home.social

#protoboard — Public Fediverse posts

Live and recent posts from across the Fediverse tagged #protoboard, aggregated by home.social.

  1. I do not believe I was drunk while laying out this circuit on a protoboard.

    But I'm having difficulty coming up with an alternate hypothesis for how I'm finding so many errors in the layout.

    #electronics #hobby #diy #drunk #hypothesis #errors #layout #protoboard

  2. @kris_of_pnictogen

    Here's the #Gerber file if anyone wants to get these made.

    pyropus.ca./temp/protoboard-18x36-48mmx94mm-no-top-copper.zip

    #protoboard

  3. For anyone who's curious, here's some crappy photos of the two boards I made. They're divided up differently than the original in mine, the "volume board" (a better description would be distortion and tone controls) includes the opamps 3a, 3b, 2a, and 2b, plus their surrounding components as well, in addition to everything inside the double lines. Even so, that board is a lot sparser than the "main" board.

    #protoboard #breadboard #circuit

  4. #Confession time...

    I spent ten minutes wondering why I was having such trouble cutting a trace on one of my custom protoboard PCBs - was my knife too dull? Was there something wrong with the board I'm using? Is it connected somewhere that I'm forgetting about?

    I looked at everything multiple times, probing and getting the BEEEEEP of the continuity mode on my meter.

    And then realized the trace *was* successfully severed, it's just it was jumped by a resistor that was only 11 ohms, which is under the threshold my meter considers "continuous". 🙄

    #continuity #test #multimeter #electronics #hobby #oops #fail #protoboard #PCB #trace #cut

  5. When building electronics project for permanent use - i.e. after testing on a solderless breadboard - you normally go to a #soldered perforated board of some type as a #prototype, or even for very-low-volume production.

    There are different types of boards. I dislike "matrix" boards, which are just isolated pads on a grid, i.e. there are no connections between any of them. Some people swear by these; I swear at them.

    I prefer protoboards that have multiple holes per pad (so you can connect multiple component leads without having to add an explicit wire jumper). If they've also got #busses - sets of pads that run the whole length or width of the board - so much the better!

    Some are #crap: laminated paper PCBs where the pads lift off the board if you even try to desolder something you added. Row/column labels missing, or (like I found with some recently) that don't line up between the front and back of the board 😆 , or most egregiously, they don't actually show the pad pattern on the front of the board, so you have to keep flipping it to check your parts are correctly placed. One example below.

    I have some from "BusBoard Prototype Systems" that I like. The SB4 is a 38 x 24 (912 hole) board that is #snappable into quarters. Two of the quarters have rows that are 4-hole, 2-hole, 4-hole. The other two are 5 2-hole pads. Both types have a single bus running along each of the 2 long sides.

    But ...

    1/x

    #electronics #hobby #ProtoBoard #PerfBoard #MatrixBoard #Chinesium

  6. When building electronics project for permanent use - i.e. after testing on a solderless breadboard - you normally go to a #soldered perforated board of some type as a #prototype, or even for very-low-volume production.

    There are different types of boards. I dislike "matrix" boards, which are just isolated pads on a grid, i.e. there are no connections between any of them. Some people swear by these; I swear at them.

    I prefer protoboards that have multiple holes per pad (so you can connect multiple component leads without having to add an explicit wire jumper). If they've also got #busses - sets of pads that run the whole length or width of the board - so much the better!

    Some are #crap: laminated paper PCBs where the pads lift off the board if you even try to desolder something you added. Row/column labels missing, or (like I found with some recently) that don't line up between the front and back of the board 😆 , or most egregiously, they don't actually show the pad pattern on the front of the board, so you have to keep flipping it to check your parts are correctly placed. One example below.

    I have some from "BusBoard Prototype Systems" that I like. The SB4 is a 38 x 24 (912 hole) board that is #snappable into quarters. Two of the quarters have rows that are 4-hole, 2-hole, 4-hole. The other two are 5 2-hole pads. Both types have a single bus running along each of the 2 long sides.

    But ...

    1/x

    #electronics #hobby #ProtoBoard #PerfBoard #MatrixBoard #Chinesium

  7. When building electronics project for permanent use - i.e. after testing on a solderless breadboard - you normally go to a #soldered perforated board of some type as a #prototype, or even for very-low-volume production.

    There are different types of boards. I dislike "matrix" boards, which are just isolated pads on a grid, i.e. there are no connections between any of them. Some people swear by these; I swear at them.

    I prefer protoboards that have multiple holes per pad (so you can connect multiple component leads without having to add an explicit wire jumper). If they've also got #busses - sets of pads that run the whole length or width of the board - so much the better!

    Some are #crap: laminated paper PCBs where the pads lift off the board if you even try to desolder something you added. Row/column labels missing, or (like I found with some recently) that don't line up between the front and back of the board 😆 , or most egregiously, they don't actually show the pad pattern on the front of the board, so you have to keep flipping it to check your parts are correctly placed. One example below.

    I have some from "BusBoard Prototype Systems" that I like. The SB4 is a 38 x 24 (912 hole) board that is #snappable into quarters. Two of the quarters have rows that are 4-hole, 2-hole, 4-hole. The other two are 5 2-hole pads. Both types have a single bus running along each of the 2 long sides.

    But ...

    1/x

    #electronics #hobby #ProtoBoard #PerfBoard #MatrixBoard #Chinesium

  8. When building electronics project for permanent use - i.e. after testing on a solderless breadboard - you normally go to a #soldered perforated board of some type as a #prototype, or even for very-low-volume production.

    There are different types of boards. I dislike "matrix" boards, which are just isolated pads on a grid, i.e. there are no connections between any of them. Some people swear by these; I swear at them.

    I prefer protoboards that have multiple holes per pad (so you can connect multiple component leads without having to add an explicit wire jumper). If they've also got #busses - sets of pads that run the whole length or width of the board - so much the better!

    Some are #crap: laminated paper PCBs where the pads lift off the board if you even try to desolder something you added. Row/column labels missing, or (like I found with some recently) that don't line up between the front and back of the board 😆 , or most egregiously, they don't actually show the pad pattern on the front of the board, so you have to keep flipping it to check your parts are correctly placed. One example below.

    I have some from "BusBoard Prototype Systems" that I like. The SB4 is a 38 x 24 (912 hole) board that is #snappable into quarters. Two of the quarters have rows that are 4-hole, 2-hole, 4-hole. The other two are 5 2-hole pads. Both types have a single bus running along each of the 2 long sides.

    But ...

    1/x

    #electronics #hobby #ProtoBoard #PerfBoard #MatrixBoard #Chinesium

  9. When building electronics project for permanent use - i.e. after testing on a solderless breadboard - you normally go to a #soldered perforated board of some type as a #prototype, or even for very-low-volume production.

    There are different types of boards. I dislike "matrix" boards, which are just isolated pads on a grid, i.e. there are no connections between any of them. Some people swear by these; I swear at them.

    I prefer protoboards that have multiple holes per pad (so you can connect multiple component leads without having to add an explicit wire jumper). If they've also got #busses - sets of pads that run the whole length or width of the board - so much the better!

    Some are #crap: laminated paper PCBs where the pads lift off the board if you even try to desolder something you added. Row/column labels missing, or (like I found with some recently) that don't line up between the front and back of the board 😆 , or most egregiously, they don't actually show the pad pattern on the front of the board, so you have to keep flipping it to check your parts are correctly placed. One example below.

    I have some from "BusBoard Prototype Systems" that I like. The SB4 is a 38 x 24 (912 hole) board that is #snappable into quarters. Two of the quarters have rows that are 4-hole, 2-hole, 4-hole. The other two are 5 2-hole pads. Both types have a single bus running along each of the 2 long sides.

    But ...

    1/x

    #electronics #hobby #ProtoBoard #PerfBoard #MatrixBoard #Chinesium

  10. I think I found out why these proto boards were so cheap...

    The row and column labels on the top side don't actually match the ones on the bottom side. Column "L" on the top is "N" on the bottom...

    #PCB #ProtoBoard #prototype #board #solder #electronics #cheap #chinesium

  11. Common problem: the microcontroller I selected has just one GPIO less than I would normally need.

    I want to use a nice RGB side LED and drive at least the red and green part (and full off), but I've just got one pin on the MCU for this. I know Charlieplexing, but it is just something for two or more pins.

    Here is what I've come up with: Use a TL431 as comparator to differentiate between low/HiZ and high.

    #electronics #protoboard #analog

  12. Does anyone here know of a good #breadboard starter kit? Kind of interested in doing more #hardware stuff :D

    #protoboard

  13. I spent the weekend cutting copper slug tape into thin strips, sticking them to a piece of cardboard at regular 1.2mm (not 1.27mm) spacing, coating with solder, and carefully aligning them with the zebra connector for a LCD display of a broken DT-830B multimeter clone

    I suppose an alternative would have been to order several PCBs each with a slightly different offset for the zebra connector, and then throw away the ones that were misaligned

  14. That is it i am living in the #Tron universe right now 😅

    Managed to to connect a #esp32 to a #LedStrip added some #PIRsensor and a #WebInterface and now i have my own #diy #iot lights.

    I am amazed how it worked at the first attempt after removing the setup from the breadboard to a soldered #protoboard, something must be wrong for sure, it might catch fire on it's own 🔥

  15. LED Panel Lamp Is A Great Way To Use Protoboard - It’s now possible to source chip-on-board LED modules that have huge light output in a simple, eas... more: hackaday.com/2019/05/13/led-pa #protoboard #ledhacks #lamp #led