#leadacid — Public Fediverse posts
Live and recent posts from across the Fediverse tagged #leadacid, aggregated by home.social.
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I guess when you put lead acid batteries on to the fucking AC, terrorists win. Goddamn !
"Terrorists Win!" reference is from counter strike btw. Don't get any silly ideas...
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I guess when you put lead acid batteries on to the fucking AC, terrorists win. Goddamn !
"Terrorists Win!" reference is from counter strike btw. Don't get any silly ideas...
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I guess when you put lead acid batteries on to the fucking AC, terrorists win. Goddamn !
"Terrorists Win!" reference is from counter strike btw. Don't get any silly ideas...
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I guess when you put lead acid batteries on to the fucking AC, terrorists win. Goddamn !
"Terrorists Win!" reference is from counter strike btw. Don't get any silly ideas...
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I guess when you put lead acid batteries on to the fucking AC, terrorists win. Goddamn !
"Terrorists Win!" reference is from counter strike btw. Don't get any silly ideas...
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Servicing "service-free" (valve regulated) lead-acid batteries.
Crack open the plastic cover to reveal the "valves" which usually are silicone rubber caps. Pop them off, check water* level, top up and inspect the plates if you can see them.
Then charge with maximum voltage (15.0V in this case).
The cover is part of it, so when charging you need to glue, clamp or tape it back on so the valves can do their job.
Optionally, use a desulphator to recover sulphated plates.
This small UPS battery recovered most of its 7 Ah back from almost nothing.
#DIY #Battery #Repair #LeadAcid #VRLA #UPS
* You can buy demineralized water, but if you have a dehumidifier you can use the water from that, which is typically of better quality than what you buy in the store as it is almost pure condensation.
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Servicing "service-free" (valve regulated) lead-acid batteries.
Crack open the plastic cover to reveal the "valves" which usually are silicone rubber caps. Pop them off, check water* level, top up and inspect the plates if you can see them.
Then charge with maximum voltage (15.0V in this case).
The cover is part of it, so when charging you need to glue, clamp or tape it back on so the valves can do their job.
Optionally, use a desulphator to recover sulphated plates.
This small UPS battery recovered most of its 7 Ah back from almost nothing.
#DIY #Battery #Repair #LeadAcid #VRLA #UPS
* You can buy demineralized water, but if you have a dehumidifier you can use the water from that, which is typically of better quality than what you buy in the store as it is almost pure condensation.
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Servicing "service-free" (valve regulated) lead-acid batteries.
Crack open the plastic cover to reveal the "valves" which usually are silicone rubber caps. Pop them off, check water* level, top up and inspect the plates if you can see them.
Then charge with maximum voltage (15.0V in this case).
The cover is part of it, so when charging you need to glue, clamp or tape it back on so the valves can do their job.
Optionally, use a desulphator to recover sulphated plates.
This small UPS battery recovered most of its 7 Ah back from almost nothing.
#DIY #Battery #Repair #LeadAcid #VRLA #UPS
* You can buy demineralized water, but if you have a dehumidifier you can use the water from that, which is typically of better quality than what you buy in the store as it is almost pure condensation.
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Servicing "service-free" (valve regulated) lead-acid batteries.
Crack open the plastic cover to reveal the "valves" which usually are silicone rubber caps. Pop them off, check water* level, top up and inspect the plates if you can see them.
Then charge with maximum voltage (15.0V in this case).
The cover is part of it, so when charging you need to glue, clamp or tape it back on so the valves can do their job.
Optionally, use a desulphator to recover sulphated plates.
This small UPS battery recovered most of its 7 Ah back from almost nothing.
#DIY #Battery #Repair #LeadAcid #VRLA #UPS
* You can buy demineralized water, but if you have a dehumidifier you can use the water from that, which is typically of better quality than what you buy in the store as it is almost pure condensation.
-
Servicing "service-free" (valve regulated) lead-acid batteries.
Crack open the plastic cover to reveal the "valves" which usually are silicone rubber caps. Pop them off, check water* level, top up and inspect the plates if you can see them.
Then charge with maximum voltage (15.0V in this case).
The cover is part of it, so when charging you need to glue, clamp or tape it back on so the valves can do their job.
Optionally, use a desulphator to recover sulphated plates.
This small UPS battery recovered most of its 7 Ah back from almost nothing.
#DIY #Battery #Repair #LeadAcid #VRLA #UPS
* You can buy demineralized water, but if you have a dehumidifier you can use the water from that, which is typically of better quality than what you buy in the store as it is almost pure condensation.
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Lead Acid Battery Upgraded to Lithium Iron Phosphate
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Lead Acid Battery Upgraded to Lithium Iron Phosphate
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Lead Acid Battery Upgraded to Lithium Iron Phosphate
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Lead Acid Battery Upgraded to Lithium Iron Phosphate
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Lead Acid Battery Upgraded to Lithium Iron Phosphate
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My UPS (an Eaton 5e850iUSB-AU) has been angrily beeping at me and saying I need to replace the battery. It's a lead acid. Can I / How do I determine if I can swap it out for a LiFePo instead?
edit: battery is 12V/9AH, and dimensions are approx 150x90x65mm
tl;dr: some LiFePO4 have a BMS that allows them to be charged as if they were lead-acid. They will generally be labelled/described as drop-in replacements for those.
conclusion: Why?! The only upside is lighter weight, which doesn't matter here, and the downsides are increased cost and risk of fire, even if unlikely. Pb ftw.
Thanks to all who played from home!
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My UPS (an Eaton 5e850iUSB-AU) has been angrily beeping at me and saying I need to replace the battery. It's a lead acid. Can I / How do I determine if I can swap it out for a LiFePo instead?
edit: battery is 12V/9AH, and dimensions are approx 150x90x65mm
tl;dr: some LiFePO4 have a BMS that allows them to be charged as if they were lead-acid. They will generally be labelled/described as drop-in replacements for those.
conclusion: Why?! The only upside is lighter weight, which doesn't matter here, and the downsides are increased cost and risk of fire, even if unlikely. Pb ftw.
Thanks to all who played from home!
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My UPS (an Eaton 5e850iUSB-AU) has been angrily beeping at me and saying I need to replace the battery. It's a lead acid. Can I / How do I determine if I can swap it out for a LiFePo instead?
edit: battery is 12V/9AH, and dimensions are approx 150x90x65mm
tl;dr: some LiFePO4 have a BMS that allows them to be charged as if they were lead-acid. They will generally be labelled/described as drop-in replacements for those.
conclusion: Why?! The only upside is lighter weight, which doesn't matter here, and the downsides are increased cost and risk of fire, even if unlikely. Pb ftw.
Thanks to all who played from home!
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My UPS (an Eaton 5e850iUSB-AU) has been angrily beeping at me and saying I need to replace the battery. It's a lead acid. Can I / How do I determine if I can swap it out for a LiFePo instead?
edit: battery is 12V/9AH, and dimensions are approx 150x90x65mm
tl;dr: some LiFePO4 have a BMS that allows them to be charged as if they were lead-acid. They will generally be labelled/described as drop-in replacements for those.
conclusion: Why?! The only upside is lighter weight, which doesn't matter here, and the downsides are increased cost and risk of fire, even if unlikely. Pb ftw.
Thanks to all who played from home!
-
My UPS (an Eaton 5e850iUSB-AU) has been angrily beeping at me and saying I need to replace the battery. It's a lead acid. Can I / How do I determine if I can swap it out for a LiFePo instead?
edit: battery is 12V/9AH, and dimensions are approx 150x90x65mm
tl;dr: some LiFePO4 have a BMS that allows them to be charged as if they were lead-acid. They will generally be labelled/described as drop-in replacements for those.
conclusion: Why?! The only upside is lighter weight, which doesn't matter here, and the downsides are increased cost and risk of fire, even if unlikely. Pb ftw.
Thanks to all who played from home!
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New battery hooked up, and no, its permanent place is not on top of the server. It's actually right behind it.
I drew it down a little bit before hooking it up, just to give it a single discharge and charge cycle. I questioned the accuracy of this meter, but it's not bad as a sanity check. The current jumped around a little bit and is reading about 0.4 amps, but I think it's supposed to be about 0.5 amps. The voltage before I connected it was 12.37 volts.
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New battery hooked up, and no, its permanent place is not on top of the server. It's actually right behind it.
I drew it down a little bit before hooking it up, just to give it a single discharge and charge cycle. I questioned the accuracy of this meter, but it's not bad as a sanity check. The current jumped around a little bit and is reading about 0.4 amps, but I think it's supposed to be about 0.5 amps. The voltage before I connected it was 12.37 volts.
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New battery hooked up, and no, its permanent place is not on top of the server. It's actually right behind it.
I drew it down a little bit before hooking it up, just to give it a single discharge and charge cycle. I questioned the accuracy of this meter, but it's not bad as a sanity check. The current jumped around a little bit and is reading about 0.4 amps, but I think it's supposed to be about 0.5 amps. The voltage before I connected it was 12.37 volts.
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New battery hooked up, and no, its permanent place is not on top of the server. It's actually right behind it.
I drew it down a little bit before hooking it up, just to give it a single discharge and charge cycle. I questioned the accuracy of this meter, but it's not bad as a sanity check. The current jumped around a little bit and is reading about 0.4 amps, but I think it's supposed to be about 0.5 amps. The voltage before I connected it was 12.37 volts.
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New battery hooked up, and no, its permanent place is not on top of the server. It's actually right behind it.
I drew it down a little bit before hooking it up, just to give it a single discharge and charge cycle. I questioned the accuracy of this meter, but it's not bad as a sanity check. The current jumped around a little bit and is reading about 0.4 amps, but I think it's supposed to be about 0.5 amps. The voltage before I connected it was 12.37 volts.
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I have a spare #solar charge controller laying about and some #LeadAcid #batteries. I think it's about time I made a battery backed 12 V bus instead of relying on one 48 V DC-DC
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I have a spare #solar charge controller laying about and some #LeadAcid #batteries. I think it's about time I made a battery backed 12 V bus instead of relying on one 48 V DC-DC
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I have a spare #solar charge controller laying about and some #LeadAcid #batteries. I think it's about time I made a battery backed 12 V bus instead of relying on one 48 V DC-DC
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I have a spare #solar charge controller laying about and some #LeadAcid #batteries. I think it's about time I made a battery backed 12 V bus instead of relying on one 48 V DC-DC
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I have a spare #solar charge controller laying about and some #LeadAcid #batteries. I think it's about time I made a battery backed 12 V bus instead of relying on one 48 V DC-DC
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Experiment to power a #RPI Model 2 B+ with DC power of #12V #leadacid #accu - these are cheap (if heavy) and widely used in burglar alarms etc easier to build charge/monitor circuits (including solar panels) than Li-ion accus
L+ 5V DC to the RPI is supplied via a cig lighter converter, £6 from ASDA (UK Walmart).
Even using x-windows and HDMI display converter draws about 0,25A at 12V, which isn't too bad (there would be conversion losses)
