#marline — Public Fediverse posts
Live and recent posts from across the Fediverse tagged #marline, aggregated by home.social.
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#Gruppenjagd mit Ampel: Farbwechsel der Körperstreifen verhindert, dass #Marline sich gegenseitig verletzen. Helle Körperstreifen signalisieren: „Jetzt bin ich mit Jagen dran.“ Mit @humboldtuni > https://www.igb-berlin.de/news/gruppenjagd-mit-ampel
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Tuning #LinearAdvance also only involves a single parameter, the K-value.
Tuning the z-offset actually has a few, which you could use moving from a 0.4mm nozzle to a 0.6mm nozzle.
Firstly, you bed needs to be level, or trammed. Your #3dprinter needs to be leveled to ensure that it corrects the flex and warping of your bed.
Secondly, there is the z-fade, recently introduced in #Marline #firmware and other firmware like #klipper
The z-fade allows for a layer-by-layer fade of the correction of the leveling and tramming, to ease out the correction as it becomes less prominent as the layers increase.
I can clearly see this in my prints, with layers below 1.2mm z-height being ugly and layers above that near perfect. As the effects of a non-level bed becomes less prominent.
Thus, it is clear that #LinearAdvance is a good place to start when making this switch. But if you are just starting to tune your printer, rather start with the z-offset and bed-leveling.
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Tuning #LinearAdvance also only involves a single parameter, the K-value.
Tuning the z-offset actually has a few, which you could use moving from a 0.4mm nozzle to a 0.6mm nozzle.
Firstly, you bed needs to be level, or trammed. Your #3dprinter needs to be leveled to ensure that it corrects the flex and warping of your bed.
Secondly, there is the z-fade, recently introduced in #Marline #firmware and other firmware like #klipper
The z-fade allows for a layer-by-layer fade of the correction of the leveling and tramming, to ease out the correction as it becomes less prominent as the layers increase.
I can clearly see this in my prints, with layers below 1.2mm z-height being ugly and layers above that near perfect. As the effects of a non-level bed becomes less prominent.
Thus, it is clear that #LinearAdvance is a good place to start when making this switch. But if you are just starting to tune your printer, rather start with the z-offset and bed-leveling.
-
Tuning #LinearAdvance also only involves a single parameter, the K-value.
Tuning the z-offset actually has a few, which you could use moving from a 0.4mm nozzle to a 0.6mm nozzle.
Firstly, you bed needs to be level, or trammed. Your #3dprinter needs to be leveled to ensure that it corrects the flex and warping of your bed.
Secondly, there is the z-fade, recently introduced in #Marline #firmware and other firmware like #klipper
The z-fade allows for a layer-by-layer fade of the correction of the leveling and tramming, to ease out the correction as it becomes less prominent as the layers increase.
I can clearly see this in my prints, with layers below 1.2mm z-height being ugly and layers above that near perfect. As the effects of a non-level bed becomes less prominent.
Thus, it is clear that #LinearAdvance is a good place to start when making this switch. But if you are just starting to tune your printer, rather start with the z-offset and bed-leveling.
-
Tuning #LinearAdvance also only involves a single parameter, the K-value.
Tuning the z-offset actually has a few, which you could use moving from a 0.4mm nozzle to a 0.6mm nozzle.
Firstly, you bed needs to be level, or trammed. Your #3dprinter needs to be leveled to ensure that it corrects the flex and warping of your bed.
Secondly, there is the z-fade, recently introduced in #Marline #firmware and other firmware like #klipper
The z-fade allows for a layer-by-layer fade of the correction of the leveling and tramming, to ease out the correction as it becomes less prominent as the layers increase.
I can clearly see this in my prints, with layers below 1.2mm z-height being ugly and layers above that near perfect. As the effects of a non-level bed becomes less prominent.
Thus, it is clear that #LinearAdvance is a good place to start when making this switch. But if you are just starting to tune your printer, rather start with the z-offset and bed-leveling.
-
Tuning #LinearAdvance also only involves a single parameter, the K-value.
Tuning the z-offset actually has a few, which you could use moving from a 0.4mm nozzle to a 0.6mm nozzle.
Firstly, you bed needs to be level, or trammed. Your #3dprinter needs to be leveled to ensure that it corrects the flex and warping of your bed.
Secondly, there is the z-fade, recently introduced in #Marline #firmware and other firmware like #klipper
The z-fade allows for a layer-by-layer fade of the correction of the leveling and tramming, to ease out the correction as it becomes less prominent as the layers increase.
I can clearly see this in my prints, with layers below 1.2mm z-height being ugly and layers above that near perfect. As the effects of a non-level bed becomes less prominent.
Thus, it is clear that #LinearAdvance is a good place to start when making this switch. But if you are just starting to tune your printer, rather start with the z-offset and bed-leveling.
