR. High SWR in a modern radio can result in voltage peaks that can send delicate FET PA transistors to the semiconductor cemetery. Sure tubes (or “thermionic valves” as they are known in the Land of Hope and Glory) can be big and fragile. I remember, when I was a kid exploring the thrill of electromagnetrickery, I owned a receiver with tiny, wire-ended tubes. But this isn’t a post about boat anchor technology – no matter how our romanticized recollections of youth bring out fond memories of days gone by.

Back to the future

I bought my Yaesu FT-891 a few short years ago based on recommendations I read online. I wanted a radio that would pack a punch and make getting QSOs from a campsite almost a sure thing. I remember self-spotting on the POTA website with the comment “100 watts!”. I wanted to attract hunters who wouldn’t have to struggle to hear me. A hundred watts for a CW signal is equivalent to AM broadcast signal strength compared to SSB. Alright, I exaggerate, but it quickly occurred to me that a QRP CW signal into an efficient antenna would get the job done equally well. Since that time I have rarely strayed from QRP – or sometimes QROp (20 watts for a 1 S-unit signal boost) when conditions are bad.

The Yaesu FT-891 is an interesting radio. It’s compact format makes it easy to carry into the field, but also has a downside. Small radios bury most of their impressive set of features in layers of menus. And the FT-891 has an impressive set of features. Audio bandwidth can be set as wide as the mighty Mississippi or as tight as Scrooge’s purse strings. Zero beating the other station’s frequency can be accomplished in a single button press if the “ZIN” function is programmed to one of the A, B, C buttons on the front panel. Then pressing the <F> key repeatedly brings up another four layers of menus. These menus allow the operator to select and adjust other levels of IF filtering like “APF – Audio Peak Filter”, “CNT – Contour”, “SFT – IF shift”, “IPO – Intercept Point Optimization” and “NCH – Notch”.

Filters can get you into trouble

During one POTA activation I recall hearing a hunter respond to me, but his signal sounded like a series of atmospheric clicks. “What the heck is that?” I remember thinking. “Is he testing whether I can copy railroad code?” (I can’t). I set my RIT (Receiver Incremental Tuning) a little off frequency and suddenly his signal was perfectly clear. The problem was my filter was set too narrow. Responding to an activator a little away from zero beat is a technique often used to stand out in a pile-up; it works in SSB too. Since my filter was too narrow the hunter’s signal was just outside my passband. Some CW operators are able to use the filter between their ears to separate a signal in a busy band. It takes some concentration – more than I have.

Tis a gift to be simple

All those menus are such fun to play with while working a pile-up out in the back country with mosquitoes, deer flies and other winged pestilences trying to have lunch on the back of your neck. As you swing an arm wildly to crush the airborne assault your CW key crashes to the forest floor and the contacts fill with wet sand and soil turning dits and dahs into incomprehensible gibberish. The hunters have fled and you are back to sending CQ trying to entice them to return. Wouldn’t it be nice to have a simple radio instead?

It get’s worse

It’s fine and dandy reducing a QRO rig’s power to peanut level. On the FT-891 it’s a simple matter of holding the <F> key down for 2 seconds, rotating the Multifunction knob to select section 16 of the Mariana Trench level menus, then choosing which of the six HF power sub-menus to adjust. Then click the Multifunction knob again, rotate it to the desired power output, from 5 watts to 100 watts; click the <F> key again and in no time at all you’re all set.

But there’s still a problem. The FT-891, like many other QRO radios adjusted for low power, still sucks power out of your battery like a camel filling its hump before a trek across the desert. The FT-891 draws over 5 amps even when the output power is wound down to 5 watts. By contrast, the QMX and other QRP radios can run when powered by a tiny 9 volt alkaline battery.

Big eyes, small wallet

Twenty years ago I worked for a few months in a Toronto establishment known to local hams as “the candy store”. Every day I had every one of the big Japanese manufacturers radios to play with. The staff were encouraged to become familiar with all the radios on display so that we could offer expert advice to customers. My big wide eyes fell on one particular radio from Yaesu; it was the FT-897 – a radio that I began to covet but couldn’t afford to buy at that time. I left that employment to start my own business and after a while I had the funds to buy that rig.

The Yaesu FT-897 is a big and chunky, yet rugged looking QRO radio that was intended for use in the field. I used it as a base station radio instead and it served that purpose until quite recently. It is old-tech now but maybe that’s a bit of an advantage. You see, it is relatively simple compared to the later FT-891. The FT-897 was introduced before IF filtering was widely available to the low budget ham market. Instead it has audio frequency filtering – accessible from the front panel – that works remarkably well. I can narrow the CW receive bandwidth down to 60Hz (danger of missing calls), 120Hz or 240Hz very easily without diving deep into a menu system.

The FT-897 does not integrate very well with common programs like FLrig and FLdigi. Too few functions can be controlled with CAT commands – unlike the newer FT-891. So the momentous decision was made to switch the two radios. Who cares if it takes a lot of clicks, twiddles and turns to select a desired feature on the FT-891 if the clicks, twiddles and turns are replaced with on-screen slider controls? The FT-891 is now my shack radio and I am very happy with it in this role. My XYL is equally happy that we don’t have to have another full and frank discussion about my urge to deplete our retirement savings to buy yet another whizz-bang box of tricks that will only keep me happy until the next whizz-bang box appears.

And the old FT-897? Is that going to be my regular portable rig now? Sorry old fella, you’re still a little hungry on battery amps. Maybe field day, perhaps.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#amateurRadio #CW #FT891 #FT897 #OutdoorOps #POTA #QMX

My FT-891 has been retired from POTA service … why?

Following high level, wide-ranging, bilateral talks with senior management (XYL) a far-reaching, binding agreement was today handed down to me. The focus of the agreement is contained in the executive summary which reads: “ya got enough radios already”.

And it’s true

I own more radios than I really use. Nearly all of my radios are of the vintage variety. The sole exception is my QRP Labs QMX. The QMX is unique in that it is an SDR radio so it can be updated as needed. One day, perhaps, even the hardware will become obsolete although it is more likely to succumb to the fragility of its low-cost construction – or the indelicate treatment to which it is subjected in the rigorous outdoor environment where I like to operate.

Radios become obsolete quite quickly as technologies evolve. Many modern rigs incorporate what I like to call a “fish finder” – a waterfall display enabling an operator to “catch” another station with a simple tap on a touchscreen. Fantastic yes, but is it just “nice to have” or an essential convenience for modern operating?

Most of my own outdoor operations are related to POTA. Once out in the Big Blue Sky Shack, preferably far from the madding crowd, in a location accessible only via Shanks’ Pony (an old Scottish expression – “shanks” are legs), I set up my station, find an open frequency, call CQ and work the hunters until they quit coming. What level of technological sophistication does that require? Even a very basic, unsophisticated, boat anchor rig can accomplish that. Does it really require a “fish finder”? Well, a fish finder would be nice, but spinning the dial and listening up for active stations worked for many years. Wanna go high tech? Check the clusters on a mobile phone.

Technological advances can even be detrimental. Remember old tube rigs? They were robust (until the tubes needed replacing). Tube rig operators never had to obsess about SWR. High SWR in a modern radio can result in voltage peaks that can send delicate FET PA transistors to the semiconductor cemetery. Sure tubes (or “thermionic valves” as they are known in the Land of Hope and Glory) can be big and fragile. I remember, when I was a kid exploring the thrill of electromagnetrickery, I owned a receiver with tiny, wire-ended tubes. But this isn’t a post about boat anchor technology – no matter how our romanticized recollections of youth bring out fond memories of days gone by.

Back to the future

I bought my Yaesu FT-891 a few short years ago based on recommendations I read online. I wanted a radio that would pack a punch and make getting QSOs from a campsite almost a sure thing. I remember self-spotting on the POTA website with the comment “100 watts!”. I wanted to attract hunters who wouldn’t have to struggle to hear me. A hundred watts for a CW signal is equivalent to AM broadcast signal strength compared to SSB. Alright, I exaggerate, but it quickly occurred to me that a QRP CW signal into an efficient antenna would get the job done equally well. Since that time I have rarely strayed from QRP – or sometimes QROp (20 watts for a 1 S-unit signal boost) when conditions are bad.

The Yaesu FT-891 is an interesting radio. It’s compact format makes it easy to carry into the field, but also has a downside. Small radios bury most of their impressive set of features in layers of menus. And the FT-891 has an impressive set of features. Audio bandwidth can be set as wide as the mighty Mississippi or as tight as Scrooge’s purse strings. Zero beating the other station’s frequency can be accomplished in a single button press if the “ZIN” function is programmed to one of the A, B, C buttons on the front panel. Then pressing the <F> key repeatedly brings up another four layers of menus. These menus allow the operator to select and adjust other levels of IF filtering like “APF – Audio Peak Filter”, “CNT – Contour”, “SFT – IF shift”, “IPO – Intercept Point Optimization” and “NCH – Notch”.

Filters can get you into trouble

During one POTA activation I recall hearing a hunter respond to me, but his signal sounded like a series of atmospheric clicks. “What the heck is that?” I remember thinking. “Is he testing whether I can copy railroad code?” (I can’t). I set my RIT (Receiver Incremental Tuning) a little off frequency and suddenly his signal was perfectly clear. The problem was my filter was set too narrow. Responding to an activator a little away from zero beat is a technique often used to stand out in a pile-up; it works in SSB too. Since my filter was too narrow the hunter’s signal was just outside my passband. Some CW operators are able to use the filter between their ears to separate a signal in a busy band. It takes some concentration – more than I have.

Tis a gift to be simple

All those menus are such fun to play with while working a pile-up out in the back country with mosquitoes, deer flies and other winged pestilences trying to have lunch on the back of your neck. As you swing an arm wildly to crush the airborne assault your CW key crashes to the forest floor and the contacts fill with wet sand and soil turning dits and dahs into incomprehensible gibberish. The hunters have fled and you are back to sending CQ trying to entice them to return. Wouldn’t it be nice to have a simple radio instead?

It get’s worse

It’s fine and dandy reducing a QRO rig’s power to peanut level. On the FT-891 it’s a simple matter of holding the <F> key down for 2 seconds, rotating the Multifunction knob to select section 16 of the Mariana Trench level menus, then choosing which of the six HF power sub-menus to adjust. Then click the Multifunction knob again, rotate it to the desired power output, from 5 watts to 100 watts; click the <F> key again and in no time at all you’re all set.

But there’s still a problem. The FT-891, like many other QRO radios adjusted for low power, still sucks power out of your battery like a camel filling its hump before a trek across the desert. The FT-891 draws over 5 amps even when the output power is wound down to 5 watts. By contrast, the QMX and other QRP radios can run when powered by a tiny 9 volt alkaline battery.

Big eyes, small wallet

Twenty years ago I worked for a few months in a Toronto establishment known to local hams as “the candy store”. Every day I had every one of the big Japanese manufacturers radios to play with. The staff were encouraged to become familiar with all the radios on display so that we could offer expert advice to customers. My big wide eyes fell on one particular radio from Yaesu; it was the FT-897 – a radio that I began to covet but couldn’t afford to buy at that time. I left that employment to start my own business and after a while I had the funds to buy that rig.

The Yaesu FT-897 is a big and chunky, yet rugged looking QRO radio that was intended for use in the field. I used it as a base station radio instead and it served that purpose until quite recently. It is old-tech now but maybe that’s a bit of an advantage. You see, it is relatively simple compared to the later FT-891. The FT-897 was introduced before IF filtering was widely available to the low budget ham market. Instead it has audio frequency filtering – accessible from the front panel – that works remarkably well. I can narrow the CW receive bandwidth down to 60Hz (danger of missing calls), 120Hz or 240Hz very easily without diving deep into a menu system.

The FT-897 does not integrate very well with common programs like FLrig and FLdigi. Too few functions can be controlled with CAT commands – unlike the newer FT-891. So the momentous decision was made to switch the two radios. Who cares if it takes a lot of clicks, twiddles and turns to select a desired feature on the FT-891 if the clicks, twiddles and turns are replaced with on-screen slider controls? The FT-891 is now my shack radio and I am very happy with it in this role. My XYL is equally happy that we don’t have to have another full and frank discussion about my urge to deplete our retirement savings to buy yet another whizz-bang box of tricks that will only keep me happy until the next whizz-bang box appears.

And the old FT-897? Is that going to be my regular portable rig now? Sorry old fella, you’re still a little hungry on battery amps. Maybe field day, perhaps.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#amateurRadio #CW #FT891 #FT897 #OutdoorOps #POTA #QMX

Low pass filters wound and soldered. Getting there… #QMX #kitbuild #hamradio

Low pass filters wound and soldered. Getting there… #QMX #kitbuild #hamradio

@geobomatic @NuclearSquid Plutôt que de faire un clavier à 4 rangées qui serait trop proche des classiques existants, je pousse l’idée de faire un clavier ultra-simple :
– quasiment ortholinéaire
– TOUTES les touches alphanumériques ISO en accès direct (donc 7 colonnes sous la main droite)
– un seul layer pour les flèches, le pavé numérique, les touches F1‑12, etc.
– monobloc splittable

… bref, un successeur au #TypeMatrix, polyvalent gaming et dactylographie.

3/3

#QuackMatrix #QMx

@geobomatic @NuclearSquid Plutôt que de faire un clavier à 4 rangées qui serait trop proche des classiques existants, je pousse l’idée de faire un clavier ultra-simple :
– quasiment ortholinéaire
– TOUTES les touches alphanumériques ISO en accès direct (donc 7 colonnes sous la main droite)
– un seul layer pour les flèches, le pavé numérique, les touches F1‑12, etc.
– monobloc splittable

… bref, un successeur au #TypeMatrix, polyvalent gaming et dactylographie.

3/3

#QuackMatrix #QMx

On est vraiment désolé pour ce retard, et on espère qu’il ne vous impactera pas trop.

Si on avait fait ça professionnellement, ça aurait été bouclé fin décembre plutôt que mi-janvier. Mais voilà, nous sommes des amateurs qui bossons bénévolement sur notre temps libre, et notre électronicien (@NuclearSquid) avait bêtement des partiels à réviser et à valider… On a donc fait le choix de lui foutre la paix, et d’attendre la fin de ses examens pour l’embêter. Il a consacré un temps complètement fou sur le projet (sans parler d’#Ergol !), et on fait en sorte qu’il ne parte pas en burn-out.

Les protos nécessaires à la mise au point ont un coût, mais la générosité des Ergonautes qui ont passé commande nous permet de l’absorber. Le plus important à nos yeux, c’est qu’on ait une base électronique solide, non seulement pour ce #QuackenFlex en cours, mais aussi pour le projet #QuackMatrix / #QMx qui est dans nos cartons.

On est vraiment désolé pour ce retard, et on espère qu’il ne vous impactera pas trop.

Si on avait fait ça professionnellement, on aurait pu faire ça fin décembre plutôt que mi-janvier. Mais voilà, nous sommes des amateurs qui bossons bénévolement sur notre temps libre, et notre électronicien (@NuclearSquid) avait bêtement des partiels à réviser et à valider… On a donc fait le choix de lui foutre la paix, et d’attendre la fin de ses examens pour l’embêter. Il a consacré un temps complètement fou sur le projet (sans parler d’#Ergol !), et on fait en sorte qu’il ne parte pas en burn-out.

Les protos nécessaires à la mise au point ont un coût, mais la générosité des Ergonautes qui ont passé commande nous permet de l’absorber. Le plus important à nos yeux, c’est qu’on ait une base électronique solide, non seulement pour ce #QuackenFlex en cours, mais aussi pour le projet #QuackMatrix / #QMx qui est dans nos cartons.

KD5ZZU’s very elegant build of “Old Barebones” – a Z-match tuner

Back in October 2024 I wrote a post with the title “Old Barebones” – A QRP Z-match Builder Project. The project’s purpose was to construct a simplified version of the Norcal Z-match tuner (which I also owned) to use with my QRP Labs QMX transceiver. The Norcal tuner included some features that I simply did not need – such as balanced transmission line terminals, a simple LED SWR indicator and three switches (Balanced line/BNC, Tune/Operate, High/Low impedance). The schematic was copied from the Norcal tuner – a superb design that I didn’t think I could improve. The end result was a very simple device with three BNC connectors, a toroidal inductor and two polyvaricons, all packaged in a small Amazonian plastic enclosure. Alright, it is an ugly device mainly due to the inelegant knobs I chose to use. But it works very well indeed and has become my main QRP portable antenna matching unit. Heck, it cost me a big fat nothing to build thanks to my extensive junque box stocked from years spent hoarding miscellaneous bits and pieces. When I have finished twiddling the knobs I can always put my hat over it to hide its lack of elegance.

Then, out of the blue, I received an email from Mallory KD5ZZU who expressed an interest in building her own version of “Old Barebones”. Mallory queried whether the design would work on the high bands. I had only tested mine on 20m, 30m and 40m, so I hooked it up to my home 80m EFHW and my portable 13ft tripod vertical antennas to test whether a low SWR could be achieved with Old Barebones on 17m, 15m 12m and 10m. Fortunately Old Barebones did a splendid job on both antennas so Mallory took the plunge and built her own version.

Note: My 80m EFHW (End-Fed Half Wave) is used primarily on 80m but is also useful on 40m and 20m. Using a tuner to obtain a low SWR on the higher bands protects the radio from high SWR but does not imply that the antenna is useful on those bands.

Mallory experienced a hitch in the construction though. Her first build did not function as expected and she asked for ideas on what to look for to resolve the problem. It turned out to be the connections to the polyvaricons that were the problem. Polyvaricons often have several sets of vanes and multiple connection points. I had used a capacitance meter to identify the correct connections in my original build. Realizing this may be the problem, Mallory quickly identified the correct connections and got her tuner working. She wrote that she was able to achieve a nice low SWR on all bands from 20m to 10m with her 71ft EFRW and 9:1 unun. A great result.

But Mallory doesn’t need to cover her version of Old Barebones with a hat to disguise its appearance. It is a beautiful design built into a custom 3D printed case with 3D printed knobs and looks terrific.

If anyone else is interested in building this simple construction project Mallory has kindly provided links to an online source for the parts and the 3D print files:

• Polyvaricons: https://a.co/d/hOYgP2f
• Toroids: https://a.co/d/7mItRXw
• Magnet wire: https://a.co/d/ffqdHo9
• BNC posts: https://a.co/d/5mwLEVI

Here is a link to the 3D print design of the knobs:  https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3035549/files

Here is a link to the file to 3D print; it’s a print profile (modification) from the original designer of a customizable enclosure box: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2002942-custom-enclosure-box#profileId-2400746

A note on the use of Old Barebones

I designed Old Barebones for use with my QRP Labs QMX transceiver which has a convenient “Tune SWR” feature that reduces the output power to 25% to reduce the stress of high SWR on its delicate finals during the tuning process. I have also used Old Barebones with my Yaesu FT-817 but I manually reduce the power to 1 watt or less during tuning. If using Old Barebones with any radio that does not have an SWR indicator I recommend incorporating an SWR indicator in the tuner circuit similar to the original Norcal BLT design.

Polyvaricons?

The word “polyvaricon” is presumably a contraction of “Polymer Variable Condenser” meaning a plastic enclosed variable capacitor using a plastic dielectric. It is believed to be the trademark of a Japanese company that manufactures these devices. But shouldn’t it be called a “polyvaricap”. I remember back in the dawn of my existence that capacitors were called “condensors” but that term disappeared a long time ago. Strange old world.

What is a Z-match?

“Antenna tuners” are often named after their topology. For example, an L-match comprises a series inductor or capacitor and a complementary parallel capacitor or inductor. The combination of inductor and capacitor forms an “L” shape. However, there is no immediately apparent “Z” shape to the components in a Z-match, so I presume the “Z” refers to impedance. Let me know in the comments if I am wrong.

Pros and Cons of the Z-match

From the GQRP organization in the UK:

Advantages of the Z-Match

• Matches balanced loads without the use of lossy baluns.
• Being a parallel resonant circuit, the Z-match can provide some band-pass filtering for your receiver and harmonic attenuation for your transmitter.
• A well-designed Z-match tuner has a high Q and is more efficient (less lossy) than other types of tuners.
• The fixed inductor simplifies construction (no switches or rollers needed).

Disadvantages of the Z-Match

• Tuning is usually very narrow and can be a bit touchy sometimes to tune up

Thanks again to Mallory KD5ZZU for sharing her build with Ham Radio Outside the Box and congratulations Mallory for turning my original inelegant build into something with class!

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#AmateurRadio #OldBarebonesZMatch #QMX

KD5ZZU’s very elegant build of “Old Barebones” – a Z-match tuner

Back in October 2024 I wrote a post with the title “Old Barebones” – A QRP Z-match Builder Project. The project’s purpose was to construct a simplified version of the Norcal Z-match tuner (which I also owned) to use with my QRP Labs QMX transceiver. The Norcal tuner included some features that I simply did not need – such as balanced transmission line terminals, a simple LED SWR indicator and three switches (Balanced line/BNC, Tune/Operate, High/Low impedance). The schematic was copied from the Norcal tuner – a superb design that I didn’t think I could improve. The end result was a very simple device with three BNC connectors, a toroidal inductor and two polyvaricons, all packaged in a small Amazonian plastic enclosure. Alright, it is an ugly device mainly due to the inelegant knobs I chose to use. But it works very well indeed and has become my main QRP portable antenna matching unit. Heck, it cost me a big fat nothing to build thanks to my extensive junque box stocked from years spent hoarding miscellaneous bits and pieces. When I have finished twiddling the knobs I can always put my hat over it to hide its lack of elegance.

Then, out of the blue, I received an email from Mallory KD5ZZU who expressed an interest in building her own version of “Old Barebones”. Mallory queried whether the design would work on the high bands. I had only tested mine on 20m, 30m and 40m, so I hooked it up to my home 80m EFHW and my portable 13ft tripod vertical antennas to test whether a low SWR could be achieved with Old Barebones on 17m, 15m 12m and 10m. Fortunately Old Barebones did a splendid job on both antennas so Mallory took the plunge and built her own version.

Note: My 80m EFHW (End-Fed Half Wave) is used primarily on 80m but is also useful on 40m and 20m. Using a tuner to obtain a low SWR on the higher bands protects the radio from high SWR but does not imply that the antenna is useful on those bands.

Mallory experienced a hitch in the construction though. Her first build did not function as expected and she asked for ideas on what to look for to resolve the problem. It turned out to be the connections to the polyvaricons that were the problem. Polyvaricons often have several sets of vanes and multiple connection points. I had used a capacitance meter to identify the correct connections in my original build. Realizing this may be the problem, Mallory quickly identified the correct connections and got her tuner working. She wrote that she was able to achieve a nice low SWR on all bands from 20m to 10m with her 71ft EFRW and 9:1 unun. A great result.

But Mallory doesn’t need to cover her version of Old Barebones with a hat to disguise its appearance. It is a beautiful design built into a custom 3D printed case with 3D printed knobs and looks terrific.

If anyone else is interested in building this simple construction project Mallory has kindly provided links to an online source for the parts and the 3D print files:

• Polyvaricons: https://a.co/d/hOYgP2f
• Toroids: https://a.co/d/7mItRXw
• Magnet wire: https://a.co/d/ffqdHo9
• BNC posts: https://a.co/d/5mwLEVI

Here is a link to the 3D print design of the knobs:  https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3035549/files

Here is a link to the file to 3D print; it’s a print profile (modification) from the original designer of a customizable enclosure box: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2002942-custom-enclosure-box#profileId-2400746

A note on the use of Old Barebones

I designed Old Barebones for use with my QRP Labs QMX transceiver which has a convenient “Tune SWR” feature that reduces the output power to 25% to reduce the stress of high SWR on its delicate finals during the tuning process. I have also used Old Barebones with my Yaesu FT-817 but I manually reduce the power to 1 watt or less during tuning. If using Old Barebones with any radio that does not have an SWR indicator I recommend incorporating an SWR indicator in the tuner circuit similar to the original Norcal BLT design.

Polyvaricons?

The word “polyvaricon” is presumably a contraction of “Polymer Variable Condenser” meaning a plastic enclosed variable capacitor using a plastic dielectric. It is believed to be the trademark of a Japanese company that manufactures these devices. But shouldn’t it be called a “polyvaricap”. I remember back in the dawn of my existence that capacitors were called “condensors” but that term disappeared a long time ago. Strange old world.

What is a Z-match?

“Antenna tuners” are often named after their topology. For example, an L-match comprises a series inductor or capacitor and a complementary parallel capacitor or inductor. The combination of inductor and capacitor forms an “L” shape. However, there is no immediately apparent “Z” shape to the components in a Z-match, so I presume the “Z” refers to impedance. Let me know in the comments if I am wrong.

Pros and Cons of the Z-match

From the GQRP organization in the UK:

Advantages of the Z-Match

• Matches balanced loads without the use of lossy baluns.
• Being a parallel resonant circuit, the Z-match can provide some band-pass filtering for your receiver and harmonic attenuation for your transmitter.
• A well-designed Z-match tuner has a high Q and is more efficient (less lossy) than other types of tuners.
• The fixed inductor simplifies construction (no switches or rollers needed).

Disadvantages of the Z-Match

• Tuning is usually very narrow and can be a bit touchy sometimes to tune up

Thanks again to Mallory KD5ZZU for sharing her build with Ham Radio Outside the Box and congratulations Mallory for turning my original inelegant build into something with class!

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#AmateurRadio #OldBarebonesZMatch #QMX

The ultimate rebuild of an ancient Yaesu FT-817.

I think it was a couple of years ago now I ordered a QRP Labs QMX transceiver. It quickly, but temporarily, became my favorite radio for portable field operations. I have written before about why I believe the QMX is a mighty fine piece of miniaturized technology but is less suitable for the rigors of being operated in the kind of field operating environment to which I expose my radios. My QMX is the low-band version and I also miss the opportunity to explore the higher bands when propagation conditions permit.

What’s a poor Ham to do?

I could buy another QMX, but order the high band version this time. It would be a very modest investment, but would still require ruggedizing. Another downside is the long, long wait time betwixt ordering and receiving the tiny parcel from Turkey. I could also order a QMX+ which is a fine all HF band radio, but then what to do with the QMX low band? There is another solution.

The Paranoid Android

I recall a quote from the book “The Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy” by Douglas Adams in which the perenially depressed robot “Marvin the Paranoid Android” moans: “The first ten million years were the worst.” When I look at the front panel of my ancient Yaesu FT-817 non-ND version it kinda has a Marvin look about it. It has spent almost a quarter of a century waiting patiently in a drawer for the day when it might be called into action again. Many radios have come and gone during that time but – even though I had planned to sell it on many occasions – I still own it and it’s day to see the sunshine again has finally come.

Where are the features?

The non-ND version of the FT-817 is a barebones rig. I needed a CW memory keyer – it doesn’t have one. Activating a POTA park sometimes requires great patience and many, many CQs. My QMX at least has that covered. I also needed an audio filter. It used to be possible to buy a Collins mechanical filter but they are no longer made. My QMX also has that feature covered, but the FT-817 requires an external audio filter.

Failure is not an option

The FT-817 does have a higher level of ruggedness than the QMX. With a few extra precautionary measures it can be protected from the ingress of sand particles during a beach activation, or unexpected spray from waves on the shores of the Great Lakes. The QMX will not tolerate wide variations in DC supply voltage; the FT-817 has that covered. The QMX uses inexpensive but fragile PA transistors (mine have not succumbed to failure – yet). Well, the FT-817 also had fragile PA transistors in its early days and mine did indeed fail during a field deployment. The FT-817’s PA board is a small module that is easily replaced with the new upgraded module – as was mine.

I get by with a little help from my friends

The feature shortcomings of the FT-817 have been overcome with two “helper modules” assembled inside aluminum Hammond project enclosures. The front enclosure contains a K3NG Arduino nano based CW keyer and a very simple no-thrills set of 3D printed paddles. Well who really needs to spend $300 on a fancy set of paddles for a brief POTA exchange? These paddles get the job done FB. The same cannot be said about the fist that operates them!

The front panel controls are very simple. The paddles protrude through a cutout in the Hammond enclosure.

Beside the paddles is a knob. This knob is used to operate a rotary encoder inside. Clicking the knob operates the switch built into the rotary encoder and triggers the sending of a “CQ CQ POTA de VA3KOT VA3KOT k” stored message in the Arduino keyer.

Rotating the knob adjusts the speed of the CW over a wide range. I have found this to be a very useful feature. I usually send at 20wpm and receive responses that are slower and faster than my sending speed. With this prominent control front-and-center I can quickly adjust my sending speed to suit.

I built the K4ICY audio frequency filter module around a quad op-amp DIL chip. This is a very simple circuit that provides 2 or 4 stages of filtering to narrow the bandwidth of a received signal. Each stage contains identical components whose values are selected according the operator’s desired sidetone frequency. The whole module can be bypassed if required allowing an audio bandwidth wide enough to pass a crosstown bus sideways.

Both modules are rigidly secured to each other using two aluminum rails made from scrap material. I hoard scraps of metal, plastic and other materials – you just never know when you’re gonna need ’em.

The dimensions of the two modules provide an ample flat surface on which to mount the ancient, but revered, transceiver. I purchased some “peel & stick” Gorilla brand “Slipstick” gripper pads and applied four of them to the base of the FT-817. This is a genuinely useful product I recommend to any hambrewer. The radio has been secured to the top of the helper modules with two woodland zip ties made from thin cordage. These simple cord fasteners work just as well as plastic zip ties and can be easily undone for servicing the modules.

I purchased a box load of these Hammond enclosures at an auction many years ago. They have proved very useful. In another build, using the same enclosures configured in an identical manner, I was able to construct two battery modules each containing four 18650 Lithium Ion batteries in 4S1P configuration for powering another one of my ancient QRP transceivers.

This is not the first time I have revived my FT-817, but previous rebuilds were clumsy. It is one thing to put together multiple modules on the shack bench. Clumsy, cluttered, loose modules might work in a picnic-tables-on-the-air type activation. But would it work in a situation where there are no convenient surfaces to mount the equipment; where – at any moment – we might be politely asked to vacate the area by a hungry bear looking for a space to eat his lunch? This new build is a grab-and-go package that works in small, tight spaces – even on top of a rock in the backcountry – and that’s the kind of environment where I like to operate.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#AmateurRadio #FT817 #OutdoorOps #POTA #QMX

The ultimate rebuild of an ancient Yaesu FT-817.

I think it was a couple of years ago now I ordered a QRP Labs QMX transceiver. It quickly, but temporarily, became my favorite radio for portable field operations. I have written before about why I believe the QMX is a mighty fine piece of miniaturized technology but is less suitable for the rigors of being operated in the kind of field operating environment to which I expose my radios. My QMX is the low-band version and I also miss the opportunity to explore the higher bands when propagation conditions permit.

What’s a poor Ham to do?

I could buy another QMX, but order the high band version this time. It would be a very modest investment, but would still require ruggedizing. Another downside is the long, long wait time betwixt ordering and receiving the tiny parcel from Turkey. I could also order a QMX+ which is a fine all HF band radio, but then what to do with the QMX low band? There is another solution.

The Paranoid Android

I recall a quote from the book “The Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy” by Douglas Adams in which the perenially depressed robot “Marvin the Paranoid Android” moans: “The first ten million years were the worst.” When I look at the front panel of my ancient Yaesu FT-817 non-ND version it kinda has a Marvin look about it. It has spent almost a quarter of a century waiting patiently in a drawer for the day when it might be called into action again. Many radios have come and gone during that time but – even though I had planned to sell it on many occasions – I still own it and it’s day to see the sunshine again has finally come.

Where are the features?

The non-ND version of the FT-817 is a barebones rig. I needed a CW memory keyer – it doesn’t have one. Activating a POTA park sometimes requires great patience and many, many CQs. My QMX at least has that covered. I also needed an audio filter. It used to be possible to buy a Collins mechanical filter but they are no longer made. My QMX also has that feature covered, but the FT-817 requires an external audio filter.

Failure is not an option

The FT-817 does have a higher level of ruggedness than the QMX. With a few extra precautionary measures it can be protected from the ingress of sand particles during a beach activation, or unexpected spray from waves on the shores of the Great Lakes. The QMX will not tolerate wide variations in DC supply voltage; the FT-817 has that covered. The QMX uses inexpensive but fragile PA transistors (mine have not succumbed to failure – yet). Well, the FT-817 also had fragile PA transistors in its early days and mine did indeed fail during a field deployment. The FT-817’s PA board is a small module that is easily replaced with the new upgraded module – as was mine.

I get by with a little help from my friends

The feature shortcomings of the FT-817 have been overcome with two “helper modules” assembled inside aluminum Hammond project enclosures. The front enclosure contains a K3NG Arduino nano based CW keyer and a very simple no-thrills set of 3D printed paddles. Well who really needs to spend $300 on a fancy set of paddles for a brief POTA exchange? These paddles get the job done FB. The same cannot be said about the fist that operates them!

The front panel controls are very simple. The paddles protrude through a cutout in the Hammond enclosure.

Beside the paddles is a knob. This knob is used to operate a rotary encoder inside. Clicking the knob operates the switch built into the rotary encoder and triggers the sending of a “CQ CQ POTA de VA3KOT VA3KOT k” stored message in the Arduino keyer.

Rotating the knob adjusts the speed of the CW over a wide range. I have found this to be a very useful feature. I usually send at 20wpm and receive responses that are slower and faster than my sending speed. With this prominent control front-and-center I can quickly adjust my sending speed to suit.

I built the K4ICY audio frequency filter module around a quad op-amp DIL chip. This is a very simple circuit that provides 2 or 4 stages of filtering to narrow the bandwidth of a received signal. Each stage contains identical components whose values are selected according the operator’s desired sidetone frequency. The whole module can be bypassed if required allowing an audio bandwidth wide enough to pass a crosstown bus sideways.

Both modules are rigidly secured to each other using two aluminum rails made from scrap material. I hoard scraps of metal, plastic and other materials – you just never know when you’re gonna need ’em.

The dimensions of the two modules provide an ample flat surface on which to mount the ancient, but revered, transceiver. I purchased some “peel & stick” Gorilla brand “Slipstick” gripper pads and applied four of them to the base of the FT-817. This is a genuinely useful product I recommend to any hambrewer. The radio has been secured to the top of the helper modules with two woodland zip ties made from thin cordage. These simple cord fasteners work just as well as plastic zip ties and can be easily undone for servicing the modules.

I purchased a box load of these Hammond enclosures at an auction many years ago. They have proved very useful. In another build, using the same enclosures configured in an identical manner, I was able to construct two battery modules each containing four 18650 Lithium Ion batteries in 4S1P configuration for powering another one of my ancient QRP transceivers.

This is not the first time I have revived my FT-817, but previous rebuilds were clumsy. It is one thing to put together multiple modules on the shack bench. Clumsy, cluttered, loose modules might work in a picnic-tables-on-the-air type activation. But would it work in a situation where there are no convenient surfaces to mount the equipment; where – at any moment – we might be politely asked to vacate the area by a hungry bear looking for a space to eat his lunch? This new build is a grab-and-go package that works in small, tight spaces – even on top of a rock in the backcountry – and that’s the kind of environment where I like to operate.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#AmateurRadio #FT817 #OutdoorOps #POTA #QMX

The ultimate rebuild of an ancient Yaesu FT-817.

I think it was a couple of years ago now I ordered a QRP Labs QMX transceiver. It quickly, but temporarily, became my favorite radio for portable field operations. I have written before about why I believe the QMX is a mighty fine piece of miniaturized technology but is less suitable for the rigors of being operated in the kind of field operating environment to which I expose my radios. My QMX is the low-band version and I also miss the opportunity to explore the higher bands when propagation conditions permit.

What’s a poor Ham to do?

I could buy another QMX, but order the high band version this time. It would be a very modest investment, but would still require ruggedizing. Another downside is the long, long wait time betwixt ordering and receiving the tiny parcel from Turkey. I could also order a QMX+ which is a fine all HF band radio, but then what to do with the QMX low band? There is another solution.

The Paranoid Android

I recall a quote from the book “The Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy” by Douglas Adams in which the perenially depressed robot “Marvin the Paranoid Android” moans: “The first ten million years were the worst.” When I look at the front panel of my ancient Yaesu FT-817 non-ND version it kinda has a Marvin look about it. It has spent almost a quarter of a century waiting patiently in a drawer for the day when it might be called into action again. Many radios have come and gone during that time but – even though I had planned to sell it on many occasions – I still own it and it’s day to see the sunshine again has finally come.

Where are the features?

The non-ND version of the FT-817 is a barebones rig. I needed a CW memory keyer – it doesn’t have one. Activating a POTA park sometimes requires great patience and many, many CQs. My QMX at least has that covered. I also needed an audio filter. It used to be possible to buy a Collins mechanical filter but they are no longer made. My QMX also has that feature covered, but the FT-817 requires an external audio filter.

Failure is not an option

The FT-817 does have a higher level of ruggedness than the QMX. With a few extra precautionary measures it can be protected from the ingress of sand particles during a beach activation, or unexpected spray from waves on the shores of the Great Lakes. The QMX will not tolerate wide variations in DC supply voltage; the FT-817 has that covered. The QMX uses inexpensive but fragile PA transistors (mine have not succumbed to failure – yet). Well, the FT-817 also had fragile PA transistors in its early days and mine did indeed fail during a field deployment. The FT-817’s PA board is a small module that is easily replaced with the new upgraded module – as was mine.

I get by with a little help from my friends

The feature shortcomings of the FT-817 have been overcome with two “helper modules” assembled inside aluminum Hammond project enclosures. The front enclosure contains a K3NG Arduino nano based CW keyer and a very simple no-thrills set of 3D printed paddles. Well who really needs to spend $300 on a fancy set of paddles for a brief POTA exchange? These paddles get the job done FB. The same cannot be said about the fist that operates them!

The front panel controls are very simple. The paddles protrude through a cutout in the Hammond enclosure.

Beside the paddles is a knob. This knob is used to operate a rotary encoder inside. Clicking the knob operates the switch built into the rotary encoder and triggers the sending of a “CQ CQ POTA de VA3KOT VA3KOT k” stored message in the Arduino keyer.

Rotating the knob adjusts the speed of the CW over a wide range. I have found this to be a very useful feature. I usually send at 20wpm and receive responses that are slower and faster than my sending speed. With this prominent control front-and-center I can quickly adjust my sending speed to suit.

I built the K4ICY audio frequency filter module around a quad op-amp DIL chip. This is a very simple circuit that provides 2 or 4 stages of filtering to narrow the bandwidth of a received signal. Each stage contains identical components whose values are selected according the operator’s desired sidetone frequency. The whole module can be bypassed if required allowing an audio bandwidth wide enough to pass a crosstown bus sideways.

Both modules are rigidly secured to each other using two aluminum rails made from scrap material. I hoard scraps of metal, plastic and other materials – you just never know when you’re gonna need ’em.

The dimensions of the two modules provide an ample flat surface on which to mount the ancient, but revered, transceiver. I purchased some “peel & stick” Gorilla brand “Slipstick” gripper pads and applied four of them to the base of the FT-817. This is a genuinely useful product I recommend to any hambrewer. The radio has been secured to the top of the helper modules with two woodland zip ties made from thin cordage. These simple cord fasteners work just as well as plastic zip ties and can be easily undone for servicing the modules.

I purchased a box load of these Hammond enclosures at an auction many years ago. They have proved very useful. In another build, using the same enclosures configured in an identical manner, I was able to construct two battery modules each containing four 18650 Lithium Ion batteries in 4S1P configuration for powering another one of my ancient QRP transceivers.

This is not the first time I have revived my FT-817, but previous rebuilds were clumsy. It is one thing to put together multiple modules on the shack bench. Clumsy, cluttered, loose modules might work in a picnic-tables-on-the-air type activation. But would it work in a situation where there are no convenient surfaces to mount the equipment; where – at any moment – we might be politely asked to vacate the area by a hungry bear looking for a space to eat his lunch? This new build is a grab-and-go package that works in small, tight spaces – even on top of a rock in the backcountry – and that’s the kind of environment where I like to operate.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#AmateurRadio #FT817 #OutdoorOps #POTA #QMX

The ultimate rebuild of an ancient Yaesu FT-817.

I think it was a couple of years ago now I ordered a QRP Labs QMX transceiver. It quickly, but temporarily, became my favorite radio for portable field operations. I have written before about why I believe the QMX is a mighty fine piece of miniaturized technology but is less suitable for the rigors of being operated in the kind of field operating environment to which I expose my radios. My QMX is the low-band version and I also miss the opportunity to explore the higher bands when propagation conditions permit.

What’s a poor Ham to do?

I could buy another QMX, but order the high band version this time. It would be a very modest investment, but would still require ruggedizing. Another downside is the long, long wait time betwixt ordering and receiving the tiny parcel from Turkey. I could also order a QMX+ which is a fine all HF band radio, but then what to do with the QMX low band? There is another solution.

The Paranoid Android

I recall a quote from the book “The Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy” by Douglas Adams in which the perenially depressed robot “Marvin the Paranoid Android” moans: “The first ten million years were the worst.” When I look at the front panel of my ancient Yaesu FT-817 non-ND version it kinda has a Marvin look about it. It has spent almost a quarter of a century waiting patiently in a drawer for the day when it might be called into action again. Many radios have come and gone during that time but – even though I had planned to sell it on many occasions – I still own it and it’s day to see the sunshine again has finally come.

Where are the features?

The non-ND version of the FT-817 is a barebones rig. I needed a CW memory keyer – it doesn’t have one. Activating a POTA park sometimes requires great patience and many, many CQs. My QMX at least has that covered. I also needed an audio filter. It used to be possible to buy a Collins mechanical filter but they are no longer made. My QMX also has that feature covered, but the FT-817 requires an external audio filter.

Failure is not an option

The FT-817 does have a higher level of ruggedness than the QMX. With a few extra precautionary measures it can be protected from the ingress of sand particles during a beach activation, or unexpected spray from waves on the shores of the Great Lakes. The QMX will not tolerate wide variations in DC supply voltage; the FT-817 has that covered. The QMX uses inexpensive but fragile PA transistors (mine have not succumbed to failure – yet). Well, the FT-817 also had fragile PA transistors in its early days and mine did indeed fail during a field deployment. The FT-817’s PA board is a small module that is easily replaced with the new upgraded module – as was mine.

I get by with a little help from my friends

The feature shortcomings of the FT-817 have been overcome with two “helper modules” assembled inside aluminum Hammond project enclosures. The front enclosure contains a K3NG Arduino nano based CW keyer and a very simple no-thrills set of 3D printed paddles. Well who really needs to spend $300 on a fancy set of paddles for a brief POTA exchange? These paddles get the job done FB. The same cannot be said about the fist that operates them!

The front panel controls are very simple. The paddles protrude through a cutout in the Hammond enclosure.

Beside the paddles is a knob. This knob is used to operate a rotary encoder inside. Clicking the knob operates the switch built into the rotary encoder and triggers the sending of a “CQ CQ POTA de VA3KOT VA3KOT k” stored message in the Arduino keyer.

Rotating the knob adjusts the speed of the CW over a wide range. I have found this to be a very useful feature. I usually send at 20wpm and receive responses that are slower and faster than my sending speed. With this prominent control front-and-center I can quickly adjust my sending speed to suit.

I built the K4ICY audio frequency filter module around a quad op-amp DIL chip. This is a very simple circuit that provides 2 or 4 stages of filtering to narrow the bandwidth of a received signal. Each stage contains identical components whose values are selected according the operator’s desired sidetone frequency. The whole module can be bypassed if required allowing an audio bandwidth wide enough to pass a crosstown bus sideways.

Both modules are rigidly secured to each other using two aluminum rails made from scrap material. I hoard scraps of metal, plastic and other materials – you just never know when you’re gonna need ’em.

The dimensions of the two modules provide an ample flat surface on which to mount the ancient, but revered, transceiver. I purchased some “peel & stick” Gorilla brand “Slipstick” gripper pads and applied four of them to the base of the FT-817. This is a genuinely useful product I recommend to any hambrewer. The radio has been secured to the top of the helper modules with two woodland zip ties made from thin cordage. These simple cord fasteners work just as well as plastic zip ties and can be easily undone for servicing the modules.

I purchased a box load of these Hammond enclosures at an auction many years ago. They have proved very useful. In another build, using the same enclosures configured in an identical manner, I was able to construct two battery modules each containing four 18650 Lithium Ion batteries in 4S1P configuration for powering another one of my ancient QRP transceivers.

This is not the first time I have revived my FT-817, but previous rebuilds were clumsy. It is one thing to put together multiple modules on the shack bench. Clumsy, cluttered, loose modules might work in a picnic-tables-on-the-air type activation. But would it work in a situation where there are no convenient surfaces to mount the equipment; where – at any moment – we might be politely asked to vacate the area by a hungry bear looking for a space to eat his lunch? This new build is a grab-and-go package that works in small, tight spaces – even on top of a rock in the backcountry – and that’s the kind of environment where I like to operate.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#AmateurRadio #FT817 #OutdoorOps #POTA #QMX

The ultimate rebuild of an ancient Yaesu FT-817.

I think it was a couple of years ago now I ordered a QRP Labs QMX transceiver. It quickly, but temporarily, became my favorite radio for portable field operations. I have written before about why I believe the QMX is a mighty fine piece of miniaturized technology but is less suitable for the rigors of being operated in the kind of field operating environment to which I expose my radios. My QMX is the low-band version and I also miss the opportunity to explore the higher bands when propagation conditions permit.

What’s a poor Ham to do?

I could buy another QMX, but order the high band version this time. It would be a very modest investment, but would still require ruggedizing. Another downside is the long, long wait time betwixt ordering and receiving the tiny parcel from Turkey. I could also order a QMX+ which is a fine all HF band radio, but then what to do with the QMX low band? There is another solution.

The Paranoid Android

I recall a quote from the book “The Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy” by Douglas Adams in which the perenially depressed robot “Marvin the Paranoid Android” moans: “The first ten million years were the worst.” When I look at the front panel of my ancient Yaesu FT-817 non-ND version it kinda has a Marvin look about it. It has spent almost a quarter of a century waiting patiently in a drawer for the day when it might be called into action again. Many radios have come and gone during that time but – even though I had planned to sell it on many occasions – I still own it and it’s day to see the sunshine again has finally come.

Where are the features?

The non-ND version of the FT-817 is a barebones rig. I needed a CW memory keyer – it doesn’t have one. Activating a POTA park sometimes requires great patience and many, many CQs. My QMX at least has that covered. I also needed an audio filter. It used to be possible to buy a Collins mechanical filter but they are no longer made. My QMX also has that feature covered, but the FT-817 requires an external audio filter.

Failure is not an option

The FT-817 does have a higher level of ruggedness than the QMX. With a few extra precautionary measures it can be protected from the ingress of sand particles during a beach activation, or unexpected spray from waves on the shores of the Great Lakes. The QMX will not tolerate wide variations in DC supply voltage; the FT-817 has that covered. The QMX uses inexpensive but fragile PA transistors (mine have not succumbed to failure – yet). Well, the FT-817 also had fragile PA transistors in its early days and mine did indeed fail during a field deployment. The FT-817’s PA board is a small module that is easily replaced with the new upgraded module – as was mine.

I get by with a little help from my friends

The feature shortcomings of the FT-817 have been overcome with two “helper modules” assembled inside aluminum Hammond project enclosures. The front enclosure contains a K3NG Arduino nano based CW keyer and a very simple no-thrills set of 3D printed paddles. Well who really needs to spend $300 on a fancy set of paddles for a brief POTA exchange? These paddles get the job done FB. The same cannot be said about the fist that operates them!

The front panel controls are very simple. The paddles protrude through a cutout in the Hammond enclosure.

Beside the paddles is a knob. This knob is used to operate a rotary encoder inside. Clicking the knob operates the switch built into the rotary encoder and triggers the sending of a “CQ CQ POTA de VA3KOT VA3KOT k” stored message in the Arduino keyer.

Rotating the knob adjusts the speed of the CW over a wide range. I have found this to be a very useful feature. I usually send at 20wpm and receive responses that are slower and faster than my sending speed. With this prominent control front-and-center I can quickly adjust my sending speed to suit.

I built the K4ICY audio frequency filter module around a quad op-amp DIL chip. This is a very simple circuit that provides 2 or 4 stages of filtering to narrow the bandwidth of a received signal. Each stage contains identical components whose values are selected according the operator’s desired sidetone frequency. The whole module can be bypassed if required allowing an audio bandwidth wide enough to pass a crosstown bus sideways.

Both modules are rigidly secured to each other using two aluminum rails made from scrap material. I hoard scraps of metal, plastic and other materials – you just never know when you’re gonna need ’em.

The dimensions of the two modules provide an ample flat surface on which to mount the ancient, but revered, transceiver. I purchased some “peel & stick” Gorilla brand “Slipstick” gripper pads and applied four of them to the base of the FT-817. This is a genuinely useful product I recommend to any hambrewer. The radio has been secured to the top of the helper modules with two woodland zip ties made from thin cordage. These simple cord fasteners work just as well as plastic zip ties and can be easily undone for servicing the modules.

I purchased a box load of these Hammond enclosures at an auction many years ago. They have proved very useful. In another build, using the same enclosures configured in an identical manner, I was able to construct two battery modules each containing four 18650 Lithium Ion batteries in 4S1P configuration for powering another one of my ancient QRP transceivers.

This is not the first time I have revived my FT-817, but previous rebuilds were clumsy. It is one thing to put together multiple modules on the shack bench. Clumsy, cluttered, loose modules might work in a picnic-tables-on-the-air type activation. But would it work in a situation where there are no convenient surfaces to mount the equipment; where – at any moment – we might be politely asked to vacate the area by a hungry bear looking for a space to eat his lunch? This new build is a grab-and-go package that works in small, tight spaces – even on top of a rock in the backcountry – and that’s the kind of environment where I like to operate.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#AmateurRadio #FT817 #OutdoorOps #POTA #QMX

I am irrationally entertained by the GPS status screen in the terminal interface of my #QRPLabs #QMX+ radio.

#AmateurRadio