#outdoor-ops — Public Fediverse posts

There is a “small” problem with the QRP Labs QMX transceiver – and an easy fix

Why was it born so beautiful, why was it born so small?

I have to admit to a love/hate relationship with my microscopic, yet bursting with features, QMX transceiver. This marvel of technology is densely packed into a shirt pocket-sized sturdy aluminum case. Just how did the R&D department at Turkey’s QRP Labs manage to squeeze so much into so little? And the big question is why?

Way over yonder where Europe joins Asia lies a radio electronics laboratory in which the entire research and development department goes by the name Hans. My imagination conjures up a picture of something akin to Santa’s toy factory at the North Pole (where, incidentally, there is no land – just constantly shifting sea ice; sorry kids).

And why did I buy this marvelous, lilliputian, bite-sized box of electronic Turkish delight? I guess it was the cute factor – the same reason I bought my Yaesu FT-817 back when it was first released. I have thought about selling that FT-817 many times but that cute puppy dog front panel keeps looking up at me and I change my mind every time. My QMX is cute in a different way in that it’s very small size was the “flash the cash” factor that put my name at the bottom of a very long wait list. After a long 6-month delay I received my micro miracle and haven’t stopped using it ever since.

He’ll be coming up the mountain when he comes

I don’t need to haul my radios up mountains. The nearest mountain to where I live – naively called “Kemble Mountain” – is just a local high point along the Niagara Escarpment. I could ride a bicycle up it’s south face in five minutes. So, no mountains, no need for ultra-light radio equipment. I can carry my outdoor portable wireless sets in a backpack when operating on a trail. So once again: why did I buy a sub-miniature radio? Oh yes, it’s cute; like a little puppy. Now I have my QMX, I really like the little thing so it’s definitely a keeper.

But I like BIG radios

Let’s look at it this way: the QMX is BIG on features, now all I gotta do is fix its physical size. I think I have a solution – strap it to a brick; well actually a Lithium Iron Phosphate brick.

I have rebuilt my QMX-based portable wireless communication set so many times and yet here I go again. As you can see from the picture above, the “brick” is an Eco Worthy 8 Ah Lithium Iron Phosphate battery. Its main function is to anchor the QMX to the surface of the planet – a task it performs admirably well. Oh, yes, it also powers the QMX.

What??? An 8 Ah battery could supply power to half a dozen QMX radios! Yes, but I refer you to its primary function. In fact the high capacity battery is very useful when I venture forth on a multi-day radio road trip. I charge the battery at home with a Sky Toppower PS3010H constant current, constant voltage bench power supply (available on Amazon).

Charging details: I programmed the PS3010H to charge the battery at a constant current of 1.0 amp up to a terminal voltage of 14.2 volts and then to automagically switch to constant voltage until the charging current drops to zero. The battery is then good for several days of operating.

By the way, all those R&D boffins, collectively known as Hans, fixed one of the most annoying features of the early QMX models, and that was the need to keep the supply voltage closely regulated to 12.00000000 volts. This was achieved by using series diodes in the supply line, or a buck converter. I chose the latter, and I have kept “Buck” in circuit despite the clever firmware fix that eliminated the need. I’m the kinda guy who wears a belt and suspenders to keep his pants up. Or maybe just think of it as a backup or redundancy system. If a future firmware release breaks the fix I won’t have to watch as the QMX’s delicate BS170 final transistors make a smoky ascent to the heavens.

And while I’m up on my soapbox …

The dastardly diminutive dimensions of the QMX are not my only gripe. Small size dictates small connections to the outside world. Ok, I have griped about this before, but I don’t like tiny connectors – those one-eighth of an inch (3.5 mm) jacks for hooking up earphones and paddle keys are a failure point waiting to happen – especially when subjected to the rigors of operating in the field. But, there is an easy solution; simply keep all accessories plugged in and there should not be a problem. Take a look at the picture below.

There is another benefit of this everything-connected-ready-to-go solution: it is literally ready to go. My QMX-on-a-brick kit is transported inside a rugged, waterproof European military respirator bag. I don’t even need to remove the rig from the bag to operate, simply hook up an antenna and start firing RF up to the Heaviside layer. No need to stop for several days, the battery is good for it.

There is something else I should mention …

If the QMX hadn’t been designed to be quite so small there is one other missed opportunity that could have been considered. When ordering a QMX transceiver there is a band selection decision to be made. I chose the low band version and that gives me 80m, 60m, 40m, 30m and 20m. Sometimes I wish I had chosen a version supporting the higher bands. Now imagine, if the original design had placed all the band specific components on a separate circuit board, we could possibly have popped open the case and switched circuit boards to gain access to more bands.

So, paraphrasing a song popular in some parts of the world, I ask again: “why was it born so beautiful, why was it born so small?”

Footnote:

It is easy to gripe but, in all seriousness, QRP-Labs founder and head honcho, Hans Summers has produced so many wonderful products for ham radio enthusiasts – and at very affordable prices too. As a well known British knight of the realm, who gathers no moss, once wrote: “You can’t always get what you want, but if you try sometime you find you get what you need”.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#OutdoorOps #Portable #QMX

There is a “small” problem with the QRP Labs QMX transceiver – and an easy fix

Why was it born so beautiful, why was it born so small?

I have to admit to a love/hate relationship with my microscopic, yet bursting with features, QMX transceiver. This marvel of technology is densely packed into a shirt pocket-sized sturdy aluminum case. Just how did the R&D department at Turkey’s QRP Labs manage to squeeze so much into so little? And the big question is why?

Way over yonder where Europe joins Asia lies a radio electronics laboratory in which the entire research and development department goes by the name Hans. My imagination conjures up a picture of something akin to Santa’s toy factory at the North Pole (where, incidentally, there is no land – just constantly shifting sea ice; sorry kids).

And why did I buy this marvelous, lilliputian, bite-sized box of electronic Turkish delight? I guess it was the cute factor – the same reason I bought my Yaesu FT-817 back when it was first released. I have thought about selling that FT-817 many times but that cute puppy dog front panel keeps looking up at me and I change my mind every time. My QMX is cute in a different way in that it’s very small size was the “flash the cash” factor that put my name at the bottom of a very long wait list. After a long 6-month delay I received my micro miracle and haven’t stopped using it ever since.

He’ll be coming up the mountain when he comes

I don’t need to haul my radios up mountains. The nearest mountain to where I live – naively called “Kemble Mountain” – is just a local high point along the Niagara Escarpment. I could ride a bicycle up it’s south face in five minutes. So, no mountains, no need for ultra-light radio equipment. I can carry my outdoor portable wireless sets in a backpack when operating on a trail. So once again: why did I buy a sub-miniature radio? Oh yes, it’s cute; like a little puppy. Now I have my QMX, I really like the little thing so it’s definitely a keeper.

But I like BIG radios

Let’s look at it this way: the QMX is BIG on features, now all I gotta do is fix its physical size. I think I have a solution – strap it to a brick; well actually a Lithium Iron Phosphate brick.

I have rebuilt my QMX-based portable wireless communication set so many times and yet here I go again. As you can see from the picture above, the “brick” is an Eco Worthy 8 Ah Lithium Iron Phosphate battery. Its main function is to anchor the QMX to the surface of the planet – a task it performs admirably well. Oh, yes, it also powers the QMX.

What??? An 8 Ah battery could supply power to half a dozen QMX radios! Yes, but I refer you to its primary function. In fact the high capacity battery is very useful when I venture forth on a multi-day radio road trip. I charge the battery at home with a Sky Toppower PS3010H constant current, constant voltage bench power supply (available on Amazon).

Charging details: I programmed the PS3010H to charge the battery at a constant current of 1.0 amp up to a terminal voltage of 14.2 volts and then to automagically switch to constant voltage until the charging current drops to zero. The battery is then good for several days of operating.

By the way, all those R&D boffins, collectively known as Hans, fixed one of the most annoying features of the early QMX models, and that was the need to keep the supply voltage closely regulated to 12.00000000 volts. This was achieved by using series diodes in the supply line, or a buck converter. I chose the latter, and I have kept “Buck” in circuit despite the clever firmware fix that eliminated the need. I’m the kinda guy who wears a belt and suspenders to keep his pants up. Or maybe just think of it as a backup or redundancy system. If a future firmware release breaks the fix I won’t have to watch as the QMX’s delicate BS170 final transistors make a smoky ascent to the heavens.

And while I’m up on my soapbox …

The dastardly diminutive dimensions of the QMX are not my only gripe. Small size dictates small connections to the outside world. Ok, I have griped about this before, but I don’t like tiny connectors – those one-eighth of an inch (3.5 mm) jacks for hooking up earphones and paddle keys are a failure point waiting to happen – especially when subjected to the rigors of operating in the field. But, there is an easy solution; simply keep all accessories plugged in and there should not be a problem. Take a look at the picture below.

There is another benefit of this everything-connected-ready-to-go solution: it is literally ready to go. My QMX-on-a-brick kit is transported inside a rugged, waterproof European military respirator bag. I don’t even need to remove the rig from the bag to operate, simply hook up an antenna and start firing RF up to the Heaviside layer. No need to stop for several days, the battery is good for it.

There is something else I should mention …

If the QMX hadn’t been designed to be quite so small there is one other missed opportunity that could have been considered. When ordering a QMX transceiver there is a band selection decision to be made. I chose the low band version and that gives me 80m, 60m, 40m, 30m and 20m. Sometimes I wish I had chosen a version supporting the higher bands. Now imagine, if the original design had placed all the band specific components on a separate circuit board, we could possibly have popped open the case and switched circuit boards to gain access to more bands.

So, paraphrasing a song popular in some parts of the world, I ask again: “why was it born so beautiful, why was it born so small?”

Footnote:

It is easy to gripe but, in all seriousness, QRP-Labs founder and head honcho, Hans Summers has produced so many wonderful products for ham radio enthusiasts – and at very affordable prices too. As a well known British knight of the realm, who gathers no moss, once wrote: “You can’t always get what you want, but if you try sometime you find you get what you need”.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#OutdoorOps #Portable #QMX

There is a “small” problem with the QRP Labs QMX transceiver – and an easy fix

Why was it born so beautiful, why was it born so small?

I have to admit to a love/hate relationship with my microscopic, yet bursting with features, QMX transceiver. This marvel of technology is densely packed into a shirt pocket-sized sturdy aluminum case. Just how did the R&D department at Turkey’s QRP Labs manage to squeeze so much into so little? And the big question is why?

Way over yonder where Europe joins Asia lies a radio electronics laboratory in which the entire research and development department goes by the name Hans. My imagination conjures up a picture of something akin to Santa’s toy factory at the North Pole (where, incidentally, there is no land – just constantly shifting sea ice; sorry kids).

And why did I buy this marvelous, lilliputian, bite-sized box of electronic Turkish delight? I guess it was the cute factor – the same reason I bought my Yaesu FT-817 back when it was first released. I have thought about selling that FT-817 many times but that cute puppy dog front panel keeps looking up at me and I change my mind every time. My QMX is cute in a different way in that it’s very small size was the “flash the cash” factor that put my name at the bottom of a very long wait list. After a long 6-month delay I received my micro miracle and haven’t stopped using it ever since.

He’ll be coming up the mountain when he comes

I don’t need to haul my radios up mountains. The nearest mountain to where I live – naively called “Kemble Mountain” – is just a local high point along the Niagara Escarpment. I could ride a bicycle up it’s south face in five minutes. So, no mountains, no need for ultra-light radio equipment. I can carry my outdoor portable wireless sets in a backpack when operating on a trail. So once again: why did I buy a sub-miniature radio? Oh yes, it’s cute; like a little puppy. Now I have my QMX, I really like the little thing so it’s definitely a keeper.

But I like BIG radios

Let’s look at it this way: the QMX is BIG on features, now all I gotta do is fix its physical size. I think I have a solution – strap it to a brick; well actually a Lithium Iron Phosphate brick.

I have rebuilt my QMX-based portable wireless communication set so many times and yet here I go again. As you can see from the picture above, the “brick” is an Eco Worthy 8 Ah Lithium Iron Phosphate battery. Its main function is to anchor the QMX to the surface of the planet – a task it performs admirably well. Oh, yes, it also powers the QMX.

What??? An 8 Ah battery could supply power to half a dozen QMX radios! Yes, but I refer you to its primary function. In fact the high capacity battery is very useful when I venture forth on a multi-day radio road trip. I charge the battery at home with a Sky Toppower PS3010H constant current, constant voltage bench power supply (available on Amazon).

Charging details: I programmed the PS3010H to charge the battery at a constant current of 1.0 amp up to a terminal voltage of 14.2 volts and then to automagically switch to constant voltage until the charging current drops to zero. The battery is then good for several days of operating.

By the way, all those R&D boffins, collectively known as Hans, fixed one of the most annoying features of the early QMX models, and that was the need to keep the supply voltage closely regulated to 12.00000000 volts. This was achieved by using series diodes in the supply line, or a buck converter. I chose the latter, and I have kept “Buck” in circuit despite the clever firmware fix that eliminated the need. I’m the kinda guy who wears a belt and suspenders to keep his pants up. Or maybe just think of it as a backup or redundancy system. If a future firmware release breaks the fix I won’t have to watch as the QMX’s delicate BS170 final transistors make a smoky ascent to the heavens.

And while I’m up on my soapbox …

The dastardly diminutive dimensions of the QMX are not my only gripe. Small size dictates small connections to the outside world. Ok, I have griped about this before, but I don’t like tiny connectors – those one-eighth of an inch (3.5 mm) jacks for hooking up earphones and paddle keys are a failure point waiting to happen – especially when subjected to the rigors of operating in the field. But, there is an easy solution; simply keep all accessories plugged in and there should not be a problem. Take a look at the picture below.

There is another benefit of this everything-connected-ready-to-go solution: it is literally ready to go. My QMX-on-a-brick kit is transported inside a rugged, waterproof European military respirator bag. I don’t even need to remove the rig from the bag to operate, simply hook up an antenna and start firing RF up to the Heaviside layer. No need to stop for several days, the battery is good for it.

There is something else I should mention …

If the QMX hadn’t been designed to be quite so small there is one other missed opportunity that could have been considered. When ordering a QMX transceiver there is a band selection decision to be made. I chose the low band version and that gives me 80m, 60m, 40m, 30m and 20m. Sometimes I wish I had chosen a version supporting the higher bands. Now imagine, if the original design had placed all the band specific components on a separate circuit board, we could possibly have popped open the case and switched circuit boards to gain access to more bands.

So, paraphrasing a song popular in some parts of the world, I ask again: “why was it born so beautiful, why was it born so small?”

Footnote:

It is easy to gripe but, in all seriousness, QRP-Labs founder and head honcho, Hans Summers has produced so many wonderful products for ham radio enthusiasts – and at very affordable prices too. As a well known British knight of the realm, who gathers no moss, once wrote: “You can’t always get what you want, but if you try sometime you find you get what you need”.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#OutdoorOps #Portable #QMX

There is a “small” problem with the QRP Labs QMX transceiver – and an easy fix

Why was it born so beautiful, why was it born so small?

I have to admit to a love/hate relationship with my microscopic, yet bursting with features, QMX transceiver. This marvel of technology is densely packed into a shirt pocket-sized sturdy aluminum case. Just how did the R&D department at Turkey’s QRP Labs manage to squeeze so much into so little? And the big question is why?

Way over yonder where Europe joins Asia lies a radio electronics laboratory in which the entire research and development department goes by the name Hans. My imagination conjures up a picture of something akin to Santa’s toy factory at the North Pole (where, incidentally, there is no land – just constantly shifting sea ice; sorry kids).

And why did I buy this marvelous, lilliputian, bite-sized box of electronic Turkish delight? I guess it was the cute factor – the same reason I bought my Yaesu FT-817 back when it was first released. I have thought about selling that FT-817 many times but that cute puppy dog front panel keeps looking up at me and I change my mind every time. My QMX is cute in a different way in that it’s very small size was the “flash the cash” factor that put my name at the bottom of a very long wait list. After a long 6-month delay I received my micro miracle and haven’t stopped using it ever since.

He’ll be coming up the mountain when he comes

I don’t need to haul my radios up mountains. The nearest mountain to where I live – naively called “Kemble Mountain” – is just a local high point along the Niagara Escarpment. I could ride a bicycle up it’s south face in five minutes. So, no mountains, no need for ultra-light radio equipment. I can carry my outdoor portable wireless sets in a backpack when operating on a trail. So once again: why did I buy a sub-miniature radio? Oh yes, it’s cute; like a little puppy. Now I have my QMX, I really like the little thing so it’s definitely a keeper.

But I like BIG radios

Let’s look at it this way: the QMX is BIG on features, now all I gotta do is fix its physical size. I think I have a solution – strap it to a brick; well actually a Lithium Iron Phosphate brick.

I have rebuilt my QMX-based portable wireless communication set so many times and yet here I go again. As you can see from the picture above, the “brick” is an Eco Worthy 8 Ah Lithium Iron Phosphate battery. Its main function is to anchor the QMX to the surface of the planet – a task it performs admirably well. Oh, yes, it also powers the QMX.

What??? An 8 Ah battery could supply power to half a dozen QMX radios! Yes, but I refer you to its primary function. In fact the high capacity battery is very useful when I venture forth on a multi-day radio road trip. I charge the battery at home with a Sky Toppower PS3010H constant current, constant voltage bench power supply (available on Amazon).

Charging details: I programmed the PS3010H to charge the battery at a constant current of 1.0 amp up to a terminal voltage of 14.2 volts and then to automagically switch to constant voltage until the charging current drops to zero. The battery is then good for several days of operating.

By the way, all those R&D boffins, collectively known as Hans, fixed one of the most annoying features of the early QMX models, and that was the need to keep the supply voltage closely regulated to 12.00000000 volts. This was achieved by using series diodes in the supply line, or a buck converter. I chose the latter, and I have kept “Buck” in circuit despite the clever firmware fix that eliminated the need. I’m the kinda guy who wears a belt and suspenders to keep his pants up. Or maybe just think of it as a backup or redundancy system. If a future firmware release breaks the fix I won’t have to watch as the QMX’s delicate BS170 final transistors make a smoky ascent to the heavens.

And while I’m up on my soapbox …

The dastardly diminutive dimensions of the QMX are not my only gripe. Small size dictates small connections to the outside world. Ok, I have griped about this before, but I don’t like tiny connectors – those one-eighth of an inch (3.5 mm) jacks for hooking up earphones and paddle keys are a failure point waiting to happen – especially when subjected to the rigors of operating in the field. But, there is an easy solution; simply keep all accessories plugged in and there should not be a problem. Take a look at the picture below.

There is another benefit of this everything-connected-ready-to-go solution: it is literally ready to go. My QMX-on-a-brick kit is transported inside a rugged, waterproof European military respirator bag. I don’t even need to remove the rig from the bag to operate, simply hook up an antenna and start firing RF up to the Heaviside layer. No need to stop for several days, the battery is good for it.

There is something else I should mention …

If the QMX hadn’t been designed to be quite so small there is one other missed opportunity that could have been considered. When ordering a QMX transceiver there is a band selection decision to be made. I chose the low band version and that gives me 80m, 60m, 40m, 30m and 20m. Sometimes I wish I had chosen a version supporting the higher bands. Now imagine, if the original design had placed all the band specific components on a separate circuit board, we could possibly have popped open the case and switched circuit boards to gain access to more bands.

So, paraphrasing a song popular in some parts of the world, I ask again: “why was it born so beautiful, why was it born so small?”

Footnote:

It is easy to gripe but, in all seriousness, QRP-Labs founder and head honcho, Hans Summers has produced so many wonderful products for ham radio enthusiasts – and at very affordable prices too. As a well known British knight of the realm, who gathers no moss, once wrote: “You can’t always get what you want, but if you try sometime you find you get what you need”.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#OutdoorOps #Portable #QMX

Zero-gravity CW paddles?

Ok, I confess, I’m a bit of a klutz when it comes to sending Morse Code. I started out, many years ago, with straight keys. I never got along with the typical flat knobs, I preferred “Navy Knobs” – the kind with a big round thing on top that you can really get a firm grip on and a wide flat disc below. The original purpose of the flat disc at the bottom was to discourage operators from touching the high voltage contacts underneath. There was always the possibility that an inattentive operator would touch the metal parts of the key – in the good old days of the electric telegraph, that is, whereupon his sending speed would either suddenly accelerate to 100 wpm or drop to zero, permanently.

My issue was my nervous tight grip. That resulted in me pounding brass in a very literal sense, sometimes lifting the key right off the table. But then I acquired a very nice set of Bencher paddles as part of a package of QRP gear I purchased from another ham. Paddles require a very light touch and so I learned to relax and control my heavy fist.

Over the years I acquired several more sets of paddles; I even built some of my own – with varying degrees of success. As well as being a klutz I am also of a miserly nature. A set of paddles is really just a simple two-way switch; why the heck should I spend hundreds of dollars for something I can build from an old hacksaw blade and a dollar’s worth of hardware?

And then, my growing interest in portable operating out in the Big Blue Sky Shack took hold. Now I needed paddles that were small, lightweight but still rock firm and stable. Hmmm? SMALL, LIGHTWEIGHT, STABLE – pick any two! New problem – small, lightweight paddles have a tendency to go skating across the table unless the operator has a very, very light touch. I do not.

And so it came to pass that I attended a local hamfest recently and picked up yet another set of paddles. They were inexpensive, which checked the miser’s box in the shopping list. They are also small, very small, very lightweight and … not so stable! Frankly it would take the touch of an angel to operate them without chasing them all across the table. I call them my zero-gravity paddles.

I really like my zero-gravity paddles but I had to find a way to stop them going on haphazard excursions across the table whenever I touched them. Their tiny rubber feet did not provide enough friction to keep them from moving around, so what could I do?

Oh no John, no John, no John, no!

Alrighty then, this first attempt was not my most inspired idea. Carrying a bench vise out to the field is pretty impractical – but it works fine business!

There had to be a better way. As Sir Isaac Newton could have maybe once said: “A set of paddles that are stationary or in motion continue in that state unless acted upon by an external force.” Well, speaking as that “external force”, I knew the onus was on me to create an equal and opposite force to oppose the force of my less than delicate keying.

As a young high school student I was fascinated by another famous scientist over in the Land of Hope and Glory. Among his many notable scientific achievements Michael Faraday was a pioneer in the field of magnetism. His discovery of a magnetic field surrounding a wire carrying electric current was perhaps the spark of genius that would later lead to the development of radio.

Thank you Sir Isaac and Mr Faraday

I am no great scientist myself but I am willing to learn from those in whose footsteps I am not worthy to tread. Now the solution that emerged from the mist was as simple and obvious as it could possibly be – magnets.

Drawing on the work of Sir Isaac Newton, the force of friction was insufficient to overcome the force of my over-enthusiastic keying, but thanks to the work of Michael Faraday, the force of magnetism is more than sufficient to solve the problem.

So, I carefully removed the glued-on rubber feet and replaced them with small, strong magnets. The paddles came inside an Altoids mint tin – actually a very old Altoids tin that is probably worth the price I paid for the paddles. Altoids were originally made in Great Britain (actually in Wales) before corporate buyouts moved production to Chattanooga, Tennessee.

That tin serves two purposes – it keeps the rather delicate paddles safe during storage and transport, and also acts as a base for the magnetically secured paddles. Now everything works as it should (except for my keying perhaps). These paddles have a very nice feel which improves my sending accuracy.

The ham who sold these paddles to me did mention the original source which I promptly forgot. If you recognize them perhaps you could let me know in the comments. And, if we meet on-the-air, these are most likely to be the paddles I’ll be using.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#CW #MorseCode #OutdoorOps

Zero-gravity CW paddles?

Ok, I confess, I’m a bit of a klutz when it comes to sending Morse Code. I started out, many years ago, with straight keys. I never got along with the typical flat knobs, I preferred “Navy Knobs” – the kind with a big round thing on top that you can really get a firm grip on and a wide flat disc below. The original purpose of the flat disc at the bottom was to discourage operators from touching the high voltage contacts underneath. There was always the possibility that an inattentive operator would touch the metal parts of the key – in the good old days of the electric telegraph, that is, whereupon his sending speed would either suddenly accelerate to 100 wpm or drop to zero, permanently.

My issue was my nervous tight grip. That resulted in me pounding brass in a very literal sense, sometimes lifting the key right off the table. But then I acquired a very nice set of Bencher paddles as part of a package of QRP gear I purchased from another ham. Paddles require a very light touch and so I learned to relax and control my heavy fist.

Over the years I acquired several more sets of paddles; I even built some of my own – with varying degrees of success. As well as being a klutz I am also of a miserly nature. A set of paddles is really just a simple two-way switch; why the heck should I spend hundreds of dollars for something I can build from an old hacksaw blade and a dollar’s worth of hardware?

And then, my growing interest in portable operating out in the Big Blue Sky Shack took hold. Now I needed paddles that were small, lightweight but still rock firm and stable. Hmmm? SMALL, LIGHTWEIGHT, STABLE – pick any two! New problem – small, lightweight paddles have a tendency to go skating across the table unless the operator has a very, very light touch. I do not.

And so it came to pass that I attended a local hamfest recently and picked up yet another set of paddles. They were inexpensive, which checked the miser’s box in the shopping list. They are also small, very small, very lightweight and … not so stable! Frankly it would take the touch of an angel to operate them without chasing them all across the table. I call them my zero-gravity paddles.

I really like my zero-gravity paddles but I had to find a way to stop them going on haphazard excursions across the table whenever I touched them. Their tiny rubber feet did not provide enough friction to keep them from moving around, so what could I do?

Oh no John, no John, no John, no!

Alrighty then, this first attempt was not my most inspired idea. Carrying a bench vise out to the field is pretty impractical – but it works fine business!

There had to be a better way. As Sir Isaac Newton could have maybe once said: “A set of paddles that are stationary or in motion continue in that state unless acted upon by an external force.” Well, speaking as that “external force”, I knew the onus was on me to create an equal and opposite force to oppose the force of my less than delicate keying.

As a young high school student I was fascinated by another famous scientist over in the Land of Hope and Glory. Among his many notable scientific achievements Michael Faraday was a pioneer in the field of magnetism. His discovery of a magnetic field surrounding a wire carrying electric current was perhaps the spark of genius that would later lead to the development of radio.

Thank you Sir Isaac and Mr Faraday

I am no great scientist myself but I am willing to learn from those in whose footsteps I am not worthy to tread. Now the solution that emerged from the mist was as simple and obvious as it could possibly be – magnets.

Drawing on the work of Sir Isaac Newton, the force of friction was insufficient to overcome the force of my over-enthusiastic keying, but thanks to the work of Michael Faraday, the force of magnetism is more than sufficient to solve the problem.

So, I carefully removed the glued-on rubber feet and replaced them with small, strong magnets. The paddles came inside an Altoids mint tin – actually a very old Altoids tin that is probably worth the price I paid for the paddles. Altoids were originally made in Great Britain (actually in Wales) before corporate buyouts moved production to Chattanooga, Tennessee.

That tin serves two purposes – it keeps the rather delicate paddles safe during storage and transport, and also acts as a base for the magnetically secured paddles. Now everything works as it should (except for my keying perhaps). These paddles have a very nice feel which improves my sending accuracy.

The ham who sold these paddles to me did mention the original source which I promptly forgot. If you recognize them perhaps you could let me know in the comments. And, if we meet on-the-air, these are most likely to be the paddles I’ll be using.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#CW #MorseCode #OutdoorOps

Zero-gravity CW paddles?

Ok, I confess, I’m a bit of a klutz when it comes to sending Morse Code. I started out, many years ago, with straight keys. I never got along with the typical flat knobs, I preferred “Navy Knobs” – the kind with a big round thing on top that you can really get a firm grip on and a wide flat disc below. The original purpose of the flat disc at the bottom was to discourage operators from touching the high voltage contacts underneath. There was always the possibility that an inattentive operator would touch the metal parts of the key – in the good old days of the electric telegraph, that is, whereupon his sending speed would either suddenly accelerate to 100 wpm or drop to zero, permanently.

My issue was my nervous tight grip. That resulted in me pounding brass in a very literal sense, sometimes lifting the key right off the table. But then I acquired a very nice set of Bencher paddles as part of a package of QRP gear I purchased from another ham. Paddles require a very light touch and so I learned to relax and control my heavy fist.

Over the years I acquired several more sets of paddles; I even built some of my own – with varying degrees of success. As well as being a klutz I am also of a miserly nature. A set of paddles is really just a simple two-way switch; why the heck should I spend hundreds of dollars for something I can build from an old hacksaw blade and a dollar’s worth of hardware?

And then, my growing interest in portable operating out in the Big Blue Sky Shack took hold. Now I needed paddles that were small, lightweight but still rock firm and stable. Hmmm? SMALL, LIGHTWEIGHT, STABLE – pick any two! New problem – small, lightweight paddles have a tendency to go skating across the table unless the operator has a very, very light touch. I do not.

And so it came to pass that I attended a local hamfest recently and picked up yet another set of paddles. They were inexpensive, which checked the miser’s box in the shopping list. They are also small, very small, very lightweight and … not so stable! Frankly it would take the touch of an angel to operate them without chasing them all across the table. I call them my zero-gravity paddles.

I really like my zero-gravity paddles but I had to find a way to stop them going on haphazard excursions across the table whenever I touched them. Their tiny rubber feet did not provide enough friction to keep them from moving around, so what could I do?

Oh no John, no John, no John, no!

Alrighty then, this first attempt was not my most inspired idea. Carrying a bench vise out to the field is pretty impractical – but it works fine business!

There had to be a better way. As Sir Isaac Newton could have maybe once said: “A set of paddles that are stationary or in motion continue in that state unless acted upon by an external force.” Well, speaking as that “external force”, I knew the onus was on me to create an equal and opposite force to oppose the force of my less than delicate keying.

As a young high school student I was fascinated by another famous scientist over in the Land of Hope and Glory. Among his many notable scientific achievements Michael Faraday was a pioneer in the field of magnetism. His discovery of a magnetic field surrounding a wire carrying electric current was perhaps the spark of genius that would later lead to the development of radio.

Thank you Sir Isaac and Mr Faraday

I am no great scientist myself but I am willing to learn from those in whose footsteps I am not worthy to tread. Now the solution that emerged from the mist was as simple and obvious as it could possibly be – magnets.

Drawing on the work of Sir Isaac Newton, the force of friction was insufficient to overcome the force of my over-enthusiastic keying, but thanks to the work of Michael Faraday, the force of magnetism is more than sufficient to solve the problem.

So, I carefully removed the glued-on rubber feet and replaced them with small, strong magnets. The paddles came inside an Altoids mint tin – actually a very old Altoids tin that is probably worth the price I paid for the paddles. Altoids were originally made in Great Britain (actually in Wales) before corporate buyouts moved production to Chattanooga, Tennessee.

That tin serves two purposes – it keeps the rather delicate paddles safe during storage and transport, and also acts as a base for the magnetically secured paddles. Now everything works as it should (except for my keying perhaps). These paddles have a very nice feel which improves my sending accuracy.

The ham who sold these paddles to me did mention the original source which I promptly forgot. If you recognize them perhaps you could let me know in the comments. And, if we meet on-the-air, these are most likely to be the paddles I’ll be using.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#CW #MorseCode #OutdoorOps

Zero-gravity CW paddles?

Ok, I confess, I’m a bit of a klutz when it comes to sending Morse Code. I started out, many years ago, with straight keys. I never got along with the typical flat knobs, I preferred “Navy Knobs” – the kind with a big round thing on top that you can really get a firm grip on and a wide flat disc below. The original purpose of the flat disc at the bottom was to discourage operators from touching the high voltage contacts underneath. There was always the possibility that an inattentive operator would touch the metal parts of the key – in the good old days of the electric telegraph, that is, whereupon his sending speed would either suddenly accelerate to 100 wpm or drop to zero, permanently.

My issue was my nervous tight grip. That resulted in me pounding brass in a very literal sense, sometimes lifting the key right off the table. But then I acquired a very nice set of Bencher paddles as part of a package of QRP gear I purchased from another ham. Paddles require a very light touch and so I learned to relax and control my heavy fist.

Over the years I acquired several more sets of paddles; I even built some of my own – with varying degrees of success. As well as being a klutz I am also of a miserly nature. A set of paddles is really just a simple two-way switch; why the heck should I spend hundreds of dollars for something I can build from an old hacksaw blade and a dollar’s worth of hardware?

And then, my growing interest in portable operating out in the Big Blue Sky Shack took hold. Now I needed paddles that were small, lightweight but still rock firm and stable. Hmmm? SMALL, LIGHTWEIGHT, STABLE – pick any two! New problem – small, lightweight paddles have a tendency to go skating across the table unless the operator has a very, very light touch. I do not.

And so it came to pass that I attended a local hamfest recently and picked up yet another set of paddles. They were inexpensive, which checked the miser’s box in the shopping list. They are also small, very small, very lightweight and … not so stable! Frankly it would take the touch of an angel to operate them without chasing them all across the table. I call them my zero-gravity paddles.

I really like my zero-gravity paddles but I had to find a way to stop them going on haphazard excursions across the table whenever I touched them. Their tiny rubber feet did not provide enough friction to keep them from moving around, so what could I do?

Oh no John, no John, no John, no!

Alrighty then, this first attempt was not my most inspired idea. Carrying a bench vise out to the field is pretty impractical – but it works fine business!

There had to be a better way. As Sir Isaac Newton could have maybe once said: “A set of paddles that are stationary or in motion continue in that state unless acted upon by an external force.” Well, speaking as that “external force”, I knew the onus was on me to create an equal and opposite force to oppose the force of my less than delicate keying.

As a young high school student I was fascinated by another famous scientist over in the Land of Hope and Glory. Among his many notable scientific achievements Michael Faraday was a pioneer in the field of magnetism. His discovery of a magnetic field surrounding a wire carrying electric current was perhaps the spark of genius that would later lead to the development of radio.

Thank you Sir Isaac and Mr Faraday

I am no great scientist myself but I am willing to learn from those in whose footsteps I am not worthy to tread. Now the solution that emerged from the mist was as simple and obvious as it could possibly be – magnets.

Drawing on the work of Sir Isaac Newton, the force of friction was insufficient to overcome the force of my over-enthusiastic keying, but thanks to the work of Michael Faraday, the force of magnetism is more than sufficient to solve the problem.

So, I carefully removed the glued-on rubber feet and replaced them with small, strong magnets. The paddles came inside an Altoids mint tin – actually a very old Altoids tin that is probably worth the price I paid for the paddles. Altoids were originally made in Great Britain (actually in Wales) before corporate buyouts moved production to Chattanooga, Tennessee.

That tin serves two purposes – it keeps the rather delicate paddles safe during storage and transport, and also acts as a base for the magnetically secured paddles. Now everything works as it should (except for my keying perhaps). These paddles have a very nice feel which improves my sending accuracy.

The ham who sold these paddles to me did mention the original source which I promptly forgot. If you recognize them perhaps you could let me know in the comments. And, if we meet on-the-air, these are most likely to be the paddles I’ll be using.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#CW #MorseCode #OutdoorOps

Zero-gravity CW paddles?

Ok, I confess, I’m a bit of a klutz when it comes to sending Morse Code. I started out, many years ago, with straight keys. I never got along with the typical flat knobs, I preferred “Navy Knobs” – the kind with a big round thing on top that you can really get a firm grip on and a wide flat disc below. The original purpose of the flat disc at the bottom was to discourage operators from touching the high voltage contacts underneath. There was always the possibility that an inattentive operator would touch the metal parts of the key – in the good old days of the electric telegraph, that is, whereupon his sending speed would either suddenly accelerate to 100 wpm or drop to zero, permanently.

My issue was my nervous tight grip. That resulted in me pounding brass in a very literal sense, sometimes lifting the key right off the table. But then I acquired a very nice set of Bencher paddles as part of a package of QRP gear I purchased from another ham. Paddles require a very light touch and so I learned to relax and control my heavy fist.

Over the years I acquired several more sets of paddles; I even built some of my own – with varying degrees of success. As well as being a klutz I am also of a miserly nature. A set of paddles is really just a simple two-way switch; why the heck should I spend hundreds of dollars for something I can build from an old hacksaw blade and a dollar’s worth of hardware?

And then, my growing interest in portable operating out in the Big Blue Sky Shack took hold. Now I needed paddles that were small, lightweight but still rock firm and stable. Hmmm? SMALL, LIGHTWEIGHT, STABLE – pick any two! New problem – small, lightweight paddles have a tendency to go skating across the table unless the operator has a very, very light touch. I do not.

And so it came to pass that I attended a local hamfest recently and picked up yet another set of paddles. They were inexpensive, which checked the miser’s box in the shopping list. They are also small, very small, very lightweight and … not so stable! Frankly it would take the touch of an angel to operate them without chasing them all across the table. I call them my zero-gravity paddles.

I really like my zero-gravity paddles but I had to find a way to stop them going on haphazard excursions across the table whenever I touched them. Their tiny rubber feet did not provide enough friction to keep them from moving around, so what could I do?

Oh no John, no John, no John, no!

Alrighty then, this first attempt was not my most inspired idea. Carrying a bench vise out to the field is pretty impractical – but it works fine business!

There had to be a better way. As Sir Isaac Newton could have maybe once said: “A set of paddles that are stationary or in motion continue in that state unless acted upon by an external force.” Well, speaking as that “external force”, I knew the onus was on me to create an equal and opposite force to oppose the force of my less than delicate keying.

As a young high school student I was fascinated by another famous scientist over in the Land of Hope and Glory. Among his many notable scientific achievements Michael Faraday was a pioneer in the field of magnetism. His discovery of a magnetic field surrounding a wire carrying electric current was perhaps the spark of genius that would later lead to the development of radio.

Thank you Sir Isaac and Mr Faraday

I am no great scientist myself but I am willing to learn from those in whose footsteps I am not worthy to tread. Now the solution that emerged from the mist was as simple and obvious as it could possibly be – magnets.

Drawing on the work of Sir Isaac Newton, the force of friction was insufficient to overcome the force of my over-enthusiastic keying, but thanks to the work of Michael Faraday, the force of magnetism is more than sufficient to solve the problem.

So, I carefully removed the glued-on rubber feet and replaced them with small, strong magnets. The paddles came inside an Altoids mint tin – actually a very old Altoids tin that is probably worth the price I paid for the paddles. Altoids were originally made in Great Britain (actually in Wales) before corporate buyouts moved production to Chattanooga, Tennessee.

That tin serves two purposes – it keeps the rather delicate paddles safe during storage and transport, and also acts as a base for the magnetically secured paddles. Now everything works as it should (except for my keying perhaps). These paddles have a very nice feel which improves my sending accuracy.

The ham who sold these paddles to me did mention the original source which I promptly forgot. If you recognize them perhaps you could let me know in the comments. And, if we meet on-the-air, these are most likely to be the paddles I’ll be using.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#CW #MorseCode #OutdoorOps

TechTip #3 Radials and counterpoises

TechTips on Ham Radio Outside Outside the Box are occasional short posts on specific technical topics. But beware, along with regular posts here on this blog, the content is not a definitive technical treatise and should not be read as such. I write about my own opinions and experiences; your opinions and experiences may be quite different. I welcome constructive feedback either in the comments or, if you prefer, by direct email.

“All lies and jest …

Still a man hears what he wants to hear and disregards the rest”. Paul Simon and Art Garfunkel sang those words in their song “The Boxer”. The words reflect how hams often react when our long-held, cherished beliefs are challenged. “My antenna just works, I don’t care about all that technical stuff” is a view I have heard – especially when the antenna cost hundreds of dollars. And nothing creates more exothermic debate than the subject of radials. Or is that counterpoises?

Definitive definitions

On Ham Radio Outside the Box, when the word “counterpoise” is used, it refers to the “other half of an antenna”. The “other half” could be 120 buried radials, or it could be a “magic carpet” (Faraday cloth). It could be a ground rod driven vertically into the ground. It could even be the ubiquitous (and apparently blessed by angels) 17 feet of wire laid on the ground. That magic length of 17 feet has been proved by thousands of QSOs so why care about all that technical stuff? Eh?

When you read the word “radial” here on Ham Radio Outside the Box it refers to a length of wire. A counterpoise may comprise one or one hundred and twenty radials. Radials could be buried in a shallow grave inches below the surface or they might be raised above ground. Buried radials – or even radial wires laid on the ground – are detuned by the ground and can be any length. Longer radials work better on the lower bands.

“Crickets are singin’ and lightning bugs are floatin on the breeze”

It’s been a while since I went “Fishing in the Dark” (for contacts on the radio) but I do spend a lot more of my on-air time out in the Big Blue Sky Shack, usually on a sunny afternoon – even if it’s only out in the backyard. If we venture out to a park to spend a couple of hours playing radio, we really aren’t going to waste that time laying out 120 radials. If an antenna needs ground radials I lay out between 4 and 8 of them. I know my antenna’s efficiency will be compromised, and I acknowledge the physics, but field expediency is the prime directive. Heck, I usually operate QRP in the field too; maybe I should try “QLF” (sending CW with my left foot) too. Some of my code buddies claim I’ve already mastered QLF!

Floatin’ on the breeze

Compromising efficiency is not mandatory. If we raise the antenna (a vertical whip) above ground. Now just a couple of tuned radials is as efficient as a rat’s nest of wires on the ground. A couple of radials? Why not just one radial? I was asked that question recently by a Ham Radio Outside the Box reader. I had to put on my physics graduate gown and mortarboard while I thought about that.

I started with the idea of a vertical dipole – that’s a quarter wave of wire on top of another quarter wave of wire with the feedpoint in the middle. Now let’s bend that dipole a little. Now it looks like a vertical radiator with a quarter wave high flying counterpoise. If we keep that configuration well above ground it should still be as efficient as a dipole.

I got wires in low places

How low can we go? My theory (which is open to debate) is based on interaction between that raised radial and the ground. The current in the radial wire induces an out of phase image in the ground. In the near field the image wave and the wave in the radial wire tend to partially or fully cancel each other.

The amplitude of the image wave in the ground varies based on two things. (1) the amplitude of the current in the radial, and (2) how close the radial is positioned with respect to ground. A high radial has almost no interaction with the ground, whereas a low radial will have a much greater interaction.

Now, let’s consider this: we can reduce the amplitude of the current wave in the counterpoise if the current is shared between more than one radial. Two radials each carry half the current; four radials each carry a quarter of the current. The lower the current, the lower the canceling effect of the image in the ground.

So we can conclude that it is fine and dandy to use low radials if there are a lot of them. On the other hand, a single radial should be kept well clear of the ground. Does that make sense, or didn’t I wake enough brain cells with my morning espresso today?

But wait, there’s more …

If the objective is to reduce the interaction with the ground, and the amplitude of the current wave in the radial wire(s) is a factor, there is another way – reduce transmitter power. See, QRP ain’t so bad after all!

Incidentally, the image wave in the ground travels more slowly than the current wave in the radial. If the length of the radial wire is one full wavelength, or more, the two waves eventually are in phase and the current is reinforced instead of being canceled. That is how Grasswire antennas work.

Murphy’s opinion

Electrically, a single raised radial will be efficient, subject to the conditions discussed. According to Murphy’s Law, if you use a single raised radial, you better anchor that antenna down good or the tension in that radial wire is gonna pull your antenna over. Murphy says two radials, 180 degrees apart, will keep it up.

#Antennas #Counterpoise #CW #Ground #OutdoorOps

TechTip #3 Radials and counterpoises

TechTips on Ham Radio Outside Outside the Box are occasional short posts on specific technical topics. But beware, along with regular posts here on this blog, the content is not a definitive technical treatise and should not be read as such. I write about my own opinions and experiences; your opinions and experiences may be quite different. I welcome constructive feedback either in the comments or, if you prefer, by direct email.

“All lies and jest …

Still a man hears what he wants to hear and disregards the rest”. Paul Simon and Art Garfunkel sang those words in their song “The Boxer”. The words reflect how hams often react when our long-held, cherished beliefs are challenged. “My antenna just works, I don’t care about all that technical stuff” is a view I have heard – especially when the antenna cost hundreds of dollars. And nothing creates more exothermic debate than the subject of radials. Or is that counterpoises?

Definitive definitions

On Ham Radio Outside the Box, when the word “counterpoise” is used, it refers to the “other half of an antenna”. The “other half” could be 120 buried radials, or it could be a “magic carpet” (Faraday cloth). It could be a ground rod driven vertically into the ground. It could even be the ubiquitous (and apparently blessed by angels) 17 feet of wire laid on the ground. That magic length of 17 feet has been proved by thousands of QSOs so why care about all that technical stuff? Eh?

When you read the word “radial” here on Ham Radio Outside the Box it refers to a length of wire. A counterpoise may comprise one or one hundred and twenty radials. Radials could be buried in a shallow grave inches below the surface or they might be raised above ground. Buried radials – or even radial wires laid on the ground – are detuned by the ground and can be any length. Longer radials work better on the lower bands.

“Crickets are singin’ and lightning bugs are floatin on the breeze”

It’s been a while since I went “Fishing in the Dark” (for contacts on the radio) but I do spend a lot more of my on-air time out in the Big Blue Sky Shack, usually on a sunny afternoon – even if it’s only out in the backyard. If we venture out to a park to spend a couple of hours playing radio, we really aren’t going to waste that time laying out 120 radials. If an antenna needs ground radials I lay out between 4 and 8 of them. I know my antenna’s efficiency will be compromised, and I acknowledge the physics, but field expediency is the prime directive. Heck, I usually operate QRP in the field too; maybe I should try “QLF” (sending CW with my left foot) too. Some of my code buddies claim I’ve already mastered QLF!

Floatin’ on the breeze

Compromising efficiency is not mandatory. If we raise the antenna (a vertical whip) above ground. Now just a couple of tuned radials is as efficient as a rat’s nest of wires on the ground. A couple of radials? Why not just one radial? I was asked that question recently by a Ham Radio Outside the Box reader. I had to put on my physics graduate gown and mortarboard while I thought about that.

I started with the idea of a vertical dipole – that’s a quarter wave of wire on top of another quarter wave of wire with the feedpoint in the middle. Now let’s bend that dipole a little. Now it looks like a vertical radiator with a quarter wave high flying counterpoise. If we keep that configuration well above ground it should still be as efficient as a dipole.

I got wires in low places

How low can we go? My theory (which is open to debate) is based on interaction between that raised radial and the ground. The current in the radial wire induces an out of phase image in the ground. In the near field the image wave and the wave in the radial wire tend to partially or fully cancel each other.

The amplitude of the image wave in the ground varies based on two things. (1) the amplitude of the current in the radial, and (2) how close the radial is positioned with respect to ground. A high radial has almost no interaction with the ground, whereas a low radial will have a much greater interaction.

Now, let’s consider this: we can reduce the amplitude of the current wave in the counterpoise if the current is shared between more than one radial. Two radials each carry half the current; four radials each carry a quarter of the current. The lower the current, the lower the canceling effect of the image in the ground.

So we can conclude that it is fine and dandy to use low radials if there are a lot of them. On the other hand, a single radial should be kept well clear of the ground. Does that make sense, or didn’t I wake enough brain cells with my morning espresso today?

But wait, there’s more …

If the objective is to reduce the interaction with the ground, and the amplitude of the current wave in the radial wire(s) is a factor, there is another way – reduce transmitter power. See, QRP ain’t so bad after all!

Incidentally, the image wave in the ground travels more slowly than the current wave in the radial. If the length of the radial wire is one full wavelength, or more, the two waves eventually are in phase and the current is reinforced instead of being canceled. That is how Grasswire antennas work.

Murphy’s opinion

Electrically, a single raised radial will be efficient, subject to the conditions discussed. According to Murphy’s Law, if you use a single raised radial, you better anchor that antenna down good or the tension in that radial wire is gonna pull your antenna over. Murphy says two radials, 180 degrees apart, will keep it up.

#Antennas #Counterpoise #CW #Ground #OutdoorOps

TechTip #3 Radials and counterpoises

TechTips on Ham Radio Outside Outside the Box are occasional short posts on specific technical topics. But beware, along with regular posts here on this blog, the content is not a definitive technical treatise and should not be read as such. I write about my own opinions and experiences; your opinions and experiences may be quite different. I welcome constructive feedback either in the comments or, if you prefer, by direct email.

“All lies and jest …

Still a man hears what he wants to hear and disregards the rest”. Paul Simon and Art Garfunkel sang those words in their song “The Boxer”. The words reflect how hams often react when our long-held, cherished beliefs are challenged. “My antenna just works, I don’t care about all that technical stuff” is a view I have heard – especially when the antenna cost hundreds of dollars. And nothing creates more exothermic debate than the subject of radials. Or is that counterpoises?

Definitive definitions

On Ham Radio Outside the Box, when the word “counterpoise” is used, it refers to the “other half of an antenna”. The “other half” could be 120 buried radials, or it could be a “magic carpet” (Faraday cloth). It could be a ground rod driven vertically into the ground. It could even be the ubiquitous (and apparently blessed by angels) 17 feet of wire laid on the ground. That magic length of 17 feet has been proved by thousands of QSOs so why care about all that technical stuff? Eh?

When you read the word “radial” here on Ham Radio Outside the Box it refers to a length of wire. A counterpoise may comprise one or one hundred and twenty radials. Radials could be buried in a shallow grave inches below the surface or they might be raised above ground. Buried radials – or even radial wires laid on the ground – are detuned by the ground and can be any length. Longer radials work better on the lower bands.

“Crickets are singin’ and lightning bugs are floatin on the breeze”

It’s been a while since I went “Fishing in the Dark” (for contacts on the radio) but I do spend a lot more of my on-air time out in the Big Blue Sky Shack, usually on a sunny afternoon – even if it’s only out in the backyard. If we venture out to a park to spend a couple of hours playing radio, we really aren’t going to waste that time laying out 120 radials. If an antenna needs ground radials I lay out between 4 and 8 of them. I know my antenna’s efficiency will be compromised, and I acknowledge the physics, but field expediency is the prime directive. Heck, I usually operate QRP in the field too; maybe I should try “QLF” (sending CW with my left foot) too. Some of my code buddies claim I’ve already mastered QLF!

Floatin’ on the breeze

Compromising efficiency is not mandatory. If we raise the antenna (a vertical whip) above ground. Now just a couple of tuned radials is as efficient as a rat’s nest of wires on the ground. A couple of radials? Why not just one radial? I was asked that question recently by a Ham Radio Outside the Box reader. I had to put on my physics graduate gown and mortarboard while I thought about that.

I started with the idea of a vertical dipole – that’s a quarter wave of wire on top of another quarter wave of wire with the feedpoint in the middle. Now let’s bend that dipole a little. Now it looks like a vertical radiator with a quarter wave high flying counterpoise. If we keep that configuration well above ground it should still be as efficient as a dipole.

I got wires in low places

How low can we go? My theory (which is open to debate) is based on interaction between that raised radial and the ground. The current in the radial wire induces an out of phase image in the ground. In the near field the image wave and the wave in the radial wire tend to partially or fully cancel each other.

The amplitude of the image wave in the ground varies based on two things. (1) the amplitude of the current in the radial, and (2) how close the radial is positioned with respect to ground. A high radial has almost no interaction with the ground, whereas a low radial will have a much greater interaction.

Now, let’s consider this: we can reduce the amplitude of the current wave in the counterpoise if the current is shared between more than one radial. Two radials each carry half the current; four radials each carry a quarter of the current. The lower the current, the lower the canceling effect of the image in the ground.

So we can conclude that it is fine and dandy to use low radials if there are a lot of them. On the other hand, a single radial should be kept well clear of the ground. Does that make sense, or didn’t I wake enough brain cells with my morning espresso today?

But wait, there’s more …

If the objective is to reduce the interaction with the ground, and the amplitude of the current wave in the radial wire(s) is a factor, there is another way – reduce transmitter power. See, QRP ain’t so bad after all!

Incidentally, the image wave in the ground travels more slowly than the current wave in the radial. If the length of the radial wire is one full wavelength, or more, the two waves eventually are in phase and the current is reinforced instead of being canceled. That is how Grasswire antennas work.

Murphy’s opinion

Electrically, a single raised radial will be efficient, subject to the conditions discussed. According to Murphy’s Law, if you use a single raised radial, you better anchor that antenna down good or the tension in that radial wire is gonna pull your antenna over. Murphy says two radials, 180 degrees apart, will keep it up.

#Antennas #Counterpoise #CW #Ground #OutdoorOps

TechTip #3 Radials and counterpoises

TechTips on Ham Radio Outside Outside the Box are occasional short posts on specific technical topics. But beware, along with regular posts here on this blog, the content is not a definitive technical treatise and should not be read as such. I write about my own opinions and experiences; your opinions and experiences may be quite different. I welcome constructive feedback either in the comments or, if you prefer, by direct email.

“All lies and jest …

Still a man hears what he wants to hear and disregards the rest”. Paul Simon and Art Garfunkel sang those words in their song “The Boxer”. The words reflect how hams often react when our long-held, cherished beliefs are challenged. “My antenna just works, I don’t care about all that technical stuff” is a view I have heard – especially when the antenna cost hundreds of dollars. And nothing creates more exothermic debate than the subject of radials. Or is that counterpoises?

Definitive definitions

On Ham Radio Outside the Box, when the word “counterpoise” is used, it refers to the “other half of an antenna”. The “other half” could be 120 buried radials, or it could be a “magic carpet” (Faraday cloth). It could be a ground rod driven vertically into the ground. It could even be the ubiquitous (and apparently blessed by angels) 17 feet of wire laid on the ground. That magic length of 17 feet has been proved by thousands of QSOs so why care about all that technical stuff? Eh?

When you read the word “radial” here on Ham Radio Outside the Box it refers to a length of wire. A counterpoise may comprise one or one hundred and twenty radials. Radials could be buried in a shallow grave inches below the surface or they might be raised above ground. Buried radials – or even radial wires laid on the ground – are detuned by the ground and can be any length. Longer radials work better on the lower bands.

“Crickets are singin’ and lightning bugs are floatin on the breeze”

It’s been a while since I went “Fishing in the Dark” (for contacts on the radio) but I do spend a lot more of my on-air time out in the Big Blue Sky Shack, usually on a sunny afternoon – even if it’s only out in the backyard. If we venture out to a park to spend a couple of hours playing radio, we really aren’t going to waste that time laying out 120 radials. If an antenna needs ground radials I lay out between 4 and 8 of them. I know my antenna’s efficiency will be compromised, and I acknowledge the physics, but field expediency is the prime directive. Heck, I usually operate QRP in the field too; maybe I should try “QLF” (sending CW with my left foot) too. Some of my code buddies claim I’ve already mastered QLF!

Floatin’ on the breeze

Compromising efficiency is not mandatory. If we raise the antenna (a vertical whip) above ground. Now just a couple of tuned radials is as efficient as a rat’s nest of wires on the ground. A couple of radials? Why not just one radial? I was asked that question recently by a Ham Radio Outside the Box reader. I had to put on my physics graduate gown and mortarboard while I thought about that.

I started with the idea of a vertical dipole – that’s a quarter wave of wire on top of another quarter wave of wire with the feedpoint in the middle. Now let’s bend that dipole a little. Now it looks like a vertical radiator with a quarter wave high flying counterpoise. If we keep that configuration well above ground it should still be as efficient as a dipole.

I got wires in low places

How low can we go? My theory (which is open to debate) is based on interaction between that raised radial and the ground. The current in the radial wire induces an out of phase image in the ground. In the near field the image wave and the wave in the radial wire tend to partially or fully cancel each other.

The amplitude of the image wave in the ground varies based on two things. (1) the amplitude of the current in the radial, and (2) how close the radial is positioned with respect to ground. A high radial has almost no interaction with the ground, whereas a low radial will have a much greater interaction.

Now, let’s consider this: we can reduce the amplitude of the current wave in the counterpoise if the current is shared between more than one radial. Two radials each carry half the current; four radials each carry a quarter of the current. The lower the current, the lower the canceling effect of the image in the ground.

So we can conclude that it is fine and dandy to use low radials if there are a lot of them. On the other hand, a single radial should be kept well clear of the ground. Does that make sense, or didn’t I wake enough brain cells with my morning espresso today?

But wait, there’s more …

If the objective is to reduce the interaction with the ground, and the amplitude of the current wave in the radial wire(s) is a factor, there is another way – reduce transmitter power. See, QRP ain’t so bad after all!

Incidentally, the image wave in the ground travels more slowly than the current wave in the radial. If the length of the radial wire is one full wavelength, or more, the two waves eventually are in phase and the current is reinforced instead of being canceled. That is how Grasswire antennas work.

Murphy’s opinion

Electrically, a single raised radial will be efficient, subject to the conditions discussed. According to Murphy’s Law, if you use a single raised radial, you better anchor that antenna down good or the tension in that radial wire is gonna pull your antenna over. Murphy says two radials, 180 degrees apart, will keep it up.

#Antennas #Counterpoise #CW #Ground #OutdoorOps

A 5-Band, Lazy-L, Linear-Loaded, Ladder Line Antenna (aka the “5B6L”)

About a year ago I mentioned an antenna devised by Peter Waters G3OJV that used a 13 feet (4 m) vertical wire to create a multiband antenna. I used Peter’s idea to create “A Simple, Low Profile, Multiband Antenna for POTA“. The antenna was designed to work on 20m, 17m, 15m, 12m and 10m with the aid of a tuner. But, I discovered a small problem on the 17m band. If we do the elementary calculation for the length of a quarter-wave radiator at the bottom end of the band (18.068 MHz) we find that it works out to be 12.95 ft – just a whisker short of the 13 ft recommended by G3OJV. So why is that a problem?

The problem arises because the antenna uses a 4:1 unun at the feedpoint. Since the 13 ft length is already almost resonant on 17 meters, the 4:1 unun makes the job of the tuner much harder. That did indeed prove to be the case when I tested my derivative in the field. So, I made a small change when designing the new 5B6L antenna – I increased the length to 14 feet (4.2672 meters) – well … not quite true, but that is the underlying principal behind the linear-loaded equivalent.

Here are the calculated lengths of a quarter-wave radiator at the mid-point of each of the five bands of interest:

20m: 16.6 feet17m: 12.92 feet15m: 11 feet12m: 9.39 feet10m: 8.11 feet

A 14ft radiator slips nicely in between the 20m and 17m quarter wavelengths and becomes a “random length” on all 5 bands. Nice. But this is a linear-loaded antenna made from ladder line. Linear-loading shortens the required length by around 30%. Fourteen feet, shortened by 30% works out to 9.8 feet (~3 meters). After field adjustments I settled on a length of 9.75 ft (a little less than 3 meters).

Lose the radials!

I wanted this antenna to be what could be loosely described as a random length dipole – two equal lengths of ladder line (each shorted at one end) so that was how it was constructed. Now we have the benefit of versatility. It could be erected as a traditional dipole although with two very short arms it would be tricky to get it up in the air. It could also be erected as a vertical dipole on a support pole about 7 meters (23 feet) tall like my Spiderbeam. But that would make it difficult to orient the coax feedline so that it comes away from the antenna at 90 degrees, as is required to prevent the feedline picking up some of the radiated signal. Perhaps a sloper would work; now that is a very viable solution.

How ‘Bout a Lazy-L?

One of the YouTube channels I follow is “Jim’s Cool Stuff“. In one of his videos Jim suggested using a “Lazy-L” orientation of a vertical simple wire radiator and single raised radial wire. Why? The purpose is to increase the take-off angle. A vertical antenna usually has a very low take-off angle which is great for chasing DX, but what about shorter-range contacts? From my location in Southern Ontario, Canada it is only a short hop down to the north-eastern states in the USA. The US northeast has a very large concentration of amateur radio operators many of which participate in popular activities like POTA. A vertical antenna is likely to send my signal whistling over their heads, or at the very least, be received at a reduced level.

A Lazy-L configuration optimizes radiation to favor short to mid-range contacts by raising the take-off angle to achieve much shorter hops. Does it work? Yes indeed, during test operations I have been able to make contacts, just over the shallow puddle they call Lake Erie, into Pennsylvania, and across Lake Ontario into the state of New York, with quite respectable signal reports for my QRP CW signal.

The 5B6L antenna erected for test transmissions

But what about DX?

Stations on the west coast of the US or western Canada could be considered almost DX – each is thousands of kilometers away. No problem! I said this antenna has versatility. The Lazy-L configuration can be re-oriented to a straightforward regular vertical with a raised counterpoise very easily. In fact the angle at which the radiating element leans can be adjusted to find an optimum at which near-DX and short hop stations all fall within its radiation pattern.

How to Build a 5B6L

The following describes construction of a 5-Band, Linear-Loaded, Ladder Line antenna that can be operated on 20m, 17m, 15m, 12m and 10m with the use of a tuner. Materials needed are:

• Ladder Line. I recommend stranded conductors because this makes the ladder line more flexible than solid copper conductors. Use of the 5B6L as a field portable antenna may stress solid conductors and lead to failures.
• a 4:1 unun. This item can be purchased or you can build your own using twin lead speaker wire (or similar) wound around a type-43 ferrite toroid

Ham Made 4:1 unun

Instructions

• Cut two lengths of ladder line each 10 feet (3 meters) long. These may need to be trimmed during testing.
• Connect the two conductors of each piece of ladder line together at one end only.
• At the other end of each piece of ladder line, cut off the end of one of the conductors.
• Strip the insulation from the other conductor – this will be connected to the 4:1 unun.
• Connect each piece of ladder line to the unun.

Erection of the antenna

Attach a coax feedline to the 4:1 unun. A tuner may be inserted at this end if desired. For practical purposes, unless a very long coax is used, the SWR losses in the coax will not be significant so a tuner at the radio end can be used.

Set up your choice of pole, or other support, attach one end of the antenna to the top of the pole. The other end of the sloping radiating element (the feedpoint) should be supported on a short stick.

The other half of the antenna serves as a raised counterpoise and its far end can be supported by, for example, a trekking pole.

The slope angle can be adjusted by simply moving the counterpoise support sticks. See what works best for you. The whole antenna can be quite stealthy. I erected mine on only a 10 feet high pole. Efficiency may be improved by using a taller support but I prefer stealth when operating in public spaces. Tall antennas arouse suspicion!

The end is nigh!

A generous friend donated a lot of ladder line some time ago and I have used all but a few feet of it. Maybe it’s time to experiment with something different. So my next project – take a deep breath – is something I have been writing about in unflattering terms recently – a short, base loaded whip! What? Have I been enjoying too much Scottish champagne? Well, I thought it would be an interesting challenge to see how efficient I could make a short-ish whip antenna with a base-loading coil. A prototype has been constructed and has made contacts in backyard tests (with my helping fingers tapping on the key ). When the design has been completed you will be able to read about here on Ham Radio Outside the Box. Stay tuned.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#AmateurRadio #Antennas #Counterpoise #CW #Ground #OutdoorOps #Portable #POTA

A 5-Band, Lazy-L, Linear-Loaded, Ladder Line Antenna (aka the “5B6L”)

About a year ago I mentioned an antenna devised by Peter Waters G3OJV that used a 13 feet (4 m) vertical wire to create a multiband antenna. I used Peter’s idea to create “A Simple, Low Profile, Multiband Antenna for POTA“. The antenna was designed to work on 20m, 17m, 15m, 12m and 10m with the aid of a tuner. But, I discovered a small problem on the 17m band. If we do the elementary calculation for the length of a quarter-wave radiator at the bottom end of the band (18.068 MHz) we find that it works out to be 12.95 ft – just a whisker short of the 13 ft recommended by G3OJV. So why is that a problem?

The problem arises because the antenna uses a 4:1 unun at the feedpoint. Since the 13 ft length is already almost resonant on 17 meters, the 4:1 unun makes the job of the tuner much harder. That did indeed prove to be the case when I tested my derivative in the field. So, I made a small change when designing the new 5B6L antenna – I increased the length to 14 feet (4.2672 meters) – well … not quite true, but that is the underlying principal behind the linear-loaded equivalent.

Here are the calculated lengths of a quarter-wave radiator at the mid-point of each of the five bands of interest:

20m: 16.6 feet17m: 12.92 feet15m: 11 feet12m: 9.39 feet10m: 8.11 feet

A 14ft radiator slips nicely in between the 20m and 17m quarter wavelengths and becomes a “random length” on all 5 bands. Nice. But this is a linear-loaded antenna made from ladder line. Linear-loading shortens the required length by around 30%. Fourteen feet, shortened by 30% works out to 9.8 feet (~3 meters). After field adjustments I settled on a length of 9.75 ft (a little less than 3 meters).

Lose the radials!

I wanted this antenna to be what could be loosely described as a random length dipole – two equal lengths of ladder line (each shorted at one end) so that was how it was constructed. Now we have the benefit of versatility. It could be erected as a traditional dipole although with two very short arms it would be tricky to get it up in the air. It could also be erected as a vertical dipole on a support pole about 7 meters (23 feet) tall like my Spiderbeam. But that would make it difficult to orient the coax feedline so that it comes away from the antenna at 90 degrees, as is required to prevent the feedline picking up some of the radiated signal. Perhaps a sloper would work; now that is a very viable solution.

How ‘Bout a Lazy-L?

One of the YouTube channels I follow is “Jim’s Cool Stuff“. In one of his videos Jim suggested using a “Lazy-L” orientation of a vertical simple wire radiator and single raised radial wire. Why? The purpose is to increase the take-off angle. A vertical antenna usually has a very low take-off angle which is great for chasing DX, but what about shorter-range contacts? From my location in Southern Ontario, Canada it is only a short hop down to the north-eastern states in the USA. The US northeast has a very large concentration of amateur radio operators many of which participate in popular activities like POTA. A vertical antenna is likely to send my signal whistling over their heads, or at the very least, be received at a reduced level.

A Lazy-L configuration optimizes radiation to favor short to mid-range contacts by raising the take-off angle to achieve much shorter hops. Does it work? Yes indeed, during test operations I have been able to make contacts, just over the shallow puddle they call Lake Erie, into Pennsylvania, and across Lake Ontario into the state of New York, with quite respectable signal reports for my QRP CW signal.

The 5B6L antenna erected for test transmissions

But what about DX?

Stations on the west coast of the US or western Canada could be considered almost DX – each is thousands of kilometers away. No problem! I said this antenna has versatility. The Lazy-L configuration can be re-oriented to a straightforward regular vertical with a raised counterpoise very easily. In fact the angle at which the radiating element leans can be adjusted to find an optimum at which near-DX and short hop stations all fall within its radiation pattern.

How to Build a 5B6L

The following describes construction of a 5-Band, Linear-Loaded, Ladder Line antenna that can be operated on 20m, 17m, 15m, 12m and 10m with the use of a tuner. Materials needed are:

• Ladder Line. I recommend stranded conductors because this makes the ladder line more flexible than solid copper conductors. Use of the 5B6L as a field portable antenna may stress solid conductors and lead to failures.
• a 4:1 unun. This item can be purchased or you can build your own using twin lead speaker wire (or similar) wound around a type-43 ferrite toroid

Ham Made 4:1 unun

Instructions

• Cut two lengths of ladder line each 10 feet (3 meters) long. These may need to be trimmed during testing.
• Connect the two conductors of each piece of ladder line together at one end only.
• At the other end of each piece of ladder line, cut off the end of one of the conductors.
• Strip the insulation from the other conductor – this will be connected to the 4:1 unun.
• Connect each piece of ladder line to the unun.

Erection of the antenna

Attach a coax feedline to the 4:1 unun. A tuner may be inserted at this end if desired. For practical purposes, unless a very long coax is used, the SWR losses in the coax will not be significant so a tuner at the radio end can be used.

Set up your choice of pole, or other support, attach one end of the antenna to the top of the pole. The other end of the sloping radiating element (the feedpoint) should be supported on a short stick.

The other half of the antenna serves as a raised counterpoise and its far end can be supported by, for example, a trekking pole.

The slope angle can be adjusted by simply moving the counterpoise support sticks. See what works best for you. The whole antenna can be quite stealthy. I erected mine on only a 10 feet high pole. Efficiency may be improved by using a taller support but I prefer stealth when operating in public spaces. Tall antennas arouse suspicion!

The end is nigh!

A generous friend donated a lot of ladder line some time ago and I have used all but a few feet of it. Maybe it’s time to experiment with something different. So my next project – take a deep breath – is something I have been writing about in unflattering terms recently – a short, base loaded whip! What? Have I been enjoying too much Scottish champagne? Well, I thought it would be an interesting challenge to see how efficient I could make a short-ish whip antenna with a base-loading coil. A prototype has been constructed and has made contacts in backyard tests (with my helping fingers tapping on the key ). When the design has been completed you will be able to read about here on Ham Radio Outside the Box. Stay tuned.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#AmateurRadio #Antennas #Counterpoise #CW #Ground #OutdoorOps #Portable #POTA

A 5-Band, Lazy-L, Linear-Loaded, Ladder Line Antenna (aka the “5B6L”)

About a year ago I mentioned an antenna devised by Peter Waters G3OJV that used a 13 feet (4 m) vertical wire to create a multiband antenna. I used Peter’s idea to create “A Simple, Low Profile, Multiband Antenna for POTA“. The antenna was designed to work on 20m, 17m, 15m, 12m and 10m with the aid of a tuner. But, I discovered a small problem on the 17m band. If we do the elementary calculation for the length of a quarter-wave radiator at the bottom end of the band (18.068 MHz) we find that it works out to be 12.95 ft – just a whisker short of the 13 ft recommended by G3OJV. So why is that a problem?

The problem arises because the antenna uses a 4:1 unun at the feedpoint. Since the 13 ft length is already almost resonant on 17 meters, the 4:1 unun makes the job of the tuner much harder. That did indeed prove to be the case when I tested my derivative in the field. So, I made a small change when designing the new 5B6L antenna – I increased the length to 14 feet (4.2672 meters) – well … not quite true, but that is the underlying principal behind the linear-loaded equivalent.

Here are the calculated lengths of a quarter-wave radiator at the mid-point of each of the five bands of interest:

20m: 16.6 feet17m: 12.92 feet15m: 11 feet12m: 9.39 feet10m: 8.11 feet

A 14ft radiator slips nicely in between the 20m and 17m quarter wavelengths and becomes a “random length” on all 5 bands. Nice. But this is a linear-loaded antenna made from ladder line. Linear-loading shortens the required length by around 30%. Fourteen feet, shortened by 30% works out to 9.8 feet (~3 meters). After field adjustments I settled on a length of 9.75 ft (a little less than 3 meters).

Lose the radials!

I wanted this antenna to be what could be loosely described as a random length dipole – two equal lengths of ladder line (each shorted at one end) so that was how it was constructed. Now we have the benefit of versatility. It could be erected as a traditional dipole although with two very short arms it would be tricky to get it up in the air. It could also be erected as a vertical dipole on a support pole about 7 meters (23 feet) tall like my Spiderbeam. But that would make it difficult to orient the coax feedline so that it comes away from the antenna at 90 degrees, as is required to prevent the feedline picking up some of the radiated signal. Perhaps a sloper would work; now that is a very viable solution.

How ‘Bout a Lazy-L?

One of the YouTube channels I follow is “Jim’s Cool Stuff“. In one of his videos Jim suggested using a “Lazy-L” orientation of a vertical simple wire radiator and single raised radial wire. Why? The purpose is to increase the take-off angle. A vertical antenna usually has a very low take-off angle which is great for chasing DX, but what about shorter-range contacts? From my location in Southern Ontario, Canada it is only a short hop down to the north-eastern states in the USA. The US northeast has a very large concentration of amateur radio operators many of which participate in popular activities like POTA. A vertical antenna is likely to send my signal whistling over their heads, or at the very least, be received at a reduced level.

A Lazy-L configuration optimizes radiation to favor short to mid-range contacts by raising the take-off angle to achieve much shorter hops. Does it work? Yes indeed, during test operations I have been able to make contacts, just over the shallow puddle they call Lake Erie, into Pennsylvania, and across Lake Ontario into the state of New York, with quite respectable signal reports for my QRP CW signal.

The 5B6L antenna erected for test transmissions

But what about DX?

Stations on the west coast of the US or western Canada could be considered almost DX – each is thousands of kilometers away. No problem! I said this antenna has versatility. The Lazy-L configuration can be re-oriented to a straightforward regular vertical with a raised counterpoise very easily. In fact the angle at which the radiating element leans can be adjusted to find an optimum at which near-DX and short hop stations all fall within its radiation pattern.

How to Build a 5B6L

The following describes construction of a 5-Band, Linear-Loaded, Ladder Line antenna that can be operated on 20m, 17m, 15m, 12m and 10m with the use of a tuner. Materials needed are:

• Ladder Line. I recommend stranded conductors because this makes the ladder line more flexible than solid copper conductors. Use of the 5B6L as a field portable antenna may stress solid conductors and lead to failures.
• a 4:1 unun. This item can be purchased or you can build your own using twin lead speaker wire (or similar) wound around a type-43 ferrite toroid

Ham Made 4:1 unun

Instructions

• Cut two lengths of ladder line each 10 feet (3 meters) long. These may need to be trimmed during testing.
• Connect the two conductors of each piece of ladder line together at one end only.
• At the other end of each piece of ladder line, cut off the end of one of the conductors.
• Strip the insulation from the other conductor – this will be connected to the 4:1 unun.
• Connect each piece of ladder line to the unun.

Erection of the antenna

Attach a coax feedline to the 4:1 unun. A tuner may be inserted at this end if desired. For practical purposes, unless a very long coax is used, the SWR losses in the coax will not be significant so a tuner at the radio end can be used.

Set up your choice of pole, or other support, attach one end of the antenna to the top of the pole. The other end of the sloping radiating element (the feedpoint) should be supported on a short stick.

The other half of the antenna serves as a raised counterpoise and its far end can be supported by, for example, a trekking pole.

The slope angle can be adjusted by simply moving the counterpoise support sticks. See what works best for you. The whole antenna can be quite stealthy. I erected mine on only a 10 feet high pole. Efficiency may be improved by using a taller support but I prefer stealth when operating in public spaces. Tall antennas arouse suspicion!

The end is nigh!

A generous friend donated a lot of ladder line some time ago and I have used all but a few feet of it. Maybe it’s time to experiment with something different. So my next project – take a deep breath – is something I have been writing about in unflattering terms recently – a short, base loaded whip! What? Have I been enjoying too much Scottish champagne? Well, I thought it would be an interesting challenge to see how efficient I could make a short-ish whip antenna with a base-loading coil. A prototype has been constructed and has made contacts in backyard tests (with my helping fingers tapping on the key ). When the design has been completed you will be able to read about here on Ham Radio Outside the Box. Stay tuned.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#AmateurRadio #Antennas #Counterpoise #CW #Ground #OutdoorOps #Portable #POTA

A 5-Band, Lazy-L, Linear-Loaded, Ladder Line Antenna (aka the “5B6L”)

About a year ago I mentioned an antenna devised by Peter Waters G3OJV that used a 13 feet (4 m) vertical wire to create a multiband antenna. I used Peter’s idea to create “A Simple, Low Profile, Multiband Antenna for POTA“. The antenna was designed to work on 20m, 17m, 15m, 12m and 10m with the aid of a tuner. But, I discovered a small problem on the 17m band. If we do the elementary calculation for the length of a quarter-wave radiator at the bottom end of the band (18.068 MHz) we find that it works out to be 12.95 ft – just a whisker short of the 13 ft recommended by G3OJV. So why is that a problem?

The problem arises because the antenna uses a 4:1 unun at the feedpoint. Since the 13 ft length is already almost resonant on 17 meters, the 4:1 unun makes the job of the tuner much harder. That did indeed prove to be the case when I tested my derivative in the field. So, I made a small change when designing the new 5B6L antenna – I increased the length to 14 feet (4.2672 meters) – well … not quite true, but that is the underlying principal behind the linear-loaded equivalent.

Here are the calculated lengths of a quarter-wave radiator at the mid-point of each of the five bands of interest:

20m: 16.6 feet17m: 12.92 feet15m: 11 feet12m: 9.39 feet10m: 8.11 feet

A 14ft radiator slips nicely in between the 20m and 17m quarter wavelengths and becomes a “random length” on all 5 bands. Nice. But this is a linear-loaded antenna made from ladder line. Linear-loading shortens the required length by around 30%. Fourteen feet, shortened by 30% works out to 9.8 feet (~3 meters). After field adjustments I settled on a length of 9.75 ft (a little less than 3 meters).

Lose the radials!

I wanted this antenna to be what could be loosely described as a random length dipole – two equal lengths of ladder line (each shorted at one end) so that was how it was constructed. Now we have the benefit of versatility. It could be erected as a traditional dipole although with two very short arms it would be tricky to get it up in the air. It could also be erected as a vertical dipole on a support pole about 7 meters (23 feet) tall like my Spiderbeam. But that would make it difficult to orient the coax feedline so that it comes away from the antenna at 90 degrees, as is required to prevent the feedline picking up some of the radiated signal. Perhaps a sloper would work; now that is a very viable solution.

How ‘Bout a Lazy-L?

One of the YouTube channels I follow is “Jim’s Cool Stuff“. In one of his videos Jim suggested using a “Lazy-L” orientation of a vertical simple wire radiator and single raised radial wire. Why? The purpose is to increase the take-off angle. A vertical antenna usually has a very low take-off angle which is great for chasing DX, but what about shorter-range contacts? From my location in Southern Ontario, Canada it is only a short hop down to the north-eastern states in the USA. The US northeast has a very large concentration of amateur radio operators many of which participate in popular activities like POTA. A vertical antenna is likely to send my signal whistling over their heads, or at the very least, be received at a reduced level.

A Lazy-L configuration optimizes radiation to favor short to mid-range contacts by raising the take-off angle to achieve much shorter hops. Does it work? Yes indeed, during test operations I have been able to make contacts, just over the shallow puddle they call Lake Erie, into Pennsylvania, and across Lake Ontario into the state of New York, with quite respectable signal reports for my QRP CW signal.

The 5B6L antenna erected for test transmissions

But what about DX?

Stations on the west coast of the US or western Canada could be considered almost DX – each is thousands of kilometers away. No problem! I said this antenna has versatility. The Lazy-L configuration can be re-oriented to a straightforward regular vertical with a raised counterpoise very easily. In fact the angle at which the radiating element leans can be adjusted to find an optimum at which near-DX and short hop stations all fall within its radiation pattern.

How to Build a 5B6L

The following describes construction of a 5-Band, Linear-Loaded, Ladder Line antenna that can be operated on 20m, 17m, 15m, 12m and 10m with the use of a tuner. Materials needed are:

• Ladder Line. I recommend stranded conductors because this makes the ladder line more flexible than solid copper conductors. Use of the 5B6L as a field portable antenna may stress solid conductors and lead to failures.
• a 4:1 unun. This item can be purchased or you can build your own using twin lead speaker wire (or similar) wound around a type-43 ferrite toroid

Ham Made 4:1 unun

Instructions

• Cut two lengths of ladder line each 10 feet (3 meters) long. These may need to be trimmed during testing.
• Connect the two conductors of each piece of ladder line together at one end only.
• At the other end of each piece of ladder line, cut off the end of one of the conductors.
• Strip the insulation from the other conductor – this will be connected to the 4:1 unun.
• Connect each piece of ladder line to the unun.

Erection of the antenna

Attach a coax feedline to the 4:1 unun. A tuner may be inserted at this end if desired. For practical purposes, unless a very long coax is used, the SWR losses in the coax will not be significant so a tuner at the radio end can be used.

Set up your choice of pole, or other support, attach one end of the antenna to the top of the pole. The other end of the sloping radiating element (the feedpoint) should be supported on a short stick.

The other half of the antenna serves as a raised counterpoise and its far end can be supported by, for example, a trekking pole.

The slope angle can be adjusted by simply moving the counterpoise support sticks. See what works best for you. The whole antenna can be quite stealthy. I erected mine on only a 10 feet high pole. Efficiency may be improved by using a taller support but I prefer stealth when operating in public spaces. Tall antennas arouse suspicion!

The end is nigh!

A generous friend donated a lot of ladder line some time ago and I have used all but a few feet of it. Maybe it’s time to experiment with something different. So my next project – take a deep breath – is something I have been writing about in unflattering terms recently – a short, base loaded whip! What? Have I been enjoying too much Scottish champagne? Well, I thought it would be an interesting challenge to see how efficient I could make a short-ish whip antenna with a base-loading coil. A prototype has been constructed and has made contacts in backyard tests (with my helping fingers tapping on the key ). When the design has been completed you will be able to read about here on Ham Radio Outside the Box. Stay tuned.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#AmateurRadio #Antennas #Counterpoise #CW #Ground #OutdoorOps #Portable #POTA

A short 2-band ladder line antenna for portable ops

Introducing the 2B2L antenna

Wouldn’t it be nice to have a short, fairly efficient, rapidly deployable, low visual impact, vertical antenna that can be operated on both the 20 meter and 40 meter bands? The 2B2L (2 Band Linear Loaded) antenna comes very close to a perfect match for those specifications.

The 2B2L is the brainchild of Tim KQ4TQ who pitched the idea to me in an email recently. Seeing the potential in Tim’s idea, I hastily built a prototype and erected it in my backyard for testing. The 2B2L is based on the “Simple Ladder Line Antenna for Portable Ops” discussed a couple of weeks ago here on Ham Radio Outside the Box. But here is the genius in the 2 band version: by adding a loading coil and a tail section – also made from ladder line – to the top of the original single band (20m) version, we can add the 40m band. The whole antenna towers up to the dizzying height of just 15 feet!

But, just a moment; before the grey-haired, white-coated men with a physics diploma hanging on the wall pick up their quill pens to denounce the 2B2L, a confession is in order. Yes, admittedly, the 2B2L is not perfect; field portable antennas rarely are perfect. Those of us who like to operate out in the Big Blue Sky Shack must necessarily accept some compromises. Those of us who like to operate QRP accept even more compromises. So where’s the gotcha?

The loading coil for the 40m extension is the weak link. It serves two purposes: (1) it acts as an RF choke for the lower 20m band section; it’s high impedance effectively terminates the lower section of the antenna so that the top section does not affect operation on 20 meters; (2) it acts as a loading coil for the 40 meter top section which is considerably shortened as a result. But is it actually all bad? Yes, it has some loss due to the i^2R effect, but consider this: the whole antenna is radiating on 40 meters and the coil is near the top where the current is lower. If I am thinking with half a brain here please correct me in the comments. I did once think I was wrong, but I was mistaken!

Can an antenna that is only 15 feet tall really be efficient on 20m and 40m? The secret to how it can claim enough efficiency to actually make contacts out in the field lies in its use of linear loaded elements. Two sections of ladder line, each shorted at the top, provide the linear loading which shortens the required length by about 30%. Linear loading is considered one of the most efficient ways of shortening an antenna.

2B2L coil and 40m extension

Also, the 2B2L is mounted quite close to the ground which inevitably diverts some RF to warming the earthworms. Mine is fed about 12 inches (~30 cm) above ground. It could also be raised higher and used with tuned, raised radials, but on 40 meters the radials would each be around 33 feet long. I chose to use short ground radials instead.

Where to buy a 2B2L?

Sorry folks, this is another real hobbyist’s project – you gotta build it yourself. You’re going to need some ladder line from whatever source you go to for ham radio supplies. Mine was a generous gift from my friend and CW buddy Mary VE3MVM. You will also need a coil. I had an air core coil lying in the drawer from a previous project. I built it using a a short section of PVC tubing about 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter. You will need an inductance meter, or a NanoVNA, to measure the inductance. As a purely rough guide, my coil has 35 turns of 20 awg stranded insulated wire. Here is the materials list:

• 11.5 feet (3.5 meters) of ladder line for the 20 meter radiating element
• 38 inches (0.97 meters) of ladder line for the 40 meter extension
• 35 microhenry coil

Setting up the 2B2L antenna

The 2B2L can be erected on a pole about 16 feet (or about 5 meters) tall. It is fed at the bottom via coax to a transceiver. The 2B2L requires radials. I tried a set of 8 radials, each 7 feet (2 meters) long. That worked but 4 radials, each 13 feet long provided a better return path on 40 meters.

2B2L lower section showing GTU, Common Mode Current Choke and radials

In keeping with recent practise here on Ham Radio Outside the Box, the radials are tuned with a GTU (Ground Tuning Unit). The GTU has to be separately adjusted for each of the two bands. This ensures that the antenna system is working as efficiently as possible – without a tuner! An antenna analyzer connected via a short coax showed an SWR well below 1.5 could be obtained on both bands.

Does it QSO?

No, it just sits there grinning at the sky, but I have QSO’d using the 2B2L. My best contact so far has been a 2000 kilometer QSO with a station in Colorado on 20 meters by QRP CW. 40 meters is most active in the early morning and in the evening when I am inactive, but I am going to have to make the effort to go 40 meter QSO hunting real soon. Stay tuned.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#Antennas #CW #Ground #OutdoorOps #Portable

A short 2-band ladder line antenna for portable ops

Introducing the 2B2L antenna

Wouldn’t it be nice to have a short, fairly efficient, rapidly deployable, low visual impact, vertical antenna that can be operated on both the 20 meter and 40 meter bands? The 2B2L (2 Band Linear Loaded) antenna comes very close to a perfect match for those specifications.

The 2B2L is the brainchild of Tim KQ4TQ who pitched the idea to me in an email recently. Seeing the potential in Tim’s idea, I hastily built a prototype and erected it in my backyard for testing. The 2B2L is based on the “Simple Ladder Line Antenna for Portable Ops” discussed a couple of weeks ago here on Ham Radio Outside the Box. But here is the genius in the 2 band version: by adding a loading coil and a tail section – also made from ladder line – to the top of the original single band (20m) version, we can add the 40m band. The whole antenna towers up to the dizzying height of just 15 feet!

But, just a moment; before the grey-haired, white-coated men with a physics diploma hanging on the wall pick up their quill pens to denounce the 2B2L, a confession is in order. Yes, admittedly, the 2B2L is not perfect; field portable antennas rarely are perfect. Those of us who like to operate out in the Big Blue Sky Shack must necessarily accept some compromises. Those of us who like to operate QRP accept even more compromises. So where’s the gotcha?

The loading coil for the 40m extension is the weak link. It serves two purposes: (1) it acts as an RF choke for the lower 20m band section; it’s high impedance effectively terminates the lower section of the antenna so that the top section does not affect operation on 20 meters; (2) it acts as a loading coil for the 40 meter top section which is considerably shortened as a result. But is it actually all bad? Yes, it has some loss due to the i^2R effect, but consider this: the whole antenna is radiating on 40 meters and the coil is near the top where the current is lower. If I am thinking with half a brain here please correct me in the comments. I did once think I was wrong, but I was mistaken!

Can an antenna that is only 15 feet tall really be efficient on 20m and 40m? The secret to how it can claim enough efficiency to actually make contacts out in the field lies in its use of linear loaded elements. Two sections of ladder line, each shorted at the top, provide the linear loading which shortens the required length by about 30%. Linear loading is considered one of the most efficient ways of shortening an antenna.

2B2L coil and 40m extension

Also, the 2B2L is mounted quite close to the ground which inevitably diverts some RF to warming the earthworms. Mine is fed about 12 inches (~30 cm) above ground. It could also be raised higher and used with tuned, raised radials, but on 40 meters the radials would each be around 33 feet long. I chose to use short ground radials instead.

Where to buy a 2B2L?

Sorry folks, this is another real hobbyist’s project – you gotta build it yourself. You’re going to need some ladder line from whatever source you go to for ham radio supplies. Mine was a generous gift from my friend and CW buddy Mary VE3MVM. You will also need a coil. I had an air core coil lying in the drawer from a previous project. I built it using a a short section of PVC tubing about 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter. You will need an inductance meter, or a NanoVNA, to measure the inductance. As a purely rough guide, my coil has 35 turns of 20 awg stranded insulated wire. Here is the materials list:

• 11.5 feet (3.5 meters) of ladder line for the 20 meter radiating element
• 38 inches (0.97 meters) of ladder line for the 40 meter extension
• 35 microhenry coil

Setting up the 2B2L antenna

The 2B2L can be erected on a pole about 16 feet (or about 5 meters) tall. It is fed at the bottom via coax to a transceiver. The 2B2L requires radials. I tried a set of 8 radials, each 7 feet (2 meters) long. That worked but 4 radials, each 13 feet long provided a better return path on 40 meters.

2B2L lower section showing GTU, Common Mode Current Choke and radials

In keeping with recent practise here on Ham Radio Outside the Box, the radials are tuned with a GTU (Ground Tuning Unit). The GTU has to be separately adjusted for each of the two bands. This ensures that the antenna system is working as efficiently as possible – without a tuner! An antenna analyzer connected via a short coax showed an SWR well below 1.5 could be obtained on both bands.

Does it QSO?

No, it just sits there grinning at the sky, but I have QSO’d using the 2B2L. My best contact so far has been a 2000 kilometer QSO with a station in Colorado on 20 meters by QRP CW. 40 meters is most active in the early morning and in the evening when I am inactive, but I am going to have to make the effort to go 40 meter QSO hunting real soon. Stay tuned.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#Antennas #CW #Ground #OutdoorOps #Portable

A short 2-band ladder line antenna for portable ops

Introducing the 2B2L antenna

Wouldn’t it be nice to have a short, fairly efficient, rapidly deployable, low visual impact, vertical antenna that can be operated on both the 20 meter and 40 meter bands? The 2B2L (2 Band Linear Loaded) antenna comes very close to a perfect match for those specifications.

The 2B2L is the brainchild of Tim KQ4TQ who pitched the idea to me in an email recently. Seeing the potential in Tim’s idea, I hastily built a prototype and erected it in my backyard for testing. The 2B2L is based on the “Simple Ladder Line Antenna for Portable Ops” discussed a couple of weeks ago here on Ham Radio Outside the Box. But here is the genius in the 2 band version: by adding a loading coil and a tail section – also made from ladder line – to the top of the original single band (20m) version, we can add the 40m band. The whole antenna towers up to the dizzying height of just 15 feet!

But, just a moment; before the grey-haired, white-coated men with a physics diploma hanging on the wall pick up their quill pens to denounce the 2B2L, a confession is in order. Yes, admittedly, the 2B2L is not perfect; field portable antennas rarely are perfect. Those of us who like to operate out in the Big Blue Sky Shack must necessarily accept some compromises. Those of us who like to operate QRP accept even more compromises. So where’s the gotcha?

The loading coil for the 40m extension is the weak link. It serves two purposes: (1) it acts as an RF choke for the lower 20m band section; it’s high impedance effectively terminates the lower section of the antenna so that the top section does not affect operation on 20 meters; (2) it acts as a loading coil for the 40 meter top section which is considerably shortened as a result. But is it actually all bad? Yes, it has some loss due to the i^2R effect, but consider this: the whole antenna is radiating on 40 meters and the coil is near the top where the current is lower. If I am thinking with half a brain here please correct me in the comments. I did once think I was wrong, but I was mistaken!

Can an antenna that is only 15 feet tall really be efficient on 20m and 40m? The secret to how it can claim enough efficiency to actually make contacts out in the field lies in its use of linear loaded elements. Two sections of ladder line, each shorted at the top, provide the linear loading which shortens the required length by about 30%. Linear loading is considered one of the most efficient ways of shortening an antenna.

2B2L coil and 40m extension

Also, the 2B2L is mounted quite close to the ground which inevitably diverts some RF to warming the earthworms. Mine is fed about 12 inches (~30 cm) above ground. It could also be raised higher and used with tuned, raised radials, but on 40 meters the radials would each be around 33 feet long. I chose to use short ground radials instead.

Where to buy a 2B2L?

Sorry folks, this is another real hobbyist’s project – you gotta build it yourself. You’re going to need some ladder line from whatever source you go to for ham radio supplies. Mine was a generous gift from my friend and CW buddy Mary VE3MVM. You will also need a coil. I had an air core coil lying in the drawer from a previous project. I built it using a a short section of PVC tubing about 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter. You will need an inductance meter, or a NanoVNA, to measure the inductance. As a purely rough guide, my coil has 35 turns of 20 awg stranded insulated wire. Here is the materials list:

• 11.5 feet (3.5 meters) of ladder line for the 20 meter radiating element
• 38 inches (0.97 meters) of ladder line for the 40 meter extension
• 35 microhenry coil

Setting up the 2B2L antenna

The 2B2L can be erected on a pole about 16 feet (or about 5 meters) tall. It is fed at the bottom via coax to a transceiver. The 2B2L requires radials. I tried a set of 8 radials, each 7 feet (2 meters) long. That worked but 4 radials, each 13 feet long provided a better return path on 40 meters.

2B2L lower section showing GTU, Common Mode Current Choke and radials

In keeping with recent practise here on Ham Radio Outside the Box, the radials are tuned with a GTU (Ground Tuning Unit). The GTU has to be separately adjusted for each of the two bands. This ensures that the antenna system is working as efficiently as possible – without a tuner! An antenna analyzer connected via a short coax showed an SWR well below 1.5 could be obtained on both bands.

Does it QSO?

No, it just sits there grinning at the sky, but I have QSO’d using the 2B2L. My best contact so far has been a 2000 kilometer QSO with a station in Colorado on 20 meters by QRP CW. 40 meters is most active in the early morning and in the evening when I am inactive, but I am going to have to make the effort to go 40 meter QSO hunting real soon. Stay tuned.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#Antennas #CW #Ground #OutdoorOps #Portable

A short 2-band ladder line antenna for portable ops

Introducing the 2B2L antenna

Wouldn’t it be nice to have a short, fairly efficient, rapidly deployable, low visual impact, vertical antenna that can be operated on both the 20 meter and 40 meter bands? The 2B2L (2 Band Linear Loaded) antenna comes very close to a perfect match for those specifications.

The 2B2L is the brainchild of Tim KQ4TQ who pitched the idea to me in an email recently. Seeing the potential in Tim’s idea, I hastily built a prototype and erected it in my backyard for testing. The 2B2L is based on the “Simple Ladder Line Antenna for Portable Ops” discussed a couple of weeks ago here on Ham Radio Outside the Box. But here is the genius in the 2 band version: by adding a loading coil and a tail section – also made from ladder line – to the top of the original single band (20m) version, we can add the 40m band. The whole antenna towers up to the dizzying height of just 15 feet!

But, just a moment; before the grey-haired, white-coated men with a physics diploma hanging on the wall pick up their quill pens to denounce the 2B2L, a confession is in order. Yes, admittedly, the 2B2L is not perfect; field portable antennas rarely are perfect. Those of us who like to operate out in the Big Blue Sky Shack must necessarily accept some compromises. Those of us who like to operate QRP accept even more compromises. So where’s the gotcha?

The loading coil for the 40m extension is the weak link. It serves two purposes: (1) it acts as an RF choke for the lower 20m band section; it’s high impedance effectively terminates the lower section of the antenna so that the top section does not affect operation on 20 meters; (2) it acts as a loading coil for the 40 meter top section which is considerably shortened as a result. But is it actually all bad? Yes, it has some loss due to the i^2R effect, but consider this: the whole antenna is radiating on 40 meters and the coil is near the top where the current is lower. If I am thinking with half a brain here please correct me in the comments. I did once think I was wrong, but I was mistaken!

Can an antenna that is only 15 feet tall really be efficient on 20m and 40m? The secret to how it can claim enough efficiency to actually make contacts out in the field lies in its use of linear loaded elements. Two sections of ladder line, each shorted at the top, provide the linear loading which shortens the required length by about 30%. Linear loading is considered one of the most efficient ways of shortening an antenna.

2B2L coil and 40m extension

Also, the 2B2L is mounted quite close to the ground which inevitably diverts some RF to warming the earthworms. Mine is fed about 12 inches (~30 cm) above ground. It could also be raised higher and used with tuned, raised radials, but on 40 meters the radials would each be around 33 feet long. I chose to use short ground radials instead.

Where to buy a 2B2L?

Sorry folks, this is another real hobbyist’s project – you gotta build it yourself. You’re going to need some ladder line from whatever source you go to for ham radio supplies. Mine was a generous gift from my friend and CW buddy Mary VE3MVM. You will also need a coil. I had an air core coil lying in the drawer from a previous project. I built it using a a short section of PVC tubing about 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter. You will need an inductance meter, or a NanoVNA, to measure the inductance. As a purely rough guide, my coil has 35 turns of 20 awg stranded insulated wire. Here is the materials list:

• 11.5 feet (3.5 meters) of ladder line for the 20 meter radiating element
• 38 inches (0.97 meters) of ladder line for the 40 meter extension
• 35 microhenry coil

Setting up the 2B2L antenna

The 2B2L can be erected on a pole about 16 feet (or about 5 meters) tall. It is fed at the bottom via coax to a transceiver. The 2B2L requires radials. I tried a set of 8 radials, each 7 feet (2 meters) long. That worked but 4 radials, each 13 feet long provided a better return path on 40 meters.

2B2L lower section showing GTU, Common Mode Current Choke and radials

In keeping with recent practise here on Ham Radio Outside the Box, the radials are tuned with a GTU (Ground Tuning Unit). The GTU has to be separately adjusted for each of the two bands. This ensures that the antenna system is working as efficiently as possible – without a tuner! An antenna analyzer connected via a short coax showed an SWR well below 1.5 could be obtained on both bands.

Does it QSO?

No, it just sits there grinning at the sky, but I have QSO’d using the 2B2L. My best contact so far has been a 2000 kilometer QSO with a station in Colorado on 20 meters by QRP CW. 40 meters is most active in the early morning and in the evening when I am inactive, but I am going to have to make the effort to go 40 meter QSO hunting real soon. Stay tuned.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#Antennas #CW #Ground #OutdoorOps #Portable

A short 2-band ladder line antenna for portable ops

Introducing the 2B2L antenna

Wouldn’t it be nice to have a short, fairly efficient, rapidly deployable, low visual impact, vertical antenna that can be operated on both the 20 meter and 40 meter bands? The 2B2L (2 Band Linear Loaded) antenna comes very close to a perfect match for those specifications.

The 2B2L is the brainchild of Tim KQ4TQ who pitched the idea to me in an email recently. Seeing the potential in Tim’s idea, I hastily built a prototype and erected it in my backyard for testing. The 2B2L is based on the “Simple Ladder Line Antenna for Portable Ops” discussed a couple of weeks ago here on Ham Radio Outside the Box. But here is the genius in the 2 band version: by adding a loading coil and a tail section – also made from ladder line – to the top of the original single band (20m) version, we can add the 40m band. The whole antenna towers up to the dizzying height of just 15 feet!

But, just a moment; before the grey-haired, white-coated men with a physics diploma hanging on the wall pick up their quill pens to denounce the 2B2L, a confession is in order. Yes, admittedly, the 2B2L is not perfect; field portable antennas rarely are perfect. Those of us who like to operate out in the Big Blue Sky Shack must necessarily accept some compromises. Those of us who like to operate QRP accept even more compromises. So where’s the gotcha?

The loading coil for the 40m extension is the weak link. It serves two purposes: (1) it acts as an RF choke for the lower 20m band section; it’s high impedance effectively terminates the lower section of the antenna so that the top section does not affect operation on 20 meters; (2) it acts as a loading coil for the 40 meter top section which is considerably shortened as a result. But is it actually all bad? Yes, it has some loss due to the i^2R effect, but consider this: the whole antenna is radiating on 40 meters and the coil is near the top where the current is lower. If I am thinking with half a brain here please correct me in the comments. I did once think I was wrong, but I was mistaken!

Can an antenna that is only 15 feet tall really be efficient on 20m and 40m? The secret to how it can claim enough efficiency to actually make contacts out in the field lies in its use of linear loaded elements. Two sections of ladder line, each shorted at the top, provide the linear loading which shortens the required length by about 30%. Linear loading is considered one of the most efficient ways of shortening an antenna.

2B2L coil and 40m extension

Also, the 2B2L is mounted quite close to the ground which inevitably diverts some RF to warming the earthworms. Mine is fed about 12 inches (~30 cm) above ground. It could also be raised higher and used with tuned, raised radials, but on 40 meters the radials would each be around 33 feet long. I chose to use short ground radials instead.

Where to buy a 2B2L?

Sorry folks, this is another real hobbyist’s project – you gotta build it yourself. You’re going to need some ladder line from whatever source you go to for ham radio supplies. Mine was a generous gift from my friend and CW buddy Mary VE3MVM. You will also need a coil. I had an air core coil lying in the drawer from a previous project. I built it using a a short section of PVC tubing about 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter. You will need an inductance meter, or a NanoVNA, to measure the inductance. As a purely rough guide, my coil has 35 turns of 20 awg stranded insulated wire. Here is the materials list:

• 11.5 feet (3.5 meters) of ladder line for the 20 meter radiating element
• 38 inches (0.97 meters) of ladder line for the 40 meter extension
• 35 microhenry coil

Setting up the 2B2L antenna

The 2B2L can be erected on a pole about 16 feet (or about 5 meters) tall. It is fed at the bottom via coax to a transceiver. The 2B2L requires radials. I tried a set of 8 radials, each 7 feet (2 meters) long. That worked but 4 radials, each 13 feet long provided a better return path on 40 meters.

2B2L lower section showing GTU, Common Mode Current Choke and radials

In keeping with recent practise here on Ham Radio Outside the Box, the radials are tuned with a GTU (Ground Tuning Unit). The GTU has to be separately adjusted for each of the two bands. This ensures that the antenna system is working as efficiently as possible – without a tuner! An antenna analyzer connected via a short coax showed an SWR well below 1.5 could be obtained on both bands.

Does it QSO?

No, it just sits there grinning at the sky, but I have QSO’d using the 2B2L. My best contact so far has been a 2000 kilometer QSO with a station in Colorado on 20 meters by QRP CW. 40 meters is most active in the early morning and in the evening when I am inactive, but I am going to have to make the effort to go 40 meter QSO hunting real soon. Stay tuned.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#Antennas #CW #Ground #OutdoorOps #Portable

A Simple Ladder Line Antenna for Portable Ops

For the last several weeks I have been experimenting with ideas for low impact field antennas that optimize stealth, rapid deployment and small footprint while maintaining efficiency. It’s a trade-off between size, portability and efficiency. The antenna that is very small, highly portable and very efficient hasn’t been invented yet – and never will be invented because it would defy the laws of physics.

Ladder Line antenna deployed in the field with QRP-Labs QMX transceiver pounding out an awesome 4.5 watts

Some hams may hold the belief that a short, base-loaded whip defies physics because (1) it can be tuned to 1:1 SWR, and (2) it can be used to make contacts. On the right day, under favorable propagation conditions even a wet noodle makes a “great antenna”. I have personally made contacts with a dummy load (across a room during a technical presentation). A 1:1 SWR ensures a transceiver won’t release the “magic smoke”; it does not make a poor antenna work any better.

Oh yes, I’m the great pretender …

The Platters (love those songs) could have been singing about ham radio tuners. Internal tuners, or any tuner located at the radio end of a feedline is a great pretender. It pretends the antenna is doing well when really its only job is to convert the impedance of the antenna, and feedline, into something that won’t vaporize those little 3-legged fuses that we like to call PA transistors in the transceiver.

For this reason I prefer to avoid using a “tuner” at the radio end of the feedline. A tuner has a role to play when using a multiband antenna (such as a random wire), but a monoband antenna can be adjusted to resonance (or close to resonance) thereby avoiding any need for an impedance transformation at the radio end of a short feedline. For example, a simple resonant whip mounted on a pole a couple of meters above ground, with two or more resonant radial wires does not require a tuner. But there’s a gotcha.

High wire act – danger, danger!

I was playing radio in a provincial park once when my wobbly whip attracted the attention of a patrolling park warden. Her job included preventing mad boffins with dubious aerial erections from endangering other park users. I was able to persuade her that my activities were unlikely to trigger the arrival of emergency services and all was well. That experience convinced me of the value of operating stealthily by staying under the radar of anybody who may look on my activities with suspicion. Lesson learned – low antennas equal low attention.

The Dancing Queen

I have told the tale of the dancing lady several times on Ham Radio Outside the Box. My unusual activity attracted her attraction and she approached to inquire what I was doing. When I advised her to be careful of the long radial wires on the ground she broke into an impromptu and erratic dance routine. Lesson learned – long radials are where angels fear to tread.

When the twilight is gone, and no songbirds are singing …

My wife and I have been putting out bird feeders in our back yard for quite some time. The feeders have attracted many different kinds of birds, prompting us to learn more about their behavior and habitat. One of the important things we learned is that trees are birds’ safe place. It is where they shelter and nest. Lesson learned – avoid invading their space by firing projectiles and dragging long wires through it.

Park wardens licking their pencils ready to write out an infraction ticket, dancing queens dodging wiggly wires, and fishing weights landing in bird nests … by all the ancient Norse gods, what’s a poor ham to do? Those were the design parameters I had to work with. Could it be done? Could I design antenna that will fit into those restrictions? The Devil was dangling a short base-loaded whip in front of my eyes but I banished him. No, that is not the solution!

So what is the solution?

There are inevitably many solutions to this puzzling conundrum and each may work in some fashion. One contender is something I have come up with and called a “Ladder Line Antenna”. Ladder Line (sometimes referred to as “Window Line”) is usually used as a feedline but it doesn’t have to be so. Ladder Line is simply two conductors separated by plastic with a series of rectangular holes. It resembles a ladder, or looked at differently, it could be seen as a series of windows.

Why use Ladder Line as the antenna’s radiator? Because, to reduce the overall height of the antenna by around 30% the antenna is linear-loaded. Linear loading is the technique of folding back the radiating element and can be achieved by shorting the two ladder line conductors at the top. The far end of the folded side of the radiator is left unconnected. The radiator is connected to the coax center conductor.

The overall length of the Ladder Line radiating element for my 20m band antenna is approximately eleven and a half feet (three and a half meters). It was trimmed while measuring its electrical length with an antenna analyzer.

Banishing the Dancing Queen

Understanding that long radials for this antenna are strictly verboten creates a bit of a problem. Usually, a set of ground mounted radial wires are employed with a vertical antenna and a tuner is used at the radio end of the feedline to match the impedance.

No matter how many radials are laid down they will not be resonant. And, the use of a tuner has been ruled to be equally verboten. But there is a solution and that is to use a GTU (Ground Tuning Unit) to increase the current in the radial system, making it appear resonant. To keep the Dancing Queen at bay I shortened the radial wire length to 7 feet (a little over 2 meters) and used eight radials. The radiating element has already been adjusted for resonance so now is the overall antenna resonant? Well not quite.

You can’t cheat physics. Eight short radials, even when “tuned” with a GTU are not resonant. My experiments with a square meter of Faraday cloth proved that principle. There remains a small reactive component to the antenna impedance as can be seen in this image of the antenna analyzer reading when connected by a very short length of coax.

The reactive component, in this case 5.43 ohms of capacitive reactance, could have been reduced further by careful adjustment of the GTU. Unfortunately, the GTU is difficult to adjust precisely and hand capacitance also affects the adjustment. Another challenge for brainy boffins to overcome. The impossible done at once, miracles take a little longer!

Is a linear loaded antenna efficient?

L.B. Cebik W4RNL(SK) published a series of articles on shortening HF dipoles. He established that dipoles remain quite efficient down to 10% of their full length. However, below 70% the complex impedance becomes increasingly difficult to match. My simple ladder line antenna is shortened to approximately 70% of its original length.

The real world test

Following several sessions out in my backyard, hunting POTA stations, I figured the antenna was ready for the real test. Could it work well enough for a QRP CW POTA activation?

I had two activations planned, each in separate locations. During the first activation, propagation conditions were a little difficult with a lot of signal fading (QSB). Stations would disappear into the noise then, seconds later, come back bending the needle on the signal strength meter. It took an hour to log 13 stations, but with the furthest being 1876 km away it showed the short, low profile antenna had good potential.

The second activation a few days later showed even better results.

Propagation conditions were better this time around and contacts were made in Arizona, nearly 3000 km away from my QTH on the Canadian shoreline of Lake Huron, Colorado (2200 km) and several others close to 2000 km. It was also interesting to note that some of the contacts made were less than 1000km away. This means the antenna is capable of radiating signals at a broad range of take-off angles.

Overall I am very pleased with this simple, low profile antenna. It can be supported on a very lightweight 13 ft high pole that mounts on a small stake in the ground in summer, or a compact tripod when the ground is frozen in winter. The eight 7 feet long radials take the longest to deploy and occupy a circular footprint of 14 feet. An alternative I am working on involves a single raised linear loaded radial to replace the ground radials. This will reduce the footprint to two dimensions and make the antenna suitable for deployment on a narrow trail. I am also working on a multi-band version of this antenna. More details to follow in a future post; stay tuned.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#Antennas #OutdoorOps #POTA #QMX

A Simple Ladder Line Antenna for Portable Ops

For the last several weeks I have been experimenting with ideas for low impact field antennas that optimize stealth, rapid deployment and small footprint while maintaining efficiency. It’s a trade-off between size, portability and efficiency. The antenna that is very small, highly portable and very efficient hasn’t been invented yet – and never will be invented because it would defy the laws of physics.

Ladder Line antenna deployed in the field with QRP-Labs QMX transceiver pounding out an awesome 4.5 watts

Some hams may hold the belief that a short, base-loaded whip defies physics because (1) it can be tuned to 1:1 SWR, and (2) it can be used to make contacts. On the right day, under favorable propagation conditions even a wet noodle makes a “great antenna”. I have personally made contacts with a dummy load (across a room during a technical presentation). A 1:1 SWR ensures a transceiver won’t release the “magic smoke”; it does not make a poor antenna work any better.

Oh yes, I’m the great pretender …

The Platters (love those songs) could have been singing about ham radio tuners. Internal tuners, or any tuner located at the radio end of a feedline is a great pretender. It pretends the antenna is doing well when really its only job is to convert the impedance of the antenna, and feedline, into something that won’t vaporize those little 3-legged fuses that we like to call PA transistors in the transceiver.

For this reason I prefer to avoid using a “tuner” at the radio end of the feedline. A tuner has a role to play when using a multiband antenna (such as a random wire), but a monoband antenna can be adjusted to resonance (or close to resonance) thereby avoiding any need for an impedance transformation at the radio end of a short feedline. For example, a simple resonant whip mounted on a pole a couple of meters above ground, with two or more resonant radial wires does not require a tuner. But there’s a gotcha.

High wire act – danger, danger!

I was playing radio in a provincial park once when my wobbly whip attracted the attention of a patrolling park warden. Her job included preventing mad boffins with dubious aerial erections from endangering other park users. I was able to persuade her that my activities were unlikely to trigger the arrival of emergency services and all was well. That experience convinced me of the value of operating stealthily by staying under the radar of anybody who may look on my activities with suspicion. Lesson learned – low antennas equal low attention.

The Dancing Queen

I have told the tale of the dancing lady several times on Ham Radio Outside the Box. My unusual activity attracted her attraction and she approached to inquire what I was doing. When I advised her to be careful of the long radial wires on the ground she broke into an impromptu and erratic dance routine. Lesson learned – long radials are where angels fear to tread.

When the twilight is gone, and no songbirds are singing …

My wife and I have been putting out bird feeders in our back yard for quite some time. The feeders have attracted many different kinds of birds, prompting us to learn more about their behavior and habitat. One of the important things we learned is that trees are birds’ safe place. It is where they shelter and nest. Lesson learned – avoid invading their space by firing projectiles and dragging long wires through it.

Park wardens licking their pencils ready to write out an infraction ticket, dancing queens dodging wiggly wires, and fishing weights landing in bird nests … by all the ancient Norse gods, what’s a poor ham to do? Those were the design parameters I had to work with. Could it be done? Could I design antenna that will fit into those restrictions? The Devil was dangling a short base-loaded whip in front of my eyes but I banished him. No, that is not the solution!

So what is the solution?

There are inevitably many solutions to this puzzling conundrum and each may work in some fashion. One contender is something I have come up with and called a “Ladder Line Antenna”. Ladder Line (sometimes referred to as “Window Line”) is usually used as a feedline but it doesn’t have to be so. Ladder Line is simply two conductors separated by plastic with a series of rectangular holes. It resembles a ladder, or looked at differently, it could be seen as a series of windows.

Why use Ladder Line as the antenna’s radiator? Because, to reduce the overall height of the antenna by around 30% the antenna is linear-loaded. Linear loading is the technique of folding back the radiating element and can be achieved by shorting the two ladder line conductors at the top. The far end of the folded side of the radiator is left unconnected. The radiator is connected to the coax center conductor.

The overall length of the Ladder Line radiating element for my 20m band antenna is approximately eleven and a half feet (three and a half meters). It was trimmed while measuring its electrical length with an antenna analyzer.

Banishing the Dancing Queen

Understanding that long radials for this antenna are strictly verboten creates a bit of a problem. Usually, a set of ground mounted radial wires are employed with a vertical antenna and a tuner is used at the radio end of the feedline to match the impedance.

No matter how many radials are laid down they will not be resonant. And, the use of a tuner has been ruled to be equally verboten. But there is a solution and that is to use a GTU (Ground Tuning Unit) to increase the current in the radial system, making it appear resonant. To keep the Dancing Queen at bay I shortened the radial wire length to 7 feet (a little over 2 meters) and used eight radials. The radiating element has already been adjusted for resonance so now is the overall antenna resonant? Well not quite.

You can’t cheat physics. Eight short radials, even when “tuned” with a GTU are not resonant. My experiments with a square meter of Faraday cloth proved that principle. There remains a small reactive component to the antenna impedance as can be seen in this image of the antenna analyzer reading when connected by a very short length of coax.

The reactive component, in this case 5.43 ohms of capacitive reactance, could have been reduced further by careful adjustment of the GTU. Unfortunately, the GTU is difficult to adjust precisely and hand capacitance also affects the adjustment. Another challenge for brainy boffins to overcome. The impossible done at once, miracles take a little longer!

Is a linear loaded antenna efficient?

L.B. Cebik W4RNL(SK) published a series of articles on shortening HF dipoles. He established that dipoles remain quite efficient down to 10% of their full length. However, below 70% the complex impedance becomes increasingly difficult to match. My simple ladder line antenna is shortened to approximately 70% of its original length.

The real world test

Following several sessions out in my backyard, hunting POTA stations, I figured the antenna was ready for the real test. Could it work well enough for a QRP CW POTA activation?

I had two activations planned, each in separate locations. During the first activation, propagation conditions were a little difficult with a lot of signal fading (QSB). Stations would disappear into the noise then, seconds later, come back bending the needle on the signal strength meter. It took an hour to log 13 stations, but with the furthest being 1876 km away it showed the short, low profile antenna had good potential.

The second activation a few days later showed even better results.

Propagation conditions were better this time around and contacts were made in Arizona, nearly 3000 km away from my QTH on the Canadian shoreline of Lake Huron, Colorado (2200 km) and several others close to 2000 km. It was also interesting to note that some of the contacts made were less than 1000km away. This means the antenna is capable of radiating signals at a broad range of take-off angles.

Overall I am very pleased with this simple, low profile antenna. It can be supported on a very lightweight 13 ft high pole that mounts on a small stake in the ground in summer, or a compact tripod when the ground is frozen in winter. The eight 7 feet long radials take the longest to deploy and occupy a circular footprint of 14 feet. An alternative I am working on involves a single raised linear loaded radial to replace the ground radials. This will reduce the footprint to two dimensions and make the antenna suitable for deployment on a narrow trail. I am also working on a multi-band version of this antenna. More details to follow in a future post; stay tuned.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#Antennas #OutdoorOps #POTA #QMX

A Simple Ladder Line Antenna for Portable Ops

For the last several weeks I have been experimenting with ideas for low impact field antennas that optimize stealth, rapid deployment and small footprint while maintaining efficiency. It’s a trade-off between size, portability and efficiency. The antenna that is very small, highly portable and very efficient hasn’t been invented yet – and never will be invented because it would defy the laws of physics.

Ladder Line antenna deployed in the field with QRP-Labs QMX transceiver pounding out an awesome 4.5 watts

Some hams may hold the belief that a short, base-loaded whip defies physics because (1) it can be tuned to 1:1 SWR, and (2) it can be used to make contacts. On the right day, under favorable propagation conditions even a wet noodle makes a “great antenna”. I have personally made contacts with a dummy load (across a room during a technical presentation). A 1:1 SWR ensures a transceiver won’t release the “magic smoke”; it does not make a poor antenna work any better.

Oh yes, I’m the great pretender …

The Platters (love those songs) could have been singing about ham radio tuners. Internal tuners, or any tuner located at the radio end of a feedline is a great pretender. It pretends the antenna is doing well when really its only job is to convert the impedance of the antenna, and feedline, into something that won’t vaporize those little 3-legged fuses that we like to call PA transistors in the transceiver.

For this reason I prefer to avoid using a “tuner” at the radio end of the feedline. A tuner has a role to play when using a multiband antenna (such as a random wire), but a monoband antenna can be adjusted to resonance (or close to resonance) thereby avoiding any need for an impedance transformation at the radio end of a short feedline. For example, a simple resonant whip mounted on a pole a couple of meters above ground, with two or more resonant radial wires does not require a tuner. But there’s a gotcha.

High wire act – danger, danger!

I was playing radio in a provincial park once when my wobbly whip attracted the attention of a patrolling park warden. Her job included preventing mad boffins with dubious aerial erections from endangering other park users. I was able to persuade her that my activities were unlikely to trigger the arrival of emergency services and all was well. That experience convinced me of the value of operating stealthily by staying under the radar of anybody who may look on my activities with suspicion. Lesson learned – low antennas equal low attention.

The Dancing Queen

I have told the tale of the dancing lady several times on Ham Radio Outside the Box. My unusual activity attracted her attraction and she approached to inquire what I was doing. When I advised her to be careful of the long radial wires on the ground she broke into an impromptu and erratic dance routine. Lesson learned – long radials are where angels fear to tread.

When the twilight is gone, and no songbirds are singing …

My wife and I have been putting out bird feeders in our back yard for quite some time. The feeders have attracted many different kinds of birds, prompting us to learn more about their behavior and habitat. One of the important things we learned is that trees are birds’ safe place. It is where they shelter and nest. Lesson learned – avoid invading their space by firing projectiles and dragging long wires through it.

Park wardens licking their pencils ready to write out an infraction ticket, dancing queens dodging wiggly wires, and fishing weights landing in bird nests … by all the ancient Norse gods, what’s a poor ham to do? Those were the design parameters I had to work with. Could it be done? Could I design antenna that will fit into those restrictions? The Devil was dangling a short base-loaded whip in front of my eyes but I banished him. No, that is not the solution!

So what is the solution?

There are inevitably many solutions to this puzzling conundrum and each may work in some fashion. One contender is something I have come up with and called a “Ladder Line Antenna”. Ladder Line (sometimes referred to as “Window Line”) is usually used as a feedline but it doesn’t have to be so. Ladder Line is simply two conductors separated by plastic with a series of rectangular holes. It resembles a ladder, or looked at differently, it could be seen as a series of windows.

Why use Ladder Line as the antenna’s radiator? Because, to reduce the overall height of the antenna by around 30% the antenna is linear-loaded. Linear loading is the technique of folding back the radiating element and can be achieved by shorting the two ladder line conductors at the top. The far end of the folded side of the radiator is left unconnected. The radiator is connected to the coax center conductor.

The overall length of the Ladder Line radiating element for my 20m band antenna is approximately eleven and a half feet (three and a half meters). It was trimmed while measuring its electrical length with an antenna analyzer.

Banishing the Dancing Queen

Understanding that long radials for this antenna are strictly verboten creates a bit of a problem. Usually, a set of ground mounted radial wires are employed with a vertical antenna and a tuner is used at the radio end of the feedline to match the impedance.

No matter how many radials are laid down they will not be resonant. And, the use of a tuner has been ruled to be equally verboten. But there is a solution and that is to use a GTU (Ground Tuning Unit) to increase the current in the radial system, making it appear resonant. To keep the Dancing Queen at bay I shortened the radial wire length to 7 feet (a little over 2 meters) and used eight radials. The radiating element has already been adjusted for resonance so now is the overall antenna resonant? Well not quite.

You can’t cheat physics. Eight short radials, even when “tuned” with a GTU are not resonant. My experiments with a square meter of Faraday cloth proved that principle. There remains a small reactive component to the antenna impedance as can be seen in this image of the antenna analyzer reading when connected by a very short length of coax.

The reactive component, in this case 5.43 ohms of capacitive reactance, could have been reduced further by careful adjustment of the GTU. Unfortunately, the GTU is difficult to adjust precisely and hand capacitance also affects the adjustment. Another challenge for brainy boffins to overcome. The impossible done at once, miracles take a little longer!

Is a linear loaded antenna efficient?

L.B. Cebik W4RNL(SK) published a series of articles on shortening HF dipoles. He established that dipoles remain quite efficient down to 10% of their full length. However, below 70% the complex impedance becomes increasingly difficult to match. My simple ladder line antenna is shortened to approximately 70% of its original length.

The real world test

Following several sessions out in my backyard, hunting POTA stations, I figured the antenna was ready for the real test. Could it work well enough for a QRP CW POTA activation?

I had two activations planned, each in separate locations. During the first activation, propagation conditions were a little difficult with a lot of signal fading (QSB). Stations would disappear into the noise then, seconds later, come back bending the needle on the signal strength meter. It took an hour to log 13 stations, but with the furthest being 1876 km away it showed the short, low profile antenna had good potential.

The second activation a few days later showed even better results.

Propagation conditions were better this time around and contacts were made in Arizona, nearly 3000 km away from my QTH on the Canadian shoreline of Lake Huron, Colorado (2200 km) and several others close to 2000 km. It was also interesting to note that some of the contacts made were less than 1000km away. This means the antenna is capable of radiating signals at a broad range of take-off angles.

Overall I am very pleased with this simple, low profile antenna. It can be supported on a very lightweight 13 ft high pole that mounts on a small stake in the ground in summer, or a compact tripod when the ground is frozen in winter. The eight 7 feet long radials take the longest to deploy and occupy a circular footprint of 14 feet. An alternative I am working on involves a single raised linear loaded radial to replace the ground radials. This will reduce the footprint to two dimensions and make the antenna suitable for deployment on a narrow trail. I am also working on a multi-band version of this antenna. More details to follow in a future post; stay tuned.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#Antennas #OutdoorOps #POTA #QMX

A Simple Ladder Line Antenna for Portable Ops

For the last several weeks I have been experimenting with ideas for low impact field antennas that optimize stealth, rapid deployment and small footprint while maintaining efficiency. It’s a trade-off between size, portability and efficiency. The antenna that is very small, highly portable and very efficient hasn’t been invented yet – and never will be invented because it would defy the laws of physics.

Ladder Line antenna deployed in the field with QRP-Labs QMX transceiver pounding out an awesome 4.5 watts

Some hams may hold the belief that a short, base-loaded whip defies physics because (1) it can be tuned to 1:1 SWR, and (2) it can be used to make contacts. On the right day, under favorable propagation conditions even a wet noodle makes a “great antenna”. I have personally made contacts with a dummy load (across a room during a technical presentation). A 1:1 SWR ensures a transceiver won’t release the “magic smoke”; it does not make a poor antenna work any better.

Oh yes, I’m the great pretender …

The Platters (love those songs) could have been singing about ham radio tuners. Internal tuners, or any tuner located at the radio end of a feedline is a great pretender. It pretends the antenna is doing well when really its only job is to convert the impedance of the antenna, and feedline, into something that won’t vaporize those little 3-legged fuses that we like to call PA transistors in the transceiver.

For this reason I prefer to avoid using a “tuner” at the radio end of the feedline. A tuner has a role to play when using a multiband antenna (such as a random wire), but a monoband antenna can be adjusted to resonance (or close to resonance) thereby avoiding any need for an impedance transformation at the radio end of a short feedline. For example, a simple resonant whip mounted on a pole a couple of meters above ground, with two or more resonant radial wires does not require a tuner. But there’s a gotcha.

High wire act – danger, danger!

I was playing radio in a provincial park once when my wobbly whip attracted the attention of a patrolling park warden. Her job included preventing mad boffins with dubious aerial erections from endangering other park users. I was able to persuade her that my activities were unlikely to trigger the arrival of emergency services and all was well. That experience convinced me of the value of operating stealthily by staying under the radar of anybody who may look on my activities with suspicion. Lesson learned – low antennas equal low attention.

The Dancing Queen

I have told the tale of the dancing lady several times on Ham Radio Outside the Box. My unusual activity attracted her attraction and she approached to inquire what I was doing. When I advised her to be careful of the long radial wires on the ground she broke into an impromptu and erratic dance routine. Lesson learned – long radials are where angels fear to tread.

When the twilight is gone, and no songbirds are singing …

My wife and I have been putting out bird feeders in our back yard for quite some time. The feeders have attracted many different kinds of birds, prompting us to learn more about their behavior and habitat. One of the important things we learned is that trees are birds’ safe place. It is where they shelter and nest. Lesson learned – avoid invading their space by firing projectiles and dragging long wires through it.

Park wardens licking their pencils ready to write out an infraction ticket, dancing queens dodging wiggly wires, and fishing weights landing in bird nests … by all the ancient Norse gods, what’s a poor ham to do? Those were the design parameters I had to work with. Could it be done? Could I design antenna that will fit into those restrictions? The Devil was dangling a short base-loaded whip in front of my eyes but I banished him. No, that is not the solution!

So what is the solution?

There are inevitably many solutions to this puzzling conundrum and each may work in some fashion. One contender is something I have come up with and called a “Ladder Line Antenna”. Ladder Line (sometimes referred to as “Window Line”) is usually used as a feedline but it doesn’t have to be so. Ladder Line is simply two conductors separated by plastic with a series of rectangular holes. It resembles a ladder, or looked at differently, it could be seen as a series of windows.

Why use Ladder Line as the antenna’s radiator? Because, to reduce the overall height of the antenna by around 30% the antenna is linear-loaded. Linear loading is the technique of folding back the radiating element and can be achieved by shorting the two ladder line conductors at the top. The far end of the folded side of the radiator is left unconnected. The radiator is connected to the coax center conductor.

The overall length of the Ladder Line radiating element for my 20m band antenna is approximately eleven and a half feet (three and a half meters). It was trimmed while measuring its electrical length with an antenna analyzer.

Banishing the Dancing Queen

Understanding that long radials for this antenna are strictly verboten creates a bit of a problem. Usually, a set of ground mounted radial wires are employed with a vertical antenna and a tuner is used at the radio end of the feedline to match the impedance.

No matter how many radials are laid down they will not be resonant. And, the use of a tuner has been ruled to be equally verboten. But there is a solution and that is to use a GTU (Ground Tuning Unit) to increase the current in the radial system, making it appear resonant. To keep the Dancing Queen at bay I shortened the radial wire length to 7 feet (a little over 2 meters) and used eight radials. The radiating element has already been adjusted for resonance so now is the overall antenna resonant? Well not quite.

You can’t cheat physics. Eight short radials, even when “tuned” with a GTU are not resonant. My experiments with a square meter of Faraday cloth proved that principle. There remains a small reactive component to the antenna impedance as can be seen in this image of the antenna analyzer reading when connected by a very short length of coax.

The reactive component, in this case 5.43 ohms of capacitive reactance, could have been reduced further by careful adjustment of the GTU. Unfortunately, the GTU is difficult to adjust precisely and hand capacitance also affects the adjustment. Another challenge for brainy boffins to overcome. The impossible done at once, miracles take a little longer!

Is a linear loaded antenna efficient?

L.B. Cebik W4RNL(SK) published a series of articles on shortening HF dipoles. He established that dipoles remain quite efficient down to 10% of their full length. However, below 70% the complex impedance becomes increasingly difficult to match. My simple ladder line antenna is shortened to approximately 70% of its original length.

The real world test

Following several sessions out in my backyard, hunting POTA stations, I figured the antenna was ready for the real test. Could it work well enough for a QRP CW POTA activation?

I had two activations planned, each in separate locations. During the first activation, propagation conditions were a little difficult with a lot of signal fading (QSB). Stations would disappear into the noise then, seconds later, come back bending the needle on the signal strength meter. It took an hour to log 13 stations, but with the furthest being 1876 km away it showed the short, low profile antenna had good potential.

The second activation a few days later showed even better results.

Propagation conditions were better this time around and contacts were made in Arizona, nearly 3000 km away from my QTH on the Canadian shoreline of Lake Huron, Colorado (2200 km) and several others close to 2000 km. It was also interesting to note that some of the contacts made were less than 1000km away. This means the antenna is capable of radiating signals at a broad range of take-off angles.

Overall I am very pleased with this simple, low profile antenna. It can be supported on a very lightweight 13 ft high pole that mounts on a small stake in the ground in summer, or a compact tripod when the ground is frozen in winter. The eight 7 feet long radials take the longest to deploy and occupy a circular footprint of 14 feet. An alternative I am working on involves a single raised linear loaded radial to replace the ground radials. This will reduce the footprint to two dimensions and make the antenna suitable for deployment on a narrow trail. I am also working on a multi-band version of this antenna. More details to follow in a future post; stay tuned.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#Antennas #OutdoorOps #POTA #QMX

A road trip with the VP2E antenna … and wolves

My wife and I recently took a short early summer vacation in the Haliburton Highlands area of Ontario. The area is just south-west of Algonquin Park (Ontario’s first and by far the largest provincial park, most of which is accessible only by canoe with sometimes very long and challenging portages … and with a very large population of black bears and wolves).

I had hoped to be able to get a lot of radio time during the trip, but various obstacles, including a major solar storm, intervened to disrupt my plans. I did take one opportunity to put my mighty QMX QRP rig on the air, along with my full-wavelength, low apex, VP2E antenna built for 20m. Conditions were starting to deteriorate but I put a few CW QSOs in the log before shutting down the hilltop field station.

Hill overlooking Haliburton Village Ontario – a perfect site for radio

The QTH for the radio activity was a small park overlooking Haliburton Village. We had the park all to ourselves for most of our visit, which was a blessing since the VP2E occupies quite a large footprint. The propagation forecast did not look good because of an incoming Coronal Mass Ejection. A planned POTA activation the next day had to be canceled because the CME arrived and made QRP operation a little too challenging.

A learning opportunity

Even though poor propagation conditions limited actual time on the air, the activity did result in a couple of ideas for future radio road trips. First, I noticed I was getting better signal reports from stations thousands of kilometers away – generally to the west and south-west. Contacts along the upper eastern US seaboard were generally more difficult. This result suggests my signal may have had a lower take-off angle than modeling predicts. I have come up with a potential solution for this, thanks to the excellent website at portable-antennas.com. Details later in this post.

My wife and I stayed at a lakeside resort style hotel with more rules and restrictions than you could shake a stick at. Although ham radio was not mentioned specifically, I made the decision not to try to set up a 60ft long wire antenna in the limited space available between our room and the shore of picturesque Kashagawigamog Lake. Lesson learned: take an alternative compact antenna on the next road trip. That idea has stimulated a quest to find options for a low impact, discreet antenna that could be used in situations like this. Reader suggestions are welcome.

Who’s afraid of the big black wolf?

The bands may have been disappointing but our visit to the Haliburton Wolf Center certainly was not. A pack of five wolves is maintained inside a 7 acre enclosure. The wolves can be viewed through one-way glass to ensure they are not intimidated by the presence of humans. The wolves are not socialized and their environment is maintained as close to nature as possible. They are fed every 5-10 days with already dead animals such as beaver, tossed into their pen from a platform. Larger roadkill carcasses – such as moose – are lowered into the pen by crane.

It was very interesting to be able to view these magnificent animals from a safe location. I have camped in the backcountry of nearby Algonquin Park several times and (thankfully) never come into contact with any of the population of several hundred wolves. Algonquin Park is also home to several thousand black bears and, unfortunately, I did once experience a visit to my tiny lakeside campsite by a very large bear in the middle of the night.

Telephoto image of one of the black wolves at Haliburton Wolf Center. This is a photo I took myself; if you wish to use it elsewhere please credit its source.

Improvements to the VP2E antenna

My VP2E (Vertically Polarized 2-Element) antenna has given good service in many field operations, but over the years, fiddling with wire lengths to optimize SWR and changing the feed arrangement have resulted in a less than optimal configuration that needed correction. Fortunately the VP2E is very forgiving and despite my sometimes clumsy adjustments it just keeps on working.

CMCC: 15 turns on FT82-43 toroid

Followers of this blog may remember I recently installed an air wound Common Mode Current Choke (CMCC) at the VP2E feedpoint. I used this choke during the Haliburton road trip. It worked fine business but it is a little too bulky when packing out for field operations. When we returned from the trip I decided to replace it with another new CMCC. This one is 15 bifilar turns on a FT82-43 toroidal core. It is so compact that it mounts directly on the inelegant feedpoint insulator. Kudos for innovation, brickbats for style!

Another advantage of the new compact CMCC: it gives 33dB common mode current attenuation across the whole 20m band.

New CMCC and center insulator mounted on antenna

What other VP2E improvements?

Why is it that antenna designers assume everybody wants to work DX? I know many operators enjoy DXing, collecting countries and communicating with hams in the land of far-far-away. I usually have a different objective. Most of my field operating time is spent participating in activities like POTA and SOTA.

When I take a look at a map of, for example, POTA activators in North America, a clear picture emerges. What do I see? The vast majority of the activity is in the eastern part of the United States, and mostly in the northeast. It is disappointing to see that POTA operators in Canada are a rare breed!

And where is most of the POTA activity to be found? On the 20m band. The distance between my QTH in southern Ontario and North Carolina is about 750 miles (1200 km). If Florida is included (I often make contacts there too) the distance extends to around 1250 miles (2000 km). A side note: I once drove my family from Toronto to St Petersburg in Florida for a vacation. RF might take a few microseconds to complete the journey, but it took a heck of a lot longer to get there by road. I never repeated that drive; that’s what airplanes are for!

Now, if I want to target the US northeast, it is not the smartest plan to use an antenna designed for DX. It might be a better idea to use the 40m band instead, but that’s not usually where the activity is to be found. So 20m it is, and my antenna needs to have a higher take-off angle to avoid sending my signal sailing right over the heads of operators in my target area. But … not too high a take-off angle that my signal enters the NVIS zone. The ionosphere will not cooperate by refracting 20m signals back to the planet’s surface, the way it does for the lower bands. Instead, high angle signals on the higher bands tend to become outer space explorers.

Here is where portable-antennas.com becomes very useful. The site includes a design feature for the VP2E antenna with which we can experiment with the various dimensions of the antenna and determine the effect on its performance.

I selected a very low apex height of just over 3 meters which nicely matches the height of one of my fiberglass support poles.

VP2E design specs from portable-antennas.com VP2E elevation plot from portable-antennas.com

Looking at the elevation plot we can see the main lobe at a take-off angle of just over 50 degrees. The -3dB points include a useful component below 30 degrees, but part of the signal is poised to boldly go where where no man has gone before (although Spacex may change that before long). I specified a “good” ground type in my model because my home QTH is in between two huge lakes (Georgian Bay and Lake Huron) with plenty of surface water and high dissolved solids levels. As I travel to other areas where sandy soil or exposed bedrock are present, the antenna will inevitably behave differently. Hey, amateur radio is all about experimentation eh?

VP2E azimuth plot from portable-antennas.com

As the apex of the VP2E is lowered the model shows the antenna’s directionality improves. This could be a very useful feature. How many other simple wire antennas have the directional property of a beam antenna? Well, apart from the Grasswire (discussed several times in this blog) I can think of none.

I usually point my antennas at Texas and expect to cover the whole of CONUS. Now, while evaluating this new configuration of the VP2E, Washington D.C. may be a better target. I hope that last sentence won’t be misinterpreted by the security bots at the NSA!

The VP2E can be rotated very easily by simply picking up the wire ends and swinging them around. Maximum signal is radiated from “the long end” of the antenna (the VP2E is an off-center fed, full wave wire, so “the long end ” refers to the longest wire end away from the feedpoint).

Note: the VP2E with lower apex is an experiment. Experiments never fail; they only provide data for follow-on experiments with revised parameters. My 10ft pole has extensions for 13ft and 16ft that can be deployed if necessary.

What’s next John?

Now that summer is finally here (that brief period between snow storms here in Ontario) I will be spending more time in the great outdoors trying various antennas. That means Ham Radio Outside the Box will be publishing about every two weeks – unless there is something that needs to be urgently communicated to this blog’s burgeoning list of followers. In that vein, a sincere thank you to all the new followers who have signed up in recent weeks. I have some very interesting ideas to share over the coming weeks so please stay tuned.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#AmateurRadio #Antennas #OutdoorOps #POTA #QMX

A road trip with the VP2E antenna … and wolves

My wife and I recently took a short early summer vacation in the Haliburton Highlands area of Ontario. The area is just south-west of Algonquin Park (Ontario’s first and by far the largest provincial park, most of which is accessible only by canoe with sometimes very long and challenging portages … and with a very large population of black bears and wolves).

I had hoped to be able to get a lot of radio time during the trip, but various obstacles, including a major solar storm, intervened to disrupt my plans. I did take one opportunity to put my mighty QMX QRP rig on the air, along with my full-wavelength, low apex, VP2E antenna built for 20m. Conditions were starting to deteriorate but I put a few CW QSOs in the log before shutting down the hilltop field station.

Hill overlooking Haliburton Village Ontario – a perfect site for radio

The QTH for the radio activity was a small park overlooking Haliburton Village. We had the park all to ourselves for most of our visit, which was a blessing since the VP2E occupies quite a large footprint. The propagation forecast did not look good because of an incoming Coronal Mass Ejection. A planned POTA activation the next day had to be canceled because the CME arrived and made QRP operation a little too challenging.

A learning opportunity

Even though poor propagation conditions limited actual time on the air, the activity did result in a couple of ideas for future radio road trips. First, I noticed I was getting better signal reports from stations thousands of kilometers away – generally to the west and south-west. Contacts along the upper eastern US seaboard were generally more difficult. This result suggests my signal may have had a lower take-off angle than modeling predicts. I have come up with a potential solution for this, thanks to the excellent website at portable-antennas.com. Details later in this post.

My wife and I stayed at a lakeside resort style hotel with more rules and restrictions than you could shake a stick at. Although ham radio was not mentioned specifically, I made the decision not to try to set up a 60ft long wire antenna in the limited space available between our room and the shore of picturesque Kashagawigamog Lake. Lesson learned: take an alternative compact antenna on the next road trip. That idea has stimulated a quest to find options for a low impact, discreet antenna that could be used in situations like this. Reader suggestions are welcome.

Who’s afraid of the big black wolf?

The bands may have been disappointing but our visit to the Haliburton Wolf Center certainly was not. A pack of five wolves is maintained inside a 7 acre enclosure. The wolves can be viewed through one-way glass to ensure they are not intimidated by the presence of humans. The wolves are not socialized and their environment is maintained as close to nature as possible. They are fed every 5-10 days with already dead animals such as beaver, tossed into their pen from a platform. Larger roadkill carcasses – such as moose – are lowered into the pen by crane.

It was very interesting to be able to view these magnificent animals from a safe location. I have camped in the backcountry of nearby Algonquin Park several times and (thankfully) never come into contact with any of the population of several hundred wolves. Algonquin Park is also home to several thousand black bears and, unfortunately, I did once experience a visit to my tiny lakeside campsite by a very large bear in the middle of the night.

Telephoto image of one of the black wolves at Haliburton Wolf Center. This is a photo I took myself; if you wish to use it elsewhere please credit its source.

Improvements to the VP2E antenna

My VP2E (Vertically Polarized 2-Element) antenna has given good service in many field operations, but over the years, fiddling with wire lengths to optimize SWR and changing the feed arrangement have resulted in a less than optimal configuration that needed correction. Fortunately the VP2E is very forgiving and despite my sometimes clumsy adjustments it just keeps on working.

CMCC: 15 turns on FT82-43 toroid

Followers of this blog may remember I recently installed an air wound Common Mode Current Choke (CMCC) at the VP2E feedpoint. I used this choke during the Haliburton road trip. It worked fine business but it is a little too bulky when packing out for field operations. When we returned from the trip I decided to replace it with another new CMCC. This one is 15 bifilar turns on a FT82-43 toroidal core. It is so compact that it mounts directly on the inelegant feedpoint insulator. Kudos for innovation, brickbats for style!

Another advantage of the new compact CMCC: it gives 33dB common mode current attenuation across the whole 20m band.

New CMCC and center insulator mounted on antenna

What other VP2E improvements?

Why is it that antenna designers assume everybody wants to work DX? I know many operators enjoy DXing, collecting countries and communicating with hams in the land of far-far-away. I usually have a different objective. Most of my field operating time is spent participating in activities like POTA and SOTA.

When I take a look at a map of, for example, POTA activators in North America, a clear picture emerges. What do I see? The vast majority of the activity is in the eastern part of the United States, and mostly in the northeast. It is disappointing to see that POTA operators in Canada are a rare breed!

And where is most of the POTA activity to be found? On the 20m band. The distance between my QTH in southern Ontario and North Carolina is about 750 miles (1200 km). If Florida is included (I often make contacts there too) the distance extends to around 1250 miles (2000 km). A side note: I once drove my family from Toronto to St Petersburg in Florida for a vacation. RF might take a few microseconds to complete the journey, but it took a heck of a lot longer to get there by road. I never repeated that drive; that’s what airplanes are for!

Now, if I want to target the US northeast, it is not the smartest plan to use an antenna designed for DX. It might be a better idea to use the 40m band instead, but that’s not usually where the activity is to be found. So 20m it is, and my antenna needs to have a higher take-off angle to avoid sending my signal sailing right over the heads of operators in my target area. But … not too high a take-off angle that my signal enters the NVIS zone. The ionosphere will not cooperate by refracting 20m signals back to the planet’s surface, the way it does for the lower bands. Instead, high angle signals on the higher bands tend to become outer space explorers.

Here is where portable-antennas.com becomes very useful. The site includes a design feature for the VP2E antenna with which we can experiment with the various dimensions of the antenna and determine the effect on its performance.

I selected a very low apex height of just over 3 meters which nicely matches the height of one of my fiberglass support poles.

VP2E design specs from portable-antennas.com VP2E elevation plot from portable-antennas.com

Looking at the elevation plot we can see the main lobe at a take-off angle of just over 50 degrees. The -3dB points include a useful component below 30 degrees, but part of the signal is poised to boldly go where where no man has gone before (although Spacex may change that before long). I specified a “good” ground type in my model because my home QTH is in between two huge lakes (Georgian Bay and Lake Huron) with plenty of surface water and high dissolved solids levels. As I travel to other areas where sandy soil or exposed bedrock are present, the antenna will inevitably behave differently. Hey, amateur radio is all about experimentation eh?

VP2E azimuth plot from portable-antennas.com

As the apex of the VP2E is lowered the model shows the antenna’s directionality improves. This could be a very useful feature. How many other simple wire antennas have the directional property of a beam antenna? Well, apart from the Grasswire (discussed several times in this blog) I can think of none.

I usually point my antennas at Texas and expect to cover the whole of CONUS. Now, while evaluating this new configuration of the VP2E, Washington D.C. may be a better target. I hope that last sentence won’t be misinterpreted by the security bots at the NSA!

The VP2E can be rotated very easily by simply picking up the wire ends and swinging them around. Maximum signal is radiated from “the long end” of the antenna (the VP2E is an off-center fed, full wave wire, so “the long end ” refers to the longest wire end away from the feedpoint).

Note: the VP2E with lower apex is an experiment. Experiments never fail; they only provide data for follow-on experiments with revised parameters. My 10ft pole has extensions for 13ft and 16ft that can be deployed if necessary.

What’s next John?

Now that summer is finally here (that brief period between snow storms here in Ontario) I will be spending more time in the great outdoors trying various antennas. That means Ham Radio Outside the Box will be publishing about every two weeks – unless there is something that needs to be urgently communicated to this blog’s burgeoning list of followers. In that vein, a sincere thank you to all the new followers who have signed up in recent weeks. I have some very interesting ideas to share over the coming weeks so please stay tuned.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#AmateurRadio #Antennas #OutdoorOps #POTA #QMX

A road trip with the VP2E antenna … and wolves

My wife and I recently took a short early summer vacation in the Haliburton Highlands area of Ontario. The area is just south-west of Algonquin Park (Ontario’s first and by far the largest provincial park, most of which is accessible only by canoe with sometimes very long and challenging portages … and with a very large population of black bears and wolves).

I had hoped to be able to get a lot of radio time during the trip, but various obstacles, including a major solar storm, intervened to disrupt my plans. I did take one opportunity to put my mighty QMX QRP rig on the air, along with my full-wavelength, low apex, VP2E antenna built for 20m. Conditions were starting to deteriorate but I put a few CW QSOs in the log before shutting down the hilltop field station.

Hill overlooking Haliburton Village Ontario – a perfect site for radio

The QTH for the radio activity was a small park overlooking Haliburton Village. We had the park all to ourselves for most of our visit, which was a blessing since the VP2E occupies quite a large footprint. The propagation forecast did not look good because of an incoming Coronal Mass Ejection. A planned POTA activation the next day had to be canceled because the CME arrived and made QRP operation a little too challenging.

A learning opportunity

Even though poor propagation conditions limited actual time on the air, the activity did result in a couple of ideas for future radio road trips. First, I noticed I was getting better signal reports from stations thousands of kilometers away – generally to the west and south-west. Contacts along the upper eastern US seaboard were generally more difficult. This result suggests my signal may have had a lower take-off angle than modeling predicts. I have come up with a potential solution for this, thanks to the excellent website at portable-antennas.com. Details later in this post.

My wife and I stayed at a lakeside resort style hotel with more rules and restrictions than you could shake a stick at. Although ham radio was not mentioned specifically, I made the decision not to try to set up a 60ft long wire antenna in the limited space available between our room and the shore of picturesque Kashagawigamog Lake. Lesson learned: take an alternative compact antenna on the next road trip. That idea has stimulated a quest to find options for a low impact, discreet antenna that could be used in situations like this. Reader suggestions are welcome.

Who’s afraid of the big black wolf?

The bands may have been disappointing but our visit to the Haliburton Wolf Center certainly was not. A pack of five wolves is maintained inside a 7 acre enclosure. The wolves can be viewed through one-way glass to ensure they are not intimidated by the presence of humans. The wolves are not socialized and their environment is maintained as close to nature as possible. They are fed every 5-10 days with already dead animals such as beaver, tossed into their pen from a platform. Larger roadkill carcasses – such as moose – are lowered into the pen by crane.

It was very interesting to be able to view these magnificent animals from a safe location. I have camped in the backcountry of nearby Algonquin Park several times and (thankfully) never come into contact with any of the population of several hundred wolves. Algonquin Park is also home to several thousand black bears and, unfortunately, I did once experience a visit to my tiny lakeside campsite by a very large bear in the middle of the night.

Telephoto image of one of the black wolves at Haliburton Wolf Center. This is a photo I took myself; if you wish to use it elsewhere please credit its source.

Improvements to the VP2E antenna

My VP2E (Vertically Polarized 2-Element) antenna has given good service in many field operations, but over the years, fiddling with wire lengths to optimize SWR and changing the feed arrangement have resulted in a less than optimal configuration that needed correction. Fortunately the VP2E is very forgiving and despite my sometimes clumsy adjustments it just keeps on working.

CMCC: 15 turns on FT82-43 toroid

Followers of this blog may remember I recently installed an air wound Common Mode Current Choke (CMCC) at the VP2E feedpoint. I used this choke during the Haliburton road trip. It worked fine business but it is a little too bulky when packing out for field operations. When we returned from the trip I decided to replace it with another new CMCC. This one is 15 bifilar turns on a FT82-43 toroidal core. It is so compact that it mounts directly on the inelegant feedpoint insulator. Kudos for innovation, brickbats for style!

Another advantage of the new compact CMCC: it gives 33dB common mode current attenuation across the whole 20m band.

New CMCC and center insulator mounted on antenna

What other VP2E improvements?

Why is it that antenna designers assume everybody wants to work DX? I know many operators enjoy DXing, collecting countries and communicating with hams in the land of far-far-away. I usually have a different objective. Most of my field operating time is spent participating in activities like POTA and SOTA.

When I take a look at a map of, for example, POTA activators in North America, a clear picture emerges. What do I see? The vast majority of the activity is in the eastern part of the United States, and mostly in the northeast. It is disappointing to see that POTA operators in Canada are a rare breed!

And where is most of the POTA activity to be found? On the 20m band. The distance between my QTH in southern Ontario and North Carolina is about 750 miles (1200 km). If Florida is included (I often make contacts there too) the distance extends to around 1250 miles (2000 km). A side note: I once drove my family from Toronto to St Petersburg in Florida for a vacation. RF might take a few microseconds to complete the journey, but it took a heck of a lot longer to get there by road. I never repeated that drive; that’s what airplanes are for!

Now, if I want to target the US northeast, it is not the smartest plan to use an antenna designed for DX. It might be a better idea to use the 40m band instead, but that’s not usually where the activity is to be found. So 20m it is, and my antenna needs to have a higher take-off angle to avoid sending my signal sailing right over the heads of operators in my target area. But … not too high a take-off angle that my signal enters the NVIS zone. The ionosphere will not cooperate by refracting 20m signals back to the planet’s surface, the way it does for the lower bands. Instead, high angle signals on the higher bands tend to become outer space explorers.

Here is where portable-antennas.com becomes very useful. The site includes a design feature for the VP2E antenna with which we can experiment with the various dimensions of the antenna and determine the effect on its performance.

I selected a very low apex height of just over 3 meters which nicely matches the height of one of my fiberglass support poles.

VP2E design specs from portable-antennas.com VP2E elevation plot from portable-antennas.com

Looking at the elevation plot we can see the main lobe at a take-off angle of just over 50 degrees. The -3dB points include a useful component below 30 degrees, but part of the signal is poised to boldly go where where no man has gone before (although Spacex may change that before long). I specified a “good” ground type in my model because my home QTH is in between two huge lakes (Georgian Bay and Lake Huron) with plenty of surface water and high dissolved solids levels. As I travel to other areas where sandy soil or exposed bedrock are present, the antenna will inevitably behave differently. Hey, amateur radio is all about experimentation eh?

VP2E azimuth plot from portable-antennas.com

As the apex of the VP2E is lowered the model shows the antenna’s directionality improves. This could be a very useful feature. How many other simple wire antennas have the directional property of a beam antenna? Well, apart from the Grasswire (discussed several times in this blog) I can think of none.

I usually point my antennas at Texas and expect to cover the whole of CONUS. Now, while evaluating this new configuration of the VP2E, Washington D.C. may be a better target. I hope that last sentence won’t be misinterpreted by the security bots at the NSA!

The VP2E can be rotated very easily by simply picking up the wire ends and swinging them around. Maximum signal is radiated from “the long end” of the antenna (the VP2E is an off-center fed, full wave wire, so “the long end ” refers to the longest wire end away from the feedpoint).

Note: the VP2E with lower apex is an experiment. Experiments never fail; they only provide data for follow-on experiments with revised parameters. My 10ft pole has extensions for 13ft and 16ft that can be deployed if necessary.

What’s next John?

Now that summer is finally here (that brief period between snow storms here in Ontario) I will be spending more time in the great outdoors trying various antennas. That means Ham Radio Outside the Box will be publishing about every two weeks – unless there is something that needs to be urgently communicated to this blog’s burgeoning list of followers. In that vein, a sincere thank you to all the new followers who have signed up in recent weeks. I have some very interesting ideas to share over the coming weeks so please stay tuned.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#AmateurRadio #Antennas #OutdoorOps #POTA #QMX

A road trip with the VP2E antenna … and wolves

My wife and I recently took a short early summer vacation in the Haliburton Highlands area of Ontario. The area is just south-west of Algonquin Park (Ontario’s first and by far the largest provincial park, most of which is accessible only by canoe with sometimes very long and challenging portages … and with a very large population of black bears and wolves).

I had hoped to be able to get a lot of radio time during the trip, but various obstacles, including a major solar storm, intervened to disrupt my plans. I did take one opportunity to put my mighty QMX QRP rig on the air, along with my full-wavelength, low apex, VP2E antenna built for 20m. Conditions were starting to deteriorate but I put a few CW QSOs in the log before shutting down the hilltop field station.

Hill overlooking Haliburton Village Ontario – a perfect site for radio

The QTH for the radio activity was a small park overlooking Haliburton Village. We had the park all to ourselves for most of our visit, which was a blessing since the VP2E occupies quite a large footprint. The propagation forecast did not look good because of an incoming Coronal Mass Ejection. A planned POTA activation the next day had to be canceled because the CME arrived and made QRP operation a little too challenging.

A learning opportunity

Even though poor propagation conditions limited actual time on the air, the activity did result in a couple of ideas for future radio road trips. First, I noticed I was getting better signal reports from stations thousands of kilometers away – generally to the west and south-west. Contacts along the upper eastern US seaboard were generally more difficult. This result suggests my signal may have had a lower take-off angle than modeling predicts. I have come up with a potential solution for this, thanks to the excellent website at portable-antennas.com. Details later in this post.

My wife and I stayed at a lakeside resort style hotel with more rules and restrictions than you could shake a stick at. Although ham radio was not mentioned specifically, I made the decision not to try to set up a 60ft long wire antenna in the limited space available between our room and the shore of picturesque Kashagawigamog Lake. Lesson learned: take an alternative compact antenna on the next road trip. That idea has stimulated a quest to find options for a low impact, discreet antenna that could be used in situations like this. Reader suggestions are welcome.

Who’s afraid of the big black wolf?

The bands may have been disappointing but our visit to the Haliburton Wolf Center certainly was not. A pack of five wolves is maintained inside a 7 acre enclosure. The wolves can be viewed through one-way glass to ensure they are not intimidated by the presence of humans. The wolves are not socialized and their environment is maintained as close to nature as possible. They are fed every 5-10 days with already dead animals such as beaver, tossed into their pen from a platform. Larger roadkill carcasses – such as moose – are lowered into the pen by crane.

It was very interesting to be able to view these magnificent animals from a safe location. I have camped in the backcountry of nearby Algonquin Park several times and (thankfully) never come into contact with any of the population of several hundred wolves. Algonquin Park is also home to several thousand black bears and, unfortunately, I did once experience a visit to my tiny lakeside campsite by a very large bear in the middle of the night.

Telephoto image of one of the black wolves at Haliburton Wolf Center. This is a photo I took myself; if you wish to use it elsewhere please credit its source.

Improvements to the VP2E antenna

My VP2E (Vertically Polarized 2-Element) antenna has given good service in many field operations, but over the years, fiddling with wire lengths to optimize SWR and changing the feed arrangement have resulted in a less than optimal configuration that needed correction. Fortunately the VP2E is very forgiving and despite my sometimes clumsy adjustments it just keeps on working.

CMCC: 15 turns on FT82-43 toroid

Followers of this blog may remember I recently installed an air wound Common Mode Current Choke (CMCC) at the VP2E feedpoint. I used this choke during the Haliburton road trip. It worked fine business but it is a little too bulky when packing out for field operations. When we returned from the trip I decided to replace it with another new CMCC. This one is 15 bifilar turns on a FT82-43 toroidal core. It is so compact that it mounts directly on the inelegant feedpoint insulator. Kudos for innovation, brickbats for style!

Another advantage of the new compact CMCC: it gives 33dB common mode current attenuation across the whole 20m band.

New CMCC and center insulator mounted on antenna

What other VP2E improvements?

Why is it that antenna designers assume everybody wants to work DX? I know many operators enjoy DXing, collecting countries and communicating with hams in the land of far-far-away. I usually have a different objective. Most of my field operating time is spent participating in activities like POTA and SOTA.

When I take a look at a map of, for example, POTA activators in North America, a clear picture emerges. What do I see? The vast majority of the activity is in the eastern part of the United States, and mostly in the northeast. It is disappointing to see that POTA operators in Canada are a rare breed!

And where is most of the POTA activity to be found? On the 20m band. The distance between my QTH in southern Ontario and North Carolina is about 750 miles (1200 km). If Florida is included (I often make contacts there too) the distance extends to around 1250 miles (2000 km). A side note: I once drove my family from Toronto to St Petersburg in Florida for a vacation. RF might take a few microseconds to complete the journey, but it took a heck of a lot longer to get there by road. I never repeated that drive; that’s what airplanes are for!

Now, if I want to target the US northeast, it is not the smartest plan to use an antenna designed for DX. It might be a better idea to use the 40m band instead, but that’s not usually where the activity is to be found. So 20m it is, and my antenna needs to have a higher take-off angle to avoid sending my signal sailing right over the heads of operators in my target area. But … not too high a take-off angle that my signal enters the NVIS zone. The ionosphere will not cooperate by refracting 20m signals back to the planet’s surface, the way it does for the lower bands. Instead, high angle signals on the higher bands tend to become outer space explorers.

Here is where portable-antennas.com becomes very useful. The site includes a design feature for the VP2E antenna with which we can experiment with the various dimensions of the antenna and determine the effect on its performance.

I selected a very low apex height of just over 3 meters which nicely matches the height of one of my fiberglass support poles.

VP2E design specs from portable-antennas.com VP2E elevation plot from portable-antennas.com

Looking at the elevation plot we can see the main lobe at a take-off angle of just over 50 degrees. The -3dB points include a useful component below 30 degrees, but part of the signal is poised to boldly go where where no man has gone before (although Spacex may change that before long). I specified a “good” ground type in my model because my home QTH is in between two huge lakes (Georgian Bay and Lake Huron) with plenty of surface water and high dissolved solids levels. As I travel to other areas where sandy soil or exposed bedrock are present, the antenna will inevitably behave differently. Hey, amateur radio is all about experimentation eh?

VP2E azimuth plot from portable-antennas.com

As the apex of the VP2E is lowered the model shows the antenna’s directionality improves. This could be a very useful feature. How many other simple wire antennas have the directional property of a beam antenna? Well, apart from the Grasswire (discussed several times in this blog) I can think of none.

I usually point my antennas at Texas and expect to cover the whole of CONUS. Now, while evaluating this new configuration of the VP2E, Washington D.C. may be a better target. I hope that last sentence won’t be misinterpreted by the security bots at the NSA!

The VP2E can be rotated very easily by simply picking up the wire ends and swinging them around. Maximum signal is radiated from “the long end” of the antenna (the VP2E is an off-center fed, full wave wire, so “the long end ” refers to the longest wire end away from the feedpoint).

Note: the VP2E with lower apex is an experiment. Experiments never fail; they only provide data for follow-on experiments with revised parameters. My 10ft pole has extensions for 13ft and 16ft that can be deployed if necessary.

What’s next John?

Now that summer is finally here (that brief period between snow storms here in Ontario) I will be spending more time in the great outdoors trying various antennas. That means Ham Radio Outside the Box will be publishing about every two weeks – unless there is something that needs to be urgently communicated to this blog’s burgeoning list of followers. In that vein, a sincere thank you to all the new followers who have signed up in recent weeks. I have some very interesting ideas to share over the coming weeks so please stay tuned.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#AmateurRadio #Antennas #OutdoorOps #POTA #QMX

What to do when the bands suck?

Solar cycle #25 has reached its peak and is on the decline again. We may still have a few years of good propagation left but I am planning ahead. During the last solar minimum I adapted by … forgive me … increasing my transmit power. This time around I hope to keep working QRP, but increase my effective radiated power through bigger, more efficient antennas.

The peak of cycle 25 was actually quite a disappointment. The Sun became hyper-active spewing a few too many Coronal Mass Ejections, flares and high energy particles our way. Hopefully, now that the peak has passed, we might even get some less unpredictable propagation before we hit solar minimum.

As solar activity declines the higher bands seem to be open less often, so my personal focus is on 20m, 30m and 40m. Those bands are open throughout the solar cycle – except during solar storms of course. At least once per week I venture onto 80m for a CW rag chew with friends, but that is at the home QTH. When operating out in the woods 20m, 30m and 40m are my goto bands.

The sign should also warn that bears don’t react well to posing for “selfies”

On the subject of “out in the woods” (my happy place), our local black bear population has awoken from its winter slumber and has been seen roaming in people places in my local town.

Bears are not usually a problem, they avoid human contact, but in the spring they are hungry and some of them associate people with food. Female bears with cubs can be very protective of their young which makes them potentially dangerous.

Antenna solutions for challenging conditions

One simple rule should be all that is necessary for getting a signal to propagate when the ionosphere is in combat with an angry Sun – or even when the Sun is dormant. Wire in the air = signal in the air. That is when it is probably a good idea to leave those very short, inductively loaded whips at home and start buying reels of wire and poles.

When I look back at what has worked in the past, the picture becomes very clear. Some of my small collection of QRP radios support only 20m, 30m and 40m. The 20m and 30m bands usually favor longer distance contacts, while 40m is better at shorter range. Out of these three bands I use 20m the most and, during the bottom of the solar cycle, 40m is my most used band. I don’t get on 30m very often; it is a WARC band and some operators dislike “contest-like” activity such as POTA on the WARC bands. No sense creating friction.

Best option for 20m?

This may be a bit of generalization, but a half-wave antenna launches more signal in the air than a quarter-wave. All half-wave antennas are not created equal. For example the very popular End-Fed Half-Wave requires a very carefully engineered matching device. Improperly engineered, one-size-fits-all, high ratio transformers often have very low efficiency.

A 5/8 wave vertical antenna may be even better in some circumstances – for example when the base of the antenna and all the radials are raised above ground. But 5/8 of a wavelength is a bit of a tall order – on 20m that’s 41 feet of antenna waving in the wind. Raise it above ground and you may have to attach a flashing red light at the top.

There is an even better solution. How about a 20m wire antenna that is low to the ground, is slightly directional and offers over 3dBi gain? Ham Radio Outside the Box explored this antenna three years ago; it is called the VP2E. Although VP2E sounds like a callsign (and it actually is a valid callsign) it is an abbreviation for Vertically Polarized 2-Element. It requires no tuner – and the VP2E is one full wavelength long.

VP2E antenna

I had great success with my VP2E before I stopped using it. It fell out of favor because of just one thing. Proponents of the VP2E claim that no baluns, ununs or feedline chokes are required. Perhaps, in theory, if the currents on either side of the feedpoint are balanced that could be true. In practise, even a small imbalance in the currents can lead to feedline radiation. To prevent this I added a current choke at the feedpoint.

Now this is where a problem arose. The feedpoint is not supported, so a choke hanging from the feedpoint pulls the wire down creating significant sag in the wire. The original choke that was used was made from 3 feet (~1m) of RG-316 coax looped three times through four snap-on ferrites; it weighed 126 grams.

VP2E ready to deploy, showing new lighter air-core current choke

The world’s worst 80m Common Mode Current Choke!

When I decided to resurrect the VP2E I wondered whether I could improve the choke to decrease its weight. I chose to get rid of the heavy ferrites and build an air-core coil choke. I found about 9 feet of RG-174 coax in my junque drawer. I also found an old pill container made of plastic so light it almost defies gravity. After winding the entire length of the RG-174 around the super light plastic former I hooked it up to my NanoVNA to measure its effectiveness.

I ran a scan from 3 to 30 MHz and noted the attenuation across the HF bands. On the 10m band the choke is exceptionally effective with a common mode attenuation exceeding 30dB. On the other end of the scale, the common mode attenuation on the 80m band was a lousy 8dB. Well, the VP2E is a monoband antenna built for 20m, so the choke’s performance on 80m is not a concern.

Performance on 20m is marginal, but acceptable, at -20dB. Since the current imbalance is likely to be small 20dB of common mode attenuation should be quite adequate. And, the new choke weighs in at 67 grams, nearly half the weight of the old choke.

It’s stealthy too

Apart from its gain, another benefit of the VP2E is that it only needs a short pole for support. 4.2 meters (13.8ft) is the recommended height. My crappie pole is about 0.2 meters short but modeling the antenna shows very little impact – you work with what you got!

Where to buy a VP2E

This a real hobbyist’s antenna; you can’t buy it, you gotta build it! A 100ft reel of thin wire – I use silicone coated 22ga wire – is all you need. Cut it to the lengths shown in the diagram above. Solder the wires to a piece of coax feedline and you are ready to get on the air. Choke? I think it helps but you can use the antenna without one.

A versatile short, strong, light support pole

The center of my VP2E is supported on a 13ft crappie pole which is very light for carrying into the field. It is very strong too. Well actually, I threw away the very top sections of two crappie poles and a made a strong, light single pole out of the lower sections. It mounts on a fiberglass driveway marker pushed into the ground.

The exact same pole also works for my 40m wire antenna. It’s a low dipole built for NVIS (Near Vertical Incidence Skywave). More details on that in a later post. Stay tuned.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#AmateurRadio #Antennas #OutdoorOps #Portable #POTA

What to do when the bands suck?

Solar cycle #25 has reached its peak and is on the decline again. We may still have a few years of good propagation left but I am planning ahead. During the last solar minimum I adapted by … forgive me … increasing my transmit power. This time around I hope to keep working QRP, but increase my effective radiated power through bigger, more efficient antennas.

The peak of cycle 25 was actually quite a disappointment. The Sun became hyper-active spewing a few too many Coronal Mass Ejections, flares and high energy particles our way. Hopefully, now that the peak has passed, we might even get some less unpredictable propagation before we hit solar minimum.

As solar activity declines the higher bands seem to be open less often, so my personal focus is on 20m, 30m and 40m. Those bands are open throughout the solar cycle – except during solar storms of course. At least once per week I venture onto 80m for a CW rag chew with friends, but that is at the home QTH. When operating out in the woods 20m, 30m and 40m are my goto bands.

The sign should also warn that bears don’t react well to posing for “selfies”

On the subject of “out in the woods” (my happy place), our local black bear population has awoken from its winter slumber and has been seen roaming in people places in my local town.

Bears are not usually a problem, they avoid human contact, but in the spring they are hungry and some of them associate people with food. Female bears with cubs can be very protective of their young which makes them potentially dangerous.

Antenna solutions for challenging conditions

One simple rule should be all that is necessary for getting a signal to propagate when the ionosphere is in combat with an angry Sun – or even when the Sun is dormant. Wire in the air = signal in the air. That is when it is probably a good idea to leave those very short, inductively loaded whips at home and start buying reels of wire and poles.

When I look back at what has worked in the past, the picture becomes very clear. Some of my small collection of QRP radios support only 20m, 30m and 40m. The 20m and 30m bands usually favor longer distance contacts, while 40m is better at shorter range. Out of these three bands I use 20m the most and, during the bottom of the solar cycle, 40m is my most used band. I don’t get on 30m very often; it is a WARC band and some operators dislike “contest-like” activity such as POTA on the WARC bands. No sense creating friction.

Best option for 20m?

This may be a bit of generalization, but a half-wave antenna launches more signal in the air than a quarter-wave. All half-wave antennas are not created equal. For example the very popular End-Fed Half-Wave requires a very carefully engineered matching device. Improperly engineered, one-size-fits-all, high ratio transformers often have very low efficiency.

A 5/8 wave vertical antenna may be even better in some circumstances – for example when the base of the antenna and all the radials are raised above ground. But 5/8 of a wavelength is a bit of a tall order – on 20m that’s 41 feet of antenna waving in the wind. Raise it above ground and you may have to attach a flashing red light at the top.

There is an even better solution. How about a 20m wire antenna that is low to the ground, is slightly directional and offers over 3dBi gain? Ham Radio Outside the Box explored this antenna three years ago; it is called the VP2E. Although VP2E sounds like a callsign (and it actually is a valid callsign) it is an abbreviation for Vertically Polarized 2-Element. It requires no tuner – and the VP2E is one full wavelength long.

VP2E antenna

I had great success with my VP2E before I stopped using it. It fell out of favor because of just one thing. Proponents of the VP2E claim that no baluns, ununs or feedline chokes are required. Perhaps, in theory, if the currents on either side of the feedpoint are balanced that could be true. In practise, even a small imbalance in the currents can lead to feedline radiation. To prevent this I added a current choke at the feedpoint.

Now this is where a problem arose. The feedpoint is not supported, so a choke hanging from the feedpoint pulls the wire down creating significant sag in the wire. The original choke that was used was made from 3 feet (~1m) of RG-316 coax looped three times through four snap-on ferrites; it weighed 126 grams.

VP2E ready to deploy, showing new lighter air-core current choke

The world’s worst 80m Common Mode Current Choke!

When I decided to resurrect the VP2E I wondered whether I could improve the choke to decrease its weight. I chose to get rid of the heavy ferrites and build an air-core coil choke. I found about 9 feet of RG-174 coax in my junque drawer. I also found an old pill container made of plastic so light it almost defies gravity. After winding the entire length of the RG-174 around the super light plastic former I hooked it up to my NanoVNA to measure its effectiveness.

I ran a scan from 3 to 30 MHz and noted the attenuation across the HF bands. On the 10m band the choke is exceptionally effective with a common mode attenuation exceeding 30dB. On the other end of the scale, the common mode attenuation on the 80m band was a lousy 8dB. Well, the VP2E is a monoband antenna built for 20m, so the choke’s performance on 80m is not a concern.

Performance on 20m is marginal, but acceptable, at -20dB. Since the current imbalance is likely to be small 20dB of common mode attenuation should be quite adequate. And, the new choke weighs in at 67 grams, nearly half the weight of the old choke.

It’s stealthy too

Apart from its gain, another benefit of the VP2E is that it only needs a short pole for support. 4.2 meters (13.8ft) is the recommended height. My crappie pole is about 0.2 meters short but modeling the antenna shows very little impact – you work with what you got!

Where to buy a VP2E

This a real hobbyist’s antenna; you can’t buy it, you gotta build it! A 100ft reel of thin wire – I use silicone coated 22ga wire – is all you need. Cut it to the lengths shown in the diagram above. Solder the wires to a piece of coax feedline and you are ready to get on the air. Choke? I think it helps but you can use the antenna without one.

A versatile short, strong, light support pole

The center of my VP2E is supported on a 13ft crappie pole which is very light for carrying into the field. It is very strong too. Well actually, I threw away the very top sections of two crappie poles and a made a strong, light single pole out of the lower sections. It mounts on a fiberglass driveway marker pushed into the ground.

The exact same pole also works for my 40m wire antenna. It’s a low dipole built for NVIS (Near Vertical Incidence Skywave). More details on that in a later post. Stay tuned.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#AmateurRadio #Antennas #OutdoorOps #Portable #POTA

What to do when the bands suck?

Solar cycle #25 has reached its peak and is on the decline again. We may still have a few years of good propagation left but I am planning ahead. During the last solar minimum I adapted by … forgive me … increasing my transmit power. This time around I hope to keep working QRP, but increase my effective radiated power through bigger, more efficient antennas.

The peak of cycle 25 was actually quite a disappointment. The Sun became hyper-active spewing a few too many Coronal Mass Ejections, flares and high energy particles our way. Hopefully, now that the peak has passed, we might even get some less unpredictable propagation before we hit solar minimum.

As solar activity declines the higher bands seem to be open less often, so my personal focus is on 20m, 30m and 40m. Those bands are open throughout the solar cycle – except during solar storms of course. At least once per week I venture onto 80m for a CW rag chew with friends, but that is at the home QTH. When operating out in the woods 20m, 30m and 40m are my goto bands.

The sign should also warn that bears don’t react well to posing for “selfies”

On the subject of “out in the woods” (my happy place), our local black bear population has awoken from its winter slumber and has been seen roaming in people places in my local town.

Bears are not usually a problem, they avoid human contact, but in the spring they are hungry and some of them associate people with food. Female bears with cubs can be very protective of their young which makes them potentially dangerous.

Antenna solutions for challenging conditions

One simple rule should be all that is necessary for getting a signal to propagate when the ionosphere is in combat with an angry Sun – or even when the Sun is dormant. Wire in the air = signal in the air. That is when it is probably a good idea to leave those very short, inductively loaded whips at home and start buying reels of wire and poles.

When I look back at what has worked in the past, the picture becomes very clear. Some of my small collection of QRP radios support only 20m, 30m and 40m. The 20m and 30m bands usually favor longer distance contacts, while 40m is better at shorter range. Out of these three bands I use 20m the most and, during the bottom of the solar cycle, 40m is my most used band. I don’t get on 30m very often; it is a WARC band and some operators dislike “contest-like” activity such as POTA on the WARC bands. No sense creating friction.

Best option for 20m?

This may be a bit of generalization, but a half-wave antenna launches more signal in the air than a quarter-wave. All half-wave antennas are not created equal. For example the very popular End-Fed Half-Wave requires a very carefully engineered matching device. Improperly engineered, one-size-fits-all, high ratio transformers often have very low efficiency.

A 5/8 wave vertical antenna may be even better in some circumstances – for example when the base of the antenna and all the radials are raised above ground. But 5/8 of a wavelength is a bit of a tall order – on 20m that’s 41 feet of antenna waving in the wind. Raise it above ground and you may have to attach a flashing red light at the top.

There is an even better solution. How about a 20m wire antenna that is low to the ground, is slightly directional and offers over 3dBi gain? Ham Radio Outside the Box explored this antenna three years ago; it is called the VP2E. Although VP2E sounds like a callsign (and it actually is a valid callsign) it is an abbreviation for Vertically Polarized 2-Element. It requires no tuner – and the VP2E is one full wavelength long.

VP2E antenna

I had great success with my VP2E before I stopped using it. It fell out of favor because of just one thing. Proponents of the VP2E claim that no baluns, ununs or feedline chokes are required. Perhaps, in theory, if the currents on either side of the feedpoint are balanced that could be true. In practise, even a small imbalance in the currents can lead to feedline radiation. To prevent this I added a current choke at the feedpoint.

Now this is where a problem arose. The feedpoint is not supported, so a choke hanging from the feedpoint pulls the wire down creating significant sag in the wire. The original choke that was used was made from 3 feet (~1m) of RG-316 coax looped three times through four snap-on ferrites; it weighed 126 grams.

VP2E ready to deploy, showing new lighter air-core current choke

The world’s worst 80m Common Mode Current Choke!

When I decided to resurrect the VP2E I wondered whether I could improve the choke to decrease its weight. I chose to get rid of the heavy ferrites and build an air-core coil choke. I found about 9 feet of RG-174 coax in my junque drawer. I also found an old pill container made of plastic so light it almost defies gravity. After winding the entire length of the RG-174 around the super light plastic former I hooked it up to my NanoVNA to measure its effectiveness.

I ran a scan from 3 to 30 MHz and noted the attenuation across the HF bands. On the 10m band the choke is exceptionally effective with a common mode attenuation exceeding 30dB. On the other end of the scale, the common mode attenuation on the 80m band was a lousy 8dB. Well, the VP2E is a monoband antenna built for 20m, so the choke’s performance on 80m is not a concern.

Performance on 20m is marginal, but acceptable, at -20dB. Since the current imbalance is likely to be small 20dB of common mode attenuation should be quite adequate. And, the new choke weighs in at 67 grams, nearly half the weight of the old choke.

It’s stealthy too

Apart from its gain, another benefit of the VP2E is that it only needs a short pole for support. 4.2 meters (13.8ft) is the recommended height. My crappie pole is about 0.2 meters short but modeling the antenna shows very little impact – you work with what you got!

Where to buy a VP2E

This a real hobbyist’s antenna; you can’t buy it, you gotta build it! A 100ft reel of thin wire – I use silicone coated 22ga wire – is all you need. Cut it to the lengths shown in the diagram above. Solder the wires to a piece of coax feedline and you are ready to get on the air. Choke? I think it helps but you can use the antenna without one.

A versatile short, strong, light support pole

The center of my VP2E is supported on a 13ft crappie pole which is very light for carrying into the field. It is very strong too. Well actually, I threw away the very top sections of two crappie poles and a made a strong, light single pole out of the lower sections. It mounts on a fiberglass driveway marker pushed into the ground.

The exact same pole also works for my 40m wire antenna. It’s a low dipole built for NVIS (Near Vertical Incidence Skywave). More details on that in a later post. Stay tuned.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#AmateurRadio #Antennas #OutdoorOps #Portable #POTA

What to do when the bands suck?

Solar cycle #25 has reached its peak and is on the decline again. We may still have a few years of good propagation left but I am planning ahead. During the last solar minimum I adapted by … forgive me … increasing my transmit power. This time around I hope to keep working QRP, but increase my effective radiated power through bigger, more efficient antennas.

The peak of cycle 25 was actually quite a disappointment. The Sun became hyper-active spewing a few too many Coronal Mass Ejections, flares and high energy particles our way. Hopefully, now that the peak has passed, we might even get some less unpredictable propagation before we hit solar minimum.

As solar activity declines the higher bands seem to be open less often, so my personal focus is on 20m, 30m and 40m. Those bands are open throughout the solar cycle – except during solar storms of course. At least once per week I venture onto 80m for a CW rag chew with friends, but that is at the home QTH. When operating out in the woods 20m, 30m and 40m are my goto bands.

The sign should also warn that bears don’t react well to posing for “selfies”

On the subject of “out in the woods” (my happy place), our local black bear population has awoken from its winter slumber and has been seen roaming in people places in my local town.

Bears are not usually a problem, they avoid human contact, but in the spring they are hungry and some of them associate people with food. Female bears with cubs can be very protective of their young which makes them potentially dangerous.

Antenna solutions for challenging conditions

One simple rule should be all that is necessary for getting a signal to propagate when the ionosphere is in combat with an angry Sun – or even when the Sun is dormant. Wire in the air = signal in the air. That is when it is probably a good idea to leave those very short, inductively loaded whips at home and start buying reels of wire and poles.

When I look back at what has worked in the past, the picture becomes very clear. Some of my small collection of QRP radios support only 20m, 30m and 40m. The 20m and 30m bands usually favor longer distance contacts, while 40m is better at shorter range. Out of these three bands I use 20m the most and, during the bottom of the solar cycle, 40m is my most used band. I don’t get on 30m very often; it is a WARC band and some operators dislike “contest-like” activity such as POTA on the WARC bands. No sense creating friction.

Best option for 20m?

This may be a bit of generalization, but a half-wave antenna launches more signal in the air than a quarter-wave. All half-wave antennas are not created equal. For example the very popular End-Fed Half-Wave requires a very carefully engineered matching device. Improperly engineered, one-size-fits-all, high ratio transformers often have very low efficiency.

A 5/8 wave vertical antenna may be even better in some circumstances – for example when the base of the antenna and all the radials are raised above ground. But 5/8 of a wavelength is a bit of a tall order – on 20m that’s 41 feet of antenna waving in the wind. Raise it above ground and you may have to attach a flashing red light at the top.

There is an even better solution. How about a 20m wire antenna that is low to the ground, is slightly directional and offers over 3dBi gain? Ham Radio Outside the Box explored this antenna three years ago; it is called the VP2E. Although VP2E sounds like a callsign (and it actually is a valid callsign) it is an abbreviation for Vertically Polarized 2-Element. It requires no tuner – and the VP2E is one full wavelength long.

VP2E antenna

I had great success with my VP2E before I stopped using it. It fell out of favor because of just one thing. Proponents of the VP2E claim that no baluns, ununs or feedline chokes are required. Perhaps, in theory, if the currents on either side of the feedpoint are balanced that could be true. In practise, even a small imbalance in the currents can lead to feedline radiation. To prevent this I added a current choke at the feedpoint.

Now this is where a problem arose. The feedpoint is not supported, so a choke hanging from the feedpoint pulls the wire down creating significant sag in the wire. The original choke that was used was made from 3 feet (~1m) of RG-316 coax looped three times through four snap-on ferrites; it weighed 126 grams.

VP2E ready to deploy, showing new lighter air-core current choke

The world’s worst 80m Common Mode Current Choke!

When I decided to resurrect the VP2E I wondered whether I could improve the choke to decrease its weight. I chose to get rid of the heavy ferrites and build an air-core coil choke. I found about 9 feet of RG-174 coax in my junque drawer. I also found an old pill container made of plastic so light it almost defies gravity. After winding the entire length of the RG-174 around the super light plastic former I hooked it up to my NanoVNA to measure its effectiveness.

I ran a scan from 3 to 30 MHz and noted the attenuation across the HF bands. On the 10m band the choke is exceptionally effective with a common mode attenuation exceeding 30dB. On the other end of the scale, the common mode attenuation on the 80m band was a lousy 8dB. Well, the VP2E is a monoband antenna built for 20m, so the choke’s performance on 80m is not a concern.

Performance on 20m is marginal, but acceptable, at -20dB. Since the current imbalance is likely to be small 20dB of common mode attenuation should be quite adequate. And, the new choke weighs in at 67 grams, nearly half the weight of the old choke.

It’s stealthy too

Apart from its gain, another benefit of the VP2E is that it only needs a short pole for support. 4.2 meters (13.8ft) is the recommended height. My crappie pole is about 0.2 meters short but modeling the antenna shows very little impact – you work with what you got!

Where to buy a VP2E

This a real hobbyist’s antenna; you can’t buy it, you gotta build it! A 100ft reel of thin wire – I use silicone coated 22ga wire – is all you need. Cut it to the lengths shown in the diagram above. Solder the wires to a piece of coax feedline and you are ready to get on the air. Choke? I think it helps but you can use the antenna without one.

A versatile short, strong, light support pole

The center of my VP2E is supported on a 13ft crappie pole which is very light for carrying into the field. It is very strong too. Well actually, I threw away the very top sections of two crappie poles and a made a strong, light single pole out of the lower sections. It mounts on a fiberglass driveway marker pushed into the ground.

The exact same pole also works for my 40m wire antenna. It’s a low dipole built for NVIS (Near Vertical Incidence Skywave). More details on that in a later post. Stay tuned.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#AmateurRadio #Antennas #OutdoorOps #Portable #POTA

An alternative mini-GTU design by Tim KQ4TQ

As I mentioned in the last post on Ham Radio Outside the Box, I received a surprise package in the mail from Tim KQ4TQ in Georgia. Tim sent me his build of a mini Ground Tuning Unit (GTU) that is simpler in design than the one I built. Tim’s design is a single inductor of 3 microhenries wound on a T82-6 toroid, in series with a 10-355pF polyvaricon. The polyvaricon used in my original Mini-GTU had a maximum capacitance of only 160pF (I extracted it from a charity store AM/FM radio).

The KQ4TQ GTU deployed with a linear-loaded radiating element and a tuned linear-loaded counterpoise

Tim’s GTU was quickly deployed out in the Ham Radio Outside the Box antenna test range (my backyard in Owen Sound, Ontario) for a full evaluation. Tim warned that tuning is very sharp and a steady hand is needed to get the best setting. My aging hands are definitely not as steady as they used to be but I found it was actually quite easy to tune.

The original Mini GTU versus the KQ4TQ GTU

The original Mini GTU recently described here on Ham Radio Outside the Box has 4 inductors, each with a shorting switch, in series with a polyvaricon. The purpose of the switches is to enable binary selection of inductance between 0.5 and 15.5 microhenries. By experiment I had discovered that easiest tuning is obtained when the inductance is low (and, of course, higher inductance introduces ohmic loss). So the objective was to binary select an inductance, starting at the lowest value (0.5uH), adjust the capacitance by rotating the polyvaricon knob and measuring the effect on the antenna’s SWR. Then, if an acceptable SWR is not obtained, add more inductance and measure again. In practise it was discovered that a value of 2 or 3 microhenries works for most of the bands tried. By contrast Tim’s GTU, with its single inductance of 3uH simplifies the tuning procedure. Actually, either design works equally well although the original Mini GTU with 4 inductors can also be deployed as an L-match with precision inductance selection.

I reluctantly felt the need to repackage Tim’s GTU in order to implement a couple of design enhancements. When I nervously advised Tim of what I had done he graciously accepted the ideas. Here are the changes:

Repackaged KQ4TQ GTU with modifications

The original enclosure (see picture earlier in this post) required an external BNC to binding post adapter which looked clumsy. My first mod was to build Tim’s GTU into a small plastic box from the “River in Brazil” company. An LED and sensor circuit was included to give a visual indication of the best setting of the GTU.

I chose a high brightness LED since the device will often be used in bright sunshine. We do actually get bright sunshine during the brief interval between snow storms that we call “summer” here in Ontario. As I write this my home air-conditioning is actually running for the first time – but we will back to heating again in a couple of days.

A quick reminder about the function of a GTU. A GTU is a ground tuner, it’s purpose is to tune a compromise counterpoise to increase its current flow. Increasing the current flow in the counterpoise allows increased current to flow in the radiator portion of the antenna.

Why use a compromise counterpoise? It is sometimes necessary when setting up in a very restricted space location.

Repackaged KQ4TQ GTU interior

Here is where I went “outside the box” in my thinking. It might have been logical to place the current sensor in the ground circuit. But the end objective is to improve current flow in the radiator, so why not just place the current sensor in the radiating element path? In fact, that is what I did. If you look at the internal picture of the repackaged GTU you will see a wire passing through the inductor (red winding), connecting the binding post at the left end (where the radiator wire connects) to the BNC at the right hand end.

Two small circuit boards are visible. The one on the left contains the high brightness LED, recycled from an old defunct SLA battery box. The other small board contains a Germanium diode, RF bypass capacitor and current limit resistor for the LED. The toroid with the red coil turns is an FT82-43; it forms a 10:1 transformer used to sense the level of current flowing in the radiator path which is then displayed by the LED.

So does it work?

This is that rubber hits the road moment. Appropriate since I just had the winter tires taken off my truck. Those tires, dual-range 4-wheel drive and an economical yet powerful V8 engine got me out of more than one deep snow drift last winter. But, anyway, back to the topic in hand, does it work?

Mike W4AEE recently commented: “why are you using a capacitive coupling plate on top of lossy soil? I don’t understand why you would want to put this huge amount of loss in the antenna system. You’re forcing exchange currents between the vertical element ground system to try to flow through a high resistance that’s in series with the circuit. A single counterpoise wire thrown out on the ground would be better than that.”

Mike has a valid point. But, of course, the objective was not to engineer a perfect antenna the Physics Department would endorse. The original design called for a hiking antenna that can be rapidly deployed in a small clearing in the woods. There are many locations I venture into where it simply isn’t possible to lay out an efficient set of radials. A capacitance plate on the ground is indeed a compromise – as was revealed in a recent post here when I rejected the magic carpet ground plane idea as being inefficient. I tried alternative grounds. Here are a couple of them:

First up was a small hand cart I built specifically for ham use. There is a DC path all the way through the aluminum tubing to the steel mesh platform at the bottom. The mesh platform is a capacitive plate for use with a GTU.

At the top you can see the linear-loaded 20m band radiating element made from commercial 450 ohm window line. Did the LED glow when RF was applied? Yes sir and the measured SWR was 1.3:1. That’s good isn’t it? No, I’ll explain in a minute.

Next up was a 22ft long steel wire marker fence along the side of my driveway. The 3ft high fence was built as a guide when snow piles up in the winter. It didn’t work too well the last couple of winters when it disappeared beneath the snow! Just about the same RF result was obtained as with the hand cart.

Heck, I made plenty QRP CW contacts so why wasn’t I happy with the magic carpet or these ideas? The answer is very simple and is contained in the popular saying “SWR makes you stupid”. Yes, the SWR was well under 1.5:1 … BUT … even with a tested resonant linear-loaded radiating element, the overall antenna including the tuned ground circuit, was not resonant. The best impedance I could obtain was 42-j14.8 ohms. A resonant antenna is purely resistive, i.e. there is no reactive component – ideally 50+j0 ohms. Resonance results in the maximum energy transfer between the transceiver and the antenna.

LESSON LEARNED: A Ground Tuning Unit can transform a high impedance ground to a low impedance that is acceptable to a transceiver. But a transceiver cannot discriminate between a low SWR and a purely resistive load. Low SWR does not necessarily imply resonance.

Just a cotton pickin’ New York minute …

Of course an antenna doesn’t have to be resonant to radiate well – it can be adjusted to resonance by means of a “tuner” (technically an impedance matching unit). So, I added a tuner – I used my “Old Barebones” ham-made Z-match, located at the antenna end of my coax cable. That worked. It brought the antenna system into resonance, even with just a few feet of wire thrown on the ground and tuned by a GTU.

Two is too many, one is good

You heard the old saying “two is one, one is none”. Well it doesn’t apply here. Having two boxes dangling from the antenna is ungood. One box is the GTU and the other is a tuner – one too many. My next project will be to combine those two functions into a single small box. Tim KQ4TQ tried to tell me that already; I should have listened.

We’re getting close to ham hiking heaven; stay tuned.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#AmateurRadio #Antennas #Counterpoise #Ground #OutdoorOps

An alternative mini-GTU design by Tim KQ4TQ

As I mentioned in the last post on Ham Radio Outside the Box, I received a surprise package in the mail from Tim KQ4TQ in Georgia. Tim sent me his build of a mini Ground Tuning Unit (GTU) that is simpler in design than the one I built. Tim’s design is a single inductor of 3 microhenries wound on a T82-6 toroid, in series with a 10-355pF polyvaricon. The polyvaricon used in my original Mini-GTU had a maximum capacitance of only 160pF (I extracted it from a charity store AM/FM radio).

The KQ4TQ GTU deployed with a linear-loaded radiating element and a tuned linear-loaded counterpoise

Tim’s GTU was quickly deployed out in the Ham Radio Outside the Box antenna test range (my backyard in Owen Sound, Ontario) for a full evaluation. Tim warned that tuning is very sharp and a steady hand is needed to get the best setting. My aging hands are definitely not as steady as they used to be but I found it was actually quite easy to tune.

The original Mini GTU versus the KQ4TQ GTU

The original Mini GTU recently described here on Ham Radio Outside the Box has 4 inductors, each with a shorting switch, in series with a polyvaricon. The purpose of the switches is to enable binary selection of inductance between 0.5 and 15.5 microhenries. By experiment I had discovered that easiest tuning is obtained when the inductance is low (and, of course, higher inductance introduces ohmic loss). So the objective was to binary select an inductance, starting at the lowest value (0.5uH), adjust the capacitance by rotating the polyvaricon knob and measuring the effect on the antenna’s SWR. Then, if an acceptable SWR is not obtained, add more inductance and measure again. In practise it was discovered that a value of 2 or 3 microhenries works for most of the bands tried. By contrast Tim’s GTU, with its single inductance of 3uH simplifies the tuning procedure. Actually, either design works equally well although the original Mini GTU with 4 inductors can also be deployed as an L-match with precision inductance selection.

I reluctantly felt the need to repackage Tim’s GTU in order to implement a couple of design enhancements. When I nervously advised Tim of what I had done he graciously accepted the ideas. Here are the changes:

Repackaged KQ4TQ GTU with modifications

The original enclosure (see picture earlier in this post) required an external BNC to binding post adapter which looked clumsy. My first mod was to build Tim’s GTU into a small plastic box from the “River in Brazil” company. An LED and sensor circuit was included to give a visual indication of the best setting of the GTU.

I chose a high brightness LED since the device will often be used in bright sunshine. We do actually get bright sunshine during the brief interval between snow storms that we call “summer” here in Ontario. As I write this my home air-conditioning is actually running for the first time – but we will back to heating again in a couple of days.

A quick reminder about the function of a GTU. A GTU is a ground tuner, it’s purpose is to tune a compromise counterpoise to increase its current flow. Increasing the current flow in the counterpoise allows increased current to flow in the radiator portion of the antenna.

Why use a compromise counterpoise? It is sometimes necessary when setting up in a very restricted space location.

Repackaged KQ4TQ GTU interior

Here is where I went “outside the box” in my thinking. It might have been logical to place the current sensor in the ground circuit. But the end objective is to improve current flow in the radiator, so why not just place the current sensor in the radiating element path? In fact, that is what I did. If you look at the internal picture of the repackaged GTU you will see a wire passing through the inductor (red winding), connecting the binding post at the left end (where the radiator wire connects) to the BNC at the right hand end.

Two small circuit boards are visible. The one on the left contains the high brightness LED, recycled from an old defunct SLA battery box. The other small board contains a Germanium diode, RF bypass capacitor and current limit resistor for the LED. The toroid with the red coil turns is an FT82-43; it forms a 10:1 transformer used to sense the level of current flowing in the radiator path which is then displayed by the LED.

So does it work?

This is that rubber hits the road moment. Appropriate since I just had the winter tires taken off my truck. Those tires, dual-range 4-wheel drive and an economical yet powerful V8 engine got me out of more than one deep snow drift last winter. But, anyway, back to the topic in hand, does it work?

Mike W4AEE recently commented: “why are you using a capacitive coupling plate on top of lossy soil? I don’t understand why you would want to put this huge amount of loss in the antenna system. You’re forcing exchange currents between the vertical element ground system to try to flow through a high resistance that’s in series with the circuit. A single counterpoise wire thrown out on the ground would be better than that.”

Mike has a valid point. But, of course, the objective was not to engineer a perfect antenna the Physics Department would endorse. The original design called for a hiking antenna that can be rapidly deployed in a small clearing in the woods. There are many locations I venture into where it simply isn’t possible to lay out an efficient set of radials. A capacitance plate on the ground is indeed a compromise – as was revealed in a recent post here when I rejected the magic carpet ground plane idea as being inefficient. I tried alternative grounds. Here are a couple of them:

First up was a small hand cart I built specifically for ham use. There is a DC path all the way through the aluminum tubing to the steel mesh platform at the bottom. The mesh platform is a capacitive plate for use with a GTU.

At the top you can see the linear-loaded 20m band radiating element made from commercial 450 ohm window line. Did the LED glow when RF was applied? Yes sir and the measured SWR was 1.3:1. That’s good isn’t it? No, I’ll explain in a minute.

Next up was a 22ft long steel wire marker fence along the side of my driveway. The 3ft high fence was built as a guide when snow piles up in the winter. It didn’t work too well the last couple of winters when it disappeared beneath the snow! Just about the same RF result was obtained as with the hand cart.

Heck, I made plenty QRP CW contacts so why wasn’t I happy with the magic carpet or these ideas? The answer is very simple and is contained in the popular saying “SWR makes you stupid”. Yes, the SWR was well under 1.5:1 … BUT … even with a tested resonant linear-loaded radiating element, the overall antenna including the tuned ground circuit, was not resonant. The best impedance I could obtain was 42-j14.8 ohms. A resonant antenna is purely resistive, i.e. there is no reactive component – ideally 50+j0 ohms. Resonance results in the maximum energy transfer between the transceiver and the antenna.

LESSON LEARNED: A Ground Tuning Unit can transform a high impedance ground to a low impedance that is acceptable to a transceiver. But a transceiver cannot discriminate between a low SWR and a purely resistive load. Low SWR does not necessarily imply resonance.

Just a cotton pickin’ New York minute …

Of course an antenna doesn’t have to be resonant to radiate well – it can be adjusted to resonance by means of a “tuner” (technically an impedance matching unit). So, I added a tuner – I used my “Old Barebones” ham-made Z-match, located at the antenna end of my coax cable. That worked. It brought the antenna system into resonance, even with just a few feet of wire thrown on the ground and tuned by a GTU.

Two is too many, one is good

You heard the old saying “two is one, one is none”. Well it doesn’t apply here. Having two boxes dangling from the antenna is ungood. One box is the GTU and the other is a tuner – one too many. My next project will be to combine those two functions into a single small box. Tim KQ4TQ tried to tell me that already; I should have listened.

We’re getting close to ham hiking heaven; stay tuned.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#AmateurRadio #Antennas #Counterpoise #Ground #OutdoorOps

An alternative mini-GTU design by Tim KQ4TQ

As I mentioned in the last post on Ham Radio Outside the Box, I received a surprise package in the mail from Tim KQ4TQ in Georgia. Tim sent me his build of a mini Ground Tuning Unit (GTU) that is simpler in design than the one I built. Tim’s design is a single inductor of 3 microhenries wound on a T82-6 toroid, in series with a 10-355pF polyvaricon. The polyvaricon used in my original Mini-GTU had a maximum capacitance of only 160pF (I extracted it from a charity store AM/FM radio).

The KQ4TQ GTU deployed with a linear-loaded radiating element and a tuned linear-loaded counterpoise

Tim’s GTU was quickly deployed out in the Ham Radio Outside the Box antenna test range (my backyard in Owen Sound, Ontario) for a full evaluation. Tim warned that tuning is very sharp and a steady hand is needed to get the best setting. My aging hands are definitely not as steady as they used to be but I found it was actually quite easy to tune.

The original Mini GTU versus the KQ4TQ GTU

The original Mini GTU recently described here on Ham Radio Outside the Box has 4 inductors, each with a shorting switch, in series with a polyvaricon. The purpose of the switches is to enable binary selection of inductance between 0.5 and 15.5 microhenries. By experiment I had discovered that easiest tuning is obtained when the inductance is low (and, of course, higher inductance introduces ohmic loss). So the objective was to binary select an inductance, starting at the lowest value (0.5uH), adjust the capacitance by rotating the polyvaricon knob and measuring the effect on the antenna’s SWR. Then, if an acceptable SWR is not obtained, add more inductance and measure again. In practise it was discovered that a value of 2 or 3 microhenries works for most of the bands tried. By contrast Tim’s GTU, with its single inductance of 3uH simplifies the tuning procedure. Actually, either design works equally well although the original Mini GTU with 4 inductors can also be deployed as an L-match with precision inductance selection.

I reluctantly felt the need to repackage Tim’s GTU in order to implement a couple of design enhancements. When I nervously advised Tim of what I had done he graciously accepted the ideas. Here are the changes:

Repackaged KQ4TQ GTU with modifications

The original enclosure (see picture earlier in this post) required an external BNC to binding post adapter which looked clumsy. My first mod was to build Tim’s GTU into a small plastic box from the “River in Brazil” company. An LED and sensor circuit was included to give a visual indication of the best setting of the GTU.

I chose a high brightness LED since the device will often be used in bright sunshine. We do actually get bright sunshine during the brief interval between snow storms that we call “summer” here in Ontario. As I write this my home air-conditioning is actually running for the first time – but we will back to heating again in a couple of days.

A quick reminder about the function of a GTU. A GTU is a ground tuner, it’s purpose is to tune a compromise counterpoise to increase its current flow. Increasing the current flow in the counterpoise allows increased current to flow in the radiator portion of the antenna.

Why use a compromise counterpoise? It is sometimes necessary when setting up in a very restricted space location.

Repackaged KQ4TQ GTU interior

Here is where I went “outside the box” in my thinking. It might have been logical to place the current sensor in the ground circuit. But the end objective is to improve current flow in the radiator, so why not just place the current sensor in the radiating element path? In fact, that is what I did. If you look at the internal picture of the repackaged GTU you will see a wire passing through the inductor (red winding), connecting the binding post at the left end (where the radiator wire connects) to the BNC at the right hand end.

Two small circuit boards are visible. The one on the left contains the high brightness LED, recycled from an old defunct SLA battery box. The other small board contains a Germanium diode, RF bypass capacitor and current limit resistor for the LED. The toroid with the red coil turns is an FT82-43; it forms a 10:1 transformer used to sense the level of current flowing in the radiator path which is then displayed by the LED.

So does it work?

This is that rubber hits the road moment. Appropriate since I just had the winter tires taken off my truck. Those tires, dual-range 4-wheel drive and an economical yet powerful V8 engine got me out of more than one deep snow drift last winter. But, anyway, back to the topic in hand, does it work?

Mike W4AEE recently commented: “why are you using a capacitive coupling plate on top of lossy soil? I don’t understand why you would want to put this huge amount of loss in the antenna system. You’re forcing exchange currents between the vertical element ground system to try to flow through a high resistance that’s in series with the circuit. A single counterpoise wire thrown out on the ground would be better than that.”

Mike has a valid point. But, of course, the objective was not to engineer a perfect antenna the Physics Department would endorse. The original design called for a hiking antenna that can be rapidly deployed in a small clearing in the woods. There are many locations I venture into where it simply isn’t possible to lay out an efficient set of radials. A capacitance plate on the ground is indeed a compromise – as was revealed in a recent post here when I rejected the magic carpet ground plane idea as being inefficient. I tried alternative grounds. Here are a couple of them:

First up was a small hand cart I built specifically for ham use. There is a DC path all the way through the aluminum tubing to the steel mesh platform at the bottom. The mesh platform is a capacitive plate for use with a GTU.

At the top you can see the linear-loaded 20m band radiating element made from commercial 450 ohm window line. Did the LED glow when RF was applied? Yes sir and the measured SWR was 1.3:1. That’s good isn’t it? No, I’ll explain in a minute.

Next up was a 22ft long steel wire marker fence along the side of my driveway. The 3ft high fence was built as a guide when snow piles up in the winter. It didn’t work too well the last couple of winters when it disappeared beneath the snow! Just about the same RF result was obtained as with the hand cart.

Heck, I made plenty QRP CW contacts so why wasn’t I happy with the magic carpet or these ideas? The answer is very simple and is contained in the popular saying “SWR makes you stupid”. Yes, the SWR was well under 1.5:1 … BUT … even with a tested resonant linear-loaded radiating element, the overall antenna including the tuned ground circuit, was not resonant. The best impedance I could obtain was 42-j14.8 ohms. A resonant antenna is purely resistive, i.e. there is no reactive component – ideally 50+j0 ohms. Resonance results in the maximum energy transfer between the transceiver and the antenna.

LESSON LEARNED: A Ground Tuning Unit can transform a high impedance ground to a low impedance that is acceptable to a transceiver. But a transceiver cannot discriminate between a low SWR and a purely resistive load. Low SWR does not necessarily imply resonance.

Just a cotton pickin’ New York minute …

Of course an antenna doesn’t have to be resonant to radiate well – it can be adjusted to resonance by means of a “tuner” (technically an impedance matching unit). So, I added a tuner – I used my “Old Barebones” ham-made Z-match, located at the antenna end of my coax cable. That worked. It brought the antenna system into resonance, even with just a few feet of wire thrown on the ground and tuned by a GTU.

Two is too many, one is good

You heard the old saying “two is one, one is none”. Well it doesn’t apply here. Having two boxes dangling from the antenna is ungood. One box is the GTU and the other is a tuner – one too many. My next project will be to combine those two functions into a single small box. Tim KQ4TQ tried to tell me that already; I should have listened.

We’re getting close to ham hiking heaven; stay tuned.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#AmateurRadio #Antennas #Counterpoise #Ground #OutdoorOps

An alternative mini-GTU design by Tim KQ4TQ

As I mentioned in the last post on Ham Radio Outside the Box, I received a surprise package in the mail from Tim KQ4TQ in Georgia. Tim sent me his build of a mini Ground Tuning Unit (GTU) that is simpler in design than the one I built. Tim’s design is a single inductor of 3 microhenries wound on a T82-6 toroid, in series with a 10-355pF polyvaricon. The polyvaricon used in my original Mini-GTU had a maximum capacitance of only 160pF (I extracted it from a charity store AM/FM radio).

The KQ4TQ GTU deployed with a linear-loaded radiating element and a tuned linear-loaded counterpoise

Tim’s GTU was quickly deployed out in the Ham Radio Outside the Box antenna test range (my backyard in Owen Sound, Ontario) for a full evaluation. Tim warned that tuning is very sharp and a steady hand is needed to get the best setting. My aging hands are definitely not as steady as they used to be but I found it was actually quite easy to tune.

The original Mini GTU versus the KQ4TQ GTU

The original Mini GTU recently described here on Ham Radio Outside the Box has 4 inductors, each with a shorting switch, in series with a polyvaricon. The purpose of the switches is to enable binary selection of inductance between 0.5 and 15.5 microhenries. By experiment I had discovered that easiest tuning is obtained when the inductance is low (and, of course, higher inductance introduces ohmic loss). So the objective was to binary select an inductance, starting at the lowest value (0.5uH), adjust the capacitance by rotating the polyvaricon knob and measuring the effect on the antenna’s SWR. Then, if an acceptable SWR is not obtained, add more inductance and measure again. In practise it was discovered that a value of 2 or 3 microhenries works for most of the bands tried. By contrast Tim’s GTU, with its single inductance of 3uH simplifies the tuning procedure. Actually, either design works equally well although the original Mini GTU with 4 inductors can also be deployed as an L-match with precision inductance selection.

I reluctantly felt the need to repackage Tim’s GTU in order to implement a couple of design enhancements. When I nervously advised Tim of what I had done he graciously accepted the ideas. Here are the changes:

Repackaged KQ4TQ GTU with modifications

The original enclosure (see picture earlier in this post) required an external BNC to binding post adapter which looked clumsy. My first mod was to build Tim’s GTU into a small plastic box from the “River in Brazil” company. An LED and sensor circuit was included to give a visual indication of the best setting of the GTU.

I chose a high brightness LED since the device will often be used in bright sunshine. We do actually get bright sunshine during the brief interval between snow storms that we call “summer” here in Ontario. As I write this my home air-conditioning is actually running for the first time – but we will back to heating again in a couple of days.

A quick reminder about the function of a GTU. A GTU is a ground tuner, it’s purpose is to tune a compromise counterpoise to increase its current flow. Increasing the current flow in the counterpoise allows increased current to flow in the radiator portion of the antenna.

Why use a compromise counterpoise? It is sometimes necessary when setting up in a very restricted space location.

Repackaged KQ4TQ GTU interior

Here is where I went “outside the box” in my thinking. It might have been logical to place the current sensor in the ground circuit. But the end objective is to improve current flow in the radiator, so why not just place the current sensor in the radiating element path? In fact, that is what I did. If you look at the internal picture of the repackaged GTU you will see a wire passing through the inductor (red winding), connecting the binding post at the left end (where the radiator wire connects) to the BNC at the right hand end.

Two small circuit boards are visible. The one on the left contains the high brightness LED, recycled from an old defunct SLA battery box. The other small board contains a Germanium diode, RF bypass capacitor and current limit resistor for the LED. The toroid with the red coil turns is an FT82-43; it forms a 10:1 transformer used to sense the level of current flowing in the radiator path which is then displayed by the LED.

So does it work?

This is that rubber hits the road moment. Appropriate since I just had the winter tires taken off my truck. Those tires, dual-range 4-wheel drive and an economical yet powerful V8 engine got me out of more than one deep snow drift last winter. But, anyway, back to the topic in hand, does it work?

Mike W4AEE recently commented: “why are you using a capacitive coupling plate on top of lossy soil? I don’t understand why you would want to put this huge amount of loss in the antenna system. You’re forcing exchange currents between the vertical element ground system to try to flow through a high resistance that’s in series with the circuit. A single counterpoise wire thrown out on the ground would be better than that.”

Mike has a valid point. But, of course, the objective was not to engineer a perfect antenna the Physics Department would endorse. The original design called for a hiking antenna that can be rapidly deployed in a small clearing in the woods. There are many locations I venture into where it simply isn’t possible to lay out an efficient set of radials. A capacitance plate on the ground is indeed a compromise – as was revealed in a recent post here when I rejected the magic carpet ground plane idea as being inefficient. I tried alternative grounds. Here are a couple of them:

First up was a small hand cart I built specifically for ham use. There is a DC path all the way through the aluminum tubing to the steel mesh platform at the bottom. The mesh platform is a capacitive plate for use with a GTU.

At the top you can see the linear-loaded 20m band radiating element made from commercial 450 ohm window line. Did the LED glow when RF was applied? Yes sir and the measured SWR was 1.3:1. That’s good isn’t it? No, I’ll explain in a minute.

Next up was a 22ft long steel wire marker fence along the side of my driveway. The 3ft high fence was built as a guide when snow piles up in the winter. It didn’t work too well the last couple of winters when it disappeared beneath the snow! Just about the same RF result was obtained as with the hand cart.

Heck, I made plenty QRP CW contacts so why wasn’t I happy with the magic carpet or these ideas? The answer is very simple and is contained in the popular saying “SWR makes you stupid”. Yes, the SWR was well under 1.5:1 … BUT … even with a tested resonant linear-loaded radiating element, the overall antenna including the tuned ground circuit, was not resonant. The best impedance I could obtain was 42-j14.8 ohms. A resonant antenna is purely resistive, i.e. there is no reactive component – ideally 50+j0 ohms. Resonance results in the maximum energy transfer between the transceiver and the antenna.

LESSON LEARNED: A Ground Tuning Unit can transform a high impedance ground to a low impedance that is acceptable to a transceiver. But a transceiver cannot discriminate between a low SWR and a purely resistive load. Low SWR does not necessarily imply resonance.

Just a cotton pickin’ New York minute …

Of course an antenna doesn’t have to be resonant to radiate well – it can be adjusted to resonance by means of a “tuner” (technically an impedance matching unit). So, I added a tuner – I used my “Old Barebones” ham-made Z-match, located at the antenna end of my coax cable. That worked. It brought the antenna system into resonance, even with just a few feet of wire thrown on the ground and tuned by a GTU.

Two is too many, one is good

You heard the old saying “two is one, one is none”. Well it doesn’t apply here. Having two boxes dangling from the antenna is ungood. One box is the GTU and the other is a tuner – one too many. My next project will be to combine those two functions into a single small box. Tim KQ4TQ tried to tell me that already; I should have listened.

We’re getting close to ham hiking heaven; stay tuned.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#AmateurRadio #Antennas #Counterpoise #Ground #OutdoorOps

The magic carpet ground plane is grounded, but the GTU keeps flying.

Ham Radio Outside the Box receives quite a lot of email every week from readers with questions, comments and suggestions. One such email came about as a result of an article in the outstanding newsletter from the Surrey Amateur Radio Club called the Communicator. The editor of the Communicator is Canadian Amateur Radio Hall of Fame member John Schouten VE7TI. John approached me some time ago to see if I would be willing to be a regular contributor to the Communicator. I readily accepted and I am indebted to the Communicator for publishing a regular series of posts from this blog to the Communicator’s international readers in over 150 countries.

A recent article in the Communicator triggered an email from Guy VA7GI and that sparked a chain of correspondence beginning with a request for more details of the Ground Tuning Unit featured in recent posts on this blog. Then Guy suggested I conduct a test to compare a GTU combined with a Faraday cloth (“Magic Carpet”) capacitance plate on the ground, to a regular set of radials. That sounded like an interesting challenge so I set up a test antenna out in the backyard to find out how the two compared.

An old, bruised and battered, long retired MFJ 20m telescopic whip was mounted on a tripod and promptly caught a gust of wind which sent it crashing to the ground. Fortunately it just missed a large birch tree and landed softly on the grass. More bruises! It was re-erected and secured with cordage to prevent any further falls. Then a 17ft raised wire counterpoise was attached via an RF current sensor.

RF current sensor and RigExpert antenna analyzer pictured in another experiment

RF was applied to the antenna by a RigExpert antenna analyzer and a strong deflection was observed on the current sensor. The meter reading was set to mid-scale by adjusting the instrument’s sensitivity control. Now it would be possible to determine whether the current through the GTU/Faraday cloth was higher or lower than the current passing into the wire counterpoise.

Next step; the counterpoise wire was disconnected and the GTU was attached with a wire to the Faraday cloth on the ground. Once again RF was applied and the relative current was observed on the meter. NB: the current sensor does not measure absolute current values; its job is only to compare relative values. I expected the GTU/Faraday cloth ground arrangement to compare favorably with the wire counterpoise, after all I had made multiple contacts with this arrangement. But, to my surprise, the ground current was now lower than the wire counterpoise result.

Linear-loaded monopole with Magic Carpet held down with rocks to withstand the wind coming across 100 miles of Lake Huron!

My “magic carpet”, made of Faraday cloth ordered from the company named after a Brazilian River, was a purchase made for the purpose of experimentation. To its credit, it served its purpose, but I had some reservations about its suitability for field portable radio operations. The first time I laid it out on my backyard lawn was during a day of bright sunshine. I was dazzled by the sunlight reflected from its surface. Those reflections were probably observable from Earth orbit and certainly detracted from the stealth of a field installation. Stealth was restored with a coat of dark green, non-reflective spray paint.

The outdoor environment challenged the installation with another trial – wind. The wind had already laid the antenna whip down, now it blew under and around my one square meter of Faraday cloth making it difficult to secure it to the ground. No spring gusts were going to defeat this scientific experiment, so reinforced grommets were attached to each corner of the cloth which was then tightly and securely held in its place with tent stakes.

After a few deployments the edges of the Faraday cloth began to fray and were secured with Gorilla tape, but the non-reflective paint was beginning to crack where the magic carpet was folded between uses. And then it failed the current test!

The image shows the Ham Radio Outside the Box Linear-Loaded Monopole with Magic Carpet deployed along the shore of Lake Huron during a recent OOTA activation. No, that’s not a typo, OOTA is “Out On The Air”. Check it out online.

So is the Magic Carpet idea dead in the water? Guy VA7GI had another suggestion: “I have two friends with ham rigs on sailboats. They each use a backstay with insulators as a vertical antenna. You’d think with a saltwater ground they have the perfect ground plane. But it’s not that simple. They use folded copper wire in the bilge for a ground. They don’t want to drill a hole in the hull or dangle a wire near the prop. Alternatively, they could use Faraday cloth and your GTU. I bet that’d make a huge difference, especially for trans-ocean sailing.”

So magic carpet rides on the wayward wind are grounded, at least for now. My home QTH is surrounded by the Great Lakes so maybe the the idea of a “floating ground” is worth exploring?

The magic carpet is grounded, but not the GTU!

In a later email Guy VA7GI said: “My intuition is that most verticals have compromised radials, placed wherever convenient or possible. Perhaps all vertical antennas would benefit from a GTU.” On the first point Guy may be right. There is a lot of discussion online about the placement of radials. On the ground, or raised above ground? Positioned to direct an antenna’s radiation in a particular direction? Or spread evenly to enhance the widest ground coupling? And, of course, how many radials?

Guy’s second point: “Perhaps all vertical antennas would benefit from a GTU” got me thinking. Could that idea be of benefit in implementing a limited footprint, vertical quarter-wave field antenna? How does a Ground Tuning Unit work? It resonates a capacitive ground path which increases the current in “the other half” of an antenna. That is an idea worth exploring, so a further test was conducted.

A new, improved linear-loaded monopole was erected. The ham-made ladder line previously used has been replaced with a slightly longer (11.5ft) section of 450 ohm commercial window line. When erected as a quarter-wave vertical worked against a GTU tuned counterpoise, the length is not critical within certain restraints because the electrical length of “the other half” is adjustable by the GTU. A shorter radiating element with a longer counterpoise works, as does a longer radiator with a shorter counterpoise. The antenna impedance changes, but unless taken to extremes, it remains close enough to keep the SWR presented to the transceiver within acceptable limits.

This new test was designed to discover whether a GTU could resonate short raised radials sufficiently well to make the antenna an efficient radiator. This arrangement would get a passing grade if the current through the GTU/short radials combination matched the current passing through full-length radials. It didn’t work out too well with the Faraday cloth so I was skeptical about the outcome of this test.

My 11.5ft linear-loaded monopole was paired with two raised radials each 16.5ft long but with links at 11ft and 13ft. Once again, the current was monitored with the full-length radials and set to mid-scale on the meter as a benchmark. Then the radial links were opened at the 11ft point and the GTU was adjusted for maximum current. This time there was a different outcome. The current matched the result obtained with the full-length radials. So Guy – you were right!

Further tests will be conducted with even shorter raised radials to determine whether the current can be maintained with a minimum possible ground footprint. The objective is to design a simple pedestrian portable antenna that can be deployed in a limited space environment such as small clearings in the woods.

The man from the future

Another project remains on the slate and that is the idea of using a helically wound radiating element as suggested by a reader in New Zealand (the “man from the future” – New Zealand is 16 hours ahead of the Eastern Time Zone). Ham Radio Outside the Box will cover that in a later post.

Meanwhile a package arrived in the mail

I was very pleased to receive a package in the mail from Tim KQ4TQ. Tim sent me a GTU he had built himself and asked me to evaluate it. Tim’s GTU is a slightly different build to my own and I will certainly evaluate it fully and report back here soon. Thanks Tim!

Thanks to all Ham Radio Outside the Box subscribers

I put a lot of work into preparing posts for this blog, but it is a labor of love. I seek no financial return, nor will I accept any; this is a hobby not a business. My motivation is to stimulate discussion and learn from experiments and the feedback of other hams. So it was gratifying when WordPress informed me recently that Ham Radio Outside the Box has now surpassed the modest level of 1000 subscribers. Knowing there is a steadily growing interest in the content generated here makes all the work worthwhile. Thank you!

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#AmateurRadio #Antennas #Counterpoise #Ground #OutdoorOps

The magic carpet ground plane is grounded, but the GTU keeps flying.

Ham Radio Outside the Box receives quite a lot of email every week from readers with questions, comments and suggestions. One such email came about as a result of an article in the outstanding newsletter from the Surrey Amateur Radio Club called the Communicator. The editor of the Communicator is Canadian Amateur Radio Hall of Fame member John Schouten VE7TI. John approached me some time ago to see if I would be willing to be a regular contributor to the Communicator. I readily accepted and I am indebted to the Communicator for publishing a regular series of posts from this blog to the Communicator’s international readers in over 150 countries.

A recent article in the Communicator triggered an email from Guy VA7GI and that sparked a chain of correspondence beginning with a request for more details of the Ground Tuning Unit featured in recent posts on this blog. Then Guy suggested I conduct a test to compare a GTU combined with a Faraday cloth (“Magic Carpet”) capacitance plate on the ground, to a regular set of radials. That sounded like an interesting challenge so I set up a test antenna out in the backyard to find out how the two compared.

An old, bruised and battered, long retired MFJ 20m telescopic whip was mounted on a tripod and promptly caught a gust of wind which sent it crashing to the ground. Fortunately it just missed a large birch tree and landed softly on the grass. More bruises! It was re-erected and secured with cordage to prevent any further falls. Then a 17ft raised wire counterpoise was attached via an RF current sensor.

RF current sensor and RigExpert antenna analyzer pictured in another experiment

RF was applied to the antenna by a RigExpert antenna analyzer and a strong deflection was observed on the current sensor. The meter reading was set to mid-scale by adjusting the instrument’s sensitivity control. Now it would be possible to determine whether the current through the GTU/Faraday cloth was higher or lower than the current passing into the wire counterpoise.

Next step; the counterpoise wire was disconnected and the GTU was attached with a wire to the Faraday cloth on the ground. Once again RF was applied and the relative current was observed on the meter. NB: the current sensor does not measure absolute current values; its job is only to compare relative values. I expected the GTU/Faraday cloth ground arrangement to compare favorably with the wire counterpoise, after all I had made multiple contacts with this arrangement. But, to my surprise, the ground current was now lower than the wire counterpoise result.

Linear-loaded monopole with Magic Carpet held down with rocks to withstand the wind coming across 100 miles of Lake Huron!

My “magic carpet”, made of Faraday cloth ordered from the company named after a Brazilian River, was a purchase made for the purpose of experimentation. To its credit, it served its purpose, but I had some reservations about its suitability for field portable radio operations. The first time I laid it out on my backyard lawn was during a day of bright sunshine. I was dazzled by the sunlight reflected from its surface. Those reflections were probably observable from Earth orbit and certainly detracted from the stealth of a field installation. Stealth was restored with a coat of dark green, non-reflective spray paint.

The outdoor environment challenged the installation with another trial – wind. The wind had already laid the antenna whip down, now it blew under and around my one square meter of Faraday cloth making it difficult to secure it to the ground. No spring gusts were going to defeat this scientific experiment, so reinforced grommets were attached to each corner of the cloth which was then tightly and securely held in its place with tent stakes.

After a few deployments the edges of the Faraday cloth began to fray and were secured with Gorilla tape, but the non-reflective paint was beginning to crack where the magic carpet was folded between uses. And then it failed the current test!

The image shows the Ham Radio Outside the Box Linear-Loaded Monopole with Magic Carpet deployed along the shore of Lake Huron during a recent OOTA activation. No, that’s not a typo, OOTA is “Out On The Air”. Check it out online.

So is the Magic Carpet idea dead in the water? Guy VA7GI had another suggestion: “I have two friends with ham rigs on sailboats. They each use a backstay with insulators as a vertical antenna. You’d think with a saltwater ground they have the perfect ground plane. But it’s not that simple. They use folded copper wire in the bilge for a ground. They don’t want to drill a hole in the hull or dangle a wire near the prop. Alternatively, they could use Faraday cloth and your GTU. I bet that’d make a huge difference, especially for trans-ocean sailing.”

So magic carpet rides on the wayward wind are grounded, at least for now. My home QTH is surrounded by the Great Lakes so maybe the the idea of a “floating ground” is worth exploring?

The magic carpet is grounded, but not the GTU!

In a later email Guy VA7GI said: “My intuition is that most verticals have compromised radials, placed wherever convenient or possible. Perhaps all vertical antennas would benefit from a GTU.” On the first point Guy may be right. There is a lot of discussion online about the placement of radials. On the ground, or raised above ground? Positioned to direct an antenna’s radiation in a particular direction? Or spread evenly to enhance the widest ground coupling? And, of course, how many radials?

Guy’s second point: “Perhaps all vertical antennas would benefit from a GTU” got me thinking. Could that idea be of benefit in implementing a limited footprint, vertical quarter-wave field antenna? How does a Ground Tuning Unit work? It resonates a capacitive ground path which increases the current in “the other half” of an antenna. That is an idea worth exploring, so a further test was conducted.

A new, improved linear-loaded monopole was erected. The ham-made ladder line previously used has been replaced with a slightly longer (11.5ft) section of 450 ohm commercial window line. When erected as a quarter-wave vertical worked against a GTU tuned counterpoise, the length is not critical within certain restraints because the electrical length of “the other half” is adjustable by the GTU. A shorter radiating element with a longer counterpoise works, as does a longer radiator with a shorter counterpoise. The antenna impedance changes, but unless taken to extremes, it remains close enough to keep the SWR presented to the transceiver within acceptable limits.

This new test was designed to discover whether a GTU could resonate short raised radials sufficiently well to make the antenna an efficient radiator. This arrangement would get a passing grade if the current through the GTU/short radials combination matched the current passing through full-length radials. It didn’t work out too well with the Faraday cloth so I was skeptical about the outcome of this test.

My 11.5ft linear-loaded monopole was paired with two raised radials each 16.5ft long but with links at 11ft and 13ft. Once again, the current was monitored with the full-length radials and set to mid-scale on the meter as a benchmark. Then the radial links were opened at the 11ft point and the GTU was adjusted for maximum current. This time there was a different outcome. The current matched the result obtained with the full-length radials. So Guy – you were right!

Further tests will be conducted with even shorter raised radials to determine whether the current can be maintained with a minimum possible ground footprint. The objective is to design a simple pedestrian portable antenna that can be deployed in a limited space environment such as small clearings in the woods.

The man from the future

Another project remains on the slate and that is the idea of using a helically wound radiating element as suggested by a reader in New Zealand (the “man from the future” – New Zealand is 16 hours ahead of the Eastern Time Zone). Ham Radio Outside the Box will cover that in a later post.

Meanwhile a package arrived in the mail

I was very pleased to receive a package in the mail from Tim KQ4TQ. Tim sent me a GTU he had built himself and asked me to evaluate it. Tim’s GTU is a slightly different build to my own and I will certainly evaluate it fully and report back here soon. Thanks Tim!

Thanks to all Ham Radio Outside the Box subscribers

I put a lot of work into preparing posts for this blog, but it is a labor of love. I seek no financial return, nor will I accept any; this is a hobby not a business. My motivation is to stimulate discussion and learn from experiments and the feedback of other hams. So it was gratifying when WordPress informed me recently that Ham Radio Outside the Box has now surpassed the modest level of 1000 subscribers. Knowing there is a steadily growing interest in the content generated here makes all the work worthwhile. Thank you!

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#AmateurRadio #Antennas #Counterpoise #Ground #OutdoorOps

The magic carpet ground plane is grounded, but the GTU keeps flying.

Ham Radio Outside the Box receives quite a lot of email every week from readers with questions, comments and suggestions. One such email came about as a result of an article in the outstanding newsletter from the Surrey Amateur Radio Club called the Communicator. The editor of the Communicator is Canadian Amateur Radio Hall of Fame member John Schouten VE7TI. John approached me some time ago to see if I would be willing to be a regular contributor to the Communicator. I readily accepted and I am indebted to the Communicator for publishing a regular series of posts from this blog to the Communicator’s international readers in over 150 countries.

A recent article in the Communicator triggered an email from Guy VA7GI and that sparked a chain of correspondence beginning with a request for more details of the Ground Tuning Unit featured in recent posts on this blog. Then Guy suggested I conduct a test to compare a GTU combined with a Faraday cloth (“Magic Carpet”) capacitance plate on the ground, to a regular set of radials. That sounded like an interesting challenge so I set up a test antenna out in the backyard to find out how the two compared.

An old, bruised and battered, long retired MFJ 20m telescopic whip was mounted on a tripod and promptly caught a gust of wind which sent it crashing to the ground. Fortunately it just missed a large birch tree and landed softly on the grass. More bruises! It was re-erected and secured with cordage to prevent any further falls. Then a 17ft raised wire counterpoise was attached via an RF current sensor.

RF current sensor and RigExpert antenna analyzer pictured in another experiment

RF was applied to the antenna by a RigExpert antenna analyzer and a strong deflection was observed on the current sensor. The meter reading was set to mid-scale by adjusting the instrument’s sensitivity control. Now it would be possible to determine whether the current through the GTU/Faraday cloth was higher or lower than the current passing into the wire counterpoise.

Next step; the counterpoise wire was disconnected and the GTU was attached with a wire to the Faraday cloth on the ground. Once again RF was applied and the relative current was observed on the meter. NB: the current sensor does not measure absolute current values; its job is only to compare relative values. I expected the GTU/Faraday cloth ground arrangement to compare favorably with the wire counterpoise, after all I had made multiple contacts with this arrangement. But, to my surprise, the ground current was now lower than the wire counterpoise result.

Linear-loaded monopole with Magic Carpet held down with rocks to withstand the wind coming across 100 miles of Lake Huron!

My “magic carpet”, made of Faraday cloth ordered from the company named after a Brazilian River, was a purchase made for the purpose of experimentation. To its credit, it served its purpose, but I had some reservations about its suitability for field portable radio operations. The first time I laid it out on my backyard lawn was during a day of bright sunshine. I was dazzled by the sunlight reflected from its surface. Those reflections were probably observable from Earth orbit and certainly detracted from the stealth of a field installation. Stealth was restored with a coat of dark green, non-reflective spray paint.

The outdoor environment challenged the installation with another trial – wind. The wind had already laid the antenna whip down, now it blew under and around my one square meter of Faraday cloth making it difficult to secure it to the ground. No spring gusts were going to defeat this scientific experiment, so reinforced grommets were attached to each corner of the cloth which was then tightly and securely held in its place with tent stakes.

After a few deployments the edges of the Faraday cloth began to fray and were secured with Gorilla tape, but the non-reflective paint was beginning to crack where the magic carpet was folded between uses. And then it failed the current test!

The image shows the Ham Radio Outside the Box Linear-Loaded Monopole with Magic Carpet deployed along the shore of Lake Huron during a recent OOTA activation. No, that’s not a typo, OOTA is “Out On The Air”. Check it out online.

So is the Magic Carpet idea dead in the water? Guy VA7GI had another suggestion: “I have two friends with ham rigs on sailboats. They each use a backstay with insulators as a vertical antenna. You’d think with a saltwater ground they have the perfect ground plane. But it’s not that simple. They use folded copper wire in the bilge for a ground. They don’t want to drill a hole in the hull or dangle a wire near the prop. Alternatively, they could use Faraday cloth and your GTU. I bet that’d make a huge difference, especially for trans-ocean sailing.”

So magic carpet rides on the wayward wind are grounded, at least for now. My home QTH is surrounded by the Great Lakes so maybe the the idea of a “floating ground” is worth exploring?

The magic carpet is grounded, but not the GTU!

In a later email Guy VA7GI said: “My intuition is that most verticals have compromised radials, placed wherever convenient or possible. Perhaps all vertical antennas would benefit from a GTU.” On the first point Guy may be right. There is a lot of discussion online about the placement of radials. On the ground, or raised above ground? Positioned to direct an antenna’s radiation in a particular direction? Or spread evenly to enhance the widest ground coupling? And, of course, how many radials?

Guy’s second point: “Perhaps all vertical antennas would benefit from a GTU” got me thinking. Could that idea be of benefit in implementing a limited footprint, vertical quarter-wave field antenna? How does a Ground Tuning Unit work? It resonates a capacitive ground path which increases the current in “the other half” of an antenna. That is an idea worth exploring, so a further test was conducted.

A new, improved linear-loaded monopole was erected. The ham-made ladder line previously used has been replaced with a slightly longer (11.5ft) section of 450 ohm commercial window line. When erected as a quarter-wave vertical worked against a GTU tuned counterpoise, the length is not critical within certain restraints because the electrical length of “the other half” is adjustable by the GTU. A shorter radiating element with a longer counterpoise works, as does a longer radiator with a shorter counterpoise. The antenna impedance changes, but unless taken to extremes, it remains close enough to keep the SWR presented to the transceiver within acceptable limits.

This new test was designed to discover whether a GTU could resonate short raised radials sufficiently well to make the antenna an efficient radiator. This arrangement would get a passing grade if the current through the GTU/short radials combination matched the current passing through full-length radials. It didn’t work out too well with the Faraday cloth so I was skeptical about the outcome of this test.

My 11.5ft linear-loaded monopole was paired with two raised radials each 16.5ft long but with links at 11ft and 13ft. Once again, the current was monitored with the full-length radials and set to mid-scale on the meter as a benchmark. Then the radial links were opened at the 11ft point and the GTU was adjusted for maximum current. This time there was a different outcome. The current matched the result obtained with the full-length radials. So Guy – you were right!

Further tests will be conducted with even shorter raised radials to determine whether the current can be maintained with a minimum possible ground footprint. The objective is to design a simple pedestrian portable antenna that can be deployed in a limited space environment such as small clearings in the woods.

The man from the future

Another project remains on the slate and that is the idea of using a helically wound radiating element as suggested by a reader in New Zealand (the “man from the future” – New Zealand is 16 hours ahead of the Eastern Time Zone). Ham Radio Outside the Box will cover that in a later post.

Meanwhile a package arrived in the mail

I was very pleased to receive a package in the mail from Tim KQ4TQ. Tim sent me a GTU he had built himself and asked me to evaluate it. Tim’s GTU is a slightly different build to my own and I will certainly evaluate it fully and report back here soon. Thanks Tim!

Thanks to all Ham Radio Outside the Box subscribers

I put a lot of work into preparing posts for this blog, but it is a labor of love. I seek no financial return, nor will I accept any; this is a hobby not a business. My motivation is to stimulate discussion and learn from experiments and the feedback of other hams. So it was gratifying when WordPress informed me recently that Ham Radio Outside the Box has now surpassed the modest level of 1000 subscribers. Knowing there is a steadily growing interest in the content generated here makes all the work worthwhile. Thank you!

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#AmateurRadio #Antennas #Counterpoise #Ground #OutdoorOps

The magic carpet ground plane is grounded, but the GTU keeps flying.

Ham Radio Outside the Box receives quite a lot of email every week from readers with questions, comments and suggestions. One such email came about as a result of an article in the outstanding newsletter from the Surrey Amateur Radio Club called the Communicator. The editor of the Communicator is Canadian Amateur Radio Hall of Fame member John Schouten VE7TI. John approached me some time ago to see if I would be willing to be a regular contributor to the Communicator. I readily accepted and I am indebted to the Communicator for publishing a regular series of posts from this blog to the Communicator’s international readers in over 150 countries.

A recent article in the Communicator triggered an email from Guy VA7GI and that sparked a chain of correspondence beginning with a request for more details of the Ground Tuning Unit featured in recent posts on this blog. Then Guy suggested I conduct a test to compare a GTU combined with a Faraday cloth (“Magic Carpet”) capacitance plate on the ground, to a regular set of radials. That sounded like an interesting challenge so I set up a test antenna out in the backyard to find out how the two compared.

An old, bruised and battered, long retired MFJ 20m telescopic whip was mounted on a tripod and promptly caught a gust of wind which sent it crashing to the ground. Fortunately it just missed a large birch tree and landed softly on the grass. More bruises! It was re-erected and secured with cordage to prevent any further falls. Then a 17ft raised wire counterpoise was attached via an RF current sensor.

RF current sensor and RigExpert antenna analyzer pictured in another experiment

RF was applied to the antenna by a RigExpert antenna analyzer and a strong deflection was observed on the current sensor. The meter reading was set to mid-scale by adjusting the instrument’s sensitivity control. Now it would be possible to determine whether the current through the GTU/Faraday cloth was higher or lower than the current passing into the wire counterpoise.

Next step; the counterpoise wire was disconnected and the GTU was attached with a wire to the Faraday cloth on the ground. Once again RF was applied and the relative current was observed on the meter. NB: the current sensor does not measure absolute current values; its job is only to compare relative values. I expected the GTU/Faraday cloth ground arrangement to compare favorably with the wire counterpoise, after all I had made multiple contacts with this arrangement. But, to my surprise, the ground current was now lower than the wire counterpoise result.

Linear-loaded monopole with Magic Carpet held down with rocks to withstand the wind coming across 100 miles of Lake Huron!

My “magic carpet”, made of Faraday cloth ordered from the company named after a Brazilian River, was a purchase made for the purpose of experimentation. To its credit, it served its purpose, but I had some reservations about its suitability for field portable radio operations. The first time I laid it out on my backyard lawn was during a day of bright sunshine. I was dazzled by the sunlight reflected from its surface. Those reflections were probably observable from Earth orbit and certainly detracted from the stealth of a field installation. Stealth was restored with a coat of dark green, non-reflective spray paint.

The outdoor environment challenged the installation with another trial – wind. The wind had already laid the antenna whip down, now it blew under and around my one square meter of Faraday cloth making it difficult to secure it to the ground. No spring gusts were going to defeat this scientific experiment, so reinforced grommets were attached to each corner of the cloth which was then tightly and securely held in its place with tent stakes.

After a few deployments the edges of the Faraday cloth began to fray and were secured with Gorilla tape, but the non-reflective paint was beginning to crack where the magic carpet was folded between uses. And then it failed the current test!

The image shows the Ham Radio Outside the Box Linear-Loaded Monopole with Magic Carpet deployed along the shore of Lake Huron during a recent OOTA activation. No, that’s not a typo, OOTA is “Out On The Air”. Check it out online.

So is the Magic Carpet idea dead in the water? Guy VA7GI had another suggestion: “I have two friends with ham rigs on sailboats. They each use a backstay with insulators as a vertical antenna. You’d think with a saltwater ground they have the perfect ground plane. But it’s not that simple. They use folded copper wire in the bilge for a ground. They don’t want to drill a hole in the hull or dangle a wire near the prop. Alternatively, they could use Faraday cloth and your GTU. I bet that’d make a huge difference, especially for trans-ocean sailing.”

So magic carpet rides on the wayward wind are grounded, at least for now. My home QTH is surrounded by the Great Lakes so maybe the the idea of a “floating ground” is worth exploring?

The magic carpet is grounded, but not the GTU!

In a later email Guy VA7GI said: “My intuition is that most verticals have compromised radials, placed wherever convenient or possible. Perhaps all vertical antennas would benefit from a GTU.” On the first point Guy may be right. There is a lot of discussion online about the placement of radials. On the ground, or raised above ground? Positioned to direct an antenna’s radiation in a particular direction? Or spread evenly to enhance the widest ground coupling? And, of course, how many radials?

Guy’s second point: “Perhaps all vertical antennas would benefit from a GTU” got me thinking. Could that idea be of benefit in implementing a limited footprint, vertical quarter-wave field antenna? How does a Ground Tuning Unit work? It resonates a capacitive ground path which increases the current in “the other half” of an antenna. That is an idea worth exploring, so a further test was conducted.

A new, improved linear-loaded monopole was erected. The ham-made ladder line previously used has been replaced with a slightly longer (11.5ft) section of 450 ohm commercial window line. When erected as a quarter-wave vertical worked against a GTU tuned counterpoise, the length is not critical within certain restraints because the electrical length of “the other half” is adjustable by the GTU. A shorter radiating element with a longer counterpoise works, as does a longer radiator with a shorter counterpoise. The antenna impedance changes, but unless taken to extremes, it remains close enough to keep the SWR presented to the transceiver within acceptable limits.

This new test was designed to discover whether a GTU could resonate short raised radials sufficiently well to make the antenna an efficient radiator. This arrangement would get a passing grade if the current through the GTU/short radials combination matched the current passing through full-length radials. It didn’t work out too well with the Faraday cloth so I was skeptical about the outcome of this test.

My 11.5ft linear-loaded monopole was paired with two raised radials each 16.5ft long but with links at 11ft and 13ft. Once again, the current was monitored with the full-length radials and set to mid-scale on the meter as a benchmark. Then the radial links were opened at the 11ft point and the GTU was adjusted for maximum current. This time there was a different outcome. The current matched the result obtained with the full-length radials. So Guy – you were right!

Further tests will be conducted with even shorter raised radials to determine whether the current can be maintained with a minimum possible ground footprint. The objective is to design a simple pedestrian portable antenna that can be deployed in a limited space environment such as small clearings in the woods.

The man from the future

Another project remains on the slate and that is the idea of using a helically wound radiating element as suggested by a reader in New Zealand (the “man from the future” – New Zealand is 16 hours ahead of the Eastern Time Zone). Ham Radio Outside the Box will cover that in a later post.

Meanwhile a package arrived in the mail

I was very pleased to receive a package in the mail from Tim KQ4TQ. Tim sent me a GTU he had built himself and asked me to evaluate it. Tim’s GTU is a slightly different build to my own and I will certainly evaluate it fully and report back here soon. Thanks Tim!

Thanks to all Ham Radio Outside the Box subscribers

I put a lot of work into preparing posts for this blog, but it is a labor of love. I seek no financial return, nor will I accept any; this is a hobby not a business. My motivation is to stimulate discussion and learn from experiments and the feedback of other hams. So it was gratifying when WordPress informed me recently that Ham Radio Outside the Box has now surpassed the modest level of 1000 subscribers. Knowing there is a steadily growing interest in the content generated here makes all the work worthwhile. Thank you!

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#AmateurRadio #Antennas #Counterpoise #Ground #OutdoorOps

Shacks On The Air anyone?

There has been an explosion of “On The Air” programs lately. I think SOTA (Summits On The Air) may have kick started the trend. To my mind SOTA remains the purest and best of them all. Although there are many drive-up summits, many others require strenuous effort to reach the “activation zone” on foot. Unfortunately, here in southern Ontario, we have very few high elevation points. Some peaks over 500 meters (1600 feet) can be found, but without the required “prominence” to qualify for the SOTA program. I visited one of the few SOTA peaks in my area once. It was hard to see why it was classified as a peak. The activation zone was a section of flat road. SOTA forbids activating from inside a vehicle so all an activator has to do is park at the side of the road, get out and play radio at the roadside. Piff!

Woof Woof

Some friends and I enjoy a leisurely CW rag chew once a week. We have one thing in common – mourning the loss of once-loved canine friends. At the end of every session we sign off with “woof”. So when I think of the World Wide Flora and Fauna program (WWFF) my mind interprets that as “Woof-Woof”.

WWFF is very popular in Europe and to a lesser extent in North America. If you hear a station signing off with “73 44” you will know it is a WWFF QSO in which 44 contacts are required to activate a park. Some of the “Woof-Woof” program rules are quite strict. If you are operating from inside multiple parks you can only claim one for your activation, unlike POTA where one set of contacts can qualify for multiple activations in the right location. SSB participants in xOTA programs greatly outnumber CW operators so, although getting 44 contacts by phone may be relatively easy, getting the same QSO count by CW is sometimes more challenging. Fortunately, QSO counts for operating sessions are cumulative so you can return to the same park as many times as is necessary to validate an activation.

POTA

From humble beginnings the Parks On The Air program has exploded to become a formidable force in amateur radio. Every day there are multiple parks being activated around the world. The required QSO count to qualify an activation is 10. Ten is much more attainable than 44, but even so, there are days when even that number is a challenge. For those of us who like to handicap our operations by using QRP, a day of poor propagation conditions can bury our signals in the noise. I have participated in POTA for the last few years and have had very few outings in which I experienced a “busted activation”, i.e. made fewer than 10 contacts. Some operators avoid busted activations by making HT to HT VHF simplex contacts with other hams in their group. If you think that’s a good idea there is a way to make every POTA session an effortless success regardless of propagation conditions.

In days gone by the local indigenous hunters would drive herds of buffalo over a cliff where young braves would finish the kill. The hunt provided food for a whole winter. During one hunt a young brave was crushed by a falling buffalo and suffered the injury that gave this Alberta park its name.

POTA was predicated on the idea that fewer rules makes for better participation. That’s a good premise and has worked well making POTA the “elephant outside the room”. On the downside, even the few rules that are in place are not enforced. When I made the suggestion that a Park to Park contact should mean a contact between two different parks, POTA management politely suggested I should forget about it and just enjoy my own operations.

I read one account of an “activation” completed within 100 feet (30m) of a park boundary. That is valid for trails, but not for actual parks. I know that particular park and it does not qualify for the 100 feet rule. Generally, an operator and all their equipment must be completely within a park’s boundary. But perhaps, if that rule doesn’t work for you, “forget about it” and enjoy yourself.

The Drive-Thru activation

Unlike SOTA, POTA does not forbid operating from inside a vehicle. This has led to something variously called “Parking Lots On The Air (PLOTA)” or “Drive-Thru” activations. Mea Culpa; I have been guilty of this several times but I try to avoid drive-thru activations except in winter. In winter, brave Canadians don’t even button up our Mackinaws until it gets to 100 below, and we stir our coffee with our thumbs. It is only out of respect for our radio equipment that we would even consider operating from inside the comfort of a vehicle when the howling wind is blowing the snow horizontally and the mercury in the thermometer is frozen solid.

Kakabeka Falls, northern Ontario, the “Niagara of the North”.
If you gotta moment during your PLOTA activation, step outta the car and take a look.

In summer many of us prefer to enjoy a hike or visit some of the spectacular scenery in our parks before or after a radio session. But for some diehard POTA activators, the name of the game is contacts – lots of ’em – then drive on to the next park where once again its eyes down, antennas up; no time to get out of the car. We each enjoy our hobby in our own way.

All the other OTAs

There are so many OTA programs these days it’s getting out of hand. How about TOTA? Did you think it means Towers On The Air? You are correct. But it also means Toilets On The Air. How about that; you can play radio while attending to your bodily functions. I know of one ham who takes his Handy-Talkie into the shower so he doesn’t miss any calls from his buddies; SHOTA anyone? TOTA also means Tiles On The Air. A Tile is a Maidenhead subsquare about 5km by 7km.

I am surprised nobody has thought of What 3 Words On The Air (W3WOTA?, WWWOTA?). W3W is a ridiculous (my opinion) method of dividing the world up into small squares each designated by three unique words. A lot of words are needed to identify all the world’s locations so some very rare and unusual words are employed. The English language is pronounced very differently around the world, and even within the United States. I met a very interesting fella who proudly came from “the South” once. He explained that the words “pin” and “pen” are pronounced exactly the same where he came from. Imagine trying to battle poor propagation conditions while interpreting a strange dialect relaying a rare and unusual word. When I posted on this topic some time ago I received a comment that W3W is universally accepted by emergency responders and we should just get used to it. Yay, let’s all get used to confusion and damn the torpedoes.

The spectacular Athabasca Glacier along Icefields Parkway, Alberta. Maybe worth stepping out of the car to take a look. It is possible to hike right up to the base of the glacier, or take a specially-equipped bus ride out on the ice.

Don’t laugh please

Try not to titter when I introduce the next OTA. It is called HEMA and stands for “Humps Excluding Marilyns”. I believe it is a European program but I haven’t come across it on this side of the Atlantic. My first reaction was to wonder why Marilyn’s humps were excluded. I am sure HEMA has attracted a lot of jokes but it is actually a serious program. A “hump” is a summit with at least a 100 meter prominence, while a “marilyn” is a summit with at least a 150 meter prominence. So a hump excluding marilyns is a summit with a prominence between 100 and 150 meters. Robert Ripley might have made a TV episode about this one.

I’m OOTA here

I have become involved with one of the new OTAs and have filed my first couple of logs. It is called “Out On The Air (OOTA)“. As “the seasons go round and round and the painted ponies go up and down” (Joni Mitchell) the carousel of time begins to take its toll and I have less energy than I used to have. Just a few winters ago I would strap on snowshoes and haul a sled full of radio equipment across the deep and crisp and even white landscape to do an outdoor winter activation. No more. Maybe less inclination to join the OTA rat race too. Now I am content to set up in the sunshine and enjoy just being outdoors with my radio, and maybe a newly built antenna. If I make a few contacts I am satisfied. The great thing about OOTA is that there is really only one rule – just get out of the shack and make at least one contact. That’s just fine with me. If you do a POTA or “Woof Woof” activation, or you activate a hump that wasn’t Marilyn’s that counts too. Softly, softly, catchee monkey; relax, breathe; soak up the summer sun; enjoy life, it doesn’t last forever.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#AmateurRadio #CW #OutdoorOps #POTA

Shacks On The Air anyone?

There has been an explosion of “On The Air” programs lately. I think SOTA (Summits On The Air) may have kick started the trend. To my mind SOTA remains the purest and best of them all. Although there are many drive-up summits, many others require strenuous effort to reach the “activation zone” on foot. Unfortunately, here in southern Ontario, we have very few high elevation points. Some peaks over 500 meters (1600 feet) can be found, but without the required “prominence” to qualify for the SOTA program. I visited one of the few SOTA peaks in my area once. It was hard to see why it was classified as a peak. The activation zone was a section of flat road. SOTA forbids activating from inside a vehicle so all an activator has to do is park at the side of the road, get out and play radio at the roadside. Piff!

Woof Woof

Some friends and I enjoy a leisurely CW rag chew once a week. We have one thing in common – mourning the loss of once-loved canine friends. At the end of every session we sign off with “woof”. So when I think of the World Wide Flora and Fauna program (WWFF) my mind interprets that as “Woof-Woof”.

WWFF is very popular in Europe and to a lesser extent in North America. If you hear a station signing off with “73 44” you will know it is a WWFF QSO in which 44 contacts are required to activate a park. Some of the “Woof-Woof” program rules are quite strict. If you are operating from inside multiple parks you can only claim one for your activation, unlike POTA where one set of contacts can qualify for multiple activations in the right location. SSB participants in xOTA programs greatly outnumber CW operators so, although getting 44 contacts by phone may be relatively easy, getting the same QSO count by CW is sometimes more challenging. Fortunately, QSO counts for operating sessions are cumulative so you can return to the same park as many times as is necessary to validate an activation.

POTA

From humble beginnings the Parks On The Air program has exploded to become a formidable force in amateur radio. Every day there are multiple parks being activated around the world. The required QSO count to qualify an activation is 10. Ten is much more attainable than 44, but even so, there are days when even that number is a challenge. For those of us who like to handicap our operations by using QRP, a day of poor propagation conditions can bury our signals in the noise. I have participated in POTA for the last few years and have had very few outings in which I experienced a “busted activation”, i.e. made fewer than 10 contacts. Some operators avoid busted activations by making HT to HT VHF simplex contacts with other hams in their group. If you think that’s a good idea there is a way to make every POTA session an effortless success regardless of propagation conditions.

In days gone by the local indigenous hunters would drive herds of buffalo over a cliff where young braves would finish the kill. The hunt provided food for a whole winter. During one hunt a young brave was crushed by a falling buffalo and suffered the injury that gave this Alberta park its name.

POTA was predicated on the idea that fewer rules makes for better participation. That’s a good premise and has worked well making POTA the “elephant outside the room”. On the downside, even the few rules that are in place are not enforced. When I made the suggestion that a Park to Park contact should mean a contact between two different parks, POTA management politely suggested I should forget about it and just enjoy my own operations.

I read one account of an “activation” completed within 100 feet (30m) of a park boundary. That is valid for trails, but not for actual parks. I know that particular park and it does not qualify for the 100 feet rule. Generally, an operator and all their equipment must be completely within a park’s boundary. But perhaps, if that rule doesn’t work for you, “forget about it” and enjoy yourself.

The Drive-Thru activation

Unlike SOTA, POTA does not forbid operating from inside a vehicle. This has led to something variously called “Parking Lots On The Air (PLOTA)” or “Drive-Thru” activations. Mea Culpa; I have been guilty of this several times but I try to avoid drive-thru activations except in winter. In winter, brave Canadians don’t even button up our Mackinaws until it gets to 100 below, and we stir our coffee with our thumbs. It is only out of respect for our radio equipment that we would even consider operating from inside the comfort of a vehicle when the howling wind is blowing the snow horizontally and the mercury in the thermometer is frozen solid.

Kakabeka Falls, northern Ontario, the “Niagara of the North”.
If you gotta moment during your PLOTA activation, step outta the car and take a look.

In summer many of us prefer to enjoy a hike or visit some of the spectacular scenery in our parks before or after a radio session. But for some diehard POTA activators, the name of the game is contacts – lots of ’em – then drive on to the next park where once again its eyes down, antennas up; no time to get out of the car. We each enjoy our hobby in our own way.

All the other OTAs

There are so many OTA programs these days it’s getting out of hand. How about TOTA? Did you think it means Towers On The Air? You are correct. But it also means Toilets On The Air. How about that; you can play radio while attending to your bodily functions. I know of one ham who takes his Handy-Talkie into the shower so he doesn’t miss any calls from his buddies; SHOTA anyone? TOTA also means Tiles On The Air. A Tile is a Maidenhead subsquare about 5km by 7km.

I am surprised nobody has thought of What 3 Words On The Air (W3WOTA?, WWWOTA?). W3W is a ridiculous (my opinion) method of dividing the world up into small squares each designated by three unique words. A lot of words are needed to identify all the world’s locations so some very rare and unusual words are employed. The English language is pronounced very differently around the world, and even within the United States. I met a very interesting fella who proudly came from “the South” once. He explained that the words “pin” and “pen” are pronounced exactly the same where he came from. Imagine trying to battle poor propagation conditions while interpreting a strange dialect relaying a rare and unusual word. When I posted on this topic some time ago I received a comment that W3W is universally accepted by emergency responders and we should just get used to it. Yay, let’s all get used to confusion and damn the torpedoes.

The spectacular Athabasca Glacier along Icefields Parkway, Alberta. Maybe worth stepping out of the car to take a look. It is possible to hike right up to the base of the glacier, or take a specially-equipped bus ride out on the ice.

Don’t laugh please

Try not to titter when I introduce the next OTA. It is called HEMA and stands for “Humps Excluding Marilyns”. I believe it is a European program but I haven’t come across it on this side of the Atlantic. My first reaction was to wonder why Marilyn’s humps were excluded. I am sure HEMA has attracted a lot of jokes but it is actually a serious program. A “hump” is a summit with at least a 100 meter prominence, while a “marilyn” is a summit with at least a 150 meter prominence. So a hump excluding marilyns is a summit with a prominence between 100 and 150 meters. Robert Ripley might have made a TV episode about this one.

I’m OOTA here

I have become involved with one of the new OTAs and have filed my first couple of logs. It is called “Out On The Air (OOTA)“. As “the seasons go round and round and the painted ponies go up and down” (Joni Mitchell) the carousel of time begins to take its toll and I have less energy than I used to have. Just a few winters ago I would strap on snowshoes and haul a sled full of radio equipment across the deep and crisp and even white landscape to do an outdoor winter activation. No more. Maybe less inclination to join the OTA rat race too. Now I am content to set up in the sunshine and enjoy just being outdoors with my radio, and maybe a newly built antenna. If I make a few contacts I am satisfied. The great thing about OOTA is that there is really only one rule – just get out of the shack and make at least one contact. That’s just fine with me. If you do a POTA or “Woof Woof” activation, or you activate a hump that wasn’t Marilyn’s that counts too. Softly, softly, catchee monkey; relax, breathe; soak up the summer sun; enjoy life, it doesn’t last forever.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#AmateurRadio #CW #OutdoorOps #POTA

Shacks On The Air anyone?

There has been an explosion of “On The Air” programs lately. I think SOTA (Summits On The Air) may have kick started the trend. To my mind SOTA remains the purest and best of them all. Although there are many drive-up summits, many others require strenuous effort to reach the “activation zone” on foot. Unfortunately, here in southern Ontario, we have very few high elevation points. Some peaks over 500 meters (1600 feet) can be found, but without the required “prominence” to qualify for the SOTA program. I visited one of the few SOTA peaks in my area once. It was hard to see why it was classified as a peak. The activation zone was a section of flat road. SOTA forbids activating from inside a vehicle so all an activator has to do is park at the side of the road, get out and play radio at the roadside. Piff!

Woof Woof

Some friends and I enjoy a leisurely CW rag chew once a week. We have one thing in common – mourning the loss of once-loved canine friends. At the end of every session we sign off with “woof”. So when I think of the World Wide Flora and Fauna program (WWFF) my mind interprets that as “Woof-Woof”.

WWFF is very popular in Europe and to a lesser extent in North America. If you hear a station signing off with “73 44” you will know it is a WWFF QSO in which 44 contacts are required to activate a park. Some of the “Woof-Woof” program rules are quite strict. If you are operating from inside multiple parks you can only claim one for your activation, unlike POTA where one set of contacts can qualify for multiple activations in the right location. SSB participants in xOTA programs greatly outnumber CW operators so, although getting 44 contacts by phone may be relatively easy, getting the same QSO count by CW is sometimes more challenging. Fortunately, QSO counts for operating sessions are cumulative so you can return to the same park as many times as is necessary to validate an activation.

POTA

From humble beginnings the Parks On The Air program has exploded to become a formidable force in amateur radio. Every day there are multiple parks being activated around the world. The required QSO count to qualify an activation is 10. Ten is much more attainable than 44, but even so, there are days when even that number is a challenge. For those of us who like to handicap our operations by using QRP, a day of poor propagation conditions can bury our signals in the noise. I have participated in POTA for the last few years and have had very few outings in which I experienced a “busted activation”, i.e. made fewer than 10 contacts. Some operators avoid busted activations by making HT to HT VHF simplex contacts with other hams in their group. If you think that’s a good idea there is a way to make every POTA session an effortless success regardless of propagation conditions.

In days gone by the local indigenous hunters would drive herds of buffalo over a cliff where young braves would finish the kill. The hunt provided food for a whole winter. During one hunt a young brave was crushed by a falling buffalo and suffered the injury that gave this Alberta park its name.

POTA was predicated on the idea that fewer rules makes for better participation. That’s a good premise and has worked well making POTA the “elephant outside the room”. On the downside, even the few rules that are in place are not enforced. When I made the suggestion that a Park to Park contact should mean a contact between two different parks, POTA management politely suggested I should forget about it and just enjoy my own operations.

I read one account of an “activation” completed within 100 feet (30m) of a park boundary. That is valid for trails, but not for actual parks. I know that particular park and it does not qualify for the 100 feet rule. Generally, an operator and all their equipment must be completely within a park’s boundary. But perhaps, if that rule doesn’t work for you, “forget about it” and enjoy yourself.

The Drive-Thru activation

Unlike SOTA, POTA does not forbid operating from inside a vehicle. This has led to something variously called “Parking Lots On The Air (PLOTA)” or “Drive-Thru” activations. Mea Culpa; I have been guilty of this several times but I try to avoid drive-thru activations except in winter. In winter, brave Canadians don’t even button up our Mackinaws until it gets to 100 below, and we stir our coffee with our thumbs. It is only out of respect for our radio equipment that we would even consider operating from inside the comfort of a vehicle when the howling wind is blowing the snow horizontally and the mercury in the thermometer is frozen solid.

Kakabeka Falls, northern Ontario, the “Niagara of the North”.
If you gotta moment during your PLOTA activation, step outta the car and take a look.

In summer many of us prefer to enjoy a hike or visit some of the spectacular scenery in our parks before or after a radio session. But for some diehard POTA activators, the name of the game is contacts – lots of ’em – then drive on to the next park where once again its eyes down, antennas up; no time to get out of the car. We each enjoy our hobby in our own way.

All the other OTAs

There are so many OTA programs these days it’s getting out of hand. How about TOTA? Did you think it means Towers On The Air? You are correct. But it also means Toilets On The Air. How about that; you can play radio while attending to your bodily functions. I know of one ham who takes his Handy-Talkie into the shower so he doesn’t miss any calls from his buddies; SHOTA anyone? TOTA also means Tiles On The Air. A Tile is a Maidenhead subsquare about 5km by 7km.

I am surprised nobody has thought of What 3 Words On The Air (W3WOTA?, WWWOTA?). W3W is a ridiculous (my opinion) method of dividing the world up into small squares each designated by three unique words. A lot of words are needed to identify all the world’s locations so some very rare and unusual words are employed. The English language is pronounced very differently around the world, and even within the United States. I met a very interesting fella who proudly came from “the South” once. He explained that the words “pin” and “pen” are pronounced exactly the same where he came from. Imagine trying to battle poor propagation conditions while interpreting a strange dialect relaying a rare and unusual word. When I posted on this topic some time ago I received a comment that W3W is universally accepted by emergency responders and we should just get used to it. Yay, let’s all get used to confusion and damn the torpedoes.

The spectacular Athabasca Glacier along Icefields Parkway, Alberta. Maybe worth stepping out of the car to take a look. It is possible to hike right up to the base of the glacier, or take a specially-equipped bus ride out on the ice.

Don’t laugh please

Try not to titter when I introduce the next OTA. It is called HEMA and stands for “Humps Excluding Marilyns”. I believe it is a European program but I haven’t come across it on this side of the Atlantic. My first reaction was to wonder why Marilyn’s humps were excluded. I am sure HEMA has attracted a lot of jokes but it is actually a serious program. A “hump” is a summit with at least a 100 meter prominence, while a “marilyn” is a summit with at least a 150 meter prominence. So a hump excluding marilyns is a summit with a prominence between 100 and 150 meters. Robert Ripley might have made a TV episode about this one.

I’m OOTA here

I have become involved with one of the new OTAs and have filed my first couple of logs. It is called “Out On The Air (OOTA)“. As “the seasons go round and round and the painted ponies go up and down” (Joni Mitchell) the carousel of time begins to take its toll and I have less energy than I used to have. Just a few winters ago I would strap on snowshoes and haul a sled full of radio equipment across the deep and crisp and even white landscape to do an outdoor winter activation. No more. Maybe less inclination to join the OTA rat race too. Now I am content to set up in the sunshine and enjoy just being outdoors with my radio, and maybe a newly built antenna. If I make a few contacts I am satisfied. The great thing about OOTA is that there is really only one rule – just get out of the shack and make at least one contact. That’s just fine with me. If you do a POTA or “Woof Woof” activation, or you activate a hump that wasn’t Marilyn’s that counts too. Softly, softly, catchee monkey; relax, breathe; soak up the summer sun; enjoy life, it doesn’t last forever.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#AmateurRadio #CW #OutdoorOps #POTA

Shacks On The Air anyone?

There has been an explosion of “On The Air” programs lately. I think SOTA (Summits On The Air) may have kick started the trend. To my mind SOTA remains the purest and best of them all. Although there are many drive-up summits, many others require strenuous effort to reach the “activation zone” on foot. Unfortunately, here in southern Ontario, we have very few high elevation points. Some peaks over 500 meters (1600 feet) can be found, but without the required “prominence” to qualify for the SOTA program. I visited one of the few SOTA peaks in my area once. It was hard to see why it was classified as a peak. The activation zone was a section of flat road. SOTA forbids activating from inside a vehicle so all an activator has to do is park at the side of the road, get out and play radio at the roadside. Piff!

Woof Woof

Some friends and I enjoy a leisurely CW rag chew once a week. We have one thing in common – mourning the loss of once-loved canine friends. At the end of every session we sign off with “woof”. So when I think of the World Wide Flora and Fauna program (WWFF) my mind interprets that as “Woof-Woof”.

WWFF is very popular in Europe and to a lesser extent in North America. If you hear a station signing off with “73 44” you will know it is a WWFF QSO in which 44 contacts are required to activate a park. Some of the “Woof-Woof” program rules are quite strict. If you are operating from inside multiple parks you can only claim one for your activation, unlike POTA where one set of contacts can qualify for multiple activations in the right location. SSB participants in xOTA programs greatly outnumber CW operators so, although getting 44 contacts by phone may be relatively easy, getting the same QSO count by CW is sometimes more challenging. Fortunately, QSO counts for operating sessions are cumulative so you can return to the same park as many times as is necessary to validate an activation.

POTA

From humble beginnings the Parks On The Air program has exploded to become a formidable force in amateur radio. Every day there are multiple parks being activated around the world. The required QSO count to qualify an activation is 10. Ten is much more attainable than 44, but even so, there are days when even that number is a challenge. For those of us who like to handicap our operations by using QRP, a day of poor propagation conditions can bury our signals in the noise. I have participated in POTA for the last few years and have had very few outings in which I experienced a “busted activation”, i.e. made fewer than 10 contacts. Some operators avoid busted activations by making HT to HT VHF simplex contacts with other hams in their group. If you think that’s a good idea there is a way to make every POTA session an effortless success regardless of propagation conditions.

In days gone by the local indigenous hunters would drive herds of buffalo over a cliff where young braves would finish the kill. The hunt provided food for a whole winter. During one hunt a young brave was crushed by a falling buffalo and suffered the injury that gave this Alberta park its name.

POTA was predicated on the idea that fewer rules makes for better participation. That’s a good premise and has worked well making POTA the “elephant outside the room”. On the downside, even the few rules that are in place are not enforced. When I made the suggestion that a Park to Park contact should mean a contact between two different parks, POTA management politely suggested I should forget about it and just enjoy my own operations.

I read one account of an “activation” completed within 100 feet (30m) of a park boundary. That is valid for trails, but not for actual parks. I know that particular park and it does not qualify for the 100 feet rule. Generally, an operator and all their equipment must be completely within a park’s boundary. But perhaps, if that rule doesn’t work for you, “forget about it” and enjoy yourself.

The Drive-Thru activation

Unlike SOTA, POTA does not forbid operating from inside a vehicle. This has led to something variously called “Parking Lots On The Air (PLOTA)” or “Drive-Thru” activations. Mea Culpa; I have been guilty of this several times but I try to avoid drive-thru activations except in winter. In winter, brave Canadians don’t even button up our Mackinaws until it gets to 100 below, and we stir our coffee with our thumbs. It is only out of respect for our radio equipment that we would even consider operating from inside the comfort of a vehicle when the howling wind is blowing the snow horizontally and the mercury in the thermometer is frozen solid.

Kakabeka Falls, northern Ontario, the “Niagara of the North”.
If you gotta moment during your PLOTA activation, step outta the car and take a look.

In summer many of us prefer to enjoy a hike or visit some of the spectacular scenery in our parks before or after a radio session. But for some diehard POTA activators, the name of the game is contacts – lots of ’em – then drive on to the next park where once again its eyes down, antennas up; no time to get out of the car. We each enjoy our hobby in our own way.

All the other OTAs

There are so many OTA programs these days it’s getting out of hand. How about TOTA? Did you think it means Towers On The Air? You are correct. But it also means Toilets On The Air. How about that; you can play radio while attending to your bodily functions. I know of one ham who takes his Handy-Talkie into the shower so he doesn’t miss any calls from his buddies; SHOTA anyone? TOTA also means Tiles On The Air. A Tile is a Maidenhead subsquare about 5km by 7km.

I am surprised nobody has thought of What 3 Words On The Air (W3WOTA?, WWWOTA?). W3W is a ridiculous (my opinion) method of dividing the world up into small squares each designated by three unique words. A lot of words are needed to identify all the world’s locations so some very rare and unusual words are employed. The English language is pronounced very differently around the world, and even within the United States. I met a very interesting fella who proudly came from “the South” once. He explained that the words “pin” and “pen” are pronounced exactly the same where he came from. Imagine trying to battle poor propagation conditions while interpreting a strange dialect relaying a rare and unusual word. When I posted on this topic some time ago I received a comment that W3W is universally accepted by emergency responders and we should just get used to it. Yay, let’s all get used to confusion and damn the torpedoes.

The spectacular Athabasca Glacier along Icefields Parkway, Alberta. Maybe worth stepping out of the car to take a look. It is possible to hike right up to the base of the glacier, or take a specially-equipped bus ride out on the ice.

Don’t laugh please

Try not to titter when I introduce the next OTA. It is called HEMA and stands for “Humps Excluding Marilyns”. I believe it is a European program but I haven’t come across it on this side of the Atlantic. My first reaction was to wonder why Marilyn’s humps were excluded. I am sure HEMA has attracted a lot of jokes but it is actually a serious program. A “hump” is a summit with at least a 100 meter prominence, while a “marilyn” is a summit with at least a 150 meter prominence. So a hump excluding marilyns is a summit with a prominence between 100 and 150 meters. Robert Ripley might have made a TV episode about this one.

I’m OOTA here

I have become involved with one of the new OTAs and have filed my first couple of logs. It is called “Out On The Air (OOTA)“. As “the seasons go round and round and the painted ponies go up and down” (Joni Mitchell) the carousel of time begins to take its toll and I have less energy than I used to have. Just a few winters ago I would strap on snowshoes and haul a sled full of radio equipment across the deep and crisp and even white landscape to do an outdoor winter activation. No more. Maybe less inclination to join the OTA rat race too. Now I am content to set up in the sunshine and enjoy just being outdoors with my radio, and maybe a newly built antenna. If I make a few contacts I am satisfied. The great thing about OOTA is that there is really only one rule – just get out of the shack and make at least one contact. That’s just fine with me. If you do a POTA or “Woof Woof” activation, or you activate a hump that wasn’t Marilyn’s that counts too. Softly, softly, catchee monkey; relax, breathe; soak up the summer sun; enjoy life, it doesn’t last forever.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#AmateurRadio #CW #OutdoorOps #POTA

A Mini Ground Tuning Unit and a magic carpet for portable ops

In the last couple of posts I discussed my quest for a simple portable antenna that could be rapidly deployed in a very limited space, for example in a small clearing while hiking through the woods. Such an antenna would have to be a short, yet efficient, vertical that occupies a very small footprint on the ground.

The first successful candidate is a Linear-Loaded Monopole which meets all the design criteria and has performed surprisingly well in initial field tests. Ham Radio Outside the Box has received another suggestion from a reader who lives in the future (I’ll explain in an upcoming post) for a helical antenna. We’ll be hitting the outback (out in the backyard) to experiment with that idea very shortly.

Meanwhile, another design criterion is that a hiking antenna should occupy a very small footprint on the ground. My local woodlands sit atop the Niagara Escarpment and are often very rocky – sometimes with wide and dangerous cracks in the bedrock. There is often nowhere to set up ground radials and limited options for raised radials, so an alternative arrangement for “the other half” of a vertical quarter-wave antenna is necessary.

The solution that has been discussed here on Ham Radio Outside the Box is to use a Ground Tuning Unit (GTU) coupled to a small capacitive plate on the ground. There is some spooky physics associated with how a GTU works which we’ll discuss later in this post. But don’t let that discourage you; the science of physics is full of mind-mending spooky stuff.

Introducing the Mini GTU

I built a GTU some years ago which has seen a lot of use. Unfortunately it is rather big for carrying on a hike through the woods. I needed a small, lightweight version for this new use case. The Mini GTU is a simple device as can be seen from the wiring diagram here:

The device comprises four inductances – 4, 2, 1 and 0.5 microhenries. Each inductor has a SPST switch that can be used to short circuit it and thereby bypass it from the inductance selection. This arrangement allows binary selection of inductance from 0.5 to 7.5 microhenries in 0.5 microhenry increments. For this application it was considered unnecessary to increase the inductance any further, but more inductance could be added by doubling the value of each added inductor.

The Mini GTU is connected to the shield side of the coax that connects the antenna to the radio. This is exactly where you would normally connect radials. The other end of the Mini GTU connects to a capacitive plate laid directly on the ground.

What? No ground current meter?

A GTU usually has a ground current meter in series with the current path. That is achieved by adding a sampling circuit – a small toroidal core inductor with a single secondary turn, a diode rectifier and meter. Again, unnecessary in this application because as the current through the GTU increases, so does the current in the radiating part of the antenna. This is indicated by observing the SWR indicator on the radio.

Construction of the Mini GTU

I built the device on a small piece of perfboard. The following two pictures show the layout of the components. As usual, my collection of T37-2 and T37-6 powdered iron cores were deployed. The smallest inductor (0.5uH) was wound on two stacked T37-6 cores. The 1uH and 2uH inductors were each wound on two stacked T37-2 cores. For the 4uH inductor I redeployed the six T37-2 binocular style cores I had used on the 2T2C inductor discussed in a recent post.

Why not just use one tapped inductor and a rotary switch?

That’s a good question. I could have wound a single 7.5 uH inductor with taps every 0.5 microhenries and used a rotary switch to select the appropriate inductance. But that would require good precision in locating the tap points since 0.5uH is a very small inductance that is more easily wound on a small core.

It is unnecessary to wind these smaller inductors to the precise values specified. Even using tiny T37 cores, a single turn can change the inductance quite a bit. I strove for a precision of about 10% which turned out to be very achievable.

Mini GTU top side showing polyvaricon and inductance selector switches Mini GTU bottom side showing inductors and switch wiring

About that capacitive plate on the ground …

Various different types of plate were tried. Pizza trays, hardware cloth and chicken wire all sorta worked. I wasn’t happy with any of them though. They are not very easily carried on a hike and one, the hardware cloth, had sharp cut steel wire edges that attacked me viciously when I handled it. A better solution had to be found.

Why don’t you come with me … on a magic carpet ride

I bought a piece of Faraday cloth to try out. This material is very light and easy to pack away in a backpack while hiking. Faraday cloth is sometimes referred to as “magic carpet” in ham radio circles and perhaps with good reason. It is made of several layers with interwoven dense conducting material. I purchased a piece of magic carpet from the “Brazilian River” company. It measures 39×43 inches (very nearly 1 square meter).

One square meter is a little larger than I had hoped for in this application so I folded it twice to created a nearly square smaller footprint. If that worked the plan was to cut the sheet into four pieces and use just a single piece for my hiking antenna. Did it work? With the smallest footprint and adjustment of the Mini GTU for best SWR indication on the radio an SWR of 1.68:1 was obtained. Not bad, in fact very usable, but could a bigger magic carpet go even better?

Second test: the magic carpet was folded in half. Now it was a rectangle and with the Mini GTU adjusted the best SWR dropped to 1.45:1. Obviously a trend had been established. Could the whole sheet of magic carpet top the trend?

Third test: now the whole square meter of Faraday cloth lay spread on the ground, secured from the wind with some rocks surreptitiously borrowed from my wife’s garden bed (thanks to all the ancient Norse gods she doesn’t read my blog). The SWR dropped again to 1.13:1. Jingolaba!

Conclusion: “magic carpet” seems to be best solution. If the available trail-side operating site is too small for the whole one square meter of cloth, it can be folded once or even twice while keeping the SWR well below 2:1.

Other hams have tried even larger sheets of Faraday cloth for a ground plane and achieved good results, but without a GTU. The advantage of the GTU is that only a very small capacitive ground plate is required to achieve the same or better results.

One more final note: antenna physicists will note I have been using SWR as a measurement of the effectiveness of the hiking antenna. Of course, lowest SWR does not imply resonance, but radios do not have any way of measuring and displaying complex impedance values and an antenna analyzer would add to the weight needed to be carried into the field when hiking.

Addendum: a bit of spooky physics to (explain?) how a GTU works

A quarter-wave vertical antenna radiates sinusoidal voltage and current waves into an imaginary medium called the “ether”. At the same time a mirror image of these waves is generated in the ground. These mirror image waves are as real as the “ether”. If we were to bury a current meter in the ground beneath the antenna would it record the mirror image? Unrenowned scientists like myself (I earned a bachelor’s degree in physics way back when) say no.

There are three reasons why not. First, and most obvious, we cannot read a meter buried in the ground. Second, no because the mirror image is virtual not real. And the third reason is really spooky. If you search on the Whirled Wild Web for the “double slit” experiment you will learn that spooky physics stuff only happens when scientists don’t try to monitor it. That experiment is one of the most mind-bending, unexplained phenomena that even amateur scientists can attempt to reproduce. So what happens to the real current flowing through the GTU? RF gotta go somewhere.

The concept of virtual images can be seen in this picture of looking at a transceiver in a mirror. If we trace the path of the light rays through the mirror we can see a mirror image of the transceiver at the same distance behind the mirror as the actual transceiver is in front of the mirror. Step behind the mirror and you won’t find the virtual mirror image. A fanciful thought emerges here. Maybe science will one day find a way to create that expensive radio you can’t afford using a virtual image held behind a mirror.

Mirror image – is it real or virtual?

Physics can take spookiness to extremes. My own favorite is a topic called quantum entanglement. If really mind-bending science interests you, try typing that into your search engine. Even one of the greatest scientific minds of all time, Albert Einstein, called that “spooky action at a distance”.

Back to the future

My next project will be developing this week. I replied to the reader “from the future” and will be exploring his ideas in my backyard where intermittent snow cover is heralding the very slow birth of another spring season. Stayed tuned.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#AmateurRadio #Antennas #Ground #OutdoorOps #Portable

A Mini Ground Tuning Unit and a magic carpet for portable ops

In the last couple of posts I discussed my quest for a simple portable antenna that could be rapidly deployed in a very limited space, for example in a small clearing while hiking through the woods. Such an antenna would have to be a short, yet efficient, vertical that occupies a very small footprint on the ground.

The first successful candidate is a Linear-Loaded Monopole which meets all the design criteria and has performed surprisingly well in initial field tests. Ham Radio Outside the Box has received another suggestion from a reader who lives in the future (I’ll explain in an upcoming post) for a helical antenna. We’ll be hitting the outback (out in the backyard) to experiment with that idea very shortly.

Meanwhile, another design criterion is that a hiking antenna should occupy a very small footprint on the ground. My local woodlands sit atop the Niagara Escarpment and are often very rocky – sometimes with wide and dangerous cracks in the bedrock. There is often nowhere to set up ground radials and limited options for raised radials, so an alternative arrangement for “the other half” of a vertical quarter-wave antenna is necessary.

The solution that has been discussed here on Ham Radio Outside the Box is to use a Ground Tuning Unit (GTU) coupled to a small capacitive plate on the ground. There is some spooky physics associated with how a GTU works which we’ll discuss later in this post. But don’t let that discourage you; the science of physics is full of mind-mending spooky stuff.

Introducing the Mini GTU

I built a GTU some years ago which has seen a lot of use. Unfortunately it is rather big for carrying on a hike through the woods. I needed a small, lightweight version for this new use case. The Mini GTU is a simple device as can be seen from the wiring diagram here:

The device comprises four inductances – 4, 2, 1 and 0.5 microhenries. Each inductor has a SPST switch that can be used to short circuit it and thereby bypass it from the inductance selection. This arrangement allows binary selection of inductance from 0.5 to 7.5 microhenries in 0.5 microhenry increments. For this application it was considered unnecessary to increase the inductance any further, but more inductance could be added by doubling the value of each added inductor.

The Mini GTU is connected to the shield side of the coax that connects the antenna to the radio. This is exactly where you would normally connect radials. The other end of the Mini GTU connects to a capacitive plate laid directly on the ground.

What? No ground current meter?

A GTU usually has a ground current meter in series with the current path. That is achieved by adding a sampling circuit – a small toroidal core inductor with a single secondary turn, a diode rectifier and meter. Again, unnecessary in this application because as the current through the GTU increases, so does the current in the radiating part of the antenna. This is indicated by observing the SWR indicator on the radio.

Construction of the Mini GTU

I built the device on a small piece of perfboard. The following two pictures show the layout of the components. As usual, my collection of T37-2 and T37-6 powdered iron cores were deployed. The smallest inductor (0.5uH) was wound on two stacked T37-6 cores. The 1uH and 2uH inductors were each wound on two stacked T37-2 cores. For the 4uH inductor I redeployed the six T37-2 binocular style cores I had used on the 2T2C inductor discussed in a recent post.

Why not just use one tapped inductor and a rotary switch?

That’s a good question. I could have wound a single 7.5 uH inductor with taps every 0.5 microhenries and used a rotary switch to select the appropriate inductance. But that would require good precision in locating the tap points since 0.5uH is a very small inductance that is more easily wound on a small core.

It is unnecessary to wind these smaller inductors to the precise values specified. Even using tiny T37 cores, a single turn can change the inductance quite a bit. I strove for a precision of about 10% which turned out to be very achievable.

Mini GTU top side showing polyvaricon and inductance selector switches Mini GTU bottom side showing inductors and switch wiring

About that capacitive plate on the ground …

Various different types of plate were tried. Pizza trays, hardware cloth and chicken wire all sorta worked. I wasn’t happy with any of them though. They are not very easily carried on a hike and one, the hardware cloth, had sharp cut steel wire edges that attacked me viciously when I handled it. A better solution had to be found.

Why don’t you come with me … on a magic carpet ride

I bought a piece of Faraday cloth to try out. This material is very light and easy to pack away in a backpack while hiking. Faraday cloth is sometimes referred to as “magic carpet” in ham radio circles and perhaps with good reason. It is made of several layers with interwoven dense conducting material. I purchased a piece of magic carpet from the “Brazilian River” company. It measures 39×43 inches (very nearly 1 square meter).

One square meter is a little larger than I had hoped for in this application so I folded it twice to created a nearly square smaller footprint. If that worked the plan was to cut the sheet into four pieces and use just a single piece for my hiking antenna. Did it work? With the smallest footprint and adjustment of the Mini GTU for best SWR indication on the radio an SWR of 1.68:1 was obtained. Not bad, in fact very usable, but could a bigger magic carpet go even better?

Second test: the magic carpet was folded in half. Now it was a rectangle and with the Mini GTU adjusted the best SWR dropped to 1.45:1. Obviously a trend had been established. Could the whole sheet of magic carpet top the trend?

Third test: now the whole square meter of Faraday cloth lay spread on the ground, secured from the wind with some rocks surreptitiously borrowed from my wife’s garden bed (thanks to all the ancient Norse gods she doesn’t read my blog). The SWR dropped again to 1.13:1. Jingolaba!

Conclusion: “magic carpet” seems to be best solution. If the available trail-side operating site is too small for the whole one square meter of cloth, it can be folded once or even twice while keeping the SWR well below 2:1.

Other hams have tried even larger sheets of Faraday cloth for a ground plane and achieved good results, but without a GTU. The advantage of the GTU is that only a very small capacitive ground plate is required to achieve the same or better results.

One more final note: antenna physicists will note I have been using SWR as a measurement of the effectiveness of the hiking antenna. Of course, lowest SWR does not imply resonance, but radios do not have any way of measuring and displaying complex impedance values and an antenna analyzer would add to the weight needed to be carried into the field when hiking.

Addendum: a bit of spooky physics to (explain?) how a GTU works

A quarter-wave vertical antenna radiates sinusoidal voltage and current waves into an imaginary medium called the “ether”. At the same time a mirror image of these waves is generated in the ground. These mirror image waves are as real as the “ether”. If we were to bury a current meter in the ground beneath the antenna would it record the mirror image? Unrenowned scientists like myself (I earned a bachelor’s degree in physics way back when) say no.

There are three reasons why not. First, and most obvious, we cannot read a meter buried in the ground. Second, no because the mirror image is virtual not real. And the third reason is really spooky. If you search on the Whirled Wild Web for the “double slit” experiment you will learn that spooky physics stuff only happens when scientists don’t try to monitor it. That experiment is one of the most mind-bending, unexplained phenomena that even amateur scientists can attempt to reproduce. So what happens to the real current flowing through the GTU? RF gotta go somewhere.

The concept of virtual images can be seen in this picture of looking at a transceiver in a mirror. If we trace the path of the light rays through the mirror we can see a mirror image of the transceiver at the same distance behind the mirror as the actual transceiver is in front of the mirror. Step behind the mirror and you won’t find the virtual mirror image. A fanciful thought emerges here. Maybe science will one day find a way to create that expensive radio you can’t afford using a virtual image held behind a mirror.

Mirror image – is it real or virtual?

Physics can take spookiness to extremes. My own favorite is a topic called quantum entanglement. If really mind-bending science interests you, try typing that into your search engine. Even one of the greatest scientific minds of all time, Albert Einstein, called that “spooky action at a distance”.

Back to the future

My next project will be developing this week. I replied to the reader “from the future” and will be exploring his ideas in my backyard where intermittent snow cover is heralding the very slow birth of another spring season. Stayed tuned.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#AmateurRadio #Antennas #Ground #OutdoorOps #Portable

A Mini Ground Tuning Unit and a magic carpet for portable ops

In the last couple of posts I discussed my quest for a simple portable antenna that could be rapidly deployed in a very limited space, for example in a small clearing while hiking through the woods. Such an antenna would have to be a short, yet efficient, vertical that occupies a very small footprint on the ground.

The first successful candidate is a Linear-Loaded Monopole which meets all the design criteria and has performed surprisingly well in initial field tests. Ham Radio Outside the Box has received another suggestion from a reader who lives in the future (I’ll explain in an upcoming post) for a helical antenna. We’ll be hitting the outback (out in the backyard) to experiment with that idea very shortly.

Meanwhile, another design criterion is that a hiking antenna should occupy a very small footprint on the ground. My local woodlands sit atop the Niagara Escarpment and are often very rocky – sometimes with wide and dangerous cracks in the bedrock. There is often nowhere to set up ground radials and limited options for raised radials, so an alternative arrangement for “the other half” of a vertical quarter-wave antenna is necessary.

The solution that has been discussed here on Ham Radio Outside the Box is to use a Ground Tuning Unit (GTU) coupled to a small capacitive plate on the ground. There is some spooky physics associated with how a GTU works which we’ll discuss later in this post. But don’t let that discourage you; the science of physics is full of mind-mending spooky stuff.

Introducing the Mini GTU

I built a GTU some years ago which has seen a lot of use. Unfortunately it is rather big for carrying on a hike through the woods. I needed a small, lightweight version for this new use case. The Mini GTU is a simple device as can be seen from the wiring diagram here:

The device comprises four inductances – 4, 2, 1 and 0.5 microhenries. Each inductor has a SPST switch that can be used to short circuit it and thereby bypass it from the inductance selection. This arrangement allows binary selection of inductance from 0.5 to 7.5 microhenries in 0.5 microhenry increments. For this application it was considered unnecessary to increase the inductance any further, but more inductance could be added by doubling the value of each added inductor.

The Mini GTU is connected to the shield side of the coax that connects the antenna to the radio. This is exactly where you would normally connect radials. The other end of the Mini GTU connects to a capacitive plate laid directly on the ground.

What? No ground current meter?

A GTU usually has a ground current meter in series with the current path. That is achieved by adding a sampling circuit – a small toroidal core inductor with a single secondary turn, a diode rectifier and meter. Again, unnecessary in this application because as the current through the GTU increases, so does the current in the radiating part of the antenna. This is indicated by observing the SWR indicator on the radio.

Construction of the Mini GTU

I built the device on a small piece of perfboard. The following two pictures show the layout of the components. As usual, my collection of T37-2 and T37-6 powdered iron cores were deployed. The smallest inductor (0.5uH) was wound on two stacked T37-6 cores. The 1uH and 2uH inductors were each wound on two stacked T37-2 cores. For the 4uH inductor I redeployed the six T37-2 binocular style cores I had used on the 2T2C inductor discussed in a recent post.

Why not just use one tapped inductor and a rotary switch?

That’s a good question. I could have wound a single 7.5 uH inductor with taps every 0.5 microhenries and used a rotary switch to select the appropriate inductance. But that would require good precision in locating the tap points since 0.5uH is a very small inductance that is more easily wound on a small core.

It is unnecessary to wind these smaller inductors to the precise values specified. Even using tiny T37 cores, a single turn can change the inductance quite a bit. I strove for a precision of about 10% which turned out to be very achievable.

Mini GTU top side showing polyvaricon and inductance selector switches Mini GTU bottom side showing inductors and switch wiring

About that capacitive plate on the ground …

Various different types of plate were tried. Pizza trays, hardware cloth and chicken wire all sorta worked. I wasn’t happy with any of them though. They are not very easily carried on a hike and one, the hardware cloth, had sharp cut steel wire edges that attacked me viciously when I handled it. A better solution had to be found.

Why don’t you come with me … on a magic carpet ride

I bought a piece of Faraday cloth to try out. This material is very light and easy to pack away in a backpack while hiking. Faraday cloth is sometimes referred to as “magic carpet” in ham radio circles and perhaps with good reason. It is made of several layers with interwoven dense conducting material. I purchased a piece of magic carpet from the “Brazilian River” company. It measures 39×43 inches (very nearly 1 square meter).

One square meter is a little larger than I had hoped for in this application so I folded it twice to created a nearly square smaller footprint. If that worked the plan was to cut the sheet into four pieces and use just a single piece for my hiking antenna. Did it work? With the smallest footprint and adjustment of the Mini GTU for best SWR indication on the radio an SWR of 1.68:1 was obtained. Not bad, in fact very usable, but could a bigger magic carpet go even better?

Second test: the magic carpet was folded in half. Now it was a rectangle and with the Mini GTU adjusted the best SWR dropped to 1.45:1. Obviously a trend had been established. Could the whole sheet of magic carpet top the trend?

Third test: now the whole square meter of Faraday cloth lay spread on the ground, secured from the wind with some rocks surreptitiously borrowed from my wife’s garden bed (thanks to all the ancient Norse gods she doesn’t read my blog). The SWR dropped again to 1.13:1. Jingolaba!

Conclusion: “magic carpet” seems to be best solution. If the available trail-side operating site is too small for the whole one square meter of cloth, it can be folded once or even twice while keeping the SWR well below 2:1.

Other hams have tried even larger sheets of Faraday cloth for a ground plane and achieved good results, but without a GTU. The advantage of the GTU is that only a very small capacitive ground plate is required to achieve the same or better results.

One more final note: antenna physicists will note I have been using SWR as a measurement of the effectiveness of the hiking antenna. Of course, lowest SWR does not imply resonance, but radios do not have any way of measuring and displaying complex impedance values and an antenna analyzer would add to the weight needed to be carried into the field when hiking.

Addendum: a bit of spooky physics to (explain?) how a GTU works

A quarter-wave vertical antenna radiates sinusoidal voltage and current waves into an imaginary medium called the “ether”. At the same time a mirror image of these waves is generated in the ground. These mirror image waves are as real as the “ether”. If we were to bury a current meter in the ground beneath the antenna would it record the mirror image? Unrenowned scientists like myself (I earned a bachelor’s degree in physics way back when) say no.

There are three reasons why not. First, and most obvious, we cannot read a meter buried in the ground. Second, no because the mirror image is virtual not real. And the third reason is really spooky. If you search on the Whirled Wild Web for the “double slit” experiment you will learn that spooky physics stuff only happens when scientists don’t try to monitor it. That experiment is one of the most mind-bending, unexplained phenomena that even amateur scientists can attempt to reproduce. So what happens to the real current flowing through the GTU? RF gotta go somewhere.

The concept of virtual images can be seen in this picture of looking at a transceiver in a mirror. If we trace the path of the light rays through the mirror we can see a mirror image of the transceiver at the same distance behind the mirror as the actual transceiver is in front of the mirror. Step behind the mirror and you won’t find the virtual mirror image. A fanciful thought emerges here. Maybe science will one day find a way to create that expensive radio you can’t afford using a virtual image held behind a mirror.

Mirror image – is it real or virtual?

Physics can take spookiness to extremes. My own favorite is a topic called quantum entanglement. If really mind-bending science interests you, try typing that into your search engine. Even one of the greatest scientific minds of all time, Albert Einstein, called that “spooky action at a distance”.

Back to the future

My next project will be developing this week. I replied to the reader “from the future” and will be exploring his ideas in my backyard where intermittent snow cover is heralding the very slow birth of another spring season. Stayed tuned.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#AmateurRadio #Antennas #Ground #OutdoorOps #Portable

A Mini Ground Tuning Unit and a magic carpet for portable ops

In the last couple of posts I discussed my quest for a simple portable antenna that could be rapidly deployed in a very limited space, for example in a small clearing while hiking through the woods. Such an antenna would have to be a short, yet efficient, vertical that occupies a very small footprint on the ground.

The first successful candidate is a Linear-Loaded Monopole which meets all the design criteria and has performed surprisingly well in initial field tests. Ham Radio Outside the Box has received another suggestion from a reader who lives in the future (I’ll explain in an upcoming post) for a helical antenna. We’ll be hitting the outback (out in the backyard) to experiment with that idea very shortly.

Meanwhile, another design criterion is that a hiking antenna should occupy a very small footprint on the ground. My local woodlands sit atop the Niagara Escarpment and are often very rocky – sometimes with wide and dangerous cracks in the bedrock. There is often nowhere to set up ground radials and limited options for raised radials, so an alternative arrangement for “the other half” of a vertical quarter-wave antenna is necessary.

The solution that has been discussed here on Ham Radio Outside the Box is to use a Ground Tuning Unit (GTU) coupled to a small capacitive plate on the ground. There is some spooky physics associated with how a GTU works which we’ll discuss later in this post. But don’t let that discourage you; the science of physics is full of mind-mending spooky stuff.

Introducing the Mini GTU

I built a GTU some years ago which has seen a lot of use. Unfortunately it is rather big for carrying on a hike through the woods. I needed a small, lightweight version for this new use case. The Mini GTU is a simple device as can be seen from the wiring diagram here:

The device comprises four inductances – 4, 2, 1 and 0.5 microhenries. Each inductor has a SPST switch that can be used to short circuit it and thereby bypass it from the inductance selection. This arrangement allows binary selection of inductance from 0.5 to 7.5 microhenries in 0.5 microhenry increments. For this application it was considered unnecessary to increase the inductance any further, but more inductance could be added by doubling the value of each added inductor.

The Mini GTU is connected to the shield side of the coax that connects the antenna to the radio. This is exactly where you would normally connect radials. The other end of the Mini GTU connects to a capacitive plate laid directly on the ground.

What? No ground current meter?

A GTU usually has a ground current meter in series with the current path. That is achieved by adding a sampling circuit – a small toroidal core inductor with a single secondary turn, a diode rectifier and meter. Again, unnecessary in this application because as the current through the GTU increases, so does the current in the radiating part of the antenna. This is indicated by observing the SWR indicator on the radio.

Construction of the Mini GTU

I built the device on a small piece of perfboard. The following two pictures show the layout of the components. As usual, my collection of T37-2 and T37-6 powdered iron cores were deployed. The smallest inductor (0.5uH) was wound on two stacked T37-6 cores. The 1uH and 2uH inductors were each wound on two stacked T37-2 cores. For the 4uH inductor I redeployed the six T37-2 binocular style cores I had used on the 2T2C inductor discussed in a recent post.

Why not just use one tapped inductor and a rotary switch?

That’s a good question. I could have wound a single 7.5 uH inductor with taps every 0.5 microhenries and used a rotary switch to select the appropriate inductance. But that would require good precision in locating the tap points since 0.5uH is a very small inductance that is more easily wound on a small core.

It is unnecessary to wind these smaller inductors to the precise values specified. Even using tiny T37 cores, a single turn can change the inductance quite a bit. I strove for a precision of about 10% which turned out to be very achievable.

Mini GTU top side showing polyvaricon and inductance selector switches Mini GTU bottom side showing inductors and switch wiring

About that capacitive plate on the ground …

Various different types of plate were tried. Pizza trays, hardware cloth and chicken wire all sorta worked. I wasn’t happy with any of them though. They are not very easily carried on a hike and one, the hardware cloth, had sharp cut steel wire edges that attacked me viciously when I handled it. A better solution had to be found.

Why don’t you come with me … on a magic carpet ride

I bought a piece of Faraday cloth to try out. This material is very light and easy to pack away in a backpack while hiking. Faraday cloth is sometimes referred to as “magic carpet” in ham radio circles and perhaps with good reason. It is made of several layers with interwoven dense conducting material. I purchased a piece of magic carpet from the “Brazilian River” company. It measures 39×43 inches (very nearly 1 square meter).

One square meter is a little larger than I had hoped for in this application so I folded it twice to created a nearly square smaller footprint. If that worked the plan was to cut the sheet into four pieces and use just a single piece for my hiking antenna. Did it work? With the smallest footprint and adjustment of the Mini GTU for best SWR indication on the radio an SWR of 1.68:1 was obtained. Not bad, in fact very usable, but could a bigger magic carpet go even better?

Second test: the magic carpet was folded in half. Now it was a rectangle and with the Mini GTU adjusted the best SWR dropped to 1.45:1. Obviously a trend had been established. Could the whole sheet of magic carpet top the trend?

Third test: now the whole square meter of Faraday cloth lay spread on the ground, secured from the wind with some rocks surreptitiously borrowed from my wife’s garden bed (thanks to all the ancient Norse gods she doesn’t read my blog). The SWR dropped again to 1.13:1. Jingolaba!

Conclusion: “magic carpet” seems to be best solution. If the available trail-side operating site is too small for the whole one square meter of cloth, it can be folded once or even twice while keeping the SWR well below 2:1.

Other hams have tried even larger sheets of Faraday cloth for a ground plane and achieved good results, but without a GTU. The advantage of the GTU is that only a very small capacitive ground plate is required to achieve the same or better results.

One more final note: antenna physicists will note I have been using SWR as a measurement of the effectiveness of the hiking antenna. Of course, lowest SWR does not imply resonance, but radios do not have any way of measuring and displaying complex impedance values and an antenna analyzer would add to the weight needed to be carried into the field when hiking.

Addendum: a bit of spooky physics to (explain?) how a GTU works

A quarter-wave vertical antenna radiates sinusoidal voltage and current waves into an imaginary medium called the “ether”. At the same time a mirror image of these waves is generated in the ground. These mirror image waves are as real as the “ether”. If we were to bury a current meter in the ground beneath the antenna would it record the mirror image? Unrenowned scientists like myself (I earned a bachelor’s degree in physics way back when) say no.

There are three reasons why not. First, and most obvious, we cannot read a meter buried in the ground. Second, no because the mirror image is virtual not real. And the third reason is really spooky. If you search on the Whirled Wild Web for the “double slit” experiment you will learn that spooky physics stuff only happens when scientists don’t try to monitor it. That experiment is one of the most mind-bending, unexplained phenomena that even amateur scientists can attempt to reproduce. So what happens to the real current flowing through the GTU? RF gotta go somewhere.

The concept of virtual images can be seen in this picture of looking at a transceiver in a mirror. If we trace the path of the light rays through the mirror we can see a mirror image of the transceiver at the same distance behind the mirror as the actual transceiver is in front of the mirror. Step behind the mirror and you won’t find the virtual mirror image. A fanciful thought emerges here. Maybe science will one day find a way to create that expensive radio you can’t afford using a virtual image held behind a mirror.

Mirror image – is it real or virtual?

Physics can take spookiness to extremes. My own favorite is a topic called quantum entanglement. If really mind-bending science interests you, try typing that into your search engine. Even one of the greatest scientific minds of all time, Albert Einstein, called that “spooky action at a distance”.

Back to the future

My next project will be developing this week. I replied to the reader “from the future” and will be exploring his ideas in my backyard where intermittent snow cover is heralding the very slow birth of another spring season. Stayed tuned.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#AmateurRadio #Antennas #Ground #OutdoorOps #Portable

A Mini Ground Tuning Unit and a magic carpet for portable ops

In the last couple of posts I discussed my quest for a simple portable antenna that could be rapidly deployed in a very limited space, for example in a small clearing while hiking through the woods. Such an antenna would have to be a short, yet efficient, vertical that occupies a very small footprint on the ground.

The first successful candidate is a Linear-Loaded Monopole which meets all the design criteria and has performed surprisingly well in initial field tests. Ham Radio Outside the Box has received another suggestion from a reader who lives in the future (I’ll explain in an upcoming post) for a helical antenna. We’ll be hitting the outback (out in the backyard) to experiment with that idea very shortly.

Meanwhile, another design criterion is that a hiking antenna should occupy a very small footprint on the ground. My local woodlands sit atop the Niagara Escarpment and are often very rocky – sometimes with wide and dangerous cracks in the bedrock. There is often nowhere to set up ground radials and limited options for raised radials, so an alternative arrangement for “the other half” of a vertical quarter-wave antenna is necessary.

The solution that has been discussed here on Ham Radio Outside the Box is to use a Ground Tuning Unit (GTU) coupled to a small capacitive plate on the ground. There is some spooky physics associated with how a GTU works which we’ll discuss later in this post. But don’t let that discourage you; the science of physics is full of mind-mending spooky stuff.

Introducing the Mini GTU

I built a GTU some years ago which has seen a lot of use. Unfortunately it is rather big for carrying on a hike through the woods. I needed a small, lightweight version for this new use case. The Mini GTU is a simple device as can be seen from the wiring diagram here:

The device comprises four inductances – 4, 2, 1 and 0.5 microhenries. Each inductor has a SPST switch that can be used to short circuit it and thereby bypass it from the inductance selection. This arrangement allows binary selection of inductance from 0.5 to 7.5 microhenries in 0.5 microhenry increments. For this application it was considered unnecessary to increase the inductance any further, but more inductance could be added by doubling the value of each added inductor.

The Mini GTU is connected to the shield side of the coax that connects the antenna to the radio. This is exactly where you would normally connect radials. The other end of the Mini GTU connects to a capacitive plate laid directly on the ground.

What? No ground current meter?

A GTU usually has a ground current meter in series with the current path. That is achieved by adding a sampling circuit – a small toroidal core inductor with a single secondary turn, a diode rectifier and meter. Again, unnecessary in this application because as the current through the GTU increases, so does the current in the radiating part of the antenna. This is indicated by observing the SWR indicator on the radio.

Construction of the Mini GTU

I built the device on a small piece of perfboard. The following two pictures show the layout of the components. As usual, my collection of T37-2 and T37-6 powdered iron cores were deployed. The smallest inductor (0.5uH) was wound on two stacked T37-6 cores. The 1uH and 2uH inductors were each wound on two stacked T37-2 cores. For the 4uH inductor I redeployed the six T37-2 binocular style cores I had used on the 2T2C inductor discussed in a recent post.

Why not just use one tapped inductor and a rotary switch?

That’s a good question. I could have wound a single 7.5 uH inductor with taps every 0.5 microhenries and used a rotary switch to select the appropriate inductance. But that would require good precision in locating the tap points since 0.5uH is a very small inductance that is more easily wound on a small core.

It is unnecessary to wind these smaller inductors to the precise values specified. Even using tiny T37 cores, a single turn can change the inductance quite a bit. I strove for a precision of about 10% which turned out to be very achievable.

Mini GTU top side showing polyvaricon and inductance selector switches Mini GTU bottom side showing inductors and switch wiring

About that capacitive plate on the ground …

Various different types of plate were tried. Pizza trays, hardware cloth and chicken wire all sorta worked. I wasn’t happy with any of them though. They are not very easily carried on a hike and one, the hardware cloth, had sharp cut steel wire edges that attacked me viciously when I handled it. A better solution had to be found.

Why don’t you come with me … on a magic carpet ride

I bought a piece of Faraday cloth to try out. This material is very light and easy to pack away in a backpack while hiking. Faraday cloth is sometimes referred to as “magic carpet” in ham radio circles and perhaps with good reason. It is made of several layers with interwoven dense conducting material. I purchased a piece of magic carpet from the “Brazilian River” company. It measures 39×43 inches (very nearly 1 square meter).

One square meter is a little larger than I had hoped for in this application so I folded it twice to created a nearly square smaller footprint. If that worked the plan was to cut the sheet into four pieces and use just a single piece for my hiking antenna. Did it work? With the smallest footprint and adjustment of the Mini GTU for best SWR indication on the radio an SWR of 1.68:1 was obtained. Not bad, in fact very usable, but could a bigger magic carpet go even better?

Second test: the magic carpet was folded in half. Now it was a rectangle and with the Mini GTU adjusted the best SWR dropped to 1.45:1. Obviously a trend had been established. Could the whole sheet of magic carpet top the trend?

Third test: now the whole square meter of Faraday cloth lay spread on the ground, secured from the wind with some rocks surreptitiously borrowed from my wife’s garden bed (thanks to all the ancient Norse gods she doesn’t read my blog). The SWR dropped again to 1.13:1. Jingolaba!

Conclusion: “magic carpet” seems to be best solution. If the available trail-side operating site is too small for the whole one square meter of cloth, it can be folded once or even twice while keeping the SWR well below 2:1.

Other hams have tried even larger sheets of Faraday cloth for a ground plane and achieved good results, but without a GTU. The advantage of the GTU is that only a very small capacitive ground plate is required to achieve the same or better results.

One more final note: antenna physicists will note I have been using SWR as a measurement of the effectiveness of the hiking antenna. Of course, lowest SWR does not imply resonance, but radios do not have any way of measuring and displaying complex impedance values and an antenna analyzer would add to the weight needed to be carried into the field when hiking.

Addendum: a bit of spooky physics to (explain?) how a GTU works

A quarter-wave vertical antenna radiates sinusoidal voltage and current waves into an imaginary medium called the “ether”. At the same time a mirror image of these waves is generated in the ground. These mirror image waves are as real as the “ether”. If we were to bury a current meter in the ground beneath the antenna would it record the mirror image? Unrenowned scientists like myself (I earned a bachelor’s degree in physics way back when) say no.

There are three reasons why not. First, and most obvious, we cannot read a meter buried in the ground. Second, no because the mirror image is virtual not real. And the third reason is really spooky. If you search on the Whirled Wild Web for the “double slit” experiment you will learn that spooky physics stuff only happens when scientists don’t try to monitor it. That experiment is one of the most mind-bending, unexplained phenomena that even amateur scientists can attempt to reproduce. So what happens to the real current flowing through the GTU? RF gotta go somewhere.

The concept of virtual images can be seen in this picture of looking at a transceiver in a mirror. If we trace the path of the light rays through the mirror we can see a mirror image of the transceiver at the same distance behind the mirror as the actual transceiver is in front of the mirror. Step behind the mirror and you won’t find the virtual mirror image. A fanciful thought emerges here. Maybe science will one day find a way to create that expensive radio you can’t afford using a virtual image held behind a mirror.

Mirror image – is it real or virtual?

Physics can take spookiness to extremes. My own favorite is a topic called quantum entanglement. If really mind-bending science interests you, try typing that into your search engine. Even one of the greatest scientific minds of all time, Albert Einstein, called that “spooky action at a distance”.

Back to the future

My next project will be developing this week. I replied to the reader “from the future” and will be exploring his ideas in my backyard where intermittent snow cover is heralding the very slow birth of another spring season. Stayed tuned.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#AmateurRadio #Antennas #Ground #OutdoorOps #Portable

A Linear-Loaded Monopole antenna for hiking

There is a lot of information online about Linear-Loaded Dipoles, but I haven’t found anything at all about cutting a Linear-Loaded Dipole in half to create a Linear-Loaded Monopole worked against ground. The legendary L.B. Cebik (W4RNL, SK) published a design philosophy for an 80m Linear-Loaded Monopole, but it didn’t match what I had in mind. So I decided to build one for the purpose of experimentation. Maybe I could make it into a compact, lightweight antenna capable of rapid deployment while hiking – maybe.

What is Linear-Loading?

According to my search engine’s “Search Assist”, “Linear loading is a technique used in antenna design where a portion of the antenna wire is folded back on itself to reduce its overall length while maintaining good electrical performance. This method allows for a shorter antenna that can still operate effectively on the desired frequency.”

Sounds very simple doesn’t it? In the real world, where the RF hits the ether, it gets a little more complicated – especially when venturing outside the box. I could have made life nice and simple by building a Linear-Loaded Dipole; there are lots of designs available online that I could have used. But a dipole is too large for agile, rapid deployments; it needs a taller pole which, in turn, requires pegging into the ground and guy wires. I could use a tree limb for support, but only if suitable trees are available; often they are not. No, my requirement for a very simple hiking antenna implies a vertical antenna – a short vertical antenna.

Short antennas are easy to build; simply add a loading coil at the base and Bob’s your uncle. But that won’t qualify for my purposes. Short loaded antennas have a reduced radiation resistance and ohmic loss in the coil – they are inefficient. So how to shorten an antenna while maintaining efficiency? That’s where linear loading comes into play. A linear-loaded antenna is almost as efficient as a regular version.

How to build a Linear-Loaded Monopole?

It should have been “EZ-PZ”. Just take the dimensions from any of the online designs for a Linear-Loaded Dipole and cut them in half. That’s where I started. For a 20 meter antenna, a length of around 11 feet of window line, shorted at one end, is a good starting point. I hauled it up the mast in my newly glacier-free backyard, attached a counterpoise wire and started trimming. Between snips the resonant frequency was monitored on my RigExpert antenna analyzer. I use the term “resonant frequency” loosely in this context. The expected impedance of a quarter-wave vertical is around 37 ohms which implies there will be some reactive component to the impedance. I searched for a dip in SWR over a wide frequency range until it was possible to locate where the antenna was “resonant”.

Home made ladder line. The separators are made of shrink wrap heated with a Weller soldering gun with plastic welding tip. Lots of work and not very elegant, but practical and cheap!

So long John?

A low SWR in the region of the bottom end of the 20 meter band was the target, but the dip in the curve was below the bottom of the band – way below. I snipped and snipped until that dip fell where it was needed. Then the counterpoise length was adjusted until the lowest SWR was obtained. How long was my ladder line? A large pile of snipped ladder line lay on the grass beneath the pole. When I took the antenna down, laid it out on the ground and measured its length it was quite a surprise to see the ladder line radiator was only 8.67ft (2.64m) long. And the counterpoise length was 18ft (5.5m).

Jingo-la-ba!

Will it QSO? I fired a smidgen less than five watts into it and received a response from a station somewhere in the US with an encouraging signal report. Well, at least it “works”. But now came the next step. That pesky 18ft counterpoise had to go, to be replaced with the 2T2C (Tuned Tank Circuit Coupler) described in the last post.

A new challenge

The 2T2C ground coupler was directly connected to the ground side of the short coax feedline and a further wire was added to connect to a small capacitance plate on the ground. Life is complicated and then you die, so why do I insist on adding more complications? It’s called experimentation – experiment and learn! I learned. I learned that my choice of inductance and capacitance for the 2T2C resulted in impossibly sharp tuning of the ground circuit. The 2T2C needed a design modification to reduce the inductance and increase the capacitance. Spreadsheet modeling suggested this would make the 2T2C easier to adjust. I needed to confirm that before rebuilding the 2T2C, but how?

L-match innovation

The answer came in the form of a variable L-match that I built quite recently. It has switch selectable inductors and a variable capacitor. It could be adapted to fit this bill very nicely.

This idea was inspired by VK3YE who published a YouTube video about it some time ago. At one terminal of the L-match a connection is made to the BNC center conductor. At the other terminal, a connection is made to the shield side of the BNC. If you trace the signal path through the device it can be seen that the inductors and capacitor are in series. Now we have a Ground Tuning Unit (GTU) and can use binary selection of the inductances, together with rotating the variable capacitor, to determine the combination of inductance and capacitance for easiest tuning of the ground connection.

The inductances available on my L-match are 0.5, 1, 2, 4, 8 microhenries, allowing the inductance to be varied up to 15.5 microhenries in 0.5 microhenry increments. The variable capacitor is a 30-160pF polyvaricon.

Now, with the 8.67ft linear-loaded vertical erected and the “L-match GTU” making the ground connection via a capacitance plate on the ground, it was easy to select values that would allow smooth adjustment of the antenna SWR. It was found that 1 or 1.5 microhenries worked best. With these values selected the polyvaricon could be adjusted around mid-range to easily select best SWR.

A caution!

There’s a gotcha with this technique. My L-match has a switch to connect the top end of the variable capacitor to either the input or output. This is used to enable fast selection of either high or low impedance antennas. Referring to the diagram above, if the switch (not shown) is set to connect the variable capacitor to the left side of the inductors, this technique will not work. The inductors will be out of circuit and only the variable capacitor will be in circuit.

Will it still QSO?

My low-band QMX was dug out of its field pack and hooked up to the revised antenna (8.67ft of vertical window line with the “L-match GTU” providing the “other half” of the antenna. Using the “Tune SWR” feature of the QMX, the best SWR of 1.36:1 was obtained by a very small adjustment of the variable capacitor in the L-match GTU. Then it was time to go hunting. My best contact was in the state of Arizona (the “Arid Zone”?) almost 3000km away from my station in Southern Ontario. Signal reports were 599 each way. My sent report was a genuine 599 suggesting the antenna has good ears. The 599 report I received may have been genuine or perhaps it was just a “contest report”. In any event a good solid contact was made. A second contact into North Carolina only yielded a 549 signal report, but perhaps the low angle radiation pattern favored longer distance contacts.

Notice that the L-match GTU has no RF current meter. I could perhaps have inserted my home brewed RF current meter in circuit, but it wasn’t really necessary. Adjusting the ground current also regulates the radiating element current. Simply adjusting for lowest SWR indication on the radio peaks the radiated energy.

For practical outdoor use while hiking through the woods and rapidly deploying the antenna in clearings, the L-match GTU will be replaced with a much smaller series L-C coupler (2T2C). A 13ft Crappie pole is used to support the antenna. It collapses to the perfect length for carrying inside a fishing pole bag (no surprise there then) and is very lightweight.

There’s another gotcha

When the current distribution on the antenna was viewed in EZNEC it was discovered that the current maximum is in the ground circuit instead of in the radiator. Just like any ground-mounted antenna, this can lead to ground losses and inefficiency. However, the primary design objective was not to seek a Nobel Prize in antenna physics, but to come up with a design that meets the objective of a rapid deployment, simple antenna for hiking through the woods. The Linear-Loaded Monopole may just meet that requirement, but I have other ideas to try first. Stay tuned.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#AmateurRadio #Antennas #Counterpoise #Ground #OutdoorOps #Portable #QMX

A Linear-Loaded Monopole antenna for hiking

There is a lot of information online about Linear-Loaded Dipoles, but I haven’t found anything at all about cutting a Linear-Loaded Dipole in half to create a Linear-Loaded Monopole worked against ground. The legendary L.B. Cebik (W4RNL, SK) published a design philosophy for an 80m Linear-Loaded Monopole, but it didn’t match what I had in mind. So I decided to build one for the purpose of experimentation. Maybe I could make it into a compact, lightweight antenna capable of rapid deployment while hiking – maybe.

What is Linear-Loading?

According to my search engine’s “Search Assist”, “Linear loading is a technique used in antenna design where a portion of the antenna wire is folded back on itself to reduce its overall length while maintaining good electrical performance. This method allows for a shorter antenna that can still operate effectively on the desired frequency.”

Sounds very simple doesn’t it? In the real world, where the RF hits the ether, it gets a little more complicated – especially when venturing outside the box. I could have made life nice and simple by building a Linear-Loaded Dipole; there are lots of designs available online that I could have used. But a dipole is too large for agile, rapid deployments; it needs a taller pole which, in turn, requires pegging into the ground and guy wires. I could use a tree limb for support, but only if suitable trees are available; often they are not. No, my requirement for a very simple hiking antenna implies a vertical antenna – a short vertical antenna.

Short antennas are easy to build; simply add a loading coil at the base and Bob’s your uncle. But that won’t qualify for my purposes. Short loaded antennas have a reduced radiation resistance and ohmic loss in the coil – they are inefficient. So how to shorten an antenna while maintaining efficiency? That’s where linear loading comes into play. A linear-loaded antenna is almost as efficient as a regular version.

How to build a Linear-Loaded Monopole?

It should have been “EZ-PZ”. Just take the dimensions from any of the online designs for a Linear-Loaded Dipole and cut them in half. That’s where I started. For a 20 meter antenna, a length of around 11 feet of window line, shorted at one end, is a good starting point. I hauled it up the mast in my newly glacier-free backyard, attached a counterpoise wire and started trimming. Between snips the resonant frequency was monitored on my RigExpert antenna analyzer. I use the term “resonant frequency” loosely in this context. The expected impedance of a quarter-wave vertical is around 37 ohms which implies there will be some reactive component to the impedance. I searched for a dip in SWR over a wide frequency range until it was possible to locate where the antenna was “resonant”.

Home made ladder line. The separators are made of shrink wrap heated with a Weller soldering gun with plastic welding tip. Lots of work and not very elegant, but practical and cheap!

So long John?

A low SWR in the region of the bottom end of the 20 meter band was the target, but the dip in the curve was below the bottom of the band – way below. I snipped and snipped until that dip fell where it was needed. Then the counterpoise length was adjusted until the lowest SWR was obtained. How long was my ladder line? A large pile of snipped ladder line lay on the grass beneath the pole. When I took the antenna down, laid it out on the ground and measured its length it was quite a surprise to see the ladder line radiator was only 8.67ft (2.64m) long. And the counterpoise length was 18ft (5.5m).

Jingo-la-ba!

Will it QSO? I fired a smidgen less than five watts into it and received a response from a station somewhere in the US with an encouraging signal report. Well, at least it “works”. But now came the next step. That pesky 18ft counterpoise had to go, to be replaced with the 2T2C (Tuned Tank Circuit Coupler) described in the last post.

A new challenge

The 2T2C ground coupler was directly connected to the ground side of the short coax feedline and a further wire was added to connect to a small capacitance plate on the ground. Life is complicated and then you die, so why do I insist on adding more complications? It’s called experimentation – experiment and learn! I learned. I learned that my choice of inductance and capacitance for the 2T2C resulted in impossibly sharp tuning of the ground circuit. The 2T2C needed a design modification to reduce the inductance and increase the capacitance. Spreadsheet modeling suggested this would make the 2T2C easier to adjust. I needed to confirm that before rebuilding the 2T2C, but how?

L-match innovation

The answer came in the form of a variable L-match that I built quite recently. It has switch selectable inductors and a variable capacitor. It could be adapted to fit this bill very nicely.

This idea was inspired by VK3YE who published a YouTube video about it some time ago. At one terminal of the L-match a connection is made to the BNC center conductor. At the other terminal, a connection is made to the shield side of the BNC. If you trace the signal path through the device it can be seen that the inductors and capacitor are in series. Now we have a Ground Tuning Unit (GTU) and can use binary selection of the inductances, together with rotating the variable capacitor, to determine the combination of inductance and capacitance for easiest tuning of the ground connection.

The inductances available on my L-match are 0.5, 1, 2, 4, 8 microhenries, allowing the inductance to be varied up to 15.5 microhenries in 0.5 microhenry increments. The variable capacitor is a 30-160pF polyvaricon.

Now, with the 8.67ft linear-loaded vertical erected and the “L-match GTU” making the ground connection via a capacitance plate on the ground, it was easy to select values that would allow smooth adjustment of the antenna SWR. It was found that 1 or 1.5 microhenries worked best. With these values selected the polyvaricon could be adjusted around mid-range to easily select best SWR.

A caution!

There’s a gotcha with this technique. My L-match has a switch to connect the top end of the variable capacitor to either the input or output. This is used to enable fast selection of either high or low impedance antennas. Referring to the diagram above, if the switch (not shown) is set to connect the variable capacitor to the left side of the inductors, this technique will not work. The inductors will be out of circuit and only the variable capacitor will be in circuit.

Will it still QSO?

My low-band QMX was dug out of its field pack and hooked up to the revised antenna (8.67ft of vertical window line with the “L-match GTU” providing the “other half” of the antenna. Using the “Tune SWR” feature of the QMX, the best SWR of 1.36:1 was obtained by a very small adjustment of the variable capacitor in the L-match GTU. Then it was time to go hunting. My best contact was in the state of Arizona (the “Arid Zone”?) almost 3000km away from my station in Southern Ontario. Signal reports were 599 each way. My sent report was a genuine 599 suggesting the antenna has good ears. The 599 report I received may have been genuine or perhaps it was just a “contest report”. In any event a good solid contact was made. A second contact into North Carolina only yielded a 549 signal report, but perhaps the low angle radiation pattern favored longer distance contacts.

Notice that the L-match GTU has no RF current meter. I could perhaps have inserted my home brewed RF current meter in circuit, but it wasn’t really necessary. Adjusting the ground current also regulates the radiating element current. Simply adjusting for lowest SWR indication on the radio peaks the radiated energy.

For practical outdoor use while hiking through the woods and rapidly deploying the antenna in clearings, the L-match GTU will be replaced with a much smaller series L-C coupler (2T2C). A 13ft Crappie pole is used to support the antenna. It collapses to the perfect length for carrying inside a fishing pole bag (no surprise there then) and is very lightweight.

There’s another gotcha

When the current distribution on the antenna was viewed in EZNEC it was discovered that the current maximum is in the ground circuit instead of in the radiator. Just like any ground-mounted antenna, this can lead to ground losses and inefficiency. However, the primary design objective was not to seek a Nobel Prize in antenna physics, but to come up with a design that meets the objective of a rapid deployment, simple antenna for hiking through the woods. The Linear-Loaded Monopole may just meet that requirement, but I have other ideas to try first. Stay tuned.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#AmateurRadio #Antennas #Counterpoise #Ground #OutdoorOps #Portable #QMX

A Linear-Loaded Monopole antenna for hiking

There is a lot of information online about Linear-Loaded Dipoles, but I haven’t found anything at all about cutting a Linear-Loaded Dipole in half to create a Linear-Loaded Monopole worked against ground. The legendary L.B. Cebik (W4RNL, SK) published a design philosophy for an 80m Linear-Loaded Monopole, but it didn’t match what I had in mind. So I decided to build one for the purpose of experimentation. Maybe I could make it into a compact, lightweight antenna capable of rapid deployment while hiking – maybe.

What is Linear-Loading?

According to my search engine’s “Search Assist”, “Linear loading is a technique used in antenna design where a portion of the antenna wire is folded back on itself to reduce its overall length while maintaining good electrical performance. This method allows for a shorter antenna that can still operate effectively on the desired frequency.”

Sounds very simple doesn’t it? In the real world, where the RF hits the ether, it gets a little more complicated – especially when venturing outside the box. I could have made life nice and simple by building a Linear-Loaded Dipole; there are lots of designs available online that I could have used. But a dipole is too large for agile, rapid deployments; it needs a taller pole which, in turn, requires pegging into the ground and guy wires. I could use a tree limb for support, but only if suitable trees are available; often they are not. No, my requirement for a very simple hiking antenna implies a vertical antenna – a short vertical antenna.

Short antennas are easy to build; simply add a loading coil at the base and Bob’s your uncle. But that won’t qualify for my purposes. Short loaded antennas have a reduced radiation resistance and ohmic loss in the coil – they are inefficient. So how to shorten an antenna while maintaining efficiency? That’s where linear loading comes into play. A linear-loaded antenna is almost as efficient as a regular version.

How to build a Linear-Loaded Monopole?

It should have been “EZ-PZ”. Just take the dimensions from any of the online designs for a Linear-Loaded Dipole and cut them in half. That’s where I started. For a 20 meter antenna, a length of around 11 feet of window line, shorted at one end, is a good starting point. I hauled it up the mast in my newly glacier-free backyard, attached a counterpoise wire and started trimming. Between snips the resonant frequency was monitored on my RigExpert antenna analyzer. I use the term “resonant frequency” loosely in this context. The expected impedance of a quarter-wave vertical is around 37 ohms which implies there will be some reactive component to the impedance. I searched for a dip in SWR over a wide frequency range until it was possible to locate where the antenna was “resonant”.

Home made ladder line. The separators are made of shrink wrap heated with a Weller soldering gun with plastic welding tip. Lots of work and not very elegant, but practical and cheap!

So long John?

A low SWR in the region of the bottom end of the 20 meter band was the target, but the dip in the curve was below the bottom of the band – way below. I snipped and snipped until that dip fell where it was needed. Then the counterpoise length was adjusted until the lowest SWR was obtained. How long was my ladder line? A large pile of snipped ladder line lay on the grass beneath the pole. When I took the antenna down, laid it out on the ground and measured its length it was quite a surprise to see the ladder line radiator was only 8.67ft (2.64m) long. And the counterpoise length was 18ft (5.5m).

Jingo-la-ba!

Will it QSO? I fired a smidgen less than five watts into it and received a response from a station somewhere in the US with an encouraging signal report. Well, at least it “works”. But now came the next step. That pesky 18ft counterpoise had to go, to be replaced with the 2T2C (Tuned Tank Circuit Coupler) described in the last post.

A new challenge

The 2T2C ground coupler was directly connected to the ground side of the short coax feedline and a further wire was added to connect to a small capacitance plate on the ground. Life is complicated and then you die, so why do I insist on adding more complications? It’s called experimentation – experiment and learn! I learned. I learned that my choice of inductance and capacitance for the 2T2C resulted in impossibly sharp tuning of the ground circuit. The 2T2C needed a design modification to reduce the inductance and increase the capacitance. Spreadsheet modeling suggested this would make the 2T2C easier to adjust. I needed to confirm that before rebuilding the 2T2C, but how?

L-match innovation

The answer came in the form of a variable L-match that I built quite recently. It has switch selectable inductors and a variable capacitor. It could be adapted to fit this bill very nicely.

This idea was inspired by VK3YE who published a YouTube video about it some time ago. At one terminal of the L-match a connection is made to the BNC center conductor. At the other terminal, a connection is made to the shield side of the BNC. If you trace the signal path through the device it can be seen that the inductors and capacitor are in series. Now we have a Ground Tuning Unit (GTU) and can use binary selection of the inductances, together with rotating the variable capacitor, to determine the combination of inductance and capacitance for easiest tuning of the ground connection.

The inductances available on my L-match are 0.5, 1, 2, 4, 8 microhenries, allowing the inductance to be varied up to 15.5 microhenries in 0.5 microhenry increments. The variable capacitor is a 30-160pF polyvaricon.

Now, with the 8.67ft linear-loaded vertical erected and the “L-match GTU” making the ground connection via a capacitance plate on the ground, it was easy to select values that would allow smooth adjustment of the antenna SWR. It was found that 1 or 1.5 microhenries worked best. With these values selected the polyvaricon could be adjusted around mid-range to easily select best SWR.

A caution!

There’s a gotcha with this technique. My L-match has a switch to connect the top end of the variable capacitor to either the input or output. This is used to enable fast selection of either high or low impedance antennas. Referring to the diagram above, if the switch (not shown) is set to connect the variable capacitor to the left side of the inductors, this technique will not work. The inductors will be out of circuit and only the variable capacitor will be in circuit.

Will it still QSO?

My low-band QMX was dug out of its field pack and hooked up to the revised antenna (8.67ft of vertical window line with the “L-match GTU” providing the “other half” of the antenna. Using the “Tune SWR” feature of the QMX, the best SWR of 1.36:1 was obtained by a very small adjustment of the variable capacitor in the L-match GTU. Then it was time to go hunting. My best contact was in the state of Arizona (the “Arid Zone”?) almost 3000km away from my station in Southern Ontario. Signal reports were 599 each way. My sent report was a genuine 599 suggesting the antenna has good ears. The 599 report I received may have been genuine or perhaps it was just a “contest report”. In any event a good solid contact was made. A second contact into North Carolina only yielded a 549 signal report, but perhaps the low angle radiation pattern favored longer distance contacts.

Notice that the L-match GTU has no RF current meter. I could perhaps have inserted my home brewed RF current meter in circuit, but it wasn’t really necessary. Adjusting the ground current also regulates the radiating element current. Simply adjusting for lowest SWR indication on the radio peaks the radiated energy.

For practical outdoor use while hiking through the woods and rapidly deploying the antenna in clearings, the L-match GTU will be replaced with a much smaller series L-C coupler (2T2C). A 13ft Crappie pole is used to support the antenna. It collapses to the perfect length for carrying inside a fishing pole bag (no surprise there then) and is very lightweight.

There’s another gotcha

When the current distribution on the antenna was viewed in EZNEC it was discovered that the current maximum is in the ground circuit instead of in the radiator. Just like any ground-mounted antenna, this can lead to ground losses and inefficiency. However, the primary design objective was not to seek a Nobel Prize in antenna physics, but to come up with a design that meets the objective of a rapid deployment, simple antenna for hiking through the woods. The Linear-Loaded Monopole may just meet that requirement, but I have other ideas to try first. Stay tuned.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#AmateurRadio #Antennas #Counterpoise #Ground #OutdoorOps #Portable #QMX

A Linear-Loaded Monopole antenna for hiking

There is a lot of information online about Linear-Loaded Dipoles, but I haven’t found anything at all about cutting a Linear-Loaded Dipole in half to create a Linear-Loaded Monopole worked against ground. The legendary L.B. Cebik (W4RNL, SK) published a design philosophy for an 80m Linear-Loaded Monopole, but it didn’t match what I had in mind. So I decided to build one for the purpose of experimentation. Maybe I could make it into a compact, lightweight antenna capable of rapid deployment while hiking – maybe.

What is Linear-Loading?

According to my search engine’s “Search Assist”, “Linear loading is a technique used in antenna design where a portion of the antenna wire is folded back on itself to reduce its overall length while maintaining good electrical performance. This method allows for a shorter antenna that can still operate effectively on the desired frequency.”

Sounds very simple doesn’t it? In the real world, where the RF hits the ether, it gets a little more complicated – especially when venturing outside the box. I could have made life nice and simple by building a Linear-Loaded Dipole; there are lots of designs available online that I could have used. But a dipole is too large for agile, rapid deployments; it needs a taller pole which, in turn, requires pegging into the ground and guy wires. I could use a tree limb for support, but only if suitable trees are available; often they are not. No, my requirement for a very simple hiking antenna implies a vertical antenna – a short vertical antenna.

Short antennas are easy to build; simply add a loading coil at the base and Bob’s your uncle. But that won’t qualify for my purposes. Short loaded antennas have a reduced radiation resistance and ohmic loss in the coil – they are inefficient. So how to shorten an antenna while maintaining efficiency? That’s where linear loading comes into play. A linear-loaded antenna is almost as efficient as a regular version.

How to build a Linear-Loaded Monopole?

It should have been “EZ-PZ”. Just take the dimensions from any of the online designs for a Linear-Loaded Dipole and cut them in half. That’s where I started. For a 20 meter antenna, a length of around 11 feet of window line, shorted at one end, is a good starting point. I hauled it up the mast in my newly glacier-free backyard, attached a counterpoise wire and started trimming. Between snips the resonant frequency was monitored on my RigExpert antenna analyzer. I use the term “resonant frequency” loosely in this context. The expected impedance of a quarter-wave vertical is around 37 ohms which implies there will be some reactive component to the impedance. I searched for a dip in SWR over a wide frequency range until it was possible to locate where the antenna was “resonant”.

Home made ladder line. The separators are made of shrink wrap heated with a Weller soldering gun with plastic welding tip. Lots of work and not very elegant, but practical and cheap!

So long John?

A low SWR in the region of the bottom end of the 20 meter band was the target, but the dip in the curve was below the bottom of the band – way below. I snipped and snipped until that dip fell where it was needed. Then the counterpoise length was adjusted until the lowest SWR was obtained. How long was my ladder line? A large pile of snipped ladder line lay on the grass beneath the pole. When I took the antenna down, laid it out on the ground and measured its length it was quite a surprise to see the ladder line radiator was only 8.67ft (2.64m) long. And the counterpoise length was 18ft (5.5m).

Jingo-la-ba!

Will it QSO? I fired a smidgen less than five watts into it and received a response from a station somewhere in the US with an encouraging signal report. Well, at least it “works”. But now came the next step. That pesky 18ft counterpoise had to go, to be replaced with the 2T2C (Tuned Tank Circuit Coupler) described in the last post.

A new challenge

The 2T2C ground coupler was directly connected to the ground side of the short coax feedline and a further wire was added to connect to a small capacitance plate on the ground. Life is complicated and then you die, so why do I insist on adding more complications? It’s called experimentation – experiment and learn! I learned. I learned that my choice of inductance and capacitance for the 2T2C resulted in impossibly sharp tuning of the ground circuit. The 2T2C needed a design modification to reduce the inductance and increase the capacitance. Spreadsheet modeling suggested this would make the 2T2C easier to adjust. I needed to confirm that before rebuilding the 2T2C, but how?

L-match innovation

The answer came in the form of a variable L-match that I built quite recently. It has switch selectable inductors and a variable capacitor. It could be adapted to fit this bill very nicely.

This idea was inspired by VK3YE who published a YouTube video about it some time ago. At one terminal of the L-match a connection is made to the BNC center conductor. At the other terminal, a connection is made to the shield side of the BNC. If you trace the signal path through the device it can be seen that the inductors and capacitor are in series. Now we have a Ground Tuning Unit (GTU) and can use binary selection of the inductances, together with rotating the variable capacitor, to determine the combination of inductance and capacitance for easiest tuning of the ground connection.

The inductances available on my L-match are 0.5, 1, 2, 4, 8 microhenries, allowing the inductance to be varied up to 15.5 microhenries in 0.5 microhenry increments. The variable capacitor is a 30-160pF polyvaricon.

Now, with the 8.67ft linear-loaded vertical erected and the “L-match GTU” making the ground connection via a capacitance plate on the ground, it was easy to select values that would allow smooth adjustment of the antenna SWR. It was found that 1 or 1.5 microhenries worked best. With these values selected the polyvaricon could be adjusted around mid-range to easily select best SWR.

A caution!

There’s a gotcha with this technique. My L-match has a switch to connect the top end of the variable capacitor to either the input or output. This is used to enable fast selection of either high or low impedance antennas. Referring to the diagram above, if the switch (not shown) is set to connect the variable capacitor to the left side of the inductors, this technique will not work. The inductors will be out of circuit and only the variable capacitor will be in circuit.

Will it still QSO?

My low-band QMX was dug out of its field pack and hooked up to the revised antenna (8.67ft of vertical window line with the “L-match GTU” providing the “other half” of the antenna. Using the “Tune SWR” feature of the QMX, the best SWR of 1.36:1 was obtained by a very small adjustment of the variable capacitor in the L-match GTU. Then it was time to go hunting. My best contact was in the state of Arizona (the “Arid Zone”?) almost 3000km away from my station in Southern Ontario. Signal reports were 599 each way. My sent report was a genuine 599 suggesting the antenna has good ears. The 599 report I received may have been genuine or perhaps it was just a “contest report”. In any event a good solid contact was made. A second contact into North Carolina only yielded a 549 signal report, but perhaps the low angle radiation pattern favored longer distance contacts.

Notice that the L-match GTU has no RF current meter. I could perhaps have inserted my home brewed RF current meter in circuit, but it wasn’t really necessary. Adjusting the ground current also regulates the radiating element current. Simply adjusting for lowest SWR indication on the radio peaks the radiated energy.

For practical outdoor use while hiking through the woods and rapidly deploying the antenna in clearings, the L-match GTU will be replaced with a much smaller series L-C coupler (2T2C). A 13ft Crappie pole is used to support the antenna. It collapses to the perfect length for carrying inside a fishing pole bag (no surprise there then) and is very lightweight.

There’s another gotcha

When the current distribution on the antenna was viewed in EZNEC it was discovered that the current maximum is in the ground circuit instead of in the radiator. Just like any ground-mounted antenna, this can lead to ground losses and inefficiency. However, the primary design objective was not to seek a Nobel Prize in antenna physics, but to come up with a design that meets the objective of a rapid deployment, simple antenna for hiking through the woods. The Linear-Loaded Monopole may just meet that requirement, but I have other ideas to try first. Stay tuned.

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#AmateurRadio #Antennas #Counterpoise #Ground #OutdoorOps #Portable #QMX

The “tootie-toosie” and the Hiking Antenna

My favorite way of operating is to hike into the woods, find a clearing, set up a quick and easy antenna, make one or more contacts and move on. Well, to be honest, I might pause long enough at a back country waypoint to get out my Aeropress and brew up a refreshing cup of Joe.

To do this my antenna must be simple, compact, lightweight and (hopefully) efficient. The simplest arrangement that meets those criteria is an end-fed wire, but quite often the trees are not tall enough, or contain dense brush in which wires can become entangled. I needed something compact and self-contained that is easy to carry into and set up in a dense wooded area.

I came up with a couple of ideas. First up to bat was a Linear-Loaded Monopole (LLM: no, not a Lunar Landing Module). The LLM is a recent bizarre invention that escaped from my basement skunk works lab and made its virgin QSO in the outback (out in my backyard). But I also had another idea on deck – a converted photo lighting tripod with short whip that I used very successfully out in the field last summer.

Hiking antenna 01: a Linear-Loaded Monopole Hiking antenna 02: 13ft tripod/whip

Other craft ale inspired ideas may enter the fray during the course of the coming weeks and months but, for now, let’s discuss these two strange RF launch systems.

A rapid deployment hiking antenna does not share the same design imperatives as other less temporary antennas. The efficiency – the proportion of energy radiated compared to the amount delivered to the antenna by the transceiver – is obviously important, especially since my transient operating base will be primarily QRP. Rapid deployment is the key objective; it must be very fast to set up and tear down. Hiking expeditions often take me well away from my vehicle and any road. I operate in areas that are heavily forested and patrolled by sometimes aggressive black-coated guardians with big teeth and long sharp claws.

Another requirement that factors into the design is a small ground footprint. Trails in these parts are often shrinkingly narrow, rocky, uneven and sometimes covered in mud or pools of rainwater. Laying out a system of radials on the ground is not an attractive proposition and sometimes it is next to impossible. In a recent post (Link: Be gone pesky radials!) we introduced an alternative using a Ground Tuning Unit (GTU). Well, that’s all fine and dandy but the GTU I had built is a a little big and heavy for carrying down a trail. I challenged myself to come up with an alternative.

Most of my outdoor operating time is spent on one band: 20 meters, so I wondered whether it would be possible to design and build a much simplified alternative to the GTU that would be very small, very light and serve the same purpose. I came up with something that met those criteria very well indeed.

Enter the “tooty-toosie”

The “tootie-toosie”, or 2T2C is a Tuned Tank Circuit Coupler. The idea involves a tank circuit designed to resonate at a desired frequency. The frequency I targeted was 14.060 MHz which is the CW calling frequency in the 20-meter band. This L-C circuit is actually a series connected resonator so maybe not strictly a “tank” circuit but I liked the “tootie-toosie” name anyway.

It is actually quite difficult to wind an inductor and select a capacitance for resonance on a specific frequency. Instead I targeted the bottom end of 20m (I am a CW op). Component tolerances limit the accuracy so I gave it my best shot and the end result was quite good. A simple L-C resonant circuit will have a fairly low Q and that will give some leeway in the frequency response. I measured the finished project on a nanoVNA and the peak in the curve showed a useful bandwidth at the bottom end of 20m.

I had already designed a great little tool to assist in a project like this. It is a LibreOffice Calc spreadsheet that will compute the resonant frequency of an L-C tank circuit, or the capacitance required with a known inductance to resonate at a desired frequency; or the inductance required with a known capacitance to resonate at a desired frequency.

I plugged in some parameters to come up with component values needed then began construction.

20m 2T2C ground coupler

Just like with previous projects I didn’t have the correct toroidal cores in my component drawer. And just like with those previous projects I leaned on my inner MacGyver to find a solution. T37-2 powdered iron cores were the best I could find and, just like before, I stacked multiple cores together to make a bigger aggregate core. As I understand it, inductors wound on toroidal cores perform best when as much of the winding as possible lies within the core. That gave me an idea. If I built a MacGyver version of a binocular core most of the winding will be inside the core. Could that work?

MacGyver inspired binocular core

Here is how it came together. Two tightly stacked sets of three T37-2 powdered iron cores were put together and secured with electrical tape. Then thin enameled copper wire was wound through the cores until the cores were full of wire. [By the way, the enameled copper wire was scrounged by unwinding old surplus transformers I had in my junque drawer]. I had no idea whether this would work but I gave it a try anyway. The inductance measured on my L, C meter was 29 microhenries.

The tuned circuit calculator told me that was probably too much inductance, but it would be easy to reduce it by unwinding a few turns of wire. I wanted to use a 10pF ceramic capacitor (I have hundreds of them) so I needed only about 13 microhenries in the inductor.

After carefully unwinding the cores and measuring the inductance I got it down very close to 13 microhenries. The capacitor and inductor were quickly soldered together in series to create my tuned circuit.

About that capacitor

A tiny ceramic disc capacitor looks a little dodgy in this application. It has to carry the full AC current flowing in the ground circuit of whichever hiking antenna is chosen. Operating QRP puts less stress on the capacitor so I am hoping it can carry the load. As a backup a short length of thin speaker wire, or maybe even coax can be substituted in place of the ceramic capacitor.

[UPDATE: the ceramic capacitor has now been replaced with a compression trimmer. The only value I had available is 3-30pF so I reduced the number of turns on the coil so that the trimmer could be adjusted near its top end. Adjustment is quite coarse but it gives some flexibility to peak the ground current fairly accurately.]

First field test

Most of the winter snow that was in my backyard has now melted so I was able to set up the tripod/whip antenna shown in the picture at the top of this post. Last summer this antenna was used with either two raised radials, or four ground radials. Will it work with the 2T2C ground coupler? On the day of the test there was a major solar storm and the bands were silent, but at least it would still be possible to see if the antenna would tune up with the radials replaced by this new arrangement.

This antenna has a radiating element only 13ft long made up of a 9ft Buddipole whip with the remainder coming from the tripod main tube itself. It requires a 4:1 unun and a tuner but has the advantage of operating on multiple bands from 20m up to 10m (but used as a fixed 20m antenna in this experiment).

The test was successful in demonstrating that the antenna with this new fixed, tuned ground system would deliver a low SWR (1.3:1) to keep the transceiver happy. The next step, when the bands cooperate, is a full magic smoke test.

Ham Radio Outside the Box will report back when the hiking antenna options have been exposed to full field conditions. I am looking forward to getting back into the woods with my radio gear after another long, snowy winter!

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#AmateurRadio #Antennas #Counterpoise #CW #Ground #OutdoorOps #Portable

The “tootie-toosie” and the Hiking Antenna

My favorite way of operating is to hike into the woods, find a clearing, set up a quick and easy antenna, make one or more contacts and move on. Well, to be honest, I might pause long enough at a back country waypoint to get out my Aeropress and brew up a refreshing cup of Joe.

To do this my antenna must be simple, compact, lightweight and (hopefully) efficient. The simplest arrangement that meets those criteria is an end-fed wire, but quite often the trees are not tall enough, or contain dense brush in which wires can become entangled. I needed something compact and self-contained that is easy to carry into and set up in a dense wooded area.

I came up with a couple of ideas. First up to bat was a Linear-Loaded Monopole (LLM: no, not a Lunar Landing Module). The LLM is a recent bizarre invention that escaped from my basement skunk works lab and made its virgin QSO in the outback (out in my backyard). But I also had another idea on deck – a converted photo lighting tripod with short whip that I used very successfully out in the field last summer.

Hiking antenna 01: a Linear-Loaded Monopole Hiking antenna 02: 13ft tripod/whip

Other craft ale inspired ideas may enter the fray during the course of the coming weeks and months but, for now, let’s discuss these two strange RF launch systems.

A rapid deployment hiking antenna does not share the same design imperatives as other less temporary antennas. The efficiency – the proportion of energy radiated compared to the amount delivered to the antenna by the transceiver – is obviously important, especially since my transient operating base will be primarily QRP. Rapid deployment is the key objective; it must be very fast to set up and tear down. Hiking expeditions often take me well away from my vehicle and any road. I operate in areas that are heavily forested and patrolled by sometimes aggressive black-coated guardians with big teeth and long sharp claws.

Another requirement that factors into the design is a small ground footprint. Trails in these parts are often shrinkingly narrow, rocky, uneven and sometimes covered in mud or pools of rainwater. Laying out a system of radials on the ground is not an attractive proposition and sometimes it is next to impossible. In a recent post (Link: Be gone pesky radials!) we introduced an alternative using a Ground Tuning Unit (GTU). Well, that’s all fine and dandy but the GTU I had built is a a little big and heavy for carrying down a trail. I challenged myself to come up with an alternative.

Most of my outdoor operating time is spent on one band: 20 meters, so I wondered whether it would be possible to design and build a much simplified alternative to the GTU that would be very small, very light and serve the same purpose. I came up with something that met those criteria very well indeed.

Enter the “tooty-toosie”

The “tootie-toosie”, or 2T2C is a Tuned Tank Circuit Coupler. The idea involves a tank circuit designed to resonate at a desired frequency. The frequency I targeted was 14.060 MHz which is the CW calling frequency in the 20-meter band. This L-C circuit is actually a series connected resonator so maybe not strictly a “tank” circuit but I liked the “tootie-toosie” name anyway.

It is actually quite difficult to wind an inductor and select a capacitance for resonance on a specific frequency. Instead I targeted the bottom end of 20m (I am a CW op). Component tolerances limit the accuracy so I gave it my best shot and the end result was quite good. A simple L-C resonant circuit will have a fairly low Q and that will give some leeway in the frequency response. I measured the finished project on a nanoVNA and the peak in the curve showed a useful bandwidth at the bottom end of 20m.

I had already designed a great little tool to assist in a project like this. It is a LibreOffice Calc spreadsheet that will compute the resonant frequency of an L-C tank circuit, or the capacitance required with a known inductance to resonate at a desired frequency; or the inductance required with a known capacitance to resonate at a desired frequency.

I plugged in some parameters to come up with component values needed then began construction.

20m 2T2C ground coupler

Just like with previous projects I didn’t have the correct toroidal cores in my component drawer. And just like with those previous projects I leaned on my inner MacGyver to find a solution. T37-2 powdered iron cores were the best I could find and, just like before, I stacked multiple cores together to make a bigger aggregate core. As I understand it, inductors wound on toroidal cores perform best when as much of the winding as possible lies within the core. That gave me an idea. If I built a MacGyver version of a binocular core most of the winding will be inside the core. Could that work?

MacGyver inspired binocular core

Here is how it came together. Two tightly stacked sets of three T37-2 powdered iron cores were put together and secured with electrical tape. Then thin enameled copper wire was wound through the cores until the cores were full of wire. [By the way, the enameled copper wire was scrounged by unwinding old surplus transformers I had in my junque drawer]. I had no idea whether this would work but I gave it a try anyway. The inductance measured on my L, C meter was 29 microhenries.

The tuned circuit calculator told me that was probably too much inductance, but it would be easy to reduce it by unwinding a few turns of wire. I wanted to use a 10pF ceramic capacitor (I have hundreds of them) so I needed only about 13 microhenries in the inductor.

After carefully unwinding the cores and measuring the inductance I got it down very close to 13 microhenries. The capacitor and inductor were quickly soldered together in series to create my tuned circuit.

About that capacitor

A tiny ceramic disc capacitor looks a little dodgy in this application. It has to carry the full AC current flowing in the ground circuit of whichever hiking antenna is chosen. Operating QRP puts less stress on the capacitor so I am hoping it can carry the load. As a backup a short length of thin speaker wire, or maybe even coax can be substituted in place of the ceramic capacitor.

[UPDATE: the ceramic capacitor has now been replaced with a compression trimmer. The only value I had available is 3-30pF so I reduced the number of turns on the coil so that the trimmer could be adjusted near its top end. Adjustment is quite coarse but it gives some flexibility to peak the ground current fairly accurately.]

First field test

Most of the winter snow that was in my backyard has now melted so I was able to set up the tripod/whip antenna shown in the picture at the top of this post. Last summer this antenna was used with either two raised radials, or four ground radials. Will it work with the 2T2C ground coupler? On the day of the test there was a major solar storm and the bands were silent, but at least it would still be possible to see if the antenna would tune up with the radials replaced by this new arrangement.

This antenna has a radiating element only 13ft long made up of a 9ft Buddipole whip with the remainder coming from the tripod main tube itself. It requires a 4:1 unun and a tuner but has the advantage of operating on multiple bands from 20m up to 10m (but used as a fixed 20m antenna in this experiment).

The test was successful in demonstrating that the antenna with this new fixed, tuned ground system would deliver a low SWR (1.3:1) to keep the transceiver happy. The next step, when the bands cooperate, is a full magic smoke test.

Ham Radio Outside the Box will report back when the hiking antenna options have been exposed to full field conditions. I am looking forward to getting back into the woods with my radio gear after another long, snowy winter!

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#AmateurRadio #Antennas #Counterpoise #CW #Ground #OutdoorOps #Portable

The “tootie-toosie” and the Hiking Antenna

My favorite way of operating is to hike into the woods, find a clearing, set up a quick and easy antenna, make one or more contacts and move on. Well, to be honest, I might pause long enough at a back country waypoint to get out my Aeropress and brew up a refreshing cup of Joe.

To do this my antenna must be simple, compact, lightweight and (hopefully) efficient. The simplest arrangement that meets those criteria is an end-fed wire, but quite often the trees are not tall enough, or contain dense brush in which wires can become entangled. I needed something compact and self-contained that is easy to carry into and set up in a dense wooded area.

I came up with a couple of ideas. First up to bat was a Linear-Loaded Monopole (LLM: no, not a Lunar Landing Module). The LLM is a recent bizarre invention that escaped from my basement skunk works lab and made its virgin QSO in the outback (out in my backyard). But I also had another idea on deck – a converted photo lighting tripod with short whip that I used very successfully out in the field last summer.

Hiking antenna 01: a Linear-Loaded Monopole Hiking antenna 02: 13ft tripod/whip

Other craft ale inspired ideas may enter the fray during the course of the coming weeks and months but, for now, let’s discuss these two strange RF launch systems.

A rapid deployment hiking antenna does not share the same design imperatives as other less temporary antennas. The efficiency – the proportion of energy radiated compared to the amount delivered to the antenna by the transceiver – is obviously important, especially since my transient operating base will be primarily QRP. Rapid deployment is the key objective; it must be very fast to set up and tear down. Hiking expeditions often take me well away from my vehicle and any road. I operate in areas that are heavily forested and patrolled by sometimes aggressive black-coated guardians with big teeth and long sharp claws.

Another requirement that factors into the design is a small ground footprint. Trails in these parts are often shrinkingly narrow, rocky, uneven and sometimes covered in mud or pools of rainwater. Laying out a system of radials on the ground is not an attractive proposition and sometimes it is next to impossible. In a recent post (Link: Be gone pesky radials!) we introduced an alternative using a Ground Tuning Unit (GTU). Well, that’s all fine and dandy but the GTU I had built is a a little big and heavy for carrying down a trail. I challenged myself to come up with an alternative.

Most of my outdoor operating time is spent on one band: 20 meters, so I wondered whether it would be possible to design and build a much simplified alternative to the GTU that would be very small, very light and serve the same purpose. I came up with something that met those criteria very well indeed.

Enter the “tooty-toosie”

The “tootie-toosie”, or 2T2C is a Tuned Tank Circuit Coupler. The idea involves a tank circuit designed to resonate at a desired frequency. The frequency I targeted was 14.060 MHz which is the CW calling frequency in the 20-meter band. This L-C circuit is actually a series connected resonator so maybe not strictly a “tank” circuit but I liked the “tootie-toosie” name anyway.

It is actually quite difficult to wind an inductor and select a capacitance for resonance on a specific frequency. Instead I targeted the bottom end of 20m (I am a CW op). Component tolerances limit the accuracy so I gave it my best shot and the end result was quite good. A simple L-C resonant circuit will have a fairly low Q and that will give some leeway in the frequency response. I measured the finished project on a nanoVNA and the peak in the curve showed a useful bandwidth at the bottom end of 20m.

I had already designed a great little tool to assist in a project like this. It is a LibreOffice Calc spreadsheet that will compute the resonant frequency of an L-C tank circuit, or the capacitance required with a known inductance to resonate at a desired frequency; or the inductance required with a known capacitance to resonate at a desired frequency.

I plugged in some parameters to come up with component values needed then began construction.

20m 2T2C ground coupler

Just like with previous projects I didn’t have the correct toroidal cores in my component drawer. And just like with those previous projects I leaned on my inner MacGyver to find a solution. T37-2 powdered iron cores were the best I could find and, just like before, I stacked multiple cores together to make a bigger aggregate core. As I understand it, inductors wound on toroidal cores perform best when as much of the winding as possible lies within the core. That gave me an idea. If I built a MacGyver version of a binocular core most of the winding will be inside the core. Could that work?

MacGyver inspired binocular core

Here is how it came together. Two tightly stacked sets of three T37-2 powdered iron cores were put together and secured with electrical tape. Then thin enameled copper wire was wound through the cores until the cores were full of wire. [By the way, the enameled copper wire was scrounged by unwinding old surplus transformers I had in my junque drawer]. I had no idea whether this would work but I gave it a try anyway. The inductance measured on my L, C meter was 29 microhenries.

The tuned circuit calculator told me that was probably too much inductance, but it would be easy to reduce it by unwinding a few turns of wire. I wanted to use a 10pF ceramic capacitor (I have hundreds of them) so I needed only about 13 microhenries in the inductor.

After carefully unwinding the cores and measuring the inductance I got it down very close to 13 microhenries. The capacitor and inductor were quickly soldered together in series to create my tuned circuit.

About that capacitor

A tiny ceramic disc capacitor looks a little dodgy in this application. It has to carry the full AC current flowing in the ground circuit of whichever hiking antenna is chosen. Operating QRP puts less stress on the capacitor so I am hoping it can carry the load. As a backup a short length of thin speaker wire, or maybe even coax can be substituted in place of the ceramic capacitor.

[UPDATE: the ceramic capacitor has now been replaced with a compression trimmer. The only value I had available is 3-30pF so I reduced the number of turns on the coil so that the trimmer could be adjusted near its top end. Adjustment is quite coarse but it gives some flexibility to peak the ground current fairly accurately.]

First field test

Most of the winter snow that was in my backyard has now melted so I was able to set up the tripod/whip antenna shown in the picture at the top of this post. Last summer this antenna was used with either two raised radials, or four ground radials. Will it work with the 2T2C ground coupler? On the day of the test there was a major solar storm and the bands were silent, but at least it would still be possible to see if the antenna would tune up with the radials replaced by this new arrangement.

This antenna has a radiating element only 13ft long made up of a 9ft Buddipole whip with the remainder coming from the tripod main tube itself. It requires a 4:1 unun and a tuner but has the advantage of operating on multiple bands from 20m up to 10m (but used as a fixed 20m antenna in this experiment).

The test was successful in demonstrating that the antenna with this new fixed, tuned ground system would deliver a low SWR (1.3:1) to keep the transceiver happy. The next step, when the bands cooperate, is a full magic smoke test.

Ham Radio Outside the Box will report back when the hiking antenna options have been exposed to full field conditions. I am looking forward to getting back into the woods with my radio gear after another long, snowy winter!

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#AmateurRadio #Antennas #Counterpoise #CW #Ground #OutdoorOps #Portable

The “tootie-toosie” and the Hiking Antenna

My favorite way of operating is to hike into the woods, find a clearing, set up a quick and easy antenna, make one or more contacts and move on. Well, to be honest, I might pause long enough at a back country waypoint to get out my Aeropress and brew up a refreshing cup of Joe.

To do this my antenna must be simple, compact, lightweight and (hopefully) efficient. The simplest arrangement that meets those criteria is an end-fed wire, but quite often the trees are not tall enough, or contain dense brush in which wires can become entangled. I needed something compact and self-contained that is easy to carry into and set up in a dense wooded area.

I came up with a couple of ideas. First up to bat was a Linear-Loaded Monopole (LLM: no, not a Lunar Landing Module). The LLM is a recent bizarre invention that escaped from my basement skunk works lab and made its virgin QSO in the outback (out in my backyard). But I also had another idea on deck – a converted photo lighting tripod with short whip that I used very successfully out in the field last summer.

Hiking antenna 01: a Linear-Loaded Monopole Hiking antenna 02: 13ft tripod/whip

Other craft ale inspired ideas may enter the fray during the course of the coming weeks and months but, for now, let’s discuss these two strange RF launch systems.

A rapid deployment hiking antenna does not share the same design imperatives as other less temporary antennas. The efficiency – the proportion of energy radiated compared to the amount delivered to the antenna by the transceiver – is obviously important, especially since my transient operating base will be primarily QRP. Rapid deployment is the key objective; it must be very fast to set up and tear down. Hiking expeditions often take me well away from my vehicle and any road. I operate in areas that are heavily forested and patrolled by sometimes aggressive black-coated guardians with big teeth and long sharp claws.

Another requirement that factors into the design is a small ground footprint. Trails in these parts are often shrinkingly narrow, rocky, uneven and sometimes covered in mud or pools of rainwater. Laying out a system of radials on the ground is not an attractive proposition and sometimes it is next to impossible. In a recent post (Link: Be gone pesky radials!) we introduced an alternative using a Ground Tuning Unit (GTU). Well, that’s all fine and dandy but the GTU I had built is a a little big and heavy for carrying down a trail. I challenged myself to come up with an alternative.

Most of my outdoor operating time is spent on one band: 20 meters, so I wondered whether it would be possible to design and build a much simplified alternative to the GTU that would be very small, very light and serve the same purpose. I came up with something that met those criteria very well indeed.

Enter the “tooty-toosie”

The “tootie-toosie”, or 2T2C is a Tuned Tank Circuit Coupler. The idea involves a tank circuit designed to resonate at a desired frequency. The frequency I targeted was 14.060 MHz which is the CW calling frequency in the 20-meter band. This L-C circuit is actually a series connected resonator so maybe not strictly a “tank” circuit but I liked the “tootie-toosie” name anyway.

It is actually quite difficult to wind an inductor and select a capacitance for resonance on a specific frequency. Instead I targeted the bottom end of 20m (I am a CW op). Component tolerances limit the accuracy so I gave it my best shot and the end result was quite good. A simple L-C resonant circuit will have a fairly low Q and that will give some leeway in the frequency response. I measured the finished project on a nanoVNA and the peak in the curve showed a useful bandwidth at the bottom end of 20m.

I had already designed a great little tool to assist in a project like this. It is a LibreOffice Calc spreadsheet that will compute the resonant frequency of an L-C tank circuit, or the capacitance required with a known inductance to resonate at a desired frequency; or the inductance required with a known capacitance to resonate at a desired frequency.

I plugged in some parameters to come up with component values needed then began construction.

20m 2T2C ground coupler

Just like with previous projects I didn’t have the correct toroidal cores in my component drawer. And just like with those previous projects I leaned on my inner MacGyver to find a solution. T37-2 powdered iron cores were the best I could find and, just like before, I stacked multiple cores together to make a bigger aggregate core. As I understand it, inductors wound on toroidal cores perform best when as much of the winding as possible lies within the core. That gave me an idea. If I built a MacGyver version of a binocular core most of the winding will be inside the core. Could that work?

MacGyver inspired binocular core

Here is how it came together. Two tightly stacked sets of three T37-2 powdered iron cores were put together and secured with electrical tape. Then thin enameled copper wire was wound through the cores until the cores were full of wire. [By the way, the enameled copper wire was scrounged by unwinding old surplus transformers I had in my junque drawer]. I had no idea whether this would work but I gave it a try anyway. The inductance measured on my L, C meter was 29 microhenries.

The tuned circuit calculator told me that was probably too much inductance, but it would be easy to reduce it by unwinding a few turns of wire. I wanted to use a 10pF ceramic capacitor (I have hundreds of them) so I needed only about 13 microhenries in the inductor.

After carefully unwinding the cores and measuring the inductance I got it down very close to 13 microhenries. The capacitor and inductor were quickly soldered together in series to create my tuned circuit.

About that capacitor

A tiny ceramic disc capacitor looks a little dodgy in this application. It has to carry the full AC current flowing in the ground circuit of whichever hiking antenna is chosen. Operating QRP puts less stress on the capacitor so I am hoping it can carry the load. As a backup a short length of thin speaker wire, or maybe even coax can be substituted in place of the ceramic capacitor.

[UPDATE: the ceramic capacitor has now been replaced with a compression trimmer. The only value I had available is 3-30pF so I reduced the number of turns on the coil so that the trimmer could be adjusted near its top end. Adjustment is quite coarse but it gives some flexibility to peak the ground current fairly accurately.]

First field test

Most of the winter snow that was in my backyard has now melted so I was able to set up the tripod/whip antenna shown in the picture at the top of this post. Last summer this antenna was used with either two raised radials, or four ground radials. Will it work with the 2T2C ground coupler? On the day of the test there was a major solar storm and the bands were silent, but at least it would still be possible to see if the antenna would tune up with the radials replaced by this new arrangement.

This antenna has a radiating element only 13ft long made up of a 9ft Buddipole whip with the remainder coming from the tripod main tube itself. It requires a 4:1 unun and a tuner but has the advantage of operating on multiple bands from 20m up to 10m (but used as a fixed 20m antenna in this experiment).

The test was successful in demonstrating that the antenna with this new fixed, tuned ground system would deliver a low SWR (1.3:1) to keep the transceiver happy. The next step, when the bands cooperate, is a full magic smoke test.

Ham Radio Outside the Box will report back when the hiking antenna options have been exposed to full field conditions. I am looking forward to getting back into the woods with my radio gear after another long, snowy winter!

Help support HamRadioOutsidetheBox

No “tip-jar”, “buy me a coffee”, Patreon, or Amazon links here. I enjoy my hobby and I enjoy writing about it. If you would like to support this blog please follow/subscribe using the link at the bottom of my home page, or like, comment (links at the bottom of each post), repost or share links to my posts on social media. If you would like to email me directly you will find my email address on my QRZ.com page. Thank you!

The following copyright notice applies to all content on this blog.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

#AmateurRadio #Antennas #Counterpoise #CW #Ground #OutdoorOps #Portable

The “tootie-toosie” and the Hiking Antenna

My favorite way of operating is to hike into the woods, find a clearing, set up a quick and easy antenna, make one or more contacts and move on. Well, to be honest, I might pause long enough at a back country waypoint to get out my Aeropress and brew up a refreshing cup of Joe.

To do this my antenna must be simple, compact, lightweight and (hopefully) efficient. The simplest arrangement that meets those criteria is an end-fed wire, but quite often the trees are not tall enough, or contain dense brush in which wires can become entangled. I needed something compact and self-contained that is easy to carry into and set up in a dense wooded area.

I came up with a couple of ideas. First up to bat was a Linear-Loaded Monopole (LLM: no, not a Lunar Landing Module). The LLM is a recent bizarre invention that escaped from my basement skunk works lab and made its virgin QSO in the outback (out in my backyard). But I also had another idea on deck – a converted photo lighting tripod with short whip that I used very successfully out in the field last summer.

Hiking antenna 01: a Linear-Loaded Monopole Hiking antenna 02: 13ft tripod/whip

Other craft ale inspired ideas may enter the fray during the course of the coming weeks and months but, for now, let’s discuss these two strange RF launch systems.

A rapid deployment hiking antenna does not share the same design imperatives as other less temporary antennas. The efficiency – the proportion of energy radiated compared to the amount delivered to the antenna by the transceiver – is obviously important, especially since my transient operating base will be primarily QRP. Rapid deployment is the key objective; it must be very fast to set up and tear down. Hiking expeditions often take me well away from my vehicle and any road. I operate in areas that are heavily forested and patrolled by sometimes aggressive black-coated guardians with big teeth and long sharp claws.

Another requirement that factors into the design is a small ground footprint. Trails in these parts are often shrinkingly narrow, rocky, uneven and sometimes covered in mud or pools of rainwater. Laying out a system of radials on the ground is not an attractive proposition and sometimes it is next to impossible. In a recent post (Link: Be gone pesky radials!) we introduced an alternative using a Ground Tuning Unit (GTU). Well, that’s all fine and dandy but the GTU I had built is a a little big and heavy for carrying down a trail. I challenged myself to come up with an alternative.

Most of my outdoor operating time is spent on one band: 20 meters, so I wondered whether it would be possible to design and build a much simplified alternative to the GTU that would be very small, very light and serve the same purpose. I came up with something that met those criteria very well indeed.

Enter the “tooty-toosie”

The “tootie-toosie”, or 2T2C is a Tuned Tank Circuit Coupler. The idea involves a tank circuit designed to resonate at a desired frequency. The frequency I targeted was 14.060 MHz which is the CW calling frequency in the 20-meter band. This L-C circuit is actually a series connected resonator so maybe not strictly a “tank” circuit but I liked the “tootie-toosie” name anyway.

It is actually quite difficult to wind an inductor and select a capacitance for resonance on a specific frequency. Instead I targeted the bottom end of 20m (I am a CW op). Component tolerances limit the accuracy so I gave it my best shot and the end result was quite good. A simple L-C resonant circuit will have a fairly low Q and that will give some leeway in the frequency response. I measured the finished project on a nanoVNA and the peak in the curve showed a useful bandwidth at the bottom end of 20m.

I had already designed a great little tool to assist in a project like this. It is a LibreOffice Calc spreadsheet that will compute the resonant frequency of an L-C tank circuit, or the capacitance required with a known inductance to resonate at a desired frequency; or the inductance required with a known capacitance to resonate at a desired frequency.

I plugged in some parameters to come up with component values needed then began construction.

20m 2T2C ground coupler

Just like with previous projects I didn’t have the correct toroidal cores in my component drawer. And just like with those previous projects I leaned on my inner MacGyver to find a solution. T37-2 powdered iron cores were the best I could find and, just like before, I stacked multiple cores together to make a bigger aggregate core. As I understand it, inductors wound on toroidal cores perform best when as much of the winding as possible lies within the core. That gave me an idea. If I built a MacGyver version of a binocular core most of the winding will be inside the core. Could that work?

MacGyver inspired binocular core

Here is how it came together. Two tightly stacked sets of three T37-2 powdered iron cores were put together and secured with electrical tape. Then thin enameled copper wire was wound through the cores until the cores were full of wire. [By the way, the enameled copper wire was scrounged by unwinding old surplus transformers I had in my junque drawer]. I had no idea whether this would work but I gave it a try anyway. The inductance measured on my L, C meter was 29 microhenries.

The tuned circuit calculator told me that was probably too much inductance, but it would be easy to reduce it by unwinding a few turns of wire. I wanted to use a 10pF ceramic capacitor (I have hundreds of them) so I needed only about 13 microhenries in the inductor.

After carefully unwinding the cores and measuring the inductance I got it down very close to 13 microhenries. The capacitor and inductor were quickly soldered together in series to create my tuned circuit.

About that capacitor

A tiny ceramic disc capacitor looks a little dodgy in this application. It has to carry the full AC current flowing in the ground circuit of whichever hiking antenna is chosen. Operating QRP puts less stress on the capacitor so I am hoping it can carry the load. As a backup a short length of thin speaker wire, or maybe even coax can be substituted in place of the ceramic capacitor.

[UPDATE: the ceramic capacitor has now been replaced with a compression trimmer. The only value I had available is 3-30pF so I reduced the number of turns on the coil so that the trimmer could be adjusted near its top end. Adjustment is quite coarse but it gives some flexibility to peak the ground current fairly accurately.]

First field test

Most of the winter snow that was in my backyard has now melted so I was able to set up the tripod/whip antenna shown in the picture at the top of this post. Last summer this antenna was used with either two raised radials, or four ground radials. Will it work with the 2T2C ground coupler? On the day of the test there was a major solar storm and the bands were silent, but at least it would still be possible to see if the antenna would tune up with the radials replaced by this new arrangement.

This antenna has a radiating element only 13ft long made up of a 9ft Buddipole whip with the remainder coming from the tripod main tube itself. It requires a 4:1 unun and a tuner but has the advantage of operating on multiple bands from 20m up to 10m (but used as a fixed 20m antenna in this experiment).

The test was successful in demonstrating that the antenna with this new fixed, tuned ground system would deliver a low SWR (1.3:1) to keep the transceiver happy. The next step, when the bands cooperate, is a full magic smoke test.

Ham Radio Outside the Box will report back when the hiking antenna options have been exposed to full field conditions. I am looking forward to getting back into the woods with my radio gear after another long, snowy winter!

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