#autorepair — Public Fediverse posts
Live and recent posts from across the Fediverse tagged #autorepair, aggregated by home.social.
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Bon, je me tâte, car franchement mon planning est franchement pas évident
(ouai en vrai je suis au RSA et un fainéant si j'écoute les médias. Mais vient vivre ma vie tu verras que je participe plus au bien être de la société que les bourgeois).
Mais je voudrais faire des tutos axés administration système et Linux. Car je trouve qu'on manque de docs clairs, précis et utile au quotidien en français.
Tout le monde ne maîtrise pas la langue de shakespeare, et se taper les man pages ou le Arch Wiki n'est pas à la porter de tout le monde.
En même temps, s'occuper de son système bah c'est comme faire l'entretient de sa voiture.
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It’s all fun and games, until it isn’t. Rock sliders would have been a good idea.
“It’s just a bit of rocker damage.”
#PowerWagon #AutoRepair #RockSilders #OffRoad #Overland -
Преодолел лень-забывчивость и заехал в автомагазин купить свечной ключик. Дома есть, но короткий. Итак, вашему вниманию старые свечи! (Не романтика, не тот вариант 🙂)
* 95 бензин и практически всегда одна заправка
* накатано 58000 (много, знаю, как обычно лень было за ключиком заехать)Ваше мнение, автомеханики? То, что электроды уже сильно покушало, вижу. Что ещё подскажите?
#CarMaintenance #SparkPlugs #AutoRepair #EngineHealth #CarTech #GarageLife
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It’s become more clear to me that it’s a kindness to have the opportunity to be kind and I was glad to help R.
The original $4000 estimate R got for the timing chain repair was absurdly high.
While it seems likely that running dirty oil in this tiny engine can increase the risk for this problem I’m also disturbed at how neatly this also fits into an effective emotional manipulation.
7/7
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They had a nice heated garage and quickly replaced the part for $120 and the problematic OBDC code was gone!
I cleared all recorded problem codes and then need to drive the car for awhile so the internal computer would generate valid data for the emissions test. Needed several cold starts including one overnight and at least 15m on the highway.
It passed inspection today and we swapped cars.
6/7
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The part cost $110 at the local auto parts store, $40 at rockauto, and there was a no-label brand on Amazon for just $16. I got another family member with Prime to order the $16 part.
I looked inquisitively at the tiny engine and with the help of some YouTube videos found the sensor I wanted to replace. But our driveway is very icy and muddy and since we don’t have a garage I decided to take the part with me to my local garage.
5/7
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Researching it seemed the tiny Honda Fit engines needed frequent oil changes and that timing chain problems were common for engines that regularly ran with dirty oil and threw the P0341 code.
But … if the timing chain was that loose often the engine will run roughly especially shedding acceleration.
Replacing just the camshaft position sensor looked easy and I thought this made sense to try first.
4/7
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That seemed like way too much to me and we decided I would take her car to another shop that I used for a second opinion. They estimated the cost for replacing the timing chain at $1200-1400 so I swapped cars with R and we made an appointment for next week.
So far there had been no independent measurement that indicated the timing chain was stretched/loose and needed replacement.
The engine ran fine and accelerated smoothly and normally.
3/7
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R took it to a local repair and muffler shop and they told her that her oil was very dirty and needed to be changed and that if she hadn’t regularly been changing her oil that P0341 meant her timing chain had stretched and needed to be replaced. Said it would cost $4000 but it made more sense to be a low mileage used engine in for $5000. She had them change her oil and contacted me.
2/7
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Helped my daughter with a puzzling auto repair she needed solved to get her l car inspected!
R is my middle daughter and she had a 2016 Honda Fit. For various reasons it’s been hard for her to follow up on an emissions inspection failure.
The failure was throwing a P0341 code, Camshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit Range/Performance Bank 1 or Single
Sensor1/7
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Looks like the #Renault #Scenic 2 is leaking oil.
I was able to confirm my gearbox reverse light switch repair and gearbox oil change are not the source of this (gearbox still full, lowest spot of the engine is just at the gearbox darin plug thats why the oil goes there).
Cleaned the accessible bottom part of the engine, found that the gaskets of the oil stick failed so ordered a new one and found out that the oil is actually coming right from the top of the engine. To access this part, a special nut and a new air inlet gasket are required. Waiting for those now...
According to some online sources, the screws that hold on the cover are not sealed/tend to leak around the screw head. So just removing one at a time, cleaning the surface and reassembling them with a bit of "gasket maker" could fix this. Cleaning is useful anyways to find out where exactly the oil comes from if this does not fix it.
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I needed to change the bulbs in my headlights… so obviously that means I have to remove the entire front of the car to access them..
#AutoRepair #CarRepair #cars -
Replacement bearing is #SKF VKBA7011 (easiest to get at a reasonable price, Schaeffler can be unobtanium here or double price, probably due to #Brexit) - hoping front left is OK for few more months (so if I have to do this again its in better weather and longer days), at least I know what's involved now - am also getting 400-600mm telescopic ratchet which should make work on axle stands easier (there was a "rent-a-ramp" place in the next town along - alas; it closed recently)
I didn't take any photos of the actual job as I wanted to get it all done during available light but this is the noise the bad bearing makes (rattles as well)
Curiously it had 0 makers markings/ID on it, maybe replaced before with cheap aftermarket part?
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Garage next door to my work booked up until December, fixed it in yard outside today - 6 hours (even with #Makita #impactwrench to remove axle bolts) - had to fight cursed #XZN spline bolts in awkward position (should have raised axle stands about 30-50mm higher!) to remove old set and retorque new ones to 70 Nm + 90° (not fun!).
All other bolts such as caliper bolt, control arm to ball joint and even big axle bolt and axle itself didn't give me any drama, just these 3 (mechanic lent me the one long ratchet I didn't have). Got 200Nm + 180° on axle bolt with beast of a breaker bar
Took every bit of strength in my body, went on test drive just now and there is 0 noise (thought both corners were goosed but front left seems OK for now)
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Had this aircraft noise for some months in #GolfGTI (had thought at first "maybe its supposed to sound like that because its fast?") but it was a goosed #WheelBearing
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Hmm, how to replace a value cover gasket on my 4Runner... LOL, not easy. (mine is leaking... not doing it myself, but it's apparently a bit of a job). Going to be a pretty penny, for good reason! #4runner #autorepair
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Hmm, kinda feel bad dropping the automobile (which I don't drive very often) off for service, but decided having a second set of eyes on it after repairing the rat damage probably worth it (and working right now). Fixed a rat severed wire today and now my brake indicator light is on permanently 🤔 (vs. intermittent). Although it seems easy enough to do (thanks for the pointers!), having them do a brake flush while they've got it so they have incentive to check it out. #autorepair
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I have serviced my own cars for 45 years and it became worse over time. From my experience the real hostility started about 2010. I can really relate to this thread
#autorepair #cars #carmaintenance #RightToRepairFrom: @subjacentish
https://zeroes.ca/@subjacentish/115115521987542066 -
At least the dead mouse in my vehicle's cabin air fan was a freshly dead mouse, and hadn't started rotting yet. 🤢 #autorepair
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Spent multiple hours just getting the cover on the fusebox and remounting the bumper.
In the end I used a dremel to remove some material from the cover to allow it to slide in place with a car around it while still clipping in place and being waterproof.
The way Renault wants this to happen is to remove battery, battery tray, ECU, some air filter stuff and slide the fuse thingy in from the side.
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Here we go... for some reason the engine must be running to get error codes from the ECU. I can't clear them while the engine is running and I cannot access the ECU with the engine off. Maybe something about can bus gateways?
DF232 is the sensor connector (ordered a new one, readings are ok if zip tied in place).
DF1070 seems to be "AC compressor took too much power" e.g. to disable the AC in case the compressor broke. I was told that the detection is not great and it sometimes just triggers. There seems to be a software update to improve this detection, but I need to get it from a Renault dealership.
I'll replace the broken connector and try to find a way to reset the ECU DTCs next. Baybe it works with the "default" OBD2 setting or I need to enable some CAN gateway switches...
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Temporarily reassembled this mess... but was interrupted by rain. Can't run the engine with some plastic covering the currently non-waterproof front of the car. Moving parts, hot etc...
So I switched the reverse light switch and its connector last week.
Indeed, the parking brake was unhappy about the inconsistent signals.
Reverse light works again.
ASR is happy after driving a few meters.
Apparently there is the option for TPMS but they are not fitted. Ok, I dont care.
Apparently there is a short for the steering column lock sensor. I will ignore this one for now.
The #iCarsoft thingy can show/plot the climate request signal. As the fan blew 100% in the meantime but just for 1 day I assume the climate controls have a bad CAN bus contact/loose connector.
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Please applaud my elaborate oil filling contraption. I spared no expense and bought a new funnel.
Yay 🍾Indeed, the switch AND the connector were bad. And the transmission got new oil, while at it.
The switch indicates reverse (pin 1 white and 2 yellow bridged) and neutral (pin 2 yellow and 3 brown bridged).
This explains the "catastrophic electric handbrake meltdown service immediately" display in case the car is on a red light in idle. The car wants to engage the electric brake but is missing this signal and is soooo sad.
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Hmmm... why is the connector for the magnetic clutch unplugged and grinding on the drive belt? 🤔
If plugged in, and driven by a lab PSU I hear a click and it draws ~50 W.
So I guess at least the magnetic clutch thingy and wiring is good.
So I need to debug this at the CAN bus level and see why it does not switch on.
As the replacement connector for the reverse light switch will arrive next week I can stop here for now, and do a fun thing. Like watch paint dry...
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The #Renault #Scenic II saga continues.
Yay, I got the correct reverse light switch.
Nay, there is a bad contact in the connector in addition to the original reverse light switch not working.Done:
- replace protection and switching unit (original one is fine)
- fix unit connectors (someone damaged the old ones)
- get new cover/enclosure (someone broke the old ones)
- replace battery mount bolts (had to drill them out due to rust)
- replace headlight bulbs (they failed, just to annoy me)
- derusted (left) wheelhouse mounting bracket (most rusty part on this car I am aware of)TODOs:
- paint wheelhouse mounting bracket
- replace reverse light switch connector
- test new reverse light switch with new connector
- replace reverse light switch in gearbox
- swap gearbox oil
- debug AC magentic switch (the thing that started all of this)
- mount towbar + wire trailer outlet
- mount bumper, headlights, ... -
Hmm, my son ran over a nail. OPPORTUNITY TO USE THE TIRE REPAIR KIT (again)!
(Thanks to YouTube for the video showing how these are done, not for me, but so my son actually now trusts I know how to fix these 🙄 -- jack up the tire, remove the nail, ream out the hole, push in the plug, reinflate tire, lower jack, voila, you are done!)
Also, thanks to @douglasvb and the others who pointed me at these last year sometime.
Doing it in the morning in daylight...
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Lol, the headlight bulb just decided to die at the exact same time I swap the unit. It decided to turn into a 5,6kOhm resistor, leading me in the direction of a bad contact somewhere... Its required to remove the bumper and headlight to switch it anyway... so I'll just replace both now.
Wiring from the unit to the reversing lights is fine.
Schematic for wiring to the reversing switch is inconsistent. The pinning and wire colors do not match between control unit and the switch itself and Renault placed the 3rd pin on a completely unrelated schematic page for maximum confusion.
The reversing switch seems to be dead - no contact between any of the 3 pins.
Gearbox oil will spill out if I remove the switch, so first I want to try a new switch outside of the gearbox and see if the reversing lights work again... and figure out the right spot to put the gearbox oil back in.
This does not explain the AC not working, but I'll tackle the issues one after another.
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This is a great story! 😀
My dad was a mechanic, so he taught me lots — but he also started a community college course in basic auto repair specifically for women (in the 1960’s!)