#coreone — Public Fediverse posts
Live and recent posts from across the Fediverse tagged #coreone, aggregated by home.social.
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It's another #FreeCADFriday and I share another printable design created with @freecad!
I made magnetic tags to label the printer configuration. This is an easy way to prevent material or nozzle size mixups.
I place them where they are visible through the camera so that they can be seen via #OctoPrint. -
Best PC/ABS print so far. Finally have an another spare part for my sailboat now! #prusa #coreone #sailing #3dprinting
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This is by far the largest object I have ever printed. #prusa #coreone #3dprinting
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Just having a great day.
I loosened the z-axis trapezoidal nuts, and that did completely make the noise go away. Except now the printer won't level properly at all.
Naturally I assumed this was because the bed was too loose and there was too much play, so I tightened the screws in the nuts back up. That didn't fix anything, but did make the z-axis much louder.
Long story short, the thumbscrews that hold the nozzle in were way too loose.
Lubricated the z-axis screws and that completely made the noise go away. Didn't want to look for the Prusa lubricant, so I just used the Mobil stuff. Smells the same as the grease on the rods, so it's probably fine.
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Like, there is part of a reference to it on the Core One maintenance page. Apparently an older version of the page goes into detail about it.
It is allegedly suggested by Prusa support.
It is suggested for the XL, which has the same general construction as the Core One.
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I've been doing some research (i.e. watched part of a video for 3 minutes) and it seems like you can access the side filament sensor without removing the panel at all?
Mine doesn't work and it seems that the most common issue is that the pivot for the lever inside is too tight so it doesn't move properly.
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Finally took the time to publish another oddly specific model for #3Dprinting.
Průša CORE One+ Spoolholder for 250g mini spools (eg. Buddy3D, Amolen)
https://www.printables.com/model/1499153-prusa-core-one-spoolholder-for-250g-mini-spools-eg
If you’re occasionally using tiny 200-250g spools, like they come with variety packs, filament tasting sets or generous samples, this model is a reliable solution to spool-wobble.
Locks into place like the original spool holder, but works reliable with tiny spools.
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Finally, a post about the #Prusa #CoreOne that isn’t a complaint about incompetent factory assembly: did you know the advanced filtration system pretty much won’t run for PLA/PETG unless you lie to the printer about the material type?
I’m not entirely sure what the “DIY filtration” option in firmware does because why would you need to document your software? And I have no reason to think it’s not also filament type dependent.
I understand PLA is not necessarily harmful but it has gotten stinkier over the years and I don’t like it.
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There is in fact no calibration procedure for the side filament sensor. You can’t fail QA at the factory if you just don’t Q the A!
It might just be an issue with a magnet not being pushed in far enough, but regardless it’s going to require complete removal of the side panel. Love to get all these basic-ass printer assembly 101 mistakes.
I almost don’t want to bother because the INDX setup obviously doesn’t use this sensor at all, but that would leave me with no way of doing filament runout properly.
I did fix the z-axis binding, I think. I printed the alignment tools but I think it was really just the screws being too tight. Tighten the screws, but not Too Tight!
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The print was going fine until the filament ran out. The filament runout process was completely botched, because it turns out the side filament sensor wasn’t working. I couldn't get the PTFE tube out of the hotend so I just had to cancel the print and push out the leftover filament the old fashioned way.
After I simmered down and thought about it, I realized I definitely did the sensor calibration incorrectly because it did not click for me at the time that there are two filament sensors. So, easy fix on this, hopefully. The filament sensor assembly looks very fussy.
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So, the #Prusa #CoreOne seems to be printing fine. I am definitely getting z-axis binding and there is apparently a procedure for rectifying that.
Not sure if they just didn't do it at the factory or the bed flopping around in transit without one of its mounts attached messed it up. It technically passes the z-axis test just fine, but sounds bad in use.
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#Prusa #CoreOne continued: it’s been really cold so I let the printer sit overnight. Also I was rather annoyed yesterday.
Step one: remove protective plastic. They installed the rivets on top of the plastic, which means I’m left with these little shreds of plastic film. Also a non-zero chance of pulling the rivets out. The front panel has no film at all and is covered in dust and handprints. Not sure why they wouldn’t install the panels properly and then put plastic on top of everything, like I’ve definitely gotten from a Chinese company.
Step two: plug in the power cable. Just like the MK4S, the outlet does not offer a confident connection. Routing is just weird.
Step three: install build plate.
The whole heat bed fucking wobbled at this point. The left mount is very loose, the rear mount is a little loose, and the right mount has no screws at all. There are no spares included, so this is definitely a showstopper if you don’t have any. M3x18 if you’re asking.
I also looked at the heat bed wiring cover at this point and it looks funny… either a screw is missing or is completely mangled. Nope, it’s a torx head, which is probably sensible.
Why is American manufacturing dead? It offers incredible quality!
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So I spent $xxxx on an "assembled" #Prusa #CoreOne and... the xLCD assembly is missing screws and square nuts. Can you run it like this, yes, but you probably shouldn't.
If it weren't for the fact that this is my 3rd Prusa and I have just enough spare nuts lying around, I'd be dead in the water until at least Wednesday, and that's assuming the local subsidiary addresses my issue and not Prusa in Prague.
As always the Prusa parts have optimistic tolerances so there was some light hammering and inappropriate use of screwdriver bits. But the xLCD is attached now.
Also, I get that these are pseudo-industrial machines, but if you got something new that looked like this from Amazon you'd get refunded. Wear marks all over the place, dust, and some of the paint on the door handle is coming off. On the plus side, no China factory smell.
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The basic #Prusa #CoreOne build is done! Had a few issues with heat sensor wiring (me being an idiot and flipping two cables) and the Z-axis making loud scary sounds and getting stuck. Wires were switches around, bed mounts were loosened and retightened and now it seems to be working. Right now it's doing the fastest and most aggressive #Benchy print I've ever seen. In lipstick red no less. It's pretty awesome to see something you assembled yourself work so flawlessly.
When I say basic, it's because this printer has some way to go still. I'm mounting an #mmu3 and a top filament box. Forgot the name of it, but I'll post an update. Probably not until after Christmas.
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Got an issue with printing #opengrid ...grids: The first layer is still perfect - as I am used to on my C1 - but the second layer then does not stick to the first one very well, as you can see on the image. I guess the issue is that there is a chamfer on the bottom, so the second layer is printed with overhang and thus does not fully connect to the first one.
Any ideas on how to counter that issue?
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Minor setback on the #Prusa #CoreOne build: a linear bearing didn't roll smoothly, so I'm awaiting a replacement. Assembling it yourself means you're doing some of the quality assurance, which is understandable but a little annoying when you - and the living room - is knee deep in the project.
I'm now stuck at the X/Y bridge, and apart from preparing a couple of other things, there isn't a lot I can do.
Probably a good thing, since I need to prepare for the upcoming vehicle convoy to #Ukraine. Hopefully the spare part is waiting for me when I come back! 🙂
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After Prusa moving out of open source hardware, they are now taking two extra steps forward:
1. The Core One L will not be provided as a kit anymore
2. It is very probable that they will adopt patents with the INDX -
Loaded up the Core One 6.4.0-RC firmware and so far, it's great. Did the stroboscopic belt tuning and seem to have nailed it after re-squaring the gantry (again). Homing is much faster and less "bangy".
And maybe it's always done this, but I went to load filament and put the spool on and started threading it into the tube first and it automatically started the "Load Filament" procedure. I usually start it from the panel so I never noticed that was possible.
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#Prusa3D #CoreOne assembled from kit ( https://www.prusa3d.com/product/prusa-core-one-kit/ ) in roughly 36 hours, including 5 hours of sleep and frequent toddler-herding
Quite fun and satisfying
I did make a few mistakes, but wholly my own, and avoidable by reading the actual instructions
Benchy test print (15 minutes) is complete, so I guess I can start planning holiday show-bag gifts for nieces and nephews
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It's printing !
PRUSA CORE one with MMU3, advanced filtration and built-in camera. Luxury of a 3d printer 🥰🥰🥰.
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