#snapmaker — Public Fediverse posts
Live and recent posts from across the Fediverse tagged #snapmaker, aggregated by home.social.
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I’ve had the same 3D print fail twice now, and the problem is the PolySupport PLA breaking off mid-print and spaghettifying everywhere. I’m surprised as I’ve used it many times before with no trouble. I dried the spool, but that didn’t help; I think the problem is thin tree-branch supports combined with a too-wobbly table. I’m thinking I may try standard rectangular supports next, and if that fails, getting a sturdier table for the printer! 😅
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I’ve had the same 3D print fail twice now, and the problem is the PolySupport PLA breaking off mid-print and spaghettifying everywhere. I’m surprised as I’ve used it many times before with no trouble. I dried the spool, but that didn’t help; I think the problem is thin tree-branch supports combined with a too-wobbly table. I’m thinking I may try standard rectangular supports next, and if that fails, getting a sturdier table for the printer! 😅
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I’ve had the same 3D print fail twice now, and the problem is the PolySupport PLA breaking off mid-print and spaghettifying everywhere. I’m surprised as I’ve used it many times before with no trouble. I dried the spool, but that didn’t help; I think the problem is thin tree-branch supports combined with a too-wobbly table. I’m thinking I may try standard rectangular supports next, and if that fails, getting a sturdier table for the printer! 😅
-
I’ve had the same 3D print fail twice now, and the problem is the PolySupport PLA breaking off mid-print and spaghettifying everywhere. I’m surprised as I’ve used it many times before with no trouble. I dried the spool, but that didn’t help; I think the problem is thin tree-branch supports combined with a too-wobbly table. I’m thinking I may try standard rectangular supports next, and if that fails, getting a sturdier table for the printer! 😅
-
I’ve had the same 3D print fail twice now, and the problem is the PolySupport PLA breaking off mid-print and spaghettifying everywhere. I’m surprised as I’ve used it many times before with no trouble. I dried the spool, but that didn’t help; I think the problem is thin tree-branch supports combined with a too-wobbly table. I’m thinking I may try standard rectangular supports next, and if that fails, getting a sturdier table for the printer! 😅
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A new one. Snapmaker apparently had Marlin crash, it just got stuck mid print. The Android-based UI was happy except nothing on the screen worked.
I tried a hail Mary and powered it down for 30 seconds, it was able to resume with the powerloss protection.
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A new one. Snapmaker apparently had Marlin crash, it just got stuck mid print. The Android-based UI was happy except nothing on the screen worked.
I tried a hail Mary and powered it down for 30 seconds, it was able to resume with the powerloss protection.
-
A new one. Snapmaker apparently had Marlin crash, it just got stuck mid print. The Android-based UI was happy except nothing on the screen worked.
I tried a hail Mary and powered it down for 30 seconds, it was able to resume with the powerloss protection.
-
A new one. Snapmaker apparently had Marlin crash, it just got stuck mid print. The Android-based UI was happy except nothing on the screen worked.
I tried a hail Mary and powered it down for 30 seconds, it was able to resume with the powerloss protection.
-
A new one. Snapmaker apparently had Marlin crash, it just got stuck mid print. The Android-based UI was happy except nothing on the screen worked.
I tried a hail Mary and powered it down for 30 seconds, it was able to resume with the powerloss protection.
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Looks like today finally became the day when I got around to get rid of my Snapmaker A350's original print sheet and go with the all steel one as I print mostly PETG and likes with it.
This was prompted by a print job I had started yesterday, but I came here to see a disaster. The print head had literally grinded itself into the sheet. I scratched my head for a second for what had happened, of this 2 material job one material had printed fine while the other was like 0.5mm lower than it should.
Turns out the nozzle had gotten loose and had now signed the old print sheet.
Here's the new one installed. At least it's pretty. I've come to love this model with my Prusas for its excellent PETG printing properties, so I went with one here too.
But The A350 is absolute pain with the nozzle Z level calibration. The OG 3D printing module didn't even come with a load cell, you had to put a calibration sheet between the nozzle and the sheet, manually lowering the print head until you could feel a slight contact.
But this one has the upgraded multi material 3D printing module that can sense if the head touches the bed.
-
Looks like today finally became the day when I got around to get rid of my Snapmaker A350's original print sheet and go with the all steel one as I print mostly PETG and likes with it.
This was prompted by a print job I had started yesterday, but I came here to see a disaster. The print head had literally grinded itself into the sheet. I scratched my head for a second for what had happened, of this 2 material job one material had printed fine while the other was like 0.5mm lower than it should.
Turns out the nozzle had gotten loose and had now signed the old print sheet.
Here's the new one installed. At least it's pretty. I've come to love this model with my Prusas for its excellent PETG printing properties, so I went with one here too.
But The A350 is absolute pain with the nozzle Z level calibration. The OG 3D printing module didn't even come with a load cell, you had to put a calibration sheet between the nozzle and the sheet, manually lowering the print head until you could feel a slight contact.
But this one has the upgraded multi material 3D printing module that can sense if the head touches the bed.
-
Looks like today finally became the day when I got around to get rid of my Snapmaker A350's original print sheet and go with the all steel one as I print mostly PETG and likes with it.
This was prompted by a print job I had started yesterday, but I came here to see a disaster. The print head had literally grinded itself into the sheet. I scratched my head for a second for what had happened, of this 2 material job one material had printed fine while the other was like 0.5mm lower than it should.
Turns out the nozzle had gotten loose and had now signed the old print sheet.
Here's the new one installed. At least it's pretty. I've come to love this model with my Prusas for its excellent PETG printing properties, so I went with one here too.
But The A350 is absolute pain with the nozzle Z level calibration. The OG 3D printing module didn't even come with a load cell, you had to put a calibration sheet between the nozzle and the sheet, manually lowering the print head until you could feel a slight contact.
But this one has the upgraded multi material 3D printing module that can sense if the head touches the bed.
-
Looks like today finally became the day when I got around to get rid of my Snapmaker A350's original print sheet and go with the all steel one as I print mostly PETG and likes with it.
This was prompted by a print job I had started yesterday, but I came here to see a disaster. The print head had literally grinded itself into the sheet. I scratched my head for a second for what had happened, of this 2 material job one material had printed fine while the other was like 0.5mm lower than it should.
Turns out the nozzle had gotten loose and had now signed the old print sheet.
Here's the new one installed. At least it's pretty. I've come to love this model with my Prusas for its excellent PETG printing properties, so I went with one here too.
But The A350 is absolute pain with the nozzle Z level calibration. The OG 3D printing module didn't even come with a load cell, you had to put a calibration sheet between the nozzle and the sheet, manually lowering the print head until you could feel a slight contact.
But this one has the upgraded multi material 3D printing module that can sense if the head touches the bed.
-
Looks like today finally became the day when I got around to get rid of my Snapmaker A350's original print sheet and go with the all steel one as I print mostly PETG and likes with it.
This was prompted by a print job I had started yesterday, but I came here to see a disaster. The print head had literally grinded itself into the sheet. I scratched my head for a second for what had happened, of this 2 material job one material had printed fine while the other was like 0.5mm lower than it should.
Turns out the nozzle had gotten loose and had now signed the old print sheet.
Here's the new one installed. At least it's pretty. I've come to love this model with my Prusas for its excellent PETG printing properties, so I went with one here too.
But The A350 is absolute pain with the nozzle Z level calibration. The OG 3D printing module didn't even come with a load cell, you had to put a calibration sheet between the nozzle and the sheet, manually lowering the print head until you could feel a slight contact.
But this one has the upgraded multi material 3D printing module that can sense if the head touches the bed.
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A new OrcaSlicer fork with innovative solutions for printing in colors. It uses overhangs to hide a previous color and require a single tool change per layer, reducing time and waste.
GitHub :
https://github.com/sentientstardust-dev/OrcaSlicer-ImageMapYGK3D explains in detail how it works :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B5cvfSPWjlUThis fork is based on 2 research papers:
- Overhangs modulation :
https://arxiv.org/pdf/1805.01375
- Color Contoning : https://cdfg.mit.edu/publications/color-contoning-3d-printing#3dprinting #color #colour #snapmaker #orcaslicer #slicer #opensource
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A new OrcaSlicer fork with innovative solutions for printing in colors. It uses overhangs to hide a previous color and require a single tool change per layer, reducing time and waste.
GitHub :
https://github.com/sentientstardust-dev/OrcaSlicer-ImageMapYGK3D explains in detail how it works :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B5cvfSPWjlUThis fork is based on 2 research papers:
- Overhangs modulation :
https://arxiv.org/pdf/1805.01375
- Color Contoning : https://cdfg.mit.edu/publications/color-contoning-3d-printing#3dprinting #color #colour #snapmaker #orcaslicer #slicer #opensource
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A new OrcaSlicer fork with innovative solutions for printing in colors. It uses overhangs to hide a previous color and require a single tool change per layer, reducing time and waste.
GitHub :
https://github.com/sentientstardust-dev/OrcaSlicer-ImageMapYGK3D explains in detail how it works :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B5cvfSPWjlUThis fork is based on 2 research papers:
- Overhangs modulation :
https://arxiv.org/pdf/1805.01375
- Color Contoning : https://cdfg.mit.edu/publications/color-contoning-3d-printing#3dprinting #color #colour #snapmaker #orcaslicer #slicer #opensource
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A new OrcaSlicer fork with innovative solutions for printing in colors. It uses overhangs to hide a previous color and require a single tool change per layer, reducing time and waste.
GitHub :
https://github.com/sentientstardust-dev/OrcaSlicer-ImageMapYGK3D explains in detail how it works :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B5cvfSPWjlUThis fork is based on 2 research papers:
- Overhangs modulation :
https://arxiv.org/pdf/1805.01375
- Color Contoning : https://cdfg.mit.edu/publications/color-contoning-3d-printing#3dprinting #color #colour #snapmaker #orcaslicer #slicer #opensource
-
A new OrcaSlicer fork with innovative solutions for printing in colors. It uses overhangs to hide a previous color and require a single tool change per layer, reducing time and waste.
GitHub :
https://github.com/sentientstardust-dev/OrcaSlicer-ImageMapYGK3D explains in detail how it works :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B5cvfSPWjlUThis fork is based on 2 research papers:
- Overhangs modulation :
https://arxiv.org/pdf/1805.01375
- Color Contoning : https://cdfg.mit.edu/publications/color-contoning-3d-printing#3dprinting #color #colour #snapmaker #orcaslicer #slicer #opensource
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Cut And Fold Your 3D Printer’s Next Cover
https://fed.brid.gy/r/https://hackaday.com/2026/07/15/cut-and-fold-your-3d-printers-next-cover/
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Cut And Fold Your 3D Printer’s Next Cover
https://fed.brid.gy/r/https://hackaday.com/2026/07/15/cut-and-fold-your-3d-printers-next-cover/
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Cut And Fold Your 3D Printer’s Next Cover
https://fed.brid.gy/r/https://hackaday.com/2026/07/15/cut-and-fold-your-3d-printers-next-cover/
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*beep boop woooosh click clack~* ^-^
#3DPrinting #Snapmaker -
*beep boop woooosh click clack~* ^-^
#3DPrinting #Snapmaker -
*beep boop woooosh click clack~* ^-^
#3DPrinting #Snapmaker -
*beep boop woooosh click clack~* ^-^
#3DPrinting #Snapmaker -
*beep boop woooosh click clack~* ^-^
#3DPrinting #Snapmaker -
IKEA Storage Box Just Happens To Make Great Printer Cover
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IKEA Storage Box Just Happens To Make Great Printer Cover
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I built moonlet 🌙: a little screen showing my printer's live status (progress, layers, ETA, ...) via the Moonraker API using a Waveshare ESP32-C6-LCD-1.47.
Designed a snap-together case in FreeCAD. It snapped the screen during assembly. Redesigning the enclosure from scratch and ordering a fresh board.
Until then: https://github.com/tobijkl/moonlet
#3dprinting #esp32 #electronics #snapmaker #moon #fail #waveshare #diy #maker
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I built moonlet 🌙: a little screen showing my printer's live status (progress, layers, ETA, ...) via the Moonraker API using a Waveshare ESP32-C6-LCD-1.47.
Designed a snap-together case in FreeCAD. It snapped the screen during assembly. Redesigning the enclosure from scratch and ordering a fresh board.
Until then: https://github.com/tobijkl/moonlet
#3dprinting #esp32 #electronics #snapmaker #moon #fail #waveshare #diy #maker
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RE: https://mastodon.social/@macrumors/116715936490357741
My old 2020 M1 MBP sneaks in under the wire too. Since I just decided to keep it as my full time #Snapmaker controller, that makes me happy.
(It’s touchbar is flaking out which makes it problematic to resell)
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RE: https://mastodon.social/@macrumors/116715936490357741
My old 2020 M1 MBP sneaks in under the wire too. Since I just decided to keep it as my full time #Snapmaker controller, that makes me happy.
(It’s touchbar is flaking out which makes it problematic to resell)
-
RE: https://mastodon.social/@macrumors/116715936490357741
My old 2020 M1 MBP sneaks in under the wire too. Since I just decided to keep it as my full time #Snapmaker controller, that makes me happy.
(It’s touchbar is flaking out which makes it problematic to resell)
-
RE: https://mastodon.social/@macrumors/116715936490357741
My old 2020 M1 MBP sneaks in under the wire too. Since I just decided to keep it as my full time #Snapmaker controller, that makes me happy.
(It’s touchbar is flaking out which makes it problematic to resell)
-
RE: https://mastodon.social/@macrumors/116715936490357741
My old 2020 M1 MBP sneaks in under the wire too. Since I just decided to keep it as my full time #Snapmaker controller, that makes me happy.
(It’s touchbar is flaking out which makes it problematic to resell)
-
RE: https://hachyderm.io/@BenjaminHCCarr/116641337242819672
So sick of Babmu Lab crap, I was considering getting it as my next core XY multicolor 3D printer, but after crapping on open source community for the second time, I'm done ... I'm now considering Snapmaker U1 and Prusa Core +/L with INDX ...
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RE: https://hachyderm.io/@BenjaminHCCarr/116641337242819672
So sick of Babmu Lab crap, I was considering getting it as my next core XY multicolor 3D printer, but after crapping on open source community for the second time, I'm done ... I'm now considering Snapmaker U1 and Prusa Core +/L with INDX ...
-
RE: https://hachyderm.io/@BenjaminHCCarr/116641337242819672
So sick of Babmu Lab crap, I was considering getting it as my next core XY multicolor 3D printer, but after crapping on open source community for the second time, I'm done ... I'm now considering Snapmaker U1 and Prusa Core +/L with INDX ...
-
RE: https://hachyderm.io/@BenjaminHCCarr/116641337242819672
So sick of Babmu Lab crap, I was considering getting it as my next core XY multicolor 3D printer, but after crapping on open source community for the second time, I'm done ... I'm now considering Snapmaker U1 and Prusa Core +/L with INDX ...
-
RE: https://hachyderm.io/@BenjaminHCCarr/116641337242819672
So sick of Babmu Lab crap, I was considering getting it as my next core XY multicolor 3D printer, but after crapping on open source community for the second time, I'm done ... I'm now considering Snapmaker U1 and Prusa Core +/L with INDX ...
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@wwwgem @elgosz
I have the #Snapmaker A350T, and many of the extra accessories, some of which I’ve never even used 😆But I’m retired now and started to use it again. The 10W laser was a nice upgrade over the original 1.6W. We’ll see how my next few projects go. I might spring for the 20W or 40W upgrade
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@wwwgem @elgosz
I have the #Snapmaker A350T, and many of the extra accessories, some of which I’ve never even used 😆But I’m retired now and started to use it again. The 10W laser was a nice upgrade over the original 1.6W. We’ll see how my next few projects go. I might spring for the 20W or 40W upgrade
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@wwwgem @elgosz
I have the #Snapmaker A350T, and many of the extra accessories, some of which I’ve never even used 😆But I’m retired now and started to use it again. The 10W laser was a nice upgrade over the original 1.6W. We’ll see how my next few projects go. I might spring for the 20W or 40W upgrade
-
@wwwgem @elgosz
I have the #Snapmaker A350T, and many of the extra accessories, some of which I’ve never even used 😆But I’m retired now and started to use it again. The 10W laser was a nice upgrade over the original 1.6W. We’ll see how my next few projects go. I might spring for the 20W or 40W upgrade
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I've recently talked with @elgosz who brought up to my attention a 3D printers company I've never heard of: #snapmaker.
While there're not fully open-source, they are still more leaning towards that than some other companies, and they offer quite some innovative machines. Have you ever heard of them? Do you own one of their machines?
#3dprinting #3dprint -
I've recently talked with @elgosz who brought up to my attention a 3D printers company I've never heard of: #snapmaker.
While there're not fully open-source, they are still more leaning towards that than some other companies, and they offer quite some innovative machines. Have you ever heard of them? Do you own one of their machines?
#3dprinting #3dprint -
I've recently talked with @elgosz who brought up to my attention a 3D printers company I've never heard of: #snapmaker.
While there're not fully open-source, they are still more leaning towards that than some other companies, and they offer quite some innovative machines. Have you ever heard of them? Do you own one of their machines?
#3dprinting #3dprint -
I've recently talked with @elgosz who brought up to my attention a 3D printers company I've never heard of: #snapmaker.
While there're not fully open-source, they are still more leaning towards that than some other companies, and they offer quite some innovative machines. Have you ever heard of them? Do you own one of their machines?
#3dprinting #3dprint -
I've recently talked with @elgosz who brought up to my attention a 3D printers company I've never heard of: #snapmaker.
While there're not fully open-source, they are still more leaning towards that than some other companies, and they offer quite some innovative machines. Have you ever heard of them? Do you own one of their machines?
#3dprinting #3dprint -
One neat thing about moving to Orca Slicer from Snapmaker's own turd is finally being able to automate the enclosure exhaust fan. Since I can add custom G-codes to be run at start and end of using some specific filament, I can now have the fan auto start when ABS, ASA or anything else super stinky is being printed.
-
One neat thing about moving to Orca Slicer from Snapmaker's own turd is finally being able to automate the enclosure exhaust fan. Since I can add custom G-codes to be run at start and end of using some specific filament, I can now have the fan auto start when ABS, ASA or anything else super stinky is being printed.
-
One neat thing about moving to Orca Slicer from Snapmaker's own turd is finally being able to automate the enclosure exhaust fan. Since I can add custom G-codes to be run at start and end of using some specific filament, I can now have the fan auto start when ABS, ASA or anything else super stinky is being printed.
-
One neat thing about moving to Orca Slicer from Snapmaker's own turd is finally being able to automate the enclosure exhaust fan. Since I can add custom G-codes to be run at start and end of using some specific filament, I can now have the fan auto start when ABS, ASA or anything else super stinky is being printed.
-
One neat thing about moving to Orca Slicer from Snapmaker's own turd is finally being able to automate the enclosure exhaust fan. Since I can add custom G-codes to be run at start and end of using some specific filament, I can now have the fan auto start when ABS, ASA or anything else super stinky is being printed.
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full spectrum printing -is- pretty neat. Translucent filament was recommended, this here though is bog standard opaque PLA (CMYW). Now, what to do with that power? 🤔
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full spectrum printing -is- pretty neat. Translucent filament was recommended, this here though is bog standard opaque PLA (CMYW). Now, what to do with that power? 🤔
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full spectrum printing -is- pretty neat. Translucent filament was recommended, this here though is bog standard opaque PLA (CMYW). Now, what to do with that power? 🤔
-
full spectrum printing -is- pretty neat. Translucent filament was recommended, this here though is bog standard opaque PLA (CMYW). Now, what to do with that power? 🤔