Search
400 results for “Stark9837”
-
The next good place to start is Slicer Flow Calibration.
This calibrates your flow and extrusion of your printer. This mostly comes into affect with layer adhesion and adhesion between walls.
If you are noticing gaps between your walls, when using multiple walls, or that your print dimensions are off, this is most likely the problem.
This one is also not that simple to tune, it you need to test it with multiple filaments to get a base line and get something that "almost" works and then tune it further.
I usually tune it to my printer and then to my filament. I do this by calibrating the slicer flow and extrusion width in my slicer for the printer and my extruder and then increasing the extrusion multiplier for each individual filament as I need it.
For example, my extrusion multiplier for #PLA is 1.0 but 1.07 for #ABS.
Slicer Flow Calibration by #TeachingTech on #YouTube:
-
Tuning #LinearAdvance also only involves a single parameter, the K-value.
Tuning the z-offset actually has a few, which you could use moving from a 0.4mm nozzle to a 0.6mm nozzle.
Firstly, you bed needs to be level, or trammed. Your #3dprinter needs to be leveled to ensure that it corrects the flex and warping of your bed.
Secondly, there is the z-fade, recently introduced in #Marline #firmware and other firmware like #klipper
The z-fade allows for a layer-by-layer fade of the correction of the leveling and tramming, to ease out the correction as it becomes less prominent as the layers increase.
I can clearly see this in my prints, with layers below 1.2mm z-height being ugly and layers above that near perfect. As the effects of a non-level bed becomes less prominent.
Thus, it is clear that #LinearAdvance is a good place to start when making this switch. But if you are just starting to tune your printer, rather start with the z-offset and bed-leveling.
-
Tuning #LinearAdvance also only involves a single parameter, the K-value.
Tuning the z-offset actually has a few, which you could use moving from a 0.4mm nozzle to a 0.6mm nozzle.
Firstly, you bed needs to be level, or trammed. Your #3dprinter needs to be leveled to ensure that it corrects the flex and warping of your bed.
Secondly, there is the z-fade, recently introduced in #Marline #firmware and other firmware like #klipper
The z-fade allows for a layer-by-layer fade of the correction of the leveling and tramming, to ease out the correction as it becomes less prominent as the layers increase.
I can clearly see this in my prints, with layers below 1.2mm z-height being ugly and layers above that near perfect. As the effects of a non-level bed becomes less prominent.
Thus, it is clear that #LinearAdvance is a good place to start when making this switch. But if you are just starting to tune your printer, rather start with the z-offset and bed-leveling.
-
Tuning #LinearAdvance also only involves a single parameter, the K-value.
Tuning the z-offset actually has a few, which you could use moving from a 0.4mm nozzle to a 0.6mm nozzle.
Firstly, you bed needs to be level, or trammed. Your #3dprinter needs to be leveled to ensure that it corrects the flex and warping of your bed.
Secondly, there is the z-fade, recently introduced in #Marline #firmware and other firmware like #klipper
The z-fade allows for a layer-by-layer fade of the correction of the leveling and tramming, to ease out the correction as it becomes less prominent as the layers increase.
I can clearly see this in my prints, with layers below 1.2mm z-height being ugly and layers above that near perfect. As the effects of a non-level bed becomes less prominent.
Thus, it is clear that #LinearAdvance is a good place to start when making this switch. But if you are just starting to tune your printer, rather start with the z-offset and bed-leveling.
-
Tuning #LinearAdvance also only involves a single parameter, the K-value.
Tuning the z-offset actually has a few, which you could use moving from a 0.4mm nozzle to a 0.6mm nozzle.
Firstly, you bed needs to be level, or trammed. Your #3dprinter needs to be leveled to ensure that it corrects the flex and warping of your bed.
Secondly, there is the z-fade, recently introduced in #Marline #firmware and other firmware like #klipper
The z-fade allows for a layer-by-layer fade of the correction of the leveling and tramming, to ease out the correction as it becomes less prominent as the layers increase.
I can clearly see this in my prints, with layers below 1.2mm z-height being ugly and layers above that near perfect. As the effects of a non-level bed becomes less prominent.
Thus, it is clear that #LinearAdvance is a good place to start when making this switch. But if you are just starting to tune your printer, rather start with the z-offset and bed-leveling.
-
Tuning #LinearAdvance also only involves a single parameter, the K-value.
Tuning the z-offset actually has a few, which you could use moving from a 0.4mm nozzle to a 0.6mm nozzle.
Firstly, you bed needs to be level, or trammed. Your #3dprinter needs to be leveled to ensure that it corrects the flex and warping of your bed.
Secondly, there is the z-fade, recently introduced in #Marline #firmware and other firmware like #klipper
The z-fade allows for a layer-by-layer fade of the correction of the leveling and tramming, to ease out the correction as it becomes less prominent as the layers increase.
I can clearly see this in my prints, with layers below 1.2mm z-height being ugly and layers above that near perfect. As the effects of a non-level bed becomes less prominent.
Thus, it is clear that #LinearAdvance is a good place to start when making this switch. But if you are just starting to tune your printer, rather start with the z-offset and bed-leveling.
-
Often the first thing to calibrate by many is the z-offset. This is not wrong, but because I already have my z-offset so well tuned for my 0.4mm nozzle at 0.21mm, it isn't too wrong to just use this for my 0.6mm nozzle.
Some would notice that 0.21 is just more than half of 0.4, so 0.3 or something in that range could work for a 0.6mm nozzle.
Could be, but I have found that z-offset is no perfect science and it is just one of those things that you need to test.
But because of the effects and improvements due to #LinearAdvance, I like to tune it first. Because, on a single line you would not notice an incorrect z-offset at all, except if it is completely wrong and you get no bed adhesion at all.
So by eliminating that factor, you can then safely tune the z-offset after Linear Advance
First layer and z-offset by #TeachingTech on #YouTube
https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#firstlayer
-
Often the first thing to calibrate by many is the z-offset. This is not wrong, but because I already have my z-offset so well tuned for my 0.4mm nozzle at 0.21mm, it isn't too wrong to just use this for my 0.6mm nozzle.
Some would notice that 0.21 is just more than half of 0.4, so 0.3 or something in that range could work for a 0.6mm nozzle.
Could be, but I have found that z-offset is no perfect science and it is just one of those things that you need to test.
But because of the effects and improvements due to #LinearAdvance, I like to tune it first. Because, on a single line you would not notice an incorrect z-offset at all, except if it is completely wrong and you get no bed adhesion at all.
So by eliminating that factor, you can then safely tune the z-offset after Linear Advance
First layer and z-offset by #TeachingTech on #YouTube
https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#firstlayer
-
Often the first thing to calibrate by many is the z-offset. This is not wrong, but because I already have my z-offset so well tuned for my 0.4mm nozzle at 0.21mm, it isn't too wrong to just use this for my 0.6mm nozzle.
Some would notice that 0.21 is just more than half of 0.4, so 0.3 or something in that range could work for a 0.6mm nozzle.
Could be, but I have found that z-offset is no perfect science and it is just one of those things that you need to test.
But because of the effects and improvements due to #LinearAdvance, I like to tune it first. Because, on a single line you would not notice an incorrect z-offset at all, except if it is completely wrong and you get no bed adhesion at all.
So by eliminating that factor, you can then safely tune the z-offset after Linear Advance
First layer and z-offset by #TeachingTech on #YouTube
https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#firstlayer
-
Often the first thing to calibrate by many is the z-offset. This is not wrong, but because I already have my z-offset so well tuned for my 0.4mm nozzle at 0.21mm, it isn't too wrong to just use this for my 0.6mm nozzle.
Some would notice that 0.21 is just more than half of 0.4, so 0.3 or something in that range could work for a 0.6mm nozzle.
Could be, but I have found that z-offset is no perfect science and it is just one of those things that you need to test.
But because of the effects and improvements due to #LinearAdvance, I like to tune it first. Because, on a single line you would not notice an incorrect z-offset at all, except if it is completely wrong and you get no bed adhesion at all.
So by eliminating that factor, you can then safely tune the z-offset after Linear Advance
First layer and z-offset by #TeachingTech on #YouTube
https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#firstlayer
-
Often the first thing to calibrate by many is the z-offset. This is not wrong, but because I already have my z-offset so well tuned for my 0.4mm nozzle at 0.21mm, it isn't too wrong to just use this for my 0.6mm nozzle.
Some would notice that 0.21 is just more than half of 0.4, so 0.3 or something in that range could work for a 0.6mm nozzle.
Could be, but I have found that z-offset is no perfect science and it is just one of those things that you need to test.
But because of the effects and improvements due to #LinearAdvance, I like to tune it first. Because, on a single line you would not notice an incorrect z-offset at all, except if it is completely wrong and you get no bed adhesion at all.
So by eliminating that factor, you can then safely tune the z-offset after Linear Advance
First layer and z-offset by #TeachingTech on #YouTube
https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#firstlayer
-
My first steps will need to be #LinearAdvanced tuning with the K-test.
Linear Advance is a technique for controlling the pressure in the nozzle, especially around corners and tight spots. It simulates the filament like a spring, using a K factor.
Something many don't realise, is that this not only helps with corners, curves and turns, but also layers.
You might have noticed that your first layers and infill is good, until the printed reaches the edge perimeters. You then find these blobs and almost over extrusion as the printer slows down, but keeps on extruding the same amount of plastic.
I am clearly seeing this in my first layers and top layer now.
Linear Advanced tuning and calibration by #TechingTech on #YouTube
https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#linadv
The K constant or "Spring Constant" as defined by Hooke's Law, just fun insight and background:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hooke's_law
Linear Advance #Marlin #Firmware:
-
So the 0.4mm vs 0.6mm nozzle debate is nothing new in #3dprinting, but it is something I've lived in denial about.
I have used different nozzle sizes before, especially when printing larger enclosures for some of my projects. I can easily use anything from a 0.6mm all the way to a 1.2mm nozzle. It can easily reduce a print by 4 to 6 hours.
But I always find myself switching back to my "default" 0.4mm nozzle as soon as I am done with such a project.
This debate is nothing new and with #Aracne in #prusaslicer you might not even notice the difference switching 0.6mm.
But I have found myself at an impasse.
My 0.4mm profiles are just so well tuned after years of printing. Perfect first and top layers. Excellent strength, long bridges and no stringing. I couldn't ask for better!
But now switching to my 0.6mm nozzle, I can see I have a lot of work cut out before I'll be cutting any printing time.
-
Chamfers and fillets were the greatest improvements that I could have made to my designs and completely changed my style.
Not only did it improve my printed and designed parts visually, but also improved strength and printability.
By removing sharp corners from your designs, slower and older printers can more easily print your designs and the printing speed can easily be increased even with the lack of #LinearAdvanced and #InputShaping.
The strength is also improved by creating a small chamfer or fillet where a thin wall connects to a larger surface, by increasing the contact surface and sometimes enlarging the surface enough to allow for extra infill.
Finally, rounded corners also result in more consistent printed results, especially when you are printing many copies of the same part, due to the decrease in possible errors and shifts that could occur on sharp corners.
-
Chamfers and fillets were the greatest improvements that I could have made to my designs and completely changed my style.
Not only did it improve my printed and designed parts visually, but also improved strength and printability.
By removing sharp corners from your designs, slower and older printers can more easily print your designs and the printing speed can easily be increased even with the lack of #LinearAdvanced and #InputShaping.
The strength is also improved by creating a small chamfer or fillet where a thin wall connects to a larger surface, by increasing the contact surface and sometimes enlarging the surface enough to allow for extra infill.
Finally, rounded corners also result in more consistent printed results, especially when you are printing many copies of the same part, due to the decrease in possible errors and shifts that could occur on sharp corners.
-
Chamfers and fillets were the greatest improvements that I could have made to my designs and completely changed my style.
Not only did it improve my printed and designed parts visually, but also improved strength and printability.
By removing sharp corners from your designs, slower and older printers can more easily print your designs and the printing speed can easily be increased even with the lack of #LinearAdvanced and #InputShaping.
The strength is also improved by creating a small chamfer or fillet where a thin wall connects to a larger surface, by increasing the contact surface and sometimes enlarging the surface enough to allow for extra infill.
Finally, rounded corners also result in more consistent printed results, especially when you are printing many copies of the same part, due to the decrease in possible errors and shifts that could occur on sharp corners.
-
Chamfers and fillets were the greatest improvements that I could have made to my designs and completely changed my style.
Not only did it improve my printed and designed parts visually, but also improved strength and printability.
By removing sharp corners from your designs, slower and older printers can more easily print your designs and the printing speed can easily be increased even with the lack of #LinearAdvanced and #InputShaping.
The strength is also improved by creating a small chamfer or fillet where a thin wall connects to a larger surface, by increasing the contact surface and sometimes enlarging the surface enough to allow for extra infill.
Finally, rounded corners also result in more consistent printed results, especially when you are printing many copies of the same part, due to the decrease in possible errors and shifts that could occur on sharp corners.
-
Chamfers and fillets were the greatest improvements that I could have made to my designs and completely changed my style.
Not only did it improve my printed and designed parts visually, but also improved strength and printability.
By removing sharp corners from your designs, slower and older printers can more easily print your designs and the printing speed can easily be increased even with the lack of #LinearAdvanced and #InputShaping.
The strength is also improved by creating a small chamfer or fillet where a thin wall connects to a larger surface, by increasing the contact surface and sometimes enlarging the surface enough to allow for extra infill.
Finally, rounded corners also result in more consistent printed results, especially when you are printing many copies of the same part, due to the decrease in possible errors and shifts that could occur on sharp corners.
-
How often do you actually need a larger #3dprinter? I have a #CR6SE, and only 1 of our 10 prints is actually the size of the bed. Sometimes, I wonder if speed would be better than a larger bed slinger.
-
If I could go back 2 years and knew everything I knew now, I would not buy my #CR6SE just due to my load cell peoblems, but then I would have bought an #Ender3 and then I would rather just buy the CR6 SE again.
As a 100% beginner at the time, the fact that I turned my printer on and it leveled automatically made my life so much easier. I never understood the bed leveling problems with the #Ender3 because I have never done manual leveling in #Marlin and also won't know how.
So, although I am hesitant, this move might have been good by #Prusa if they solved all of these issues.
-
The load cell also has some interference problems. The heat and current draw from the hotend affect the accuracy. In the official #firmware, this is still a problem. The #Creality #CR6SE community firmware has solved this by turning off the hotend just as the nozzle touches the bed. Which improves the accuracy. I assume #Prusa has solved this and also did it.
The load cell is also sensitive to bowden tube setups. Because the hotend is basically on a lever, the bowden tube can press down on the hotend in different corners of the printer, resulting in incorrect measurements.
I solved this using the CR6 SE #Discord community to recalibrate the trigger level by using a scale and adjusting the z-offset, but the interference is still there.
I hope #Prusa has solved all of this, and this would also expand the support for load cells.
-
I don't know how I feel about the load cell, but I think it is due to my experience with the #Creality #CR6SE.
The CR6 SE was one of the first mainstream machines to use it, but the community is a lot smaller than the #Ender3 community. So, I struggled to get #opensource designs for the hotend. I literally posted my own design yesterday, after having my machine for 2 years now. That's how long it took me.
So, I wasn't able to get upgrades and support for it. The CR6 SE community has grown, and we have a #Discord server now, but it was difficult in the beginning.
Then the problem was also #firmware. #Marlin and #Klippr didn't support the load cell at first, so we have an extra board on our hotend, which had to be reverse engineered by the Discord community, because #Creality didn't make it opensource at first.
-
Larger scale shipping and their are already routes. There already are ships moving between #China and the #US. They just need to put a container on it. But such large availability doesn't exist between small #3dprinting manufacturers in #Europe.
It is the same argument why we are buying bottled water from #Fugi rather than removing salt from sea water in the US because the shipping is cheaper than the entire purifying process.
-
Watch this video by #Slant3D regarding the company and minds behind #Bambulab. You'll clearly see that the team has insane expertise in the field, no offense to #Prusa here.
But it is like comparing Nikola Tesla and Edison. Two different methods, two different processes and pricedures. Prusa is aimed at the work horses and Bambulab more to rapid prototyping and engineering.
No offense to either company here.
I, to feel Prusa, is a bit behind. No one is even emntioning #Creality, and what about #Sovol? No, just pushing out larger bedslingers in a time everyone just wants core XY?
-
Watch this video by #Slant3D regarding the company and minds behind #Bambulab. You'll clearly see that the team has insane expertise in the field, no offense to #Prusa here.
But it is like comparing Nikola Tesla and Edison. Two different methods, two different processes and pricedures. Prusa is aimed at the work horses and Bambulab more to rapid prototyping and engineering.
No offense to either company here.
I, to feel Prusa, is a bit behind. No one is even emntioning #Creality, and what about #Sovol? No, just pushing out larger bedslingers in a time everyone just wants core XY?
-
Watch this video by #Slant3D regarding the company and minds behind #Bambulab. You'll clearly see that the team has insane expertise in the field, no offense to #Prusa here.
But it is like comparing Nikola Tesla and Edison. Two different methods, two different processes and pricedures. Prusa is aimed at the work horses and Bambulab more to rapid prototyping and engineering.
No offense to either company here.
I, to feel Prusa, is a bit behind. No one is even emntioning #Creality, and what about #Sovol? No, just pushing out larger bedslingers in a time everyone just wants core XY?
-
Watch this video by #Slant3D regarding the company and minds behind #Bambulab. You'll clearly see that the team has insane expertise in the field, no offense to #Prusa here.
But it is like comparing Nikola Tesla and Edison. Two different methods, two different processes and pricedures. Prusa is aimed at the work horses and Bambulab more to rapid prototyping and engineering.
No offense to either company here.
I, to feel Prusa, is a bit behind. No one is even emntioning #Creality, and what about #Sovol? No, just pushing out larger bedslingers in a time everyone just wants core XY?
-
Watch this video by #Slant3D regarding the company and minds behind #Bambulab. You'll clearly see that the team has insane expertise in the field, no offense to #Prusa here.
But it is like comparing Nikola Tesla and Edison. Two different methods, two different processes and pricedures. Prusa is aimed at the work horses and Bambulab more to rapid prototyping and engineering.
No offense to either company here.
I, to feel Prusa, is a bit behind. No one is even emntioning #Creality, and what about #Sovol? No, just pushing out larger bedslingers in a time everyone just wants core XY?
-
I feel the #Prusa #MK3 and now the new #MK4 as well as the #XL are focussed on a different target group than the #Bambulab #XC1. But because the entire #3dprinting community would buy either company's machines, this fine line becomes a grey area, so they are directly compared.
The #MK3 and #MK4 will never reach the speeds of the #XC1, with stock parts, and the #XC1 will never reach the reliability of the #Prusa machines.
You can't use a,n #XC1 in a #printfarm, let alone afford 1000 of them, and you can't prototype and test at the speed of the #XC1 with the Prusa machines.
If I had a print farm, I would buy 500 Prusa machines and 1 Bambulab to test on, but I would manufacture with the Prusa machines.
-
I have complete the first version of my #remix of the #voron style #afterburner hotened for the #creality #CR6SE. I hope you enjoy it!
https://www.printables.com/model/436979-creality-cr6-se-afterburner-hotend