#freecrochetpattern — Public Fediverse posts

Crochet Sugar Skull Potholder (Free Pattern)

https://duffneysbirdbarn.wordpress.com/2026/08/06/crochet-sugar-skull-potholder-free-pattern/

Meet Your New Favorite Beginner Crochet Project: The Classic Granny Square

If you’ve ever wanted to learn to crochet but didn’t know where to begin, the Basic Granny Square is one of the best first projects you can make.

It’s simple, forgiving, relaxing, and teaches many of the foundational skills you’ll use in countless crochet projects. Best of all, by the time you’ve finished your first square, you’ll have learned techniques that can be used to make blankets, bags, scarves, pillows, garments, and so much more.

Why Start with a Granny Square?

There are hundreds of beginner crochet projects online, but the granny square has remained a favorite for generations—and for good reason.

As you work through the pattern, you’ll learn how to:

• Create a starting ring
• Make chain stitches
• Work double crochet stitches
• Form corners
• Read a simple crochet pattern
• Work in rounds
• Finish and weave in your ends

Instead of learning just one stitch, you’re learning the building blocks of crochet itself.

Written for Absolute Beginners

Many crochet patterns claim to be beginner-friendly, but they’re often written for people who already know the language of crochet.

This pattern takes a different approach.

Every step is written in plain English with complete explanations instead of assuming you already know what to do. Rather than simply telling you to “work into the corner space,” the pattern explains exactly where that space is and why you’re working there.

Whether you’ve never held a crochet hook before or you’re returning after years away, you’ll be able to follow along with confidence.

A Video Tutorial at Your Fingertips

One of my favorite features of this updated pattern is the addition of a scannable QR code.

Simply scan the code with your phone, and you’ll be taken directly to the companion YouTube video tutorial. You can watch each step as you crochet, making it easy to pause, rewind, and work at your own pace.

It’s like having a crochet teacher sitting beside you whenever you need a little extra guidance.

Practice Without Pressure

One of the best things about granny squares is that they’re incredibly forgiving.

Made a mistake? Simply unravel a few stitches and try again.

Finished one square? Make another! Every square helps build your confidence, and you’ll quickly notice your stitches becoming more even and your tension improving.

Remember, nobody’s first granny square is perfect—and it doesn’t have to be.

What Can You Make?

Once you’ve mastered the basic granny square, the possibilities are almost endless.

Here are just a few ideas:

• Cozy blankets
• Pillow covers
• Tote bags
• Table runners
• Coasters
• Baby blankets
• Cardigans
• Shawls
• Market bags
• Wall hangings

It’s amazing how one simple square can become so many different projects.

A Few Beginner Tips

As you’re learning, keep these suggestions in mind:

• Choose a light-colored yarn so your stitches are easier to see.
• Cotton yarn is an excellent choice because it has great stitch definition.
• Don’t rush. Crochet is meant to be relaxing.
• Count your corners often—they’ll help you know you’re on the right track.
• If you decide to make your square larger than five rounds, remember to turn your work after each round to help prevent the center from twisting.

Download the Free Pattern

If you’ve been looking for the perfect first crochet project, this is it.

The updated Basic Granny Square pattern includes:

• Step-by-step written instructions
• Beginner-friendly explanations
• Helpful designer tips
• A companion YouTube tutorial accessible with a scannable QR code
• Ideas for turning your granny squares into future projects

Whether your goal is to make a cozy blanket or simply learn a new hobby, this pattern is designed to help you build confidence one stitch at a time.

So grab your favorite yarn, pick up a hook, and make your very first granny square. It just might be the beginning of a lifelong love of crochet.

Free Americana Star Coaster Crochet Pattern

There’s something about handmade decorations that makes a holiday feel just a little more special. Maybe it’s the time spent creating them or the memories that become attached to them year after year. Whatever the reason, I always find myself reaching for my crochet hook when a celebration is around the corner.

This Americana Star Coaster is a quick project that’s perfect for the Fourth of July, summer cookouts, family picnics, or simply adding a touch of red, white, and blue to your home. It works up quickly, uses only a small amount of yarn, and makes a thoughtful handmade gift for hosts, neighbors, teachers, or anyone who enjoys patriotic décor.

Whether you make a single coaster for your favorite iced drink or a whole stack for your holiday table, I hope this little project becomes part of your summer traditions.

Why You’ll Love This Pattern

• Quick enough to finish in an evening.
• Great for using leftover yarn.
• Beginner-friendly with basic crochet stitches.
• Perfect for summer entertaining.
• Makes a wonderful handmade gift.

Skill Level

Advanced Beginner

Finished Size

Approximately 5 inches across after blocking.

Materials

• Worsted weight cotton yarn
• 5 mm (H/8) crochet hook
• Yarn needle
• Scissors

Cotton yarn is recommended because it holds its shape well and stands up nicely to everyday use.

Pattern Notes

Read through the pattern before you begin.

Blocking is recommended to help the star points open up and lay flat.

Feel free to experiment with color placement. While I chose classic Americana colors, this design looks beautiful in farmhouse neutrals, coastal blues, Christmas colors, or any combination that matches your décor.

Americana Star Coaster Pattern

Pattern Copyright © 2026 HodgePodge Crochet. You are welcome to sell finished items made from this pattern with credit to HodgePodge Crochet as the designer. Please do not copy, rewrite, or redistribute the pattern in whole or in part.

Can’t see the pattern because of a blocker? You can find it over in my Ravelry and Payhip shops.

Finishing

Once you’ve woven in all of the ends, gently block the coaster to help define the points of the star. A light steam block or wet block works well, depending on the fiber you’re using.

If you’re making a set, stack them together with a ribbon for an easy handmade gift that’s both practical and personal.

Make It Your Own

One of my favorite things about simple patterns like this is how easily they can be customized.

Try making a set in soft blues and sandy beige for a coastal look, rich burgundy and cream for farmhouse style, or festive reds and greens for the holidays. The same design can be enjoyed all year with just a change of color.

If you have leftover cotton yarn from previous projects, this is also a great way to put those small scraps to good use.

Share Your Finished Project

I’d love to see your version of the Americana Star Coaster! If you make one, share a photo on social media and tag HodgePodge Crochet so I can admire your beautiful work.

Seeing your finished projects is one of the best parts of designing patterns, and it’s always inspiring to see the different color combinations and creative touches you add.

More Free Crochet Patterns

If you enjoyed this project, be sure to browse the rest of the crochet patterns here on HodgePodge Crochet. You’ll find shawls, scarves, accessories, home décor, and plenty of other designs to keep your hook busy throughout the year.

Happy crocheting, and I hope you have a safe, joyful, and memorable Fourth of July!

The Only Crochet Dish Scrubby I Use in My Kitchen (Free Pattern)

https://duffneysbirdbarn.wordpress.com/2026/07/02/the-only-crochet-dish-scrubby-i-use-in-my-kitchen-free-pattern/

Intermediate Crochet Edging Pattern for Blankets (With Video Tutorial)

Have you ever finished a blanket, admired your handiwork, and thought, “You know what this needs? A little something extra.”

Or maybe you’ve stared at a finished blanket and thought, “Nope. Don’t touch it. If I add one more stitch, I’ll end up frogging the whole thing.”

I understand both feelings.

My Rolling Tide Ripple Blanket was originally designed to be completely borderless. The ripples create a beautiful finished edge all on their own, and honestly, I love the look just as it is.

But sometimes you want a border.

Maybe you want to frame your blanket. Maybe you have a few yards of yarn left. Maybe you simply enjoy making decorative edges. (No judgment here. Some of us think crocheting a border is the best part.)

That’s exactly why this crochet edging exists.

This intermediate-level border combines crossed treble crochet stitches, textured dc3tog clusters, and decorative front-facing picots to create a beautiful edge that works on far more than just ripple blankets.

It looks fantastic on:

• Ripple blankets
• Granny square blankets
• Solid afghans
• Baby blankets
• Lapghans
• Throws
• Home décor projects

The finished edging has wonderful texture, plenty of visual interest, and just enough detail to keep things fun without becoming overly complicated.

Love beautiful crochet edgings, free patterns, and step-by-step tutorials?

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Watch the Video Tutorial

If you’d like to crochet along with me step-by-step, be sure to watch the full video tutorial below.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IWngDcuxGKg

The written instructions below are intended to supplement the video tutorial.

Skill Level

Intermediate

Crochet Terms

US Crochet Terminology

Special Stitches

Crossed Treble Crochet (Crossed tr)

Skip the next stitch, work a treble crochet in the following stitch, then working behind the previous treble crochet, work a treble crochet in the skipped stitch. This creates a decorative crossed effect.

dc3tog (Double Crochet 3 Together)

Yarn over and insert hook into the indicated space. Yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Repeat twice more in same space. Yarn over and pull through all 4 remaining loops on the hook.

Front Picot

Ch 3. Insert hook into the 2 front vertical bars of the single crochet directly below the chain and slip stitch to form the picot. This creates a picot that sits on the front of the edging rather than on top of the chain.

Notes

• This border can be added to virtually any blanket.
• Round 1 serves as an adjustment round and allows you to customize the spacing to fit your project.
• Each side should have an even number of chain-2 spaces at the end of Round 1.
• Corner stitches are marked to simplify placement in later rounds.

Written Pattern

Rnd 1: Beginning in any corner, work 3 sc in the corner. *Ch 2, skip a few stitches along the side of the blanket as needed, sc in the next stitch; repeat from * across to the next corner. Work 3 sc in the corner. Repeat around the blanket, joining to the first sc with a slip stitch.

Note: Each side should have an even number of ch-2 spaces.

Rnd 2: Join with a sc in the first corner sc. Work sc in the same stitch, sc in the next sc, and place a marker in this stitch to mark the corner. Work 2 sc in the next sc.

*2 sc in the next ch-2 space, skip the next sc; repeat from * across to the next corner.

Corner: Skip the next sc, 2 sc in the next sc, sc in the next sc (place a marker in this stitch to mark the corner), 2 sc in the next sc.

Repeat from * around the blanket. Join with a slip stitch to the first sc.

Rnd 3: Beginning 3 stitches before the marked corner stitch, join yarn and ch 4 (counts as a tr). Work a tr in the stitch to the right of the beginning ch-4 to form the first crossed tr pair.

*Skip 1 st, tr in next st, working behind the previous tr, tr in the skipped st; repeat from * across to the next corner, working the first tr of the final crossed tr pair in the marked corner stitch.

Corner: Ch 3, then work a crossed tr pair using the next stitch and the marked corner stitch.

Repeat from * around. Join to the top of the beginning ch-4.

Rnd 4: Join yarn in any space between crossed tr pairs. Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), sc in the same space.

*Ch 1, skip the next crossed tr pair, sc in the space between the next crossed tr pair; repeat from * to the corner.

Corner: Work (sc, ch 1, sc, ch 1, sc) in the corner ch-3 space.

Repeat from * around. Join with a slip stitch to the first sc.

Rnd 5: Join yarn in any sc on any side. Ch 3 (counts as a dc).

*Work a dc3tog in the next ch-1 space; repeat from * across to the next corner.

Corner: Work 3 dc in the center sc of the corner.

Repeat from * around. Join with a slip stitch to the top of the beginning ch-3.

Rnd 6: Join yarn in the top of any dc on any side. Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), sc in the same dc, ch 1, skip the next dc3tog.

*Sc in the next dc, ch 1, skip the next dc3tog; repeat from * across to the next corner.

Corner: Work (sc, ch 1, sc) in the center dc of the corner.

Ch 1, sc in the next dc, ch 1, skip the next dc3tog.

Repeat from * around. Join with a slip stitch to the first sc.

Rnd 7: Join yarn in any ch-1 space on any side. Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), sc in the same ch-1 space.

*Ch 1, skip the next sc, sc in the next ch-1 space; repeat from * across to the next corner.

Corner: Work (sc, ch 1, sc) in the corner ch-1 space.

Ch 1, skip the next sc, sc in the next ch-1 space.

Repeat from * around. Join with a slip stitch to the first sc.

Rnd 8: Join yarn in any ch-1 space on any side. Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), sc in the same ch-1 space, work a picot, sc in the same ch-1 space.

*Skip the next sc, work (sc, work a picot, sc) in the next ch-1 space; repeat from * around.

Join with a slip stitch to the first sc. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Final Thoughts

One of my favorite things about crochet borders is how dramatically they can change the look of a project. It’s a little like putting a frame around a piece of artwork. The blanket may already be finished, but a beautiful edging can make the entire project feel complete.

If you add this border to one of your projects, I’d love to see it! Share your finished photos and be sure to tag me so I can admire your handiwork.

Happy Crocheting!

— Tanya
HodgePodge Crochet

Skull Granny Square Crochet Pattern

Few crochet motifs are as recognizable as the granny square.

Whether you’ve been crocheting for decades or picked up a hook last week, chances are you’ve encountered one. Granny squares have been used in blankets, clothing, bags, home décor, and just about every other crochet project imaginable. They’re simple, versatile, portable, and endlessly customizable.

But the granny square wasn’t always the colorful patchwork icon we know today.

A Brief History of the Granny Square

The origins of the granny square are somewhat debated, but crochet itself became increasingly popular during the nineteenth century. Early crochet publications featured motifs and lace designs, though the classic granny square as we recognize it today did not become widespread until much later.

By the 1970s, granny squares had exploded in popularity. Bright colors, scrap yarn projects, and handmade fashion were everywhere. Crochet enthusiasts began joining individual squares together to create afghans, vests, ponchos, purses, and even entire outfits.

One of the reasons granny squares became so beloved is their practicality. Small amounts of leftover yarn could be transformed into useful projects rather than being thrown away. The humble granny square quickly became one of the most accessible crochet motifs ever created.

The Evolution of the Granny Square

Over the years, crocheters have proven that a granny square can be much more than a simple cluster stitch design.

Today’s granny squares feature:

• Flowers
• Sunbursts
• Animals
• Seasonal themes
• Geometric designs
• Mandalas
• Pop culture characters
• Three-dimensional textures
• Intricate colorwork

Modern crochet designers continue pushing the boundaries of what can fit inside a square.

Which brings us to skulls.

Why Skull Granny Squares?

Skulls have become surprisingly popular in the crochet world. While they are often associated with Halloween, many crocheters enjoy incorporating them into gothic, alternative, fantasy, and year-round spooky projects.

A skull motif adds personality and visual interest while still maintaining the practicality of a granny square. Once completed, skull squares can be joined together just like traditional motifs to create larger projects.

The result is something that feels both classic and modern at the same time.

Meet the Skull Granny Square

This Skull Granny Square combines a textured skull motif with decorative petal rounds and a traditional square finish.

The finished square measures approximately 5 inches and works up quickly, making it perfect for stash-busting projects or larger motif-based designs.

Use a single color for a dramatic silhouette or experiment with multiple colors to create a completely different look.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S12ufbweIVU

Project Ideas

Not sure what to do with your Skull Granny Squares?

Try using them for:

• Halloween blankets
• Gothic afghans
• Tote bags
• Market bags
• Pillows
• Wall hangings
• Table runners
• Cardigans
• Hooded scarves
• Book sleeves
• Decorative panels

Or simply make one square and enjoy the process. Sometimes that’s enough.

The Surprisingly Interesting History of the Humble Coaster

If you’ve ever set your coffee mug on a crocheted coaster and wondered who first decided that cups needed their own tiny rugs, you’re not alone.

The history of the coaster is much older—and much more interesting—than most people realize.

Before Coasters Existed

For much of history, people simply placed their cups, mugs, tankards, and goblets directly on tables. While this wasn’t a problem for rough wooden furniture, it became a bigger issue as homes became more refined and expensive furniture became more common.

By the Victorian era, beautifully finished wood tables were a point of pride. Unfortunately, they were also highly vulnerable to water rings, heat marks, and spills.

Something had to be done.

Enter the Coaster

The first recognizable coasters appeared in the late 1800s. Early versions were often made from cork, felt, silver, porcelain, or pressed paper.

The name “coaster” actually comes from a different object altogether. Wealthy households often used small trays or stands that would “coast” around the dinner table carrying wine bottles from one guest to another. Over time, the name became associated with the smaller protective mats we use today.

Crocheters Get Involved

It didn’t take long for crocheters to put their own spin on the idea.

By the late 19th and early 20th centuries, crochet was enjoying enormous popularity. Women created decorative household items including doilies, table runners, antimacassars, and, of course, coasters.

Unlike today’s minimalist designs, many vintage crochet coasters looked like miniature doilies. They featured shells, picots, lacework, and delicate edging that transformed an ordinary household object into something beautiful.

Many of those patterns were passed from generation to generation and became treasured family heirlooms.

The Golden Age of Handmade Home Decor

For much of the twentieth century, handcrafted items filled family homes.

Crocheted coasters sat beneath coffee cups during visits with neighbors. They protected end tables while family members gathered around the television. They appeared at church socials, holiday dinners, and countless kitchen tables.

For many people, seeing a crocheted coaster today instantly brings back memories of parents, grandparents, or favorite relatives.

It’s amazing how a simple piece of yarn can hold so much nostalgia.

Why Coasters Still Matter Today

Modern furniture may be different, but coasters remain as useful as ever.

They help prevent water rings, protect surfaces from heat, and add a touch of personality to a room.

More importantly, handmade coasters allow us to slow down and create something both beautiful and practical.

In a world filled with disposable products, there’s something satisfying about making an item that will be used every day.

Bringing a Little History to Your Table

That’s one of the reasons I designed the Vintage Coaster pattern.

https://youtu.be/zee0k5rYe_8

I wanted something that captured the charm of those old-fashioned crocheted pieces while still being practical for modern life. The shells, picots, and lace-inspired details give a nod to the coasters our grandmothers may have used, while the size and construction make them perfect for today’s coffee cups and tea mugs.

Every time I look at one, I can’t help but think about all the crocheters who came before us—stitching away at their kitchen tables, creating beautiful things for the people they loved.

And honestly, that’s one tradition worth keeping alive.

Do you remember crocheted coasters in your family’s home? I’d love to hear your memories in the comments below.

Happy crocheting!

❤️ Tanya
HodgePodge Crochet

The Crochet Market Bag I Actually Use

There’s a funny thing that happens when you design crochet patterns for years.

You make beautiful things.
You photograph them.
You admire them.
You fold them carefully.

…and sometimes they quietly disappear into a closet.

But every once in a while, a project becomes part of your actual life.

This market bag became one of those projects for me.

It started simply enough — cotton yarn, a crochet hook, and an idea I couldn’t quite let go of. I wanted something lightweight but sturdy. Something soft, stretchy, practical, and beautiful at the same time. A bag that could hold fresh fruit from the market one day and yarn the next.

Living in Morocco has changed the way I think about handmade things.

There are colors everywhere here. Crates of oranges stacked in the sun. Worn terracotta walls. Olive trees. Market baskets. Fabric textures. Blue tiles. Dusty pink flower pots. Life feels layered and handmade in a way that’s hard to explain until you experience it.

I think this bag quietly absorbed some of that feeling.

The mesh stretches naturally when you use it, and instead of fighting that characteristic, I decided to design around it. I wanted the bag to drape beautifully when empty but expand when filled. I wanted it to feel lived-in instead of stiff and over-engineered.

And honestly?
It became the bag I kept reaching for.

Not because it was perfect.
Not because it photographed well.
But because it worked.

It followed me into grocery stores, outdoor markets, quick errands, and quiet afternoons. At one point, it even became the temporary storage location for yarn, oranges, receipts, and a crochet hook all at the same time — which feels like the most realistic crochet bag review possible.

And of course, no crochet project in this house is ever completed without cat involvement.

At some point during filming, a cat fell asleep directly on top of the yarn skein I was using. Production immediately stopped because apparently the yarn no longer belonged to me.

Honestly, that moment perfectly captured the spirit of this project:
slow afternoons,
sunlight,
soft cotton yarn,
and making something useful with your own hands.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HXHOoyHqpHw

That’s what I love most about crochet.

Not perfection.
Not trends.
Not constantly chasing the next project.

Just creating things that quietly become part of everyday life.

So if you decide to make this market bag too, I hope it becomes one of those projects for you — the kind that gets tossed over your shoulder on the way out the door, stretched with groceries, filled with yarn, carried to the beach, or used far more than you ever expected.

And if it ends up full of oranges at least once…
I feel like you’re using it correctly.

Modified Box Stitch | Crochet

I just came to the end of a week-long adventure working out a stripe on my current afghan project. It’s a happy ending — I now have a version of box stitch that’s

• Truly reversible
• A full notch easier to work
• A bit lighter and slightly less of a yarn hog.

I have a whole story to tell, but if you want, you can jump to the instructions.

The story began when I decided to include Box Stitch in the striped afghan I’m currently working on. It’s a really great-looking stitch, and I had in mind the perfect place to use it. I’d never tried that stitch before, so I headed to a detailed photo tutorial. That may have been my first mistake. But it certainly wasn’t my last. Here’s what happened:

Day 1

• I read the tutorial,
• Figured out how to start on a bed of established stitches (rather than a chain),
• And laid down the first (2-row) stripe.

Day 2

• I brought up the tutorial, made the next (4-row) stripe,
• Noticed that the wrong side didn’t look great,
• Decided it wasn’t bad enough to pull out four rows and figure out how to make it better,
• Worked the next (4-row) stripe,
• Looked at the wrong side again and decided I’m not frogging 4+ hours of work, and…
• Weaved in all the ends. (Foreshadowing? Maybe.)

Day 3

• I studied the tutorial and “realized” I’d been doing it wrong,
• Undid the two full stripes, carefully preserving all the yarn,
• Made a stripe the “correct” way
  (Hmmm… what’s with all the scare quotes, Rachel?),
• And put it away because my head needed a break.
  

Day 4

• I decided the tutorial I was using was too hard to follow,
• Made another stripe. carefully following along with a very clear video…
• Checked the wrong side and saw that it was different from the correction I made the day before,

• Removed the two reworked stripes,
• Attempted to do it the “wrong” way (from Day 3)
  because I thought the wrong side was better when I did it “wrong”…
• Decided the wrong side still didn’t look good enough.
  
• And put it away for mental health reasons.

Day 5

• I frogged the Day 4 rows,
• Worked out a modification I was happy with (it only took three tries)
• Made one stripe the new way…
• And put it away because my head needed a break. (Are we sensing a theme here?)
  

Day 6

• I finished the next 2 stripes (Woot!),

• Figured out how to even out the top.
  (Nope, I didn’t get it on the first try.
  Who would have guessed?),
• Made the first of 2 rows for the filling-in part…
  
• And put it away
  because my head was done for the day.

Day 7

• Finished it!
• Did a happy dance.

After all that, I figured the least I could do was share. After all, making one section of a sampler afghan was not enough to justify all that work.

So finally, the moment you’ve all been waiting for, here it is…

The Instructions!

The part between *’s in the row summaries represents the repeating group. Basic crochet abbreviations and chart symbols are available from a link on the sidebar.

Next up… (guess what?)

Special stitches:    

• Fan stitch (Fan): Work [5 dcs, ch1, 5 dcs] into the same st or ch sp.
• V stitch (V st):  Work [dc ch2, dc] into the same st.
• Front post single crochet (video) (FPsc):
  Insert hook from front to back; working around the post of a stitch on the previous row, make a single crochet.

Repeats and counting

Now we’re getting serious. This is designed to work on a bed of existing sc-width stitches or a chainless foundation.

But before you hurry off to work the first pattern row…
Place stitch markers. Really. Do this. It’s very easy to miscount in the first row.

• Place a stitch marker on the 18th stitch.
• Then place another marker every 24 stitches
  (that should leave a multiple-of-8-minus-1 stitches after the last marker.)

Oh yes, and don’t forget… this stitch works with 2 colors. Their names are A and B. Now to really get serious. (Yes. I mean it this time.)

Foundation row

Let’s say we start with a multiple of 8 + 1 scs.

Row 1

R1: (Fan Row) Begin with color A, ch1, sc in first st,
*sk next 3 sts, Fan in next st, sk next 3 sts, sc in next st* to end.

(beg sc, *sk3, Fan, sk 3, sc*)

Row 2

R2: (FPsc Row) ch1, turn, sc in first st,
*sc around post of each of next 5 dcs (that’s 5 FPscs up the side of the Fan), ch1, sc around post of each of next 5 dcs (down the Fan), sc around legs of next sc between Fans (to make the 11th and last FPsc of the repeating group)*,
rep from * to last Fan, work [5 FPscs, ch1, 5 FPscs] in last Fan, sc in last sc.

(beg sc, *[5 FPscs, ch1, 6 FPscs]*, end [5 FPscs, ch1, 5 FPscs] + 1 sc)

Row 3

R3: (V row) Join color B, ch4 (counts as dc + ch1), turn, dc in first sc,
*ch3, sc in ch1 sp 2 rows below (at top of Fan), ch3, V st in next sc (between Fans 2 rows below)*,
rep between *’s to last Fan, work [dc, ch1, dc] in last st.

(beg [ch4, dc], *ch3, sc, ch3, V st*, end [dc, ch1, dc])

Row 4

R4: (Fan row) ch3, turn, work 4 dcs into first chsp,
*sc in next ch1 sp 2 rows below (between FPscs at top of Fan), work a Fan into the ch2 sp of the next V*, rep between *’s to top of the opposite-color-fan, work 4 dcs in last chsp, dc in last sc.

(beg ch3 + 4dcs, *Fan, sc*, end 5 dcs)

Row 5

R5: (FPsc Row) ch1, turn, sc in first dc, sc around posts of each of next 4 dcs,
*sc around legs of next sc, sc around post of each of next 5 dcs, ch1, sc around posts of each of next 5 scs*,
rep between *’s to last half-fan,
sc around posts of next 4 dcs, sc in top of turning chain.

(beg 1 sc + 4 FPscs, *6 FPscs, ch1, 5 FPscs*, end 4 FPscs + 1 sc)

Rows 6 – 8

R6:  (V Row) Join color A, ch1, turn, sc in first st,
*ch3, (sk the dcs), make a V st in next sc 2 rows below, ch3, sc in next ch1 sp (between dcs at top of Fan)*,
rep between *’s to end, ch3, sc in last st.
(beg sc, *ch3, V st, ch3, sc*, end ch3 + sc)

R7: (Fan row) ch1, turn, sc in first sc (sk next ch3 sp),
*Fan in next ch2 sp (middle of V st), sk next ch3 sp, sc in ch1 sp 3 rows below*, rep between *’s to end.
(beg sc, *Fan, sc*)

R9: Repeat row 2

Filling in the Curves

For the last 3 rows, I’ve gone away from the pattern rows of the box stitch to fill in the curves, and end with a normal stitch depth.

Definitions:

Zipper Stitch (Zip): 
Insert hook through back loop of st 2 rows below (the row nearest you)
and the front loop of the st in same position one row below,
working through those 2 inside loops,
make a sc.

ch pair: 2 matching chain stitches, one from each of the previous two rows (see image next to zipper stitch definition.)

sc pair: 2 matching scs, one from each of the previous 2 rows.

And finally… the 3 filling-in rows

I’ll write the next steps as if 1 of this section is the same as row 6 of the main pattern, but of course it could be shifted if you end on a different stripe.

R1: Change colors ,ch1, turn, sc in first st,
*ch2, (sk the dcs), make a V st in next sc 2 rows below, ch2, sc in next ch1 sp (between dcs at top of Fan)*,
rep between *’s to end, ch2, sc in last st.
(beg sc, *ch2, V st, ch2, sc*, end ch2 + sc)

R2: Make one more V row on the other side as follows:
 ch1, turn, sc in first sc, *ch2, make a V st in next FPsc 2 rows below (the side facing you), ch2, sc in next ch1 sp (still the side facing you)*, rep between *’s across, ch3, V st in next FPsc 2 rows below, ch3, sc in last sc.
(beg sc, *ch3, V st, ch3, sc*, end ch3 + sc)

R3:  ch1, turn, sc in first sc,
work a Zip st in each chain pair across (skipping sc pairs), sc in last sc.

So that’s the whole story… well, it’s a chapter. Here’s where I am (so far) on the whole story.

A few closing thoughts.

This modified stitch is perfect for my afghan. It’s not as dramatic as regular box stitch, but being reversible and quicker to work up are things that matter for an afghan. Next year, I think I’ll made throw pillows for each of my daughters, in colors from each of their samplers. Regular box stitch will be great for pillows. No one’s gonna see the wrong side on a pillow (unless you have X-ray vision?) and they’re smaller, so taking more time will be fine.

I hope you found something either useful or funny in this post. And if you made it all the way here to this paragraph, Thank You!

P.S. If you give this stitch a try, I’d absolutely love to hear about it. If you find any mistakes in these instructions, or have questions, please let me know!

Because frankly, I’m sick to death of them at the moment and can’t properly proofread.

Solid Flexi Hexi Longline Cardi by Melu Crochet

Finding the perfect hexagon cardigan fit can be tricky, but the Solid Flexi Hexi Longline Cardi makes it effortless with its elongated hexagon design. 

I wanted to design a cardi that felt approachable for everyone, whether you’ve made lots of garments or are picking up your hook for your very first one. The elongated hexagon construction keeps things simple while giving you plenty of room to customise, from cropped to floor-length, in your favourite yarns and colours.

This innovative, no-sew pattern allows you to crochet both halves seamlessly, eliminating extra rows and ensuring a smooth, streamlined finish. It also makes it much easier to work with colour-changing yarn, so your colours flow beautifully without horizontal lines along the bottom.

The stitches are wonderfully simple, which makes this a brilliant choice if you’ve never tackled a garment before. Designed for intermediate crocheters, the pattern is easy to follow, with a detailed chart, step-by-step photo tutorial, and plenty of images to guide you. Think of it as a confidence-boosting project that looks impressive when you wear it for a day out or a cosy evening in.

The pattern includes 11 lengths and five sizes, so you can make the perfect fit for yourself. Whether you fancy a cropped cardi, something mid-length, or a dramatic floor-skimming version, there’s an option to suit every height and shape.

The Solid Flexi Hexi Longline Cardi Crochet Pattern is now available as a PDF download in my Etsy shop, Ravelry , LoveCrafts, and Payhip

You can also order a printed paperback copy book from Amazon (UK) version and Amazon (US Version)

pin for later

https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/862228291196945554/

Materials 

6mm hook

Aran/Medium (Size 4) 61% cotton, 39% Acrylic

I used Hobbii Cascata yarn, Color: Angel (01) 

Stitch markers I find it much easier to use different colours as these are used in the pattern to show the corners I am working on

Yarn Needle

See table below for sizing

Choose from 11 different lengths!

The pattern includes options for lengths A-K

I loved making this long version of my Solid Flexi Hexi Longline Cardi. I used hobbii Cascata in this gorgeous colour Nachi (04) – it is a lovely mix of pinks, reds and almost a maroon tinge coming in every now and then. My lovely sister claimed this on about row 3 so her payment was modelling it for me 👏🩷 this is Length G, size M/L

Here you can see the finished extended hexis, just about to be joined:

Testers!

I’ve been lucky to work with an incredible group of testers who helped make the Solid Flexi Hexi Longline Cardi pattern clear, easy to follow, and a joy to crochet! A huge thank you to the talented makers listed below—your creativity, input, and support mean so much to me. I love seeing how each cardigan looks in different colours, yarns, lengths, and sizes—it’s amazing how unique every version is! 😍

Meet the amazing makers behind these gorgeous cardigans: click on their links to visit their Instagram, Facebook, or TikTok profiles; you’ll love seeing more of their beautiful creations and creative journeys!

Shino @shino_the_octopus made size XS/S in length A. She used I Love This Yarn in Navy. Crafter’s Secret in white and light blue

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Aiko @kaiandliamscrochet TIKTOK: @kailiam, FACEBOOK: Kai and Liam’s Crochet
made size XS/S in length A. She used “Snow Princess Brand (Shade of Sakura)

I love that the pattern only used basic stitches and the pattern is really easy to follow.

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Ebony @Ebonyfiercecreations made size 3X/4X in length B. She used red heart super savers in white, light grey, granny square Aran and granny square soft white frigid

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Milly @millyanderson5087 made XL/2XL size and the C length using Fiddlesticks FINCH

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Jess @Stubborn_stitcher used Stylecraft serene Aran, shade 6221 Quiet Coral to make Size M/L in length B

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Laure @chou.rose made size XS/S in length B using Alison & Mae Festival yarn colour 589557 100% acrylique

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Jana R used Sirdar Jewelspun Aran, Tourmaline Dream to make size XL/2X in length C

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Joan @joansmith6291 made size M/L, length C in I Love This Yarn Print #708 Strawberry Jam

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Megan @Mdampiermcneil made size L/XL length C using Hobbii Frutta – colour 6 – forest clearing

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Sue H @sue.hogg.777 Made size XL/2X, length C in Sirdar, Jewelspun Ombre – Rainbow Glow

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Beth @dela.bunny made size XL/2X and length D using K&C superwash merino wool hand dyed (the two brighter colors) in purple coleus flower & plum jam (RIP JOANN), “Peruvian Baby Alpaca” from Temu in #18 sauce purple.

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Karen @styledwithkare made size XL/2X length D using Caron Jumbo Prints Easter Basket Yarn

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Kianna @Kianna_webb made size XL/2X and length D using Lion Brand Yarn Landscapes Breeze in Rainforest

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LeeAnn @stitchcraftcreations_ made size XL/2X in length D Red Heart Super Saver, Weight 4, Baby Blanket (Old) and Light Pink

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Sarai @lacocinha made size XL/2X in length D using Red Heart Super Saver in Wildflower

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Veronica @learning.to.count.in.stitches made size M/L size in length D Caron Blossom Cake in color Charcoal

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Mandy @madebymandymoonpie made size XL/2X in length E using Juniper Moon Farms Cumulus in King Coconut and Oak

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Robin @yarn_candy_by_robin Made size XL/2X length E using Caron Blossom Cake in Macaw

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Kaity @the_nerdy_therapists made size 3X/4X in length F Pound of love , Waterfall

 this was a very fun and easy pattern to make! I loved all the pictures that made it very easy to make sure I was on the right track. I have been crocheting for a while but am branching out to wearables and this is a great pattern to increase my skills!

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Julie @my_crochetmakes66 made size M/L in length G using Yarnsmiths Pebble Haze Aran Prints in Chesil

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Julie Bowry XL/2X G Yarnsmiths Pebble Haze Prints Aran in Sidmouth (shade 2M330)

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Camille @camdecab_abstractart made the 3X/4X in length H, she used 2,140 yards (5 cakes total) Caron Blossom Cakes in color Macaw.

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Amy @teachingmissamy used 6 1/2 skeins of the 4 Seasons Spotsaver Prints in Water Blue 10Ply from SPOTLIGHT in Australia,
Amy says;

Read-ability of the pattern was amazing. I absolutely loved the fact that you had so many clear photos of the pattern as I went along! Thank you for making my first wearable an easy make😍

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Barbara @crochetbybarbaragayle used Lion Brand Mandala Ombré yarn in the Felicity colorway to make size XL-2X in length D

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Dawn @shegeekpro used big twist to make size 3X/4X length D

Thanks again to my wonderful testers!

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Beach House Stripes Afghan | Free Pattern | Part II – Finishing Touches

I thought this day would never come. The last stripe done. The border in order. It took longer than I expected to get the look I wanted. But it’s finally finished. And, in my not-so-humble opinion, it’s a success!

Find Part I here.

I got the idea for doing a bean stitch border while working a stripe of bean stitch in another afghan. After the first 2 rows, I looked at it and thought, “Oh, that would make a great border.” I tried it on a swatch made from the yarn I was using at the time, and it came out great. So, all good, right?

1. Prepping for the border
2. Choosing the border color
3. Adjusting to the unfamiliar yarn: An adventure
4. The Pattern!

Prepping for the border

Because the yarn I used was a bamboo/cotton blend, I put the blanket in the dryer on low heat for 10 minutes, to pre-shrink before starting the border. Scary, right? But it came out fine. Some slight pilling, but it also did tighten up just a bit, which was good. And now I can tell my sister-in-law that it can be dried on low heat.

Choosing the border color

This part was more difficult than you might think. I tried 2 colors that were awful. I asked around (well, I asked on Facebook) and everyone basically said “Any color but those!” People liked the blues, and I had to agree they were best. So I went with navy. I made it 3/4 to the end of the first bean stitch round, and thought… “Well, maybe not.” Frogged all that. Tried a couple dozen beans in each of the other blue shades. Guess what? (How did you know?) I ended up liking the navy best. I think.

Then there’s the adventure of using an unfamiliar yarn.

Since the cotton/bamboo has no bounce-back, it’s trickier to get the tension right for the bean stitch. It took a lot of trial and error (for real — hundreds and hundreds of stitches frogged). But in the end, it came out well. I needed to tighten up the stitches of round 1, and make them closer together together than I normally would. And I had to find that sweet spot on the bean rows, with a hook size a bit small, while keeping the tension loose enough to avoid too much stress on the previous row, but still controlled. (See why I don’t recommend this yarn?)

Here’s a link to the pattern for the stripes, if you haven’t seen it yet. That page also includes a table with the abbreviations which I will use here. I’ve written these border instructions for use with the Beach House afghan. But they really could be used for any blanket if you just pretend no one said what kind of stitches you attached the first round to.

So let’s get to business… the pattern for the border!

Special stitch: Bean Stitch (Bean st)

Insert hook directly into stitch indicated, yo, pull up a loop;
[yo, insert hook in same stitch, gently pull up another loop] 3 times;
yo, draw through all 8 loops on hook, close with a chain.

Beginning Bean Stitch (Beg Bean)

Insert hook directly into stitch indicated, yo, pull up a loop;
[yo, insert hook in same stitch, gently pull up another loop hook] twice;
yo, draw through all 6 loops on the hook, close with chain.

If you’re using acrylic or wool in worsted/aran weight, you may prefer to use the smaller bean stitch (the one I’ve called “Beg Bean”) all the way across.

Here’s a great how-to video for bean stitch. Note that the beans I’ve written for here using have one more yo/pull through than the video shows.

Round 1: (WS) Join your lightest color to the top right corner w sl st;
*sc in each of next 6 sc2tog, work 2 scs in next sc2tog*;
repeat between *’s to next corner, [sc, ch1, sc] in corner st;
work evenly spaced scs down the side; [sc, ch1, sc] in next corner;
*sc in each of next 6 sc2tog, work 2 scs in next sc2tog*;
repeat between *’s to corner; [sc, ch1, sc] in corner;
work evenly spaced scs up the side; sc in last corner st;
ch1, join w sl st to first st of round, finish off.

A good rule of thumb for working down the sides is to work 1 sc for each sc2tog row, 2 scs in the side of each dc, 1 sc in the side of each sc and hdc. Err on the side of too many stitches, rather than too few.

Round 2: (WS) Join your border color w sl st in the ch sp of a corner (but not the one where round 1 was joined);
ch2, work Beg Bean in same ch sp, *sk next sc, Bean st in next sc*;
repeat between *’s to next corner;
☨work [Bean st, ch1, Bean st] into the corner ch sp;
repeat between *’s to next corner☨;
repeat between ☨’s to last corner;
work a Bean st in the corner ch sp, ch1; join w sl st in top of beg ch2, turn.

Round 3: (RS) ch2, work a Beg Bean into the ch sp just made
(between the first and last Bean st made in the previous row);
sk closing ch of next Bean st,
Bean into beg loop of Bean whose closing chain you skipped*,
repeat between *’s to next corner;
☨ [Bean st, ch1, Bean st] in corner ch sp;
repeat between *’s to next corner☨;
repeat between ☨’s to last corner;
work a Bean st in the corner ch sp, ch1;
join w sl st in top of beg ch2.

As a last step, I ran it through the 10 minute pre-shrink again. I think that actually made it look a tiny bit better. In any case, it’s ready to go. So what do you say folks? Anyone ready to come back from the beach, get dry, and snuggle up?

Crochet Howto: Spiked Puff Stitch Tutorial

A while back, while working out the stitches for my Sampler Squares Afghan I played around with some variations on a spiked puff stitch. My goal was to make something relatively simple, that you didn’t need to do a lot of stitch marking for.

I came up with a very simple one that didn’t require pulling through crazy numbers of loops, which I wrote in the pattern.

The key to finding the hook insertion points without using markers? Add an extra chain between a pair of stitches two rows below the puff stitch row. And then not work into that extra chain on the following row. The not-working-in part also makes a visible space, if you look carefully. Those spaces will be used later in the puff stitch row. That’s a lot to parse, so I’ve got a photo and a video, as well as pattern-style description to explain.

This video shows some variations I experimented with. The variation I did in blue is the first one I did in the video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4LyiyQkjAmA&t=30s

For my current project (shown in the featured photo), I’ve done another variation (not in the video) that I’m really happy with. Here’s a written description for each stitch

Small Spiked Puff Stitch

1. Insert hook in indicated st, yo, pull up a loop,
2. yo, insert hook in space under the st just worked into (between 2 hdcs),
3. yo, pull up a long loop, (4 on hook)
4. yo, insert hook in ch sp 2 rows below, pull up a longer loop (6 on hook),
5. yo, insert hook in sp just below next st (between 2 hdcs), pull up a long loop (8 on hook),
6. yo, insert hook in next hdc (the one directly after the hdc you started in), pull up a loop,
7. pull through all 10 loops on hook
8. close with a chain.

Wide Spiked Puff Stitch (WPS)

1. Insert hook in indicated st, yo, pull up a loop,
   yo, insert hook in space under the st just worked into (between 2 hdcs),
2. yo, pull up a long loop, (4 on hook),
3. yo, insert hook in chsp 2 rows below, pull up a longer loop (6 on hook),
4. yo, insert hook in st just below the chsp, pull up an even longer loop (8 on hook),
5. yo, insert in next st (just after the chsp) 2 rows below, pull up a loop (10 on hook),
6. yo, insert hook in next sp between hdcs 1 row below (missing 1 hdc), yo, pull up a loop (12),
7. yo, insert hook in next hdc, pull up a loop, pull through all 14 loops on hook,
8. close with a ch.

So the 4 pattern rows (for the Wide version) go like this

1. hdc in first 5 sts, ch 1, (do not skip a st), hdc in each of next 5 sts across.
2. hdc in first st and each hdc across (skipping the ch sps)
3. Join new color, ch1, sc in first 3 sts, work WPS over the next 3 sts, ch1, sc in each of next 2 sts; rep between *’s across, hdc in last st.
4. Change colors back, hdc in each of first 4 sts, hdc in closing ch of next WPS, hdc in 1st loop of WPS, rep between *’s 30 more times, hdc in each of last 4 hdcs.
   

The pattern for the more narrow version is the same, except that it’s only worked over 2 rows.

Finally, if you have a hard time pulling through that many loops, here are a few tips

Lots of Loops — You can do it! (Yes, you can)

Alright, the wave of motivation held out long enough to become hyperfixation, which held out long enough to get the chicken pattern up! 🧶

https://handmadeheartz.wordpress.com/2024/06/16/palm-sized-chicken-amigurumi-free-crochet-pattern/

#crochet #amigurumi #crochetpattern #freecrochetpattern

Alright, the wave of motivation held out long enough to become hyperfixation, which held out long enough to get the chicken pattern up! 🧶

https://handmadeheartz.wordpress.com/2024/06/16/palm-sized-chicken-amigurumi-free-crochet-pattern/

#crochet #amigurumi #crochetpattern #freecrochetpattern

Alright, the wave of motivation held out long enough to become hyperfixation, which held out long enough to get the chicken pattern up! 🧶

https://handmadeheartz.wordpress.com/2024/06/16/palm-sized-chicken-amigurumi-free-crochet-pattern/

#crochet #amigurumi #crochetpattern #freecrochetpattern

Alright, the wave of motivation held out long enough to become hyperfixation, which held out long enough to get the chicken pattern up! 🧶

https://handmadeheartz.wordpress.com/2024/06/16/palm-sized-chicken-amigurumi-free-crochet-pattern/

#crochet #amigurumi #crochetpattern #freecrochetpattern

I've uploaded the first #freecrochetpattern on my #wordpress site! It's a strawberry #amigurumi. Short and simple.

https://handmadeheartz.wordpress.com/2024/04/15/strawberry-amigurumi-free-crochet-pattern/

#crochet #crochetpattern

I've uploaded the first #freecrochetpattern on my #wordpress site! It's a strawberry #amigurumi. Short and simple.

https://handmadeheartz.wordpress.com/2024/04/15/strawberry-amigurumi-free-crochet-pattern/

#crochet #crochetpattern

I've uploaded the first #freecrochetpattern on my #wordpress site! It's a strawberry #amigurumi. Short and simple.

https://handmadeheartz.wordpress.com/2024/04/15/strawberry-amigurumi-free-crochet-pattern/

#crochet #crochetpattern

I've uploaded the first #freecrochetpattern on my #wordpress site! It's a strawberry #amigurumi. Short and simple.

https://handmadeheartz.wordpress.com/2024/04/15/strawberry-amigurumi-free-crochet-pattern/

#crochet #crochetpattern

Pattern Testing: I’m looking for more crocheters to test my patterns!

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NEW Pattern Drop!

Find it on Ribblr: https://ribblr.com/pattern/simple-collar-free-crochet-pattern-Crochet?referrer=100059

You can also find it on Ravelry and Ko-Fi. Search for mamasophs.

#newpattern #newpatternrelease #newpatterndrop #newpatterndesign #newcrochetpattern #crochetpattern #crochet #pattern #freepattern #freecrochetpattern #ribblr #ravelry #kofi #crochetartist #simplecrochetpattern #simplecrochetcollar #simplecollar #collar #crochetcollar #collarpattern #peterpancollar

NEW Pattern Drop!

Find it on Ribblr: https://ribblr.com/pattern/simple-collar-free-crochet-pattern-Crochet?referrer=100059

You can also find it on Ravelry and Ko-Fi. Search for mamasophs.

#newpattern #newpatternrelease #newpatterndrop #newpatterndesign #newcrochetpattern #crochetpattern #crochet #pattern #freepattern #freecrochetpattern #ribblr #ravelry #kofi #crochetartist #simplecrochetpattern #simplecrochetcollar #simplecollar #collar #crochetcollar #collarpattern #peterpancollar

NEW Pattern Drop!

Find it on Ribblr: https://ribblr.com/pattern/simple-collar-free-crochet-pattern-Crochet?referrer=100059

You can also find it on Ravelry and Ko-Fi. Search for mamasophs.

#newpattern #newpatternrelease #newpatterndrop #newpatterndesign #newcrochetpattern #crochetpattern #crochet #pattern #freepattern #freecrochetpattern #ribblr #ravelry #kofi #crochetartist #simplecrochetpattern #simplecrochetcollar #simplecollar #collar #crochetcollar #collarpattern #peterpancollar

NEW Pattern Drop!

Find it on Ribblr: https://ribblr.com/pattern/simple-collar-free-crochet-pattern-Crochet?referrer=100059

You can also find it on Ravelry and Ko-Fi. Search for mamasophs.

#newpattern #newpatternrelease #newpatterndrop #newpatterndesign #newcrochetpattern #crochetpattern #crochet #pattern #freepattern #freecrochetpattern #ribblr #ravelry #kofi #crochetartist #simplecrochetpattern #simplecrochetcollar #simplecollar #collar #crochetcollar #collarpattern #peterpancollar

Recent creation... Blueberry Bird

https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLuPz1whIP_i9yo5lRxiV1ri-M8i_yPTc7

Free Pattern and Tutorial Videos on my YT channel!

@Crochettoutdoux
#amigurumi
#amiguri
#FreePatterns
#freecrochetpattern
#yarnspirations

Recent creation... Blueberry Bird

https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLuPz1whIP_i9yo5lRxiV1ri-M8i_yPTc7

Free Pattern and Tutorial Videos on my YT channel!

@Crochettoutdoux
#amigurumi
#amiguri
#FreePatterns
#freecrochetpattern
#yarnspirations

Recent creation... Blueberry Bird

https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLuPz1whIP_i9yo5lRxiV1ri-M8i_yPTc7

Free Pattern and Tutorial Videos on my YT channel!

@Crochettoutdoux
#amigurumi
#amiguri
#FreePatterns
#freecrochetpattern
#yarnspirations

Recent creation... Blueberry Bird

https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLuPz1whIP_i9yo5lRxiV1ri-M8i_yPTc7

Free Pattern and Tutorial Videos on my YT channel!

@Crochettoutdoux
#amigurumi
#amiguri
#FreePatterns
#freecrochetpattern
#yarnspirations

Recent creation... Blueberry Bird

https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLuPz1whIP_i9yo5lRxiV1ri-M8i_yPTc7

Free Pattern and Tutorial Videos on my YT channel!

@Crochettoutdoux
#amigurumi
#amiguri
#FreePatterns
#freecrochetpattern
#yarnspirations

I am also sharing the actual first draft of this pattern!
#crochet #freecrochetpattern #crochetpattern #amigurumi #Caturday

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1FZ9_le_1qoJMZH9MNjl-bqHBS_CJmqZ16mg1oH-wDKs/edit?usp=sharing

I'm going to be updating it as I work on another cat or two throughout the month.
When it's good and done, I'll make sure anyone who found it during #AutismAcceptanceMonth gets the complete version, and in May it'll go up on my #kofi and #Ravelry stores for a bit of moneys.

Comments are on. You can ask questions for clarification or let me know if you changed a little something. Or you can just say hi. Whatevers. :3

Happy autism month.

I am also sharing the actual first draft of this pattern!
#crochet #freecrochetpattern #crochetpattern #amigurumi #Caturday

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1FZ9_le_1qoJMZH9MNjl-bqHBS_CJmqZ16mg1oH-wDKs/edit?usp=sharing

I'm going to be updating it as I work on another cat or two throughout the month.
When it's good and done, I'll make sure anyone who found it during #AutismAcceptanceMonth gets the complete version, and in May it'll go up on my #kofi and #Ravelry stores for a bit of moneys.

Comments are on. You can ask questions for clarification or let me know if you changed a little something. Or you can just say hi. Whatevers. :3

Happy autism month.

I am also sharing the actual first draft of this pattern!
#crochet #freecrochetpattern #crochetpattern #amigurumi #Caturday

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1FZ9_le_1qoJMZH9MNjl-bqHBS_CJmqZ16mg1oH-wDKs/edit?usp=sharing

I'm going to be updating it as I work on another cat or two throughout the month.
When it's good and done, I'll make sure anyone who found it during #AutismAcceptanceMonth gets the complete version, and in May it'll go up on my #kofi and #Ravelry stores for a bit of moneys.

Comments are on. You can ask questions for clarification or let me know if you changed a little something. Or you can just say hi. Whatevers. :3

Happy autism month.

I am also sharing the actual first draft of this pattern!
#crochet #freecrochetpattern #crochetpattern #amigurumi #Caturday

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1FZ9_le_1qoJMZH9MNjl-bqHBS_CJmqZ16mg1oH-wDKs/edit?usp=sharing

I'm going to be updating it as I work on another cat or two throughout the month.
When it's good and done, I'll make sure anyone who found it during #AutismAcceptanceMonth gets the complete version, and in May it'll go up on my #kofi and #Ravelry stores for a bit of moneys.

Comments are on. You can ask questions for clarification or let me know if you changed a little something. Or you can just say hi. Whatevers. :3

Happy autism month.