#machining — Public Fediverse posts
Live and recent posts from across the Fediverse tagged #machining, aggregated by home.social.
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The drills and taps showed up so we centre drilled, drilled and tapped, milled a bit away to avoid grounding electronics and oh Eris it only FITS!! #maker #machining #diy #retrocomputing
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The drills and taps showed up so we centre drilled, drilled and tapped, milled a bit away to avoid grounding electronics and oh Eris it only FITS!! #maker #machining #diy #retrocomputing
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The drills and taps showed up so we centre drilled, drilled and tapped, milled a bit away to avoid grounding electronics and oh Eris it only FITS!! #maker #machining #diy #retrocomputing
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Got the mill fired up, trammed in the vise, used an edge finder and 1/2 mode to get set up on the centre of my bracket. Y axis is locked.
Just need a unc drill and tap to show up and we can poke some freedom holes in this thing.
I could, I’m sure, freehand this with layout and courage but I do need to justify owning a mill so let’s try and get some tens of microns accurate holes in play. #maker #machining #diy #retrocomputing -
Attempting to scrape the saddle to fit bed ways for my CNC mini lathe. On YouTube it seemed so much easier :) I feel like it is super easy to mis-interpret the spotting marks - ink piling in the low spots and leaving false imprints.
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Attempting to scrape the saddle to fit bed ways for my CNC mini lathe. On YouTube it seemed so much easier :) I feel like it is super easy to mis-interpret the spotting marks - ink piling in the low spots and leaving false imprints.
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Got my ER32 collet holder and my set of collets for the mill.
Found a minute to check runout on the machine with a full milling setup. Looks like .0002-.0003 inches (~6 micron) TIR to me.
I’ll take it. I was expecting significantly worse from this setup.
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Got my ER32 collet holder and my set of collets for the mill.
Found a minute to check runout on the machine with a full milling setup. Looks like .0002-.0003 inches (~6 micron) TIR to me.
I’ll take it. I was expecting significantly worse from this setup.
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Got my ER32 collet holder and my set of collets for the mill.
Found a minute to check runout on the machine with a full milling setup. Looks like .0002-.0003 inches (~6 micron) TIR to me.
I’ll take it. I was expecting significantly worse from this setup.
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Got my ER32 collet holder and my set of collets for the mill.
Found a minute to check runout on the machine with a full milling setup. Looks like .0002-.0003 inches (~6 micron) TIR to me.
I’ll take it. I was expecting significantly worse from this setup.
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Got my ER32 collet holder and my set of collets for the mill.
Found a minute to check runout on the machine with a full milling setup. Looks like .0002-.0003 inches (~6 micron) TIR to me.
I’ll take it. I was expecting significantly worse from this setup.
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Designing and machining a novel mechanical clock that can be used to tell the time on other planets.
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Designing and machining a novel mechanical clock that can be used to tell the time on other planets.
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Designing and machining a novel mechanical clock that can be used to tell the time on other planets.
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Designing and machining a novel mechanical clock that can be used to tell the time on other planets.
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Designing and machining a novel mechanical clock that can be used to tell the time on other planets.
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Anyone here using RepRapFirmware on their cnc mill (or 3D printer)? I have some questions related to planning out my controls cabinet.
Specifically I want to know if there is a way I can tie a button or switch in for motion enable/disable and use a contactor to cut power to the drives/spindle
I’m also assuming I can have standard start/hold push buttons. I am used to having my fingers on buttons to pause and resume without taking my eyes off the work…
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Anyone here using RepRapFirmware on their cnc mill (or 3D printer)? I have some questions related to planning out my controls cabinet.
Specifically I want to know if there is a way I can tie a button or switch in for motion enable/disable and use a contactor to cut power to the drives/spindle
I’m also assuming I can have standard start/hold push buttons. I am used to having my fingers on buttons to pause and resume without taking my eyes off the work…
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Anyone here using RepRapFirmware on their cnc mill (or 3D printer)? I have some questions related to planning out my controls cabinet.
Specifically I want to know if there is a way I can tie a button or switch in for motion enable/disable and use a contactor to cut power to the drives/spindle
I’m also assuming I can have standard start/hold push buttons. I am used to having my fingers on buttons to pause and resume without taking my eyes off the work…
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Anyone here using RepRapFirmware on their cnc mill (or 3D printer)? I have some questions related to planning out my controls cabinet.
Specifically I want to know if there is a way I can tie a button or switch in for motion enable/disable and use a contactor to cut power to the drives/spindle
I’m also assuming I can have standard start/hold push buttons. I am used to having my fingers on buttons to pause and resume without taking my eyes off the work…
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Anyone here using RepRapFirmware on their cnc mill (or 3D printer)? I have some questions related to planning out my controls cabinet.
Specifically I want to know if there is a way I can tie a button or switch in for motion enable/disable and use a contactor to cut power to the drives/spindle
I’m also assuming I can have standard start/hold push buttons. I am used to having my fingers on buttons to pause and resume without taking my eyes off the work…
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Machining a Two-Stroke Engine out of Aluminium
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Machining a Two-Stroke Engine out of Aluminium
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How to do R&D for a production process, the right way
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How to do R&D for a production process, the right way
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How to do R&D for a production process, the right way
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How to do R&D for a production process, the right way
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How to do R&D for a production process, the right way
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And I'm done. I would have liked to get one more part done. But I'm too tired to do that safely. This thing is a 4.5kw mill that will happily kill you if you give it the chance. Only operate it if fully awake and present.
I did get one part completely finished, and 3 with all the drilling and tapping done. Just cosmetic shaping to do on those with an angle grinder.
Now for a quick break, then tidy up my toys.
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And I'm done. I would have liked to get one more part done. But I'm too tired to do that safely. This thing is a 4.5kw mill that will happily kill you if you give it the chance. Only operate it if fully awake and present.
I did get one part completely finished, and 3 with all the drilling and tapping done. Just cosmetic shaping to do on those with an angle grinder.
Now for a quick break, then tidy up my toys.
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And I'm done. I would have liked to get one more part done. But I'm too tired to do that safely. This thing is a 4.5kw mill that will happily kill you if you give it the chance. Only operate it if fully awake and present.
I did get one part completely finished, and 3 with all the drilling and tapping done. Just cosmetic shaping to do on those with an angle grinder.
Now for a quick break, then tidy up my toys.
-
And I'm done. I would have liked to get one more part done. But I'm too tired to do that safely. This thing is a 4.5kw mill that will happily kill you if you give it the chance. Only operate it if fully awake and present.
I did get one part completely finished, and 3 with all the drilling and tapping done. Just cosmetic shaping to do on those with an angle grinder.
Now for a quick break, then tidy up my toys.
-
And I'm done. I would have liked to get one more part done. But I'm too tired to do that safely. This thing is a 4.5kw mill that will happily kill you if you give it the chance. Only operate it if fully awake and present.
I did get one part completely finished, and 3 with all the drilling and tapping done. Just cosmetic shaping to do on those with an angle grinder.
Now for a quick break, then tidy up my toys.
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Woo. First two parts of the day complete. Realised I could gang drill them if I welded them together. So used my new TIG skills to tack them together. Made centre, Pilot, and drilling to size a breeze. Did it on the mill. Which is probably a bit over kill. But was fun, which is most important. Also accurate...
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Woo. First two parts of the day complete. Realised I could gang drill them if I welded them together. So used my new TIG skills to tack them together. Made centre, Pilot, and drilling to size a breeze. Did it on the mill. Which is probably a bit over kill. But was fun, which is most important. Also accurate...
-
Woo. First two parts of the day complete. Realised I could gang drill them if I welded them together. So used my new TIG skills to tack them together. Made centre, Pilot, and drilling to size a breeze. Did it on the mill. Which is probably a bit over kill. But was fun, which is most important. Also accurate...
-
Woo. First two parts of the day complete. Realised I could gang drill them if I welded them together. So used my new TIG skills to tack them together. Made centre, Pilot, and drilling to size a breeze. Did it on the mill. Which is probably a bit over kill. But was fun, which is most important. Also accurate...
-
Woo. First two parts of the day complete. Realised I could gang drill them if I welded them together. So used my new TIG skills to tack them together. Made centre, Pilot, and drilling to size a breeze. Did it on the mill. Which is probably a bit over kill. But was fun, which is most important. Also accurate...
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This is what 20 years of coolant do to M12 connectors.
Together with a coworker I exchanged 6 of them today with new cables and connectors. It only took about the whole day, because it was nearly impossible to access the whole cable run. Lots of zip ties were cut by only feeling their location. A endoscope camera would have been handy. -
This is what 20 years of coolant do to M12 connectors.
Together with a coworker I exchanged 6 of them today with new cables and connectors. It only took about the whole day, because it was nearly impossible to access the whole cable run. Lots of zip ties were cut by only feeling their location. A endoscope camera would have been handy. -
This is what 20 years of coolant do to M12 connectors.
Together with a coworker I exchanged 6 of them today with new cables and connectors. It only took about the whole day, because it was nearly impossible to access the whole cable run. Lots of zip ties were cut by only feeling their location. A endoscope camera would have been handy. -
This is what 20 years of coolant do to M12 connectors.
Together with a coworker I exchanged 6 of them today with new cables and connectors. It only took about the whole day, because it was nearly impossible to access the whole cable run. Lots of zip ties were cut by only feeling their location. A endoscope camera would have been handy. -
This is what 20 years of coolant do to M12 connectors.
Together with a coworker I exchanged 6 of them today with new cables and connectors. It only took about the whole day, because it was nearly impossible to access the whole cable run. Lots of zip ties were cut by only feeling their location. A endoscope camera would have been handy. -
I tried to combine hobbies today. I meant to machine an adapter to put an antenna with a 3/8-28" onto a base that takes M10x1.5mm. I thoughtlessly grabbed a JPC-12 section to use as a go-nogo gauge for the M10x1.5mm thread I was single-pointing onto the adapter. I thought I was being gentle, but it galled hard. I ended up with surface damage from using a knipex flat wrench to remove it, and what was worse was that inside the female thread of the JPC-12 is locked some welded thread that was originally part of the adapter I was making. Right at the top, so I can't align a tap to remove it.
So I get to start over on the adapter, and now I'm going to have to pick up the inside thread with a hand-cut threading tool and use it to remove the welded bit of thread.
Good practice I guess...
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I tried to combine hobbies today. I meant to machine an adapter to put an antenna with a 3/8-28" onto a base that takes M10x1.5mm. I thoughtlessly grabbed a JPC-12 section to use as a go-nogo gauge for the M10x1.5mm thread I was single-pointing onto the adapter. I thought I was being gentle, but it galled hard. I ended up with surface damage from using a knipex flat wrench to remove it, and what was worse was that inside the female thread of the JPC-12 is locked some welded thread that was originally part of the adapter I was making. Right at the top, so I can't align a tap to remove it.
So I get to start over on the adapter, and now I'm going to have to pick up the inside thread with a hand-cut threading tool and use it to remove the welded bit of thread.
Good practice I guess...
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I tried to combine hobbies today. I meant to machine an adapter to put an antenna with a 3/8-28" onto a base that takes M10x1.5mm. I thoughtlessly grabbed a JPC-12 section to use as a go-nogo gauge for the M10x1.5mm thread I was single-pointing onto the adapter. I thought I was being gentle, but it galled hard. I ended up with surface damage from using a knipex flat wrench to remove it, and what was worse was that inside the female thread of the JPC-12 is locked some welded thread that was originally part of the adapter I was making. Right at the top, so I can't align a tap to remove it.
So I get to start over on the adapter, and now I'm going to have to pick up the inside thread with a hand-cut threading tool and use it to remove the welded bit of thread.
Good practice I guess...
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I tried to combine hobbies today. I meant to machine an adapter to put an antenna with a 3/8-28" onto a base that takes M10x1.5mm. I thoughtlessly grabbed a JPC-12 section to use as a go-nogo gauge for the M10x1.5mm thread I was single-pointing onto the adapter. I thought I was being gentle, but it galled hard. I ended up with surface damage from using a knipex flat wrench to remove it, and what was worse was that inside the female thread of the JPC-12 is locked some welded thread that was originally part of the adapter I was making. Right at the top, so I can't align a tap to remove it.
So I get to start over on the adapter, and now I'm going to have to pick up the inside thread with a hand-cut threading tool and use it to remove the welded bit of thread.
Good practice I guess...
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I tried to combine hobbies today. I meant to machine an adapter to put an antenna with a 3/8-28" onto a base that takes M10x1.5mm. I thoughtlessly grabbed a JPC-12 section to use as a go-nogo gauge for the M10x1.5mm thread I was single-pointing onto the adapter. I thought I was being gentle, but it galled hard. I ended up with surface damage from using a knipex flat wrench to remove it, and what was worse was that inside the female thread of the JPC-12 is locked some welded thread that was originally part of the adapter I was making. Right at the top, so I can't align a tap to remove it.
So I get to start over on the adapter, and now I'm going to have to pick up the inside thread with a hand-cut threading tool and use it to remove the welded bit of thread.
Good practice I guess...
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The mill came with an old Panasonic Toughbook running Windows Vista and loaded with Mach 3, AutoCAD 14, BobCAD 27, and others.
It also has jpeg of AR15 lower CAD screenshot. I don’t see any actual CAD or CAM files but I haven’t dug into the Dropbox folder on the machine, that’s not my business. I’m only looking for any machine config parameters (what pitch are these ball screws??)
I’m happy I can give this mill a gun-free second life though.
