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#augustastays — Public Fediverse posts

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  1. Tuesday progress:
    My #augustastays are fully boned
    My 1790s corset from #thecutofwomensclothes is also boned, although that was six pieces
    Cut out linen swatches to make a little sampler for one of my online friends who's interested in buying linen clothing but has sensory issues

    Next on the list is redoing patterns for my mantua, my wrapping gown, and a pair of Elizabethan stays. And deciding whether I want to redo the binding on a different pair of stays.

    #sewing #HistoricalCostuming #patterns

  2. and I've finished the #AugustaStays! Except for the fact that I had misplaced 3 out of the 4 laces I had luceted, and could not try it.

    This morning I've found two of the laces, and there is still a bit of string in the place of the last lace that has been misplaced, so I will probably be able to try it on?

    I won't be able to take pictures for a while, it's still quite a busy time.

    #sewing #HistoricalSewing

  3. #sewing update

    the corded petticoat is done! And today I expect to finish the hem on the chemise (I'm almost halfway through it), so there will be some cutting fabric time this afternoon, and that may be either the lining for the #AugustaStays or the cartridge pleated skirt.

  4. #sewing update? sewing update!

    I suspect that the body of the shift is a bit too wide at the top, but I haven't tried it on yet to find out. It's only missing a hem at the bottom, and then it's done, however (and I'm sure I can adjust the width so that it is wearable anyway).

    I haven't done anything on it (nor on the #AugustaStays), however, because I've spent most of my sewing time on the corded petticoat, because *I want to know* whether it will work and how it will look.

    And I'm happy to report that I've just finished the next to last section of cording, only 3 more 3-metre-long seams and then I can finally start on the assembly.

  5. The second attempt at a custom pleating board worked just fine, I'm currently working on the sleeves of the shift.

    I still haven't cut the lining pieces for the #AugustaStays

    And I've made myself a new sashiko thimble, and patched the old one which was failing, because I'm using it on the market bag (and will need to use it for the next task in the “40s underwear” project)

    Not historically accurate, I know. But much faster, and gives exactly the same result.

  6. binding done!

    I should really cut the lining pieces now

    (instead I'm currently hemming the market bag)

    #sewing #AugustaStays

  7. the custom pleating board was in the wrong size. It results in pleats that aren't deep enough to manage all of the fullness.

    I could measure directly on the fabric, or I could use the second half of the poster paper sheet and make another one.

    On a more positive note: the vest is wearable (not done. I have ideas.), and one half of the top binding of the #AugustaStays is done, and I'm on the way to finish the other half!

    #sewing

  8. #sewing update

    the drawers have been finished. I haven't worn them yet.

    the binding on the bottom of the #AugustaStays is done, that on the top is almost all attached, and then I need to sew it to the back. I'm procrastinating the cutting of the lining.

    I've cut and started hemming the shoulder sack / marked bag. Wait, have I just started a new #handsewing project before finishing the ones in progress? Who does that kind of things (me. the answer is me. :D )

    this morning I finished the last machine seams on the denim vest and attached the buttons, I need to to the buttonholes and then it's wearable.

    the pieces for the shift have been cut, except for the fact that the side gores are still attached to the main body. I'm trying to figure out how I'm going to sew everything together (and that may change the exact size of the gores).

    And I've realized that I've probably done one of the seams of the drawers wrong¹: I can fix the instructions I'm writing, but then they won't have a picture of that step until I do another pair of drawers. it will have to be.

    ¹ as in: perfectly serviceable, but not the way the book I was following probably intended.

  9. all of the bottom edge of the stays have been half bound.

    I hope that sewing the tape from the back will be less fiddly than doing the first seam on the front (I hope), and then there is the top edge, which is significantly longer, but also much easier (I hope)

    #sewing #AugustaStays

  10. two tabs of the stays have been half bound (i.e. I've sewn the tape from the front, not yet from the back).

    tooManyToCount remaining

    #sewing #AugustaStays

  11. all panels have been joined together!

    hopefully this afternoon I'll attach the shoulder straps

    and then I have to decide whether I want to add seam tapes or not.

    #sewing #AugustaStays

  12. all panels boned, first fitting done, and now I'm turning the sewing allowances and I've started to attach two of the pieces.

    The instructions still have *a lot* of pages.

    #sewing #AugustaStays

  13. all eyelets have been done

    the small panels have also been boned, I still have to do the big front ones (and I've used about half of the boning called for by the pattern).

    #sewing #AugustaStays

  14. E ho finito le canaline per le stecche degli #AugustaStays che ho iniziato (ho controllato il vecchio post) a novembre 2022! E la spoletta di filo è bastata! (in realtà nel frattempo ne avevo presa un'altra, dato che penso di usarla anche in altre cuciture, per cui comunque avevo delle alternative).

    Dopo aver fatto la foto ho anche finito gli occhielli di un lato del centro dietro, e aggiunto le stecche ai due centro dietro e ai fianchi davanti (ma è tramontato il sole, niente foto fino a domani).

    Adesso devo solo finire il resto degli occhielli, e soprattutto cucire tutto quanto. :D

    Forse per gennaio 2025 ce la faccio :D se non mi distraggo con qualcos'altro.

    #cucito #cucitoStorico #cucitoAMano

  15. Aaaaaaand I've done all of the boning channels on the #AugustaStays I started in (checks for the old post) November 2022! And one spool of thread was enough! (I have another, luckily, as I plan to use the same thread for other seams, but for those I would also have had alternatives)

    And since I took the picture I've also finished the eyelets on one of the center back pieces, and added boning to both of those and to the side fronts (but the sun has set, so there will be no more pictures until tomorow).

    Now I only need to finish the rest of the eyelets, and most importantly to sew the whole thing :D

    Maybe in January 2025 it will be done :D If I don't get distracted.

  16. #sewingUpdate

    In the last few days I've finished the boning channels on the *first* panel of my #AugustaStays and started those on the second one.

    And then I've started making fabric covered buttons¹ and then buttonholes (handsewn, obviously) for the linen jacket I finished last summer, so that I will be able to wear it this autumn.

    I will never finish the stays, right?

    ¹ the kind sewn around a washer, not the ones done with a kit

    #HistoricalSewing

  17. I still have to finish other handsewn things, but I have the cutting mat on the table, and I decided I might as well start cutting the #AugustaStays, and then maybe later in the weekend I can make the buckram.



    Natural linen would have probably been better than white¹, but oh well, in 200 years they are going to be yellow too :D and they will be trimmed with powder blue cotton

    ¹ yes, it's white³, the blue tint is courtesy of the vintage effect² in the pinephone camera :D
    ² no, it can't be turned off :D
    ³ and now I must look for a UV light to find out whether it's merely bleached or it also has optical whiteners, but I don't know where it is

    @sewing #sewing #HistoricalSewing
  18. @tefferbear and people who has made 18th century #stays : I'm reading the instructions for the #AugustaStays and they say to layer the fabric, starting from the outside, as outer layer, heavyweight linen interlining, buckram, so that buckram is towards the body, with just the optional lining separating it from the shift.

    Do you have any idea why it isn't layered as outer layer, buckram, heavyweight lining?

    @sewing #HistoricalSewing