#iankirk — Public Fediverse posts
Live and recent posts from across the Fediverse tagged #iankirk, aggregated by home.social.
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Spent ages making a jig to glue the base and ends to the sides and now I don't think I need it.
I've returned to the sides - where they are glued together leaves a glue mark and there should be a piece of plastic to cover that. What I'm learning is that the kit doesn't contain all the parts so you have to improvise.
Here's 5 lengths of 0.8mmx1mm printed on the printer ready to cut and glue.
Next is probably the hardest bit for me - painting it teak
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Spent ages making a jig to glue the base and ends to the sides and now I don't think I need it.
I've returned to the sides - where they are glued together leaves a glue mark and there should be a piece of plastic to cover that. What I'm learning is that the kit doesn't contain all the parts so you have to improvise.
Here's 5 lengths of 0.8mmx1mm printed on the printer ready to cut and glue.
Next is probably the hardest bit for me - painting it teak
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I tested whether the Kirk kit would stick to the jig accidentally by using an off-cut sprue and it didn't so that's good.
Both sides carefully sanded with wet and dry and glued with Slaters MEK-PAK now - next is to cut the plasticard to length and glue it to the back when the glue has set to give it some rigidity.
Then I guess I need to paint it teak. That'll be a challenge for me....
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I tested whether the Kirk kit would stick to the jig accidentally by using an off-cut sprue and it didn't so that's good.
Both sides carefully sanded with wet and dry and glued with Slaters MEK-PAK now - next is to cut the plasticard to length and glue it to the back when the glue has set to give it some rigidity.
Then I guess I need to paint it teak. That'll be a challenge for me....
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Here's the Ian Kirk parts against the Isinglass drawing to make sure I've got it right.
Then cut the parts away from the sprues - the sprues have other parts attached that are probably vital so I'll keep them.
Then put the plasticard stiffener in the jig.
The the parts get laid into the jig glue them together - well the next step is to make sure that if I run glue in between the parts, they don't all get glued to the jig so I'll test that first.
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Here's the Ian Kirk parts against the Isinglass drawing to make sure I've got it right.
Then cut the parts away from the sprues - the sprues have other parts attached that are probably vital so I'll keep them.
Then put the plasticard stiffener in the jig.
The the parts get laid into the jig glue them together - well the next step is to make sure that if I run glue in between the parts, they don't all get glued to the jig so I'll test that first.
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New one printed with five connectors - much more sturdy. It has occurred to me that the glue I'm going to use might stick to the PLA jig and maybe that's why people normally make them out of wood. Current plan is to cut a 600mm strip of paper to lay on the jig in case the glue keeps through and at least then the coach sides won't stick to the jig.
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New one printed with five connectors - much more sturdy. It has occurred to me that the glue I'm going to use might stick to the PLA jig and maybe that's why people normally make them out of wood. Current plan is to cut a 600mm strip of paper to lay on the jig in case the glue keeps through and at least then the coach sides won't stick to the jig.
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First draft print - reasonably successful but not quite there yet. Printed in three parts so it'll fit on my printer.
I only put two connectors on so it's a bit wobbly at the joins.
Also, I prefer having an end stop at each end so I'm printing a 600mm one with more connectors and end stops.
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First draft print - reasonably successful but not quite there yet. Printed in three parts so it'll fit on my printer.
I only put two connectors on so it's a bit wobbly at the joins.
Also, I prefer having an end stop at each end so I'm printing a 600mm one with more connectors and end stops.
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OK - sample jig made and I'm pretty pleased with it. The plasticard fits snugly in the recess and there is a 1.5mm ledge at the bottom of the carriage sides for the floor to fit neatly into. Printing a 600MM version overnight now.
Four of these brown bits of carriage sides need to be glued together precisely for each side which is why I've made the jig.
I will share this jig for others to print to help them once I am happy with it.
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OK - sample jig made and I'm pretty pleased with it. The plasticard fits snugly in the recess and there is a 1.5mm ledge at the bottom of the carriage sides for the floor to fit neatly into. Printing a 600MM version overnight now.
Four of these brown bits of carriage sides need to be glued together precisely for each side which is why I've made the jig.
I will share this jig for others to print to help them once I am happy with it.
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I've started a couple of prep things.
1. I need a piece of plasticard which will y get glued to the coach side parts to give it strength. There's a piece in the kit which splits into two by hand - one is 13.5mm wide and one 14.5mm wide but I reckon we'll be ok as long as they fit into the jig - we'll see.
2. Books ordered.
2.1 LNER Carriages - Michael Harris
2.2 Chris Bishop Monographs from the LNER society -
I've started a couple of prep things.
1. I need a piece of plasticard which will y get glued to the coach side parts to give it strength. There's a piece in the kit which splits into two by hand - one is 13.5mm wide and one 14.5mm wide but I reckon we'll be ok as long as they fit into the jig - we'll see.
2. Books ordered.
2.1 LNER Carriages - Michael Harris
2.2 Chris Bishop Monographs from the LNER society -
I thought I'd combine my nerd-love of 3d Printing with building a jig.
Design complete in Tinkercad for the jig - test ones will look like this; one only has support at one side - I'll print them both and see how it goes and adjust if necessary.
Inspiration taken from here:
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I thought I'd combine my nerd-love of 3d Printing with building a jig.
Design complete in Tinkercad for the jig - test ones will look like this; one only has support at one side - I'll print them both and see how it goes and adjust if necessary.
Inspiration taken from here:
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OK - Isinglass drawing ordered. Now I need to make a jig.
I also contacted Ian Kirk about another thing and he replied straight away - nice bloke.
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OK - Isinglass drawing ordered. Now I need to make a jig.
I also contacted Ian Kirk about another thing and he replied straight away - nice bloke.
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OK - been through my Dad's kits and I have the following Ian Kirk 7mm Kits:
7206B LNER 61'6" Buffet Car
3 x 7208 LNER 61'6" Gresley Open Third
7206 LNER 61'6" Buffet Car
LNER Quint Art set which I believe to be complete
Sparmac 61'6" Full BrakeI guess as there's 3 of the Open Thirds, I'll start with them.
I know I need to make a jig to make sure everything's level - off to do some more research.
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OK - been through my Dad's kits and I have the following Ian Kirk 7mm Kits:
7206B LNER 61'6" Buffet Car
3 x 7208 LNER 61'6" Gresley Open Third
7206 LNER 61'6" Buffet Car
LNER Quint Art set which I believe to be complete
Sparmac 61'6" Full BrakeI guess as there's 3 of the Open Thirds, I'll start with them.
I know I need to make a jig to make sure everything's level - off to do some more research.