#coreone — Public Fediverse posts
Live and recent posts from across the Fediverse tagged #coreone, aggregated by home.social.
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Prusa biete jetzt übrigens das Bondtech INDX für den Core One und Core One + an.
Leider noch nicht für den Core One L. 😡
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Prusa biete jetzt übrigens das Bondtech INDX für den Core One und Core One + an.
Leider noch nicht für den Core One L. 😡
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Prusa biete jetzt übrigens das Bondtech INDX für den Core One und Core One + an.
Leider noch nicht für den Core One L. 😡
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Prusa biete jetzt übrigens das Bondtech INDX für den Core One und Core One + an.
Leider noch nicht für den Core One L. 😡
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Prusa biete jetzt übrigens das Bondtech INDX für den Core One und Core One + an.
Leider noch nicht für den Core One L. 😡
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INDX preorders just went live. Unfortunately I have to wait for my Core One coupon to show up…
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INDX preorders just went live. Unfortunately I have to wait for my Core One coupon to show up…
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INDX preorders just went live. Unfortunately I have to wait for my Core One coupon to show up…
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Mein Core One hat gestern das Filamentsensor Upgrade vom + bekommen.
Das ist echt durchdacht: man kann mit einem Schalter nun einstellen, dass die kleine interne Klemme keinen Wiederstand hat um flexibles Filament einzuführen.
Es war allerdings eine Fummelarbeit den Sensor wieder zusammen zusetzen. Man musste dazu zwei sich abstoßenden Magneten bändigen. Und alles dann inkl Griff, kopfüber auf die Außenwand schrauben (dafür hätte man gut eine 3. Hand gebraucht) #Prusa #CoreOne #3dprinting
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Moved the #CoreOne from a LACK to a BROR table (metal frame) that I also installed leveling feet on. Pretty great. No more eek-eek-eek-eek when it gets moving.
Also comparatively no effort involved. It just costs 10 times more.
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Moved the #CoreOne from a LACK to a BROR table (metal frame) that I also installed leveling feet on. Pretty great. No more eek-eek-eek-eek when it gets moving.
Also comparatively no effort involved. It just costs 10 times more.
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Moved the #CoreOne from a LACK to a BROR table (metal frame) that I also installed leveling feet on. Pretty great. No more eek-eek-eek-eek when it gets moving.
Also comparatively no effort involved. It just costs 10 times more.
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This is by far the largest object I have ever printed. #prusa #coreone #3dprinting
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This is by far the largest object I have ever printed. #prusa #coreone #3dprinting
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This is by far the largest object I have ever printed. #prusa #coreone #3dprinting
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This is by far the largest object I have ever printed. #prusa #coreone #3dprinting
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This is by far the largest object I have ever printed. #prusa #coreone #3dprinting
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Just having a great day.
I loosened the z-axis trapezoidal nuts, and that did completely make the noise go away. Except now the printer won't level properly at all.
Naturally I assumed this was because the bed was too loose and there was too much play, so I tightened the screws in the nuts back up. That didn't fix anything, but did make the z-axis much louder.
Long story short, the thumbscrews that hold the nozzle in were way too loose.
Lubricated the z-axis screws and that completely made the noise go away. Didn't want to look for the Prusa lubricant, so I just used the Mobil stuff. Smells the same as the grease on the rods, so it's probably fine.
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Just having a great day.
I loosened the z-axis trapezoidal nuts, and that did completely make the noise go away. Except now the printer won't level properly at all.
Naturally I assumed this was because the bed was too loose and there was too much play, so I tightened the screws in the nuts back up. That didn't fix anything, but did make the z-axis much louder.
Long story short, the thumbscrews that hold the nozzle in were way too loose.
Lubricated the z-axis screws and that completely made the noise go away. Didn't want to look for the Prusa lubricant, so I just used the Mobil stuff. Smells the same as the grease on the rods, so it's probably fine.
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Like, there is part of a reference to it on the Core One maintenance page. Apparently an older version of the page goes into detail about it.
It is allegedly suggested by Prusa support.
It is suggested for the XL, which has the same general construction as the Core One.
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Like, there is part of a reference to it on the Core One maintenance page. Apparently an older version of the page goes into detail about it.
It is allegedly suggested by Prusa support.
It is suggested for the XL, which has the same general construction as the Core One.
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I've been doing some research (i.e. watched part of a video for 3 minutes) and it seems like you can access the side filament sensor without removing the panel at all?
Mine doesn't work and it seems that the most common issue is that the pivot for the lever inside is too tight so it doesn't move properly.
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I've been doing some research (i.e. watched part of a video for 3 minutes) and it seems like you can access the side filament sensor without removing the panel at all?
Mine doesn't work and it seems that the most common issue is that the pivot for the lever inside is too tight so it doesn't move properly.
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Finally took the time to publish another oddly specific model for #3Dprinting.
Průša CORE One+ Spoolholder for 250g mini spools (eg. Buddy3D, Amolen)
https://www.printables.com/model/1499153-prusa-core-one-spoolholder-for-250g-mini-spools-eg
If you’re occasionally using tiny 200-250g spools, like they come with variety packs, filament tasting sets or generous samples, this model is a reliable solution to spool-wobble.
Locks into place like the original spool holder, but works reliable with tiny spools.
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Finally took the time to publish another oddly specific model for #3Dprinting.
Průša CORE One+ Spoolholder for 250g mini spools (eg. Buddy3D, Amolen)
https://www.printables.com/model/1499153-prusa-core-one-spoolholder-for-250g-mini-spools-eg
If you’re occasionally using tiny 200-250g spools, like they come with variety packs, filament tasting sets or generous samples, this model is a reliable solution to spool-wobble.
Locks into place like the original spool holder, but works reliable with tiny spools.
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Finally took the time to publish another oddly specific model for #3Dprinting.
Průša CORE One+ Spoolholder for 250g mini spools (eg. Buddy3D, Amolen)
https://www.printables.com/model/1499153-prusa-core-one-spoolholder-for-250g-mini-spools-eg
If you’re occasionally using tiny 200-250g spools, like they come with variety packs, filament tasting sets or generous samples, this model is a reliable solution to spool-wobble.
Locks into place like the original spool holder, but works reliable with tiny spools.
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Finally took the time to publish another oddly specific model for #3Dprinting.
Průša CORE One+ Spoolholder for 250g mini spools (eg. Buddy3D, Amolen)
https://www.printables.com/model/1499153-prusa-core-one-spoolholder-for-250g-mini-spools-eg
If you’re occasionally using tiny 200-250g spools, like they come with variety packs, filament tasting sets or generous samples, this model is a reliable solution to spool-wobble.
Locks into place like the original spool holder, but works reliable with tiny spools.
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Finally took the time to publish another oddly specific model for #3Dprinting.
Průša CORE One+ Spoolholder for 250g mini spools (eg. Buddy3D, Amolen)
https://www.printables.com/model/1499153-prusa-core-one-spoolholder-for-250g-mini-spools-eg
If you’re occasionally using tiny 200-250g spools, like they come with variety packs, filament tasting sets or generous samples, this model is a reliable solution to spool-wobble.
Locks into place like the original spool holder, but works reliable with tiny spools.
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Finally, a post about the #Prusa #CoreOne that isn’t a complaint about incompetent factory assembly: did you know the advanced filtration system pretty much won’t run for PLA/PETG unless you lie to the printer about the material type?
I’m not entirely sure what the “DIY filtration” option in firmware does because why would you need to document your software? And I have no reason to think it’s not also filament type dependent.
I understand PLA is not necessarily harmful but it has gotten stinkier over the years and I don’t like it.
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Finally, a post about the #Prusa #CoreOne that isn’t a complaint about incompetent factory assembly: did you know the advanced filtration system pretty much won’t run for PLA/PETG unless you lie to the printer about the material type?
I’m not entirely sure what the “DIY filtration” option in firmware does because why would you need to document your software? And I have no reason to think it’s not also filament type dependent.
I understand PLA is not necessarily harmful but it has gotten stinkier over the years and I don’t like it.
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Finally, a post about the #Prusa #CoreOne that isn’t a complaint about incompetent factory assembly: did you know the advanced filtration system pretty much won’t run for PLA/PETG unless you lie to the printer about the material type?
I’m not entirely sure what the “DIY filtration” option in firmware does because why would you need to document your software? And I have no reason to think it’s not also filament type dependent.
I understand PLA is not necessarily harmful but it has gotten stinkier over the years and I don’t like it.
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There is in fact no calibration procedure for the side filament sensor. You can’t fail QA at the factory if you just don’t Q the A!
It might just be an issue with a magnet not being pushed in far enough, but regardless it’s going to require complete removal of the side panel. Love to get all these basic-ass printer assembly 101 mistakes.
I almost don’t want to bother because the INDX setup obviously doesn’t use this sensor at all, but that would leave me with no way of doing filament runout properly.
I did fix the z-axis binding, I think. I printed the alignment tools but I think it was really just the screws being too tight. Tighten the screws, but not Too Tight!
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There is in fact no calibration procedure for the side filament sensor. You can’t fail QA at the factory if you just don’t Q the A!
It might just be an issue with a magnet not being pushed in far enough, but regardless it’s going to require complete removal of the side panel. Love to get all these basic-ass printer assembly 101 mistakes.
I almost don’t want to bother because the INDX setup obviously doesn’t use this sensor at all, but that would leave me with no way of doing filament runout properly.
I did fix the z-axis binding, I think. I printed the alignment tools but I think it was really just the screws being too tight. Tighten the screws, but not Too Tight!
-
There is in fact no calibration procedure for the side filament sensor. You can’t fail QA at the factory if you just don’t Q the A!
It might just be an issue with a magnet not being pushed in far enough, but regardless it’s going to require complete removal of the side panel. Love to get all these basic-ass printer assembly 101 mistakes.
I almost don’t want to bother because the INDX setup obviously doesn’t use this sensor at all, but that would leave me with no way of doing filament runout properly.
I did fix the z-axis binding, I think. I printed the alignment tools but I think it was really just the screws being too tight. Tighten the screws, but not Too Tight!
-
There is in fact no calibration procedure for the side filament sensor. You can’t fail QA at the factory if you just don’t Q the A!
It might just be an issue with a magnet not being pushed in far enough, but regardless it’s going to require complete removal of the side panel. Love to get all these basic-ass printer assembly 101 mistakes.
I almost don’t want to bother because the INDX setup obviously doesn’t use this sensor at all, but that would leave me with no way of doing filament runout properly.
I did fix the z-axis binding, I think. I printed the alignment tools but I think it was really just the screws being too tight. Tighten the screws, but not Too Tight!
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The print was going fine until the filament ran out. The filament runout process was completely botched, because it turns out the side filament sensor wasn’t working. I couldn't get the PTFE tube out of the hotend so I just had to cancel the print and push out the leftover filament the old fashioned way.
After I simmered down and thought about it, I realized I definitely did the sensor calibration incorrectly because it did not click for me at the time that there are two filament sensors. So, easy fix on this, hopefully. The filament sensor assembly looks very fussy.
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The print was going fine until the filament ran out. The filament runout process was completely botched, because it turns out the side filament sensor wasn’t working. I couldn't get the PTFE tube out of the hotend so I just had to cancel the print and push out the leftover filament the old fashioned way.
After I simmered down and thought about it, I realized I definitely did the sensor calibration incorrectly because it did not click for me at the time that there are two filament sensors. So, easy fix on this, hopefully. The filament sensor assembly looks very fussy.
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The print was going fine until the filament ran out. The filament runout process was completely botched, because it turns out the side filament sensor wasn’t working. I couldn't get the PTFE tube out of the hotend so I just had to cancel the print and push out the leftover filament the old fashioned way.
After I simmered down and thought about it, I realized I definitely did the sensor calibration incorrectly because it did not click for me at the time that there are two filament sensors. So, easy fix on this, hopefully. The filament sensor assembly looks very fussy.
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So, the #Prusa #CoreOne seems to be printing fine. I am definitely getting z-axis binding and there is apparently a procedure for rectifying that.
Not sure if they just didn't do it at the factory or the bed flopping around in transit without one of its mounts attached messed it up. It technically passes the z-axis test just fine, but sounds bad in use.
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So, the #Prusa #CoreOne seems to be printing fine. I am definitely getting z-axis binding and there is apparently a procedure for rectifying that.
Not sure if they just didn't do it at the factory or the bed flopping around in transit without one of its mounts attached messed it up. It technically passes the z-axis test just fine, but sounds bad in use.