#cr6se — Public Fediverse posts
Live and recent posts from across the Fediverse tagged #cr6se, aggregated by home.social.
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Habe jetzt das Seitenteil nochmal mit dem #PrusaSlicer (Teil rechts im Bild) gedruckt. Links sieht man einen der drei Fehldrucke mit #OrcaSlicer. Die Temperaturen für das Filament und Heatbed habe ich quasi übernommen. Evtl kontrolliere ich auch nochmal Retraction und Druckgeschwindigkeit, aber das sind schon Welten. Wahrscheinlich bleibe ich aber beim PrusaSlicer. Der hat out of the box damals funktioniert und überzeugt einfach. #Creality #CR6SE #3DDrucker #3dprinting
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Habe jetzt das Seitenteil nochmal mit dem #PrusaSlicer (Teil rechts im Bild) gedruckt. Links sieht man einen der drei Fehldrucke mit #OrcaSlicer. Die Temperaturen für das Filament und Heatbed habe ich quasi übernommen. Evtl kontrolliere ich auch nochmal Retraction und Druckgeschwindigkeit, aber das sind schon Welten. Wahrscheinlich bleibe ich aber beim PrusaSlicer. Der hat out of the box damals funktioniert und überzeugt einfach. #Creality #CR6SE #3DDrucker #3dprinting
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@geekandi @infosecdj @OttersDangerDen @astrovore
The guys on the #CR6SE Discord finally answered. They day there are trim pots on the stock board that I can adjust to reduce the current, but it isn't possible with software.
So I think I'll open the printer, meausre all of the motor currents, then adjust them. If I mess anything up, I can just go back to the old values.
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@geekandi @infosecdj @OttersDangerDen @astrovore
The guys on the #CR6SE Discord finally answered. They day there are trim pots on the stock board that I can adjust to reduce the current, but it isn't possible with software.
So I think I'll open the printer, meausre all of the motor currents, then adjust them. If I mess anything up, I can just go back to the old values.
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#TeachingTech on Youtube has a video for #Creality #CR6SE style leveling, which is what I have, for the #Ender3
Load cell leveling is great, I use it, but it can have its quirks. Just make sure that the bowden tube doesn't mess with the sensor. If you have a direct drive, then I think it would be one of the best solutions if you don't have the flexibility of a #Voron #Stealthburner.
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#TeachingTech on Youtube has a video for #Creality #CR6SE style leveling, which is what I have, for the #Ender3
Load cell leveling is great, I use it, but it can have its quirks. Just make sure that the bowden tube doesn't mess with the sensor. If you have a direct drive, then I think it would be one of the best solutions if you don't have the flexibility of a #Voron #Stealthburner.
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Just to make sure, you are running #Klipper here with the native Klipper LCD support? That is also the default #Ender3 display, right?
It really looks great! I just love the icon for the nozzle, it looks very good. I've been wondering if I want to go for a touch screen and #KlipperScreen or just for an LCD display like this. I have a #Creality #CR6SE, so my fisplay is currently not working with Klipper.
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Just to make sure, you are running #Klipper here with the native Klipper LCD support? That is also the default #Ender3 display, right?
It really looks great! I just love the icon for the nozzle, it looks very good. I've been wondering if I want to go for a touch screen and #KlipperScreen or just for an LCD display like this. I have a #Creality #CR6SE, so my fisplay is currently not working with Klipper.
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The #Creality #CR6SE had a large footprint because it is a bed slinger, so to enclose it completely, I have an 80x80x80 enclosure around it. That's a lot of air. For fast high prints, using the bed is too slow.
I pf course overkilled it, and it isn't necessary, but I can set a temperature from room temperature to 60°C and it is automatically controlled.
So, because I can😂
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The #Creality #CR6SE had a large footprint because it is a bed slinger, so to enclose it completely, I have an 80x80x80 enclosure around it. That's a lot of air. For fast high prints, using the bed is too slow.
I pf course overkilled it, and it isn't necessary, but I can set a temperature from room temperature to 60°C and it is automatically controlled.
So, because I can😂
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Official #Prusa: https://discord.gg/prusa3d
Official #Klipper: https://discord.klipper3d.org/
Official #VoidStarLabs (#Youtube): https://discord.gg/voidstarlab
Official #Octoprint: https://discord.gg/ThTbRmXC
Community #Creality #CR6SE focussed: https://discord.gg/M635Kzpc
Official #Marlin: https://discord.gg/dEAjzur9
Official #ModBot (#Youtube): https://discord.com/invite/NEpd2A5ACe
Official #Nero3D (#Youtube): @3dprinting #3dprinting
Official #SteveBuilds (#Youtube): https://discord.gg/zerog
Official #247Printing (#Youtube): https://discord.gg/zerog
Official #LostInTech (#Youtube): https://discord.com/invite/tQQPNSCTKP
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Official #Prusa: https://discord.gg/prusa3d
Official #Klipper: https://discord.klipper3d.org/
Official #VoidStarLabs (#Youtube): https://discord.gg/voidstarlab
Official #Octoprint: https://discord.gg/ThTbRmXC
Community #Creality #CR6SE focussed: https://discord.gg/M635Kzpc
Official #Marlin: https://discord.gg/dEAjzur9
Official #ModBot (#Youtube): https://discord.com/invite/NEpd2A5ACe
Official #Nero3D (#Youtube): @3dprinting #3dprinting
Official #SteveBuilds (#Youtube): https://discord.gg/zerog
Official #247Printing (#Youtube): https://discord.gg/zerog
Official #LostInTech (#Youtube): https://discord.com/invite/tQQPNSCTKP
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I love the building and tinkering, debugging, and struggles. It is how I spend my late nights when I can't sleep or on a rainy day.
That being said, I wouldn't mine an ol' reliable #Bambulab #X1C just to have for when I need something quick.
I have found myself while designing a new hotend for my #Creality #CR6SE in #Fusion360 that it didn't fit, and I had to put everything back again just to print a file again.
So another printer for that would be fun, but working on a printer is like working on a car with your father in the garage. You never finish it, but the journey is priceless, and one day, the first drive is so rewarding. You just sit back with a bear and smile at what you have created.
I do this every night. When it is late, I just turn on my enclosure LEDs in my dark room and stare at my wiring.
I have no circuit diagrams or plans. The entire thing is mine, and in my head
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I love the building and tinkering, debugging, and struggles. It is how I spend my late nights when I can't sleep or on a rainy day.
That being said, I wouldn't mine an ol' reliable #Bambulab #X1C just to have for when I need something quick.
I have found myself while designing a new hotend for my #Creality #CR6SE in #Fusion360 that it didn't fit, and I had to put everything back again just to print a file again.
So another printer for that would be fun, but working on a printer is like working on a car with your father in the garage. You never finish it, but the journey is priceless, and one day, the first drive is so rewarding. You just sit back with a bear and smile at what you have created.
I do this every night. When it is late, I just turn on my enclosure LEDs in my dark room and stare at my wiring.
I have no circuit diagrams or plans. The entire thing is mine, and in my head
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If it is not 32-bit, it would benefit the most. 32-bit boards are faster and more accurate, so this would benefit all printers and have the most benefit if you have an 8-bit board.
All prints in this thread were done on a #Creality #CR6SE, which is 32-bit, and you can see the increased performance. So imagine on an 8-bit.
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If it is not 32-bit, it would benefit the most. 32-bit boards are faster and more accurate, so this would benefit all printers and have the most benefit if you have an 8-bit board.
All prints in this thread were done on a #Creality #CR6SE, which is 32-bit, and you can see the increased performance. So imagine on an 8-bit.
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There is #KlipperScreen for #Klipper. One of my reasons that I haven't moved over to #Klipper yet is because then the display on my #Creality #CR6SE will be useless, and I currently don't have a touchscreen for my #RaspberryPi.
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There is #KlipperScreen for #Klipper. One of my reasons that I haven't moved over to #Klipper yet is because then the display on my #Creality #CR6SE will be useless, and I currently don't have a touchscreen for my #RaspberryPi.
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How often do you actually need a larger #3dprinter? I have a #CR6SE, and only 1 of our 10 prints is actually the size of the bed. Sometimes, I wonder if speed would be better than a larger bed slinger.
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How often do you actually need a larger #3dprinter? I have a #CR6SE, and only 1 of our 10 prints is actually the size of the bed. Sometimes, I wonder if speed would be better than a larger bed slinger.
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If I could go back 2 years and knew everything I knew now, I would not buy my #CR6SE just due to my load cell peoblems, but then I would have bought an #Ender3 and then I would rather just buy the CR6 SE again.
As a 100% beginner at the time, the fact that I turned my printer on and it leveled automatically made my life so much easier. I never understood the bed leveling problems with the #Ender3 because I have never done manual leveling in #Marlin and also won't know how.
So, although I am hesitant, this move might have been good by #Prusa if they solved all of these issues.
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If I could go back 2 years and knew everything I knew now, I would not buy my #CR6SE just due to my load cell peoblems, but then I would have bought an #Ender3 and then I would rather just buy the CR6 SE again.
As a 100% beginner at the time, the fact that I turned my printer on and it leveled automatically made my life so much easier. I never understood the bed leveling problems with the #Ender3 because I have never done manual leveling in #Marlin and also won't know how.
So, although I am hesitant, this move might have been good by #Prusa if they solved all of these issues.
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The load cell also has some interference problems. The heat and current draw from the hotend affect the accuracy. In the official #firmware, this is still a problem. The #Creality #CR6SE community firmware has solved this by turning off the hotend just as the nozzle touches the bed. Which improves the accuracy. I assume #Prusa has solved this and also did it.
The load cell is also sensitive to bowden tube setups. Because the hotend is basically on a lever, the bowden tube can press down on the hotend in different corners of the printer, resulting in incorrect measurements.
I solved this using the CR6 SE #Discord community to recalibrate the trigger level by using a scale and adjusting the z-offset, but the interference is still there.
I hope #Prusa has solved all of this, and this would also expand the support for load cells.
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The load cell also has some interference problems. The heat and current draw from the hotend affect the accuracy. In the official #firmware, this is still a problem. The #Creality #CR6SE community firmware has solved this by turning off the hotend just as the nozzle touches the bed. Which improves the accuracy. I assume #Prusa has solved this and also did it.
The load cell is also sensitive to bowden tube setups. Because the hotend is basically on a lever, the bowden tube can press down on the hotend in different corners of the printer, resulting in incorrect measurements.
I solved this using the CR6 SE #Discord community to recalibrate the trigger level by using a scale and adjusting the z-offset, but the interference is still there.
I hope #Prusa has solved all of this, and this would also expand the support for load cells.
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I don't know how I feel about the load cell, but I think it is due to my experience with the #Creality #CR6SE.
The CR6 SE was one of the first mainstream machines to use it, but the community is a lot smaller than the #Ender3 community. So, I struggled to get #opensource designs for the hotend. I literally posted my own design yesterday, after having my machine for 2 years now. That's how long it took me.
So, I wasn't able to get upgrades and support for it. The CR6 SE community has grown, and we have a #Discord server now, but it was difficult in the beginning.
Then the problem was also #firmware. #Marlin and #Klippr didn't support the load cell at first, so we have an extra board on our hotend, which had to be reverse engineered by the Discord community, because #Creality didn't make it opensource at first.
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I don't know how I feel about the load cell, but I think it is due to my experience with the #Creality #CR6SE.
The CR6 SE was one of the first mainstream machines to use it, but the community is a lot smaller than the #Ender3 community. So, I struggled to get #opensource designs for the hotend. I literally posted my own design yesterday, after having my machine for 2 years now. That's how long it took me.
So, I wasn't able to get upgrades and support for it. The CR6 SE community has grown, and we have a #Discord server now, but it was difficult in the beginning.
Then the problem was also #firmware. #Marlin and #Klippr didn't support the load cell at first, so we have an extra board on our hotend, which had to be reverse engineered by the Discord community, because #Creality didn't make it opensource at first.
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I have complete the first version of my #remix of the #voron style #afterburner hotened for the #creality #CR6SE. I hope you enjoy it!
https://www.printables.com/model/436979-creality-cr6-se-afterburner-hotend
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I have complete the first version of my #remix of the #voron style #afterburner hotened for the #creality #CR6SE. I hope you enjoy it!
https://www.printables.com/model/436979-creality-cr6-se-afterburner-hotend
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Anti-Spill cup carrier 3D printed. Allows a person to walk around carrying a full coffee cup without spilling. Decided to test it, and it works amazingly well. I walked at full speed in the dark this morning in the house with zero spills. The stuff floating on my coffee is some cinnamon. #3Dprinting #creality #cr6se #HawaiiMastodon https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3027680
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Anti-Spill cup carrier 3D printed. Allows a person to walk around carrying a full coffee cup without spilling. Decided to test it, and it works amazingly well. I walked at full speed in the dark this morning in the house with zero spills. The stuff floating on my coffee is some cinnamon. #3Dprinting #creality #cr6se #HawaiiMastodon https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3027680
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#Gridfinity is the reason I want a second or larger printer. Otherwise, my 250x250x250mm #CR6SE is enough
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#Gridfinity is the reason I want a second or larger printer. Otherwise, my 250x250x250mm #CR6SE is enough
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So, I felt I needed a #coaster for my #desk, but I wanted to stay true to the #hobby!
I printed this on a #creality #CR6SE. 0.4mm nozzle for both pieces with Creality #ABS.
I wanted a red filament that is a bit more of a candy or apple red, and this came out more of a peach color. Currently, I am not sure why because the actual #filament on the roll is more red. So it might be my temperature of 250°C that I am printing at. I will experiment with lower temps to see if the color is affected.
I am able to print ABS easily because I have a 60°C heated #enclosure.
[Printables - Coaster printing in progreas](https://www.printables.com/model/231240-coaster-printing-in-progress)
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So, I felt I needed a #coaster for my #desk, but I wanted to stay true to the #hobby!
I printed this on a #creality #CR6SE. 0.4mm nozzle for both pieces with Creality #ABS.
I wanted a red filament that is a bit more of a candy or apple red, and this came out more of a peach color. Currently, I am not sure why because the actual #filament on the roll is more red. So it might be my temperature of 250°C that I am printing at. I will experiment with lower temps to see if the color is affected.
I am able to print ABS easily because I have a 60°C heated #enclosure.
[Printables - Coaster printing in progreas](https://www.printables.com/model/231240-coaster-printing-in-progress)
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I don't know, but currently, my #CR6SE is my daily driver, and it is working for me.
My only complaint is that the force sensor is sometimes just too weird to work with and sensitive to stupid external factors.
However, the auto-bed-leveling is so convenient, and I haven't had any of the manual-bed-leveling struggles that many beginners have with the #ender series.
The force sensor also makes it more difficult to mod the printer. Not allowing me to #3dprint most #opensource mods, because they are made for the #bltouch and #crtouch.
Finally, the speed is getting to me, and I would love to get a faster printer. But the price of a #voron is a bit too high and I don't have the time for it.
I really wish both #creality and #prusa brought out their own #corexy printers, rather than continuing down this path of #bedslingers and #cartesian printers.
Opinions? Would you get a non core xy today?
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I don't know, but currently, my #CR6SE is my daily driver, and it is working for me.
My only complaint is that the force sensor is sometimes just too weird to work with and sensitive to stupid external factors.
However, the auto-bed-leveling is so convenient, and I haven't had any of the manual-bed-leveling struggles that many beginners have with the #ender series.
The force sensor also makes it more difficult to mod the printer. Not allowing me to #3dprint most #opensource mods, because they are made for the #bltouch and #crtouch.
Finally, the speed is getting to me, and I would love to get a faster printer. But the price of a #voron is a bit too high and I don't have the time for it.
I really wish both #creality and #prusa brought out their own #corexy printers, rather than continuing down this path of #bedslingers and #cartesian printers.
Opinions? Would you get a non core xy today?
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@TreasureDev never heard of this. Will check it out. I have to say, my recent experience with the #cr6se and the force sensor it uses is driving em crazy. Also, it makes it more difficult to build custom heads for your #3dprinter, something which is very easy with an #ender and #bltouch.
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@TreasureDev never heard of this. Will check it out. I have to say, my recent experience with the #cr6se and the force sensor it uses is driving em crazy. Also, it makes it more difficult to build custom heads for your #3dprinter, something which is very easy with an #ender and #bltouch.