#eweninbhutan — Public Fediverse posts

Big. And Small. In Bhutan.

#EwenInBhutan #Photography #SquareMood #LumixS9 #Lumix #Bhutan #Himalayas #Bumthang

Sometimes we get a chance to step behind the scenes at a Tshechu. We're not supposed to. We're not inside a prayer hall, which are strictly off-limits to photography in Bhutan, but there's always a tension around temples about where you can or cannot take photos.

These are always some of my most treasured moments. Not just the feeling of "should we be here?" but there's always an intimacy to the story in such moments. You feel like the door is open to look at the humans beneath the masks.

And the light is nice :)

#EwenInBhutan #Photography #SquareMood #LumixS9 #Lumix #Bhutan #Himalayas #Bumthang #Tshechu

There was a moment when all the masks and skirts were donned, and the dancers had headed out to perform. One fellow stayed back inside, having assisted in the preparations and ensured the costumes were firmly in place.

He allowed himself a moment of pride.

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Masks await their turn to be brought back to life,

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A good chat is in order. Rinzi spent much of his childhood in this part of Bhutan, so he knows a few of the people who know a few people.

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Just a cheeky fella enjoying the last light of day at the end of a Tshechu :)

#EwenInBhutan #Photography #SquareMood #LumixS9 #Lumix #Bhutan #Himalayas #Bumthang #Tshechu

The people of Bhutan are very kind to allow us into their festivals. They embrace our presence, offer us tea and food, make space for us to get a closer look, and in general they get excited to share the experience. The festivals closer to Paro or Thimphu are easy to access, but can have a LOT of tourists at them.

As a photographer I prefer it when the only white folks around are ourselves!

#EwenInBhutan #Photography #SquareMood #LumixS9 #Lumix #Bhutan #Himalayas #Bumthang #Tshechu

The final cham of the day was about subduing the demons. Drums everywhere.

#EwenInBhutan #Photography #SquareMood #LumixS9 #Lumix #Bhutan #Himalayas #Bumthang #Tshechu #TTArtisan #40mm

Be warned, that is NOT coke she's slopping about in those bottles. The festive mood can be quite overpowering at these events.

#EwenInBhutan #Photography #SquareMood #LumixS9 #Lumix #Bhutan #Himalayas #Bumthang #Tshechu #TTArtisan #40mm

Last light of the day. The Tshechu is officially over and the locals swarm to make offerings to the temple, and receive blessings. I love this moment. It's like after a footy match when we'd run onto the ground and run amuck.

#EwenInBhutan #Photography #SquareMood #LumixS9 #Lumix #Bhutan #Himalayas #Bumthang #Tshechu #TTArtisan #40mm

If you look really carefully you'll see the wall creeper in the first shot :)

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The next treat is a Wall Creeper. These are one of my favie species in the Himalayas. I see them all over the place and often in unexpected locations. But whenever I visit a temple of any sort, I keep an eye out for them. I know there'll be at one that claims a temple for its own.

This fella was hanging around the stupa at Chendibji, which is a favie spot for me to visit on the way between Phobjikha and Trongsa.

This is when a longer lens would really really help, as they are such tiny birds. I've included a huge crop on the second photo so you can see some of the detail in the wings. They flit the wings out to startle bugs, not unlike a wagtail waving its plumage, but more of a sudden flick... and then wait to see if anything panicked!

#EwenInBhutan #Photography #SquareMood #LumixS1RII #Lumix #Bhutan #BirdPhotography #Chendibji #WallCreeper #Lumix100500mm #WildBhutan

Same bird, different shots. Couldn't decide which I liked best so am posting them all :) Maybe the last shot is my fave, bokeh plus bird.

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Here's a special treat for everyone today. Did you even know that this little bird existed? It's a Rufous-vented Tit and they love the higher elevations in Bhutan. They rumble through the lower shrubs in packs, munching on seeds and looking for anything more juicy that might be hiding amongst the foliage.

These guys happened to flitter close enough to me to get that 500mm into action. Had just finished dodging some yaks when they came along. I enjoy these unplanned encounters with nature so much. Such moments are a gift.

#EwenInBhutan #Photography #SquareMood #LumixS1RII #Lumix #Bhutan #BirdPhotography #Phobjikha #RufousVentedTit #Lumix100500mm #WildBhutan

#EwenInBhutan

Our last day in Bhutan today. Leaving all this behind for a little while. I have a bunch of posts that never got around to sharing. Will keep them coming through for another week or so.

I have mixed feelings about my time in the Himalayas this year. I see how things are changing. I see how I am changing. I am reminded of the idea that we can never step into the same river twice.

I wish it were otherwise.

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This little spot was a gem. We'd just spent an hour or so walking down the hill of a village, and then arrive at two rivers that meet in a flat spot in the valley. It's wide and open and there's the sound of rushing water in every direction. Total immersion into nature.

#EwenInBhutan #Photography #SquareMood #LumixS9 #Lumix #Bhutan #Himalayas #Bumthang #Tshechu #TTArtisan #40mm

We don't stop for every stand of prayer flags. I think about it, but we don't do that. It's more special when the moment just happens and suddenly we're all piling into a forest of flags, flapping at our ears as we look for something to compose amongst the chaos.

I can't explain what triggers these moments, I just now it when it happens.

#EwenInBhutan #Photography #SquareMood #LumixS9 #Lumix #Bhutan #Himalayas #TTArtisan #40mm #Prayerflags

Today we got out for a little birding with our driver. He's super into birds now and loves sharing the local species. Saw a bunch of stuff, but in terms of photos, this proud little Hodgson's Redstart stole the day. Just a charmer, and came close enough for the 500mm to get some action.

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Crane story in three acts.

Have had very few opportunities to get close to the cranes with my telephoto lens in Bhutan this trip, but they have totally been worth it.

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#EwenInBhutan

Taking a break from the Tshechu posting to share a moment of ICM related fun in a nunnery lamp-room :)

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Just another day in Bhutan.

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This masked dancer caused a real laugh, by nestling into the lap of some ladies who were trying to enjoy a cup of tea.

#EwenInBhutan #Photography #SquareMood #LumixS9 #Lumix #Bhutan #Himalayas #Bumthang #Tshechu #TTArtisan #40mm

This was a bit of a moment. One of the cool things about a Tshechu in Bhutan is when the story of the performance spills into the crowd. Sometimes it's monks with drums running into the crowd and suddenly beating away the evil demons – and beating the locals with a drum too! Sometimes it's the pantomime side show of jokers and actors who step into the crowd and take the mickey out of someone.

#EwenInBhutan #Photography #SquareMood #LumixS9 #Lumix #Bhutan #Himalayas #Bumthang #Tshechu #TTArtisan #40mm

We met these girls earlier in the day and had a special photo shoot with them. I got a chance to send them a bunch of pics the next day. It's quite lovely to be here and make folks feel special just by taking their photo. I really love that.

#EwenInBhutan #Photography #SquareMood #LumixS9 #Lumix #Bhutan #Himalayas #Bumthang #Tshechu #TTArtisan #40mm

A few more scenes from the second festival we attended. Such an intimate expression of Bhutanese culture, being in a small village that bursts at the seems with pride over their annual Tshechu.

#EwenInBhutan #Photography #SquareMood #LumixS9 #Lumix #Bhutan #Himalayas #Bumthang #Tshechu #TTArtisan #40mm

Not all the chams are performed by monks. A local community group provides extra talent and experience to complement the small number of monks at this temple. They are very skilled, and very fit!

#EwenInBhutan #Photography #SquareMood #LumixS9 #Lumix #Bhutan #Himalayas #Bumthang #Tshechu #40mm

Just a small village here for the third day of festivals. Modest from the outside, but a riot of joy and colour on the inside.

#EwenInBhutan #Photography #SquareMood #LumixS9 #Lumix #Bhutan #Himalayas #Bumthang #Tshechu #40mm

This festival used to be off the beaten track, but is increasingly popular with travellers since road access was upgraded. Regardless, we only had a few other tourists present in the morning then had the show to ourselves (and the locals) for the afternoon.

#EwenInBhutan #Photography #SquareMood #LumixS9 #Lumix #Bhutan #Himalayas #Bumthang #Tshechu #40mm

Afternoon light shines on the festival. Chams are sacred dances performed for the benefit of the community, to ward away evil and invite good fortune. They also provide beautiful moments for photographers :)

#EwenInBhutan #Photography #SquareMood #LumixS9 #Lumix #Bhutan #Himalayas #Bumthang #Tshechu #40mm

What's hot in Bhutan this week :)

#EwenInBhutan #Photography #SquareMood #LumixS9 #Lumix #Bhutan #Himalayas #Bumthang #Tshechu #18mm

Most of my time at festivals we're focused on the monks doing their sacred dances, but when I settle into things and just observe the locals doing their thing, I find immense inspiration. There's a beauty in such moments that I could never engineer myself. My only real skill with photography is being patient enough to notice what's going on around me.

This image will be one of my favourites from this trip. To me, this is modern Bhutan, Not having left their traditions behind, but unable to keep out the influence of the world beyond it's borders.

#EwenInBhutan #Photography #SquareMood #LumixS9 #Lumix #Bhutan #Himalayas #Bumthang #Tshechu #TTArtisan #40mm

We've just finished day 3 of the festivals, but I'm still only up to Day 1 of editing. Oooops! My phone is full of WhatsApp messages from local asking for a copy of the photo I took. Might be up late tonight.

#EwenInBhutan #Photography #SquareMood #LumixS9 #Lumix #Bhutan #Himalayas #Bumthang #Tshechu #TTArtisan #40mm

This particular festival is heavy on community support. The temple itself hasn't got a lot of monks, and they rely on community members to perform most of the chams, in addition to the usual chorus of singing and plays in between chams.

#EwenInBhutan #Photography #SquareMood #LumixS9 #Lumix #Bhutan #Himalayas #Bumthang #Tshechu #TTArtisan #40mm

The hit rate with modern cameras and lenses today is just amazing. I remember what it was like shooting with a DSLR at these events, and you really had to work hard only to miss half of your favourite moments anyway.

This image was taken with my macro lens! It's a 100mm F2.8 but has dual AF motors, one for up close and a second for distance. So it works really well in these scenarios. At least on the little S9 it does.

#EwenInBhutan #Photography #SquareMood #LumixS9 #Lumix #Bhutan #Himalayas #Bumthang #Tshechu #100mmMacro

The monks practice for months in advance of the festival. They want the execution to be perfect, and bring good fortunes to their land.

#EwenInBhutan #Photography #SquareMood #LumixS9 #Lumix #Bhutan #Himalayas #Bumthang #Tshechu #TTArtisan #40mm

It's easy to focus too much on the monks and the dancing. In reality there is a depth of stories taking place all over the festivals. From families, to boiling tea, to the detail in the custumes. And of course, the beautiful valley itself where the festival is taking place.

#EwenInBhutan #Photography #SquareMood #LumixS9 #Lumix #Bhutan #Himalayas #Bumthang #Tshechu #40mm

Starting a new thread today for my Bhutan travels, because "Tsechu" :)

Most reasonable sized temples and dzongs in Bhutan have one big festival each year, where the monks dance and invite good fortune for their village. This year we're in Bumthang, and attending a few familiar festivals.

The monks dress as demons and deities, and perform sacred dances (cham). Festivals are a genuine challenge for any photographer to capture. So much going on, tricky light, and an overload of stimulation.

I love it!

#EwenInBhutan #Photography #SquareMood #LumixS9 #Lumix #Bhutan #Himalayas #Bumthang #Tshechu #40mm

We make plans around the big things. A country. A temple. A festival. But the moments that stick are the little ones, like a butterfly on a marigold in winter.

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Never the same statue twice

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A few scenes from Dordenma, one of the most impressive Buddha statues you'll ever see.

#EwenInBhutan #Photography #SquareMood #LumixS9 #Lumix #Bhutan #TTArtisan #40mm #Himalayas #Dordenma

On this trip I have three lenses doing most of the work. My 100mm F2.8 Macro will come out from time to time, mostly for butterflies! But sometimes it's handy for a tight shot of the landscape as well.

My other two lenses are 18mm F1.8 and 40mm F2. I have an extra camera with the birding lens, that sits on the bus most of the time and gets ignored :)

#EwenInBhutan #Photography #SquareMood #LumixS9 #Lumix #Bhutan #Himalayas #100mm #LumixS100Macro